LC-1 Tutorial

[GMPX]

Hi All,

O.K, so it seems the scan section is getting filled up with LC-1 posts.
To help everyone out in setting up the LC-1 EFILive is offering a free license to anyone that can contribute to writing a tutorial on how this is done.
The tutorial should include the following.
1 - Wiring the LC1 into the vehicle (the innovate manual should cover most of that).
2 - Setting up the LC1 analog output from the PC to a 'known' stardard everyone is using.
3 - Wiring the LC1 to the Flashscan interface.
4 - Selecting the correct PID's to log the LC-1.
5 - Adjusting the calc PID's to suit the LC-1 if needed.

That about covers it.
We suggest it be done in a Word doc and we will convert it to PDF once done with all contributors names in the credits.
We won't decide who deserves a license and who does not, if there is to be a LC1 group leader (hint, hint) they can decide who is deserving.

Thanks,
Ross

[SSpdDmon]

I did this in the sticky a while back. It could be a start for someone...


Ok, here's how I did it so everyone can have a common point of knowledge....

I started out wanting to do this by replacing the stock B1S1 narrow band O2 without having the PCM freak out on me. The answer came to me while working on a friend's car. His O2 was acting up and he decided to replace it. So, we took his old O2 and chopped the connector and wires off of the end of the sensor. This provided us with a connection to a 12v source, a heater ground, the analog 1 output, and analog ground. You'll need quite a bit of spare wire to get back into the car (about 30ft to make four 6~7 foot extensions). I chose to use a slightly thicker guage wire because I didn't want to loose voltage from one end to the other. If you choose to do it this way AND you have the new 7-wire LC-1, here's what you need to do.

1. Make sure you're working on a cool car to avoid serious burns. Catalytic converters and transmissions especially hold heat for some time after you turn the car off. Remove your stock NBO2 from your car.

2. Connect four 6~7 foot strands of wire to the spare O2 connector. If you don't have a spare, you can buy an O2 extension and chop the male end off.

3. Create a "Y" on the end of the analog ground that is attached to the LC-1 with about 6 inches of wire. One end will go to the spare connector and the other to your Flashscan pin-out.

4. On the end of the connector (from step 2), the wires are labeled A, B, C, and D. If yours isn't labeled or its worn down, check the one you removed in step 1. Wire "A" (TAN) is connected to one of the analog grounds from step 3. Wire "B" (PURPLE) is connected to the analog 1 output. Wire "C" (BROWN) is your switched 12v source. Wire "D" (BROWN) is your heater ground. Make the appropriate connections to the LC-1.

http://www.efilive.com/forum/files/flashscan_pinouts.gif

5. Connect the analog 2 output to either the C or E location on the pin-out. **Make sure you take note which one you connect it to so you can log it later on.**

6. Connect the system ground and the the other end of the "y" created for the analog ground in step 3 to the D location on the pin-out.

7. Plug the spare connector into the female end under the car.

8. **First time use** With the WBO2 still disconnected from the LC-1 interface, turn the ignition to run (do not start motor) for 10~15 seconds and then shut it off.

9. Connect the wide band sensor to the interface. Make sure the sensor is exposed to air (not in exhaust). Turn the ignition to run again, this time for 2 minutes and then turn it off.

10. Install the wide band into the stock location of the exhaust.

11. Connect the DB9/stereo cable to your laptop and the serial out connection from the LC-1. Connect the terminator plug to the serial in connection from the LC-1.

12. Open the LC-1 programming software. Select the analog 2 tab at the top. Select "use air-fuel-ratio." Type 0.5v=10AFR and 4.5v=18AFR in the boxes provided. Click program.

Congrats. You're now ready to log. Choose the Tech Edge PID, Ext.AD1 or Ext.AD2 (depending on whether you used pin-out C or E), and GM.AFR in the scan tool & go have fun! :)

**Edit** I still haven't figured out what to do to get the simulated NB signal to "switch." When hooked to the car in closed loop, it is reporting .440~.460mv consistently. Unfortunately, this is not a true simulation of our sensors. Until someone figures out how to fix this, THE ABOVE SETUP WILL ONLY WORK IN OPEN LOOP OPERATION. If someone figures out how to fix this, please let me know so that I can update this walk-thru. Thanks!

