Where to install LC-1?

[ringram]

Maybe, you need to connect all wires either to ground or signal ground depending on what they are.
I had my NB Signal and signal grounds around the wrong way initially causing my problem.

[Garry]

I think I already double-checked that I didn't reverse ground and signal on the NB output ... I guess I could link the signal grounds (LC-1 green and white) - recon I don't want to link the heater ground to that, though ... still wonder why I keep reading the .447-.453V on the NB input - even if the reference voltage were off, I should get more variation ... wonder what I'd read if the ground line was disconnected ... I might try and measure to see whether I have a good connection to begin with ...

[Garry]

OK ... just came back from some tests ...

- the line from LC1 to the PCM was fine, both leads connected, polarity OK
- hooked up LC1 green and white to each other
- testrun ...

Well, with both data grounds connected, the data looks A LOT better ... noticed just from starting the car that the motor was running a lot smoother ... checking the logged data just now confirmed it ...

Can someone take a look - I have not yet (again) checked the NB output parameters of the LC1, will do in a minute - at least now, both banks seem to follow the same trend, I recon the higher precision of the WB might cause the deviation from the regular NBO2 ... I figure the variations in the WBO2 AFR is where I go ahead to actually do the tuning now

Edit: the NB-output was configured exactly like that, the WB was slightly differend (used the values from the EFILive HowTo LC1 Install) ...

[joecar]

Do you have the following "ground/return/low" connections:

WB: either green or white going to FlashScan orange connector pin D...?

NB: either green or white going to NBO2 pin A...?

these are not really "grounds", but rather they are "returns"
(technically, they are the 2nd half of a "differential pair").

[joecar]

HO2S21 (bank 2 sensor 1, this is where you have the LC-1, right...?) seems to be following the trend, but you still have a difference in LTFT's of about 5%; did you have this difference before installing the LC-1 (i.e. with your actual NBO2 sensor)...?

You running quite lean, you should perhaps add 20% or 25% to your VE table.

[Garry]

WB white going to EFI Pin D, NB green going to PCM A, and (now) both connected to each other ...

Yes S21 ...

Before I replaced the NB with the WB, bank2 was all over the place ... (check the file I attached on the other thread, "which PIDs to scan" ...) Will see what the LTFTs do once I actually get to drive the car a bit ... on the way back to the garage, I scanned some more ... first didn't have the WB connected to the EFILive, NB output stayed around .1V ... !? Connected it and ran some more, after a couple of seconds it finally read ... could it be the NB output only works correct when there is some kind of load on the second output?

[Garry]

well, with the WB hopefully working fine now, I recon I'm ready to get to work - what's next, just take the AutoVE tutorial und follow it?

[ringram]

Yep, pretty much. Go open loop, disable trims and maf etc as per autove.
Then have lots of fun tuning your ve.

[joecar]

Yes, let us know how you go.

[Garry]

I'll try to get around to it this weekend ...