Thank you. I i will try it tonight when I get home. Timing tables are only the same for tuning purposes. I currently do have the maf signal wire unpinned from the connector. Are the stft still enabled? I thought I had tuned them out. The passenger o2 was siezed in the exhaust and I ordered a new pair. For now I have the old drivers side installed and the passenger side is blocked. I'm in North Dakota so I'm not sure about running a cooler tstat lol. Especially with snow in the forecast for next week. I had ngk tr55s in. After so many failed and almost starts they were covered in carbon so I ordered the stock replacements from autozone. I'll look at the rest when I get home and I'll report back.
2011 Cadillac Escalade ESV. BTR 218/224 .553/.553 110LSA. Built 6L80 with 278mm Circle D 2800 stall converter.
Timing table - Ok, good. But still take care of that adder. I'd just zero it all out. You'll probably need to remove some timing in peak TQ/high load/low RPM area. Factory sets it too high.
STFT are shut off. Yes. I didn't know if you meant to do that or not.
The T-stat will regulate your temps. You want it open sooner. Do a 180 at least and turn on the fan sooner. I drive to Tahoe/Truckee in the winter in the snow. I keep my temps at 155-160 with zero issues. I've done the cold thing before, LOL. You can offset the temps in the ECT Temps Timing table for some more power. That's how I do it. Works great.
I'd go to TR6's if you can. Stock are iridium. I'd stay away from those.
They are fouled due to your VVE not setup properly.
You can fail the MAF in the ECU without unplugging it. Also, you'll want to change B8024/25 to max for Speed Density. Then fail the MAF in the parameters (same way you do in Gen 3). Then you have to set the DCT P0101/3 to A: 1 Trip.