[Z16DNA]

I'll volunteer to work on the team. I have the LC-1 up and running on my '04 Corvette for approx. 4 months now. Yes, it was not fun to get it working. Of course I'd gladly share what I've learned. Many, many others have shared with me in the past......

Kevin

[Chris81]

The tutorial is a great idea..

It would be awesome if someone could show how to hook up the LC1:

Using narrow band
Using another bung
Using a gauge

I still haven't gotten mine working, but I"ll try again in a couple of days. :D

[SS2win]

I took SSpdDmon's sticky and HTMLized it. If I ever get to stop working I will try to merge it, my experience and the inovate docs.. just a matter of time

[Tordne]

To help everyone out in setting up the LC-1 EFILive is offering a free license to anyone that can contribute to writing a tutorial on how this is done.

Just send the license to Black02SS, he wins all these anyway :D

[SSpdDmon]

To help everyone out in setting up the LC-1 EFILive is offering a free license to anyone that can contribute to writing a tutorial on how this is done.

I totally missed that part...haha. :lol:

[Black02SS]

To help everyone out in setting up the LC-1 EFILive is offering a free license to anyone that can contribute to writing a tutorial on how this is done.

Just send the license to Black02SS, he wins all these anyway :D

:lol: I'll stay out of this one I promise. I would get with TA Quickness, I helped him wire up his LC1 and it is going great now.

[wait4me]

LOL that is funny. Everyone always picks on the winner....

[BowlingSS]

I do not need anymore licenses(have 5 opens) but I will start working on a tutorial. I have had mine working for a few months.

Bill

[SSpdDmon]

I do not need anymore licenses(have 5 opens) but I will start working on a tutorial. I have had mine working for a few months.

Bill

I take it if you don't want it. :)

[ws6togo]

What is the latest on this tutorial for everyone on how to install the LC-1??

[Garry]

I'm (hopefully) installing it this weekend in my WU6 ... guess I'll take pictures of the install ...

[joecar]

What is the latest on this tutorial for everyone on how to install the LC-1??There are various ways to go...

http://www.efilive.com/download.aspx#downloads7
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=564 post 6+
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=20

I suggest first bench testing your LC-1 (program it to output some voltage and check it using a DMM and/or FlashScan/EFILive) before installing it on vehicle.

[ws6togo]

thanks for the update

[Beer99C5]

Man I have had nothing but headaches with mine...

First one installed worked on the dyno, but when I drove home with it, about 5-10 minute of road driving it would go to 30-50 AFR. Recalibrated and did some Voltage readings with Dean on the phone from DynoTune and they said to return it.

Sent it back for a replacement.

Replacement was scanned as delievered to my house but I never received it...

Order another one at my expense (can't argue with confirmation delivery...oh ya, I have a new mailman now...).

Install it again yesterday... follow the instructions, shows 14 +- I am happy, but then letting it run, it goes to 49 AFR and I get an error 8...

On the up side, it does see it in EFI live...

:nixweiss:

Gonna make the heat sink I guess. And I cannot connect to the LC-1 with the laptop...I have a USB serial adapter set up as Comm 1 (anyone know the correct com port settings to communicate baud rate parity etc...)


Oh here are the pics if you need them for the tutorial (or maybe someone can spot something obviously wrong)???

1999 Corvette factory exhaust
http://www.retrorelics.net/jim/Boards/Corvette/LC1a.JPG

http://www.retrorelics.net/jim/Boards/Corvette/LC1c.JPG

http://www.retrorelics.net/jim/Boards/Corvette/LC1f.JPG

[TAQuickness]

Beer - I had 3 kinds of hell with mine until I got the grounds straight. Make sure all unused wiring is capped off and not shorted with any other wiring.

My original config had the LC1's drawing power from the BxS2 NB harnesess. Current config has a dedicated 12+ to the battery utilizing a relay controled by the BxS2 for the on off switching. Ground is chassis ground, but in your case, I'd go straight back to the battery.