splicing wires for wb02

[mtnman]

I'm now to the point of the wb02 sensor hookup. Which wires get spliced?
I know its the NB02 + sensor input and the NB02 - sensor input, but which wires are which via color? There are 2 black wires and a blue and white wire on the NB02. Which wires go to which on the WB02? Do I just cut into the sheathing of the WB02 harness?

[mtnman]

Anyone? Anyone? Surely someone has done this. The Widband 02 Install Tutorial PDF illustrates this setup, although the drawing doesnt indicate wire color with wire function. I know joecar is using the stock bung from his posts.

Am I misunderstanding this? Do I even have to mess with the NB02 wires? Do I just have to hose clamp the NB02 to the exhaust pipe (still plugged in) while I'm using the WB02 in the NB02 bung location? From the posts, it doesnt seem that anyone has been specific on this part of the LC-1 hookup, most posts are in reference to the wires connecting to the flashScan module.

[kbracing96]

If I remember correctly the wires on the narrow band, the 2 black wires will be the grounds, the white wire will be power and the blue will be the signal back to the PCM which is the most important one you need to hook up. It will connect to your simulated NB output from your WB controller. Hope that helps,

Kyle

[joecar]

You can't rely on the colors of the wires on the NB02 pigtail (my left and right NBO2 sensors have different color wires).

You need a wiring diagram for your vehicle (shows the NBO2 connector pins A, B, C, D with their colors and their signal names);
make a chart showing the following (include the color of each on the vehicle harness for your vehicle):

A = TAN = NBO2 signal low/ground = LC-1 green
B = PPL = NBO2 signal = LC-1 yellow
C = BLK = Heater ground = LC-1 blue
D = PNK = Heater power = LC-1 red

Double check your chart. Double check your chart.

Unplug NBO2 sensor from vehicle harness and from exhaust; put in ziplock bag and store (don't cut it up unless it's worn out).

Cut off a connector with 8" of pigail from a worn out NBO2 connector or a header O2 extension cable;
stagger the cuts (you'll see why soon...); plug it into the NBO2 connector on vehicle harness.

Slide heat shrink tube (Waytek Wire) on each of the 4 pigtail wires;
strip about 1/2" to 3/4" from each wire (wire stripper from Radio Shack).

Leaving about 12" (more or less, eyeball how much you need), cut off red, blue, green, yellow wires from the LC-1 cable,
staggering the cuts, paying attention to match the same staggered cuts on the NBO2 connector pigtail wires (pins A, B, C, D);
strip 1/2" to 3/4" off each.
Edit: You have to first remove the outer sheath on the LC-1 cable.

Paying close attention to which pin is A, B, C, D, you temporarily twist/splice each pigtail wire to the corresponding LC-1 wire;
double check your connections to your chart and to your wiring diagram.

Unplug the O2 connector, take the "LC-1 plus thing" to your kitchen table, twist splices properly (parallel twist, not perpendicular twist)
take a 6 foot length of green wire (16 or 18 gauge), strip both ends, and twist one end in to the O2 signal ground splice (pin A).

Solder all splices using rosin core solder (Radio Shack) and 25W solder iron (Radio Shack);
don't overheat, but make sure solder flows into twisted wires.

Position heat shrink tube over solder (overlap 1" each side) and use Mrs's hair dryer to shrink.

Double check again.

If you didn't stagger the cuts, then the splice area will be thick and big;
cut some slit corrugated tube 1/4" (if staggered) or 1/2" (if unstaggered) and slide on (AutoZone, PepBoys, Waytek Wire).
Edit: The 6 foot green wire will poke out thru the slit or the thru the end .

This takes care of: Heater Power, Heater Ground, NBO2 Signal, Analog Ground (goes to 2 places).

Plug WBO2 into LC-1;
plug LC-1 into NBO2 connector on vehicle harness;
route the 6 foot green wire (Analog Ground), and the and brown wire (WBO2 Output) to FlashScan module;

turn on iginition, and calibrate LC-1 (part 1); see user manual;
turn off ignition;
screw in WBO2 sensor into exhaust pipe bung (use anti seize on thread), make it just snug so it doesn't leak (do not overtighten);
turn on ignition and calibrate LC-1 (part 2).

Tie LC-1 and wiring to underside of car using zipties (be creative) routing away from ezhaust.

Can temporarily leave the black and white wires and the serial wires coiled up and ziptied underneath car,
but later you should route into car for in car calibration or cut off short (and reattach "stereo connectors") for under car calibration.

I looked on my CD and could not find your vehicle... What letter body is it...?

[mtnman]

joecar,

The body is "3". The wires going to the NB02 are 2 blacks a white and a blue, as kbracing96 mentioned, although, I don't know which wires go to which input. Can't I just splice the 2 wires (once I figure out which ones) from the NB02, connect those 2 wires to their respective WB02 wire and be ready to scan? I'm getting a bit lost with all this mention of purchasing extra wire (header 02 extention wire) and staggering the splices.

[leres]

I have details on how I wired my wideband on this page (http://www.xse.com/leres/ss/wideband.html). My harness goes through the PCM wiring hole in the firewall. One connector goes to the wideband sensor and the other to the narrow band PCM Metri-Pack connector. I've had this setup in place for a couple of months now.

[joecar]

LC-1 WB output goes to flashscan (this is the "5th" wire).
LC-1 NB output goes to NBO2 connector on vechicle harness.

Is this what you mean...?

On the NB02 connector, you have to figure out which wire is which otherwise you may munge up your LC-1.

Craig may have some pics on his site (my firewall blocks his pics and I'm not sure how...).

You require a wire diagram.

My car is a F-body, 4th letter of vin (2G2FV....);
Yours is a 3-body, I assumed GM used only letters...?
What is your vin (you can leave out the last 5 digits if you like)...?

The staggered cuts are so that when you solder and heat shrink everything together it does not make one great big clod; by staggerring the cuts you can spread out the splices along the length of the whole thing (becomes easier to tuck into slit tubing and to tuck neatly under car).

[leres]

My server doesn't allow hot-linking; if your firewall does not provide normal "referer" info you won't load any images.

If you're using the Symantec firewall, here's here's a page that details how to enable referers for a specific website (e.g. www.xse.com):
http://service1.symantec.com/SUPPORT/nip.nsf/docid/2002110811290836

[joecar]

I have:
Linksys BEFSR41
Windows Firewall
Norton Internet Security
Microsoft Antispyware

:lol: ...a bit paranoid, eh... (...my Mrs'll click on anything and everything...) :lol:

Thanks for the Symantec help link.

[joecar]

Graig,

I did what the Symantec help page suggested, but still no go.
I'm thinking I have to do something on my firewall also...?

Cheers,
Joe

[Ira]

The staggered cuts are so that when you solder and heat shrink everything together it does not make one great big clod; by staggerring the cuts you can spread out the splices along the length of the whole thing (becomes easier to tuck into slit tubing and to tuck neatly under car).

Staggered cuts have another big advantage, the lessen the chance of shorts in the splice because if you stagger enough, even with no shrink tubing the splice will not short.

Ira

[mtnman]

Ok, lets look at the alternative. If I have another bung installed in the exhaust pipe, none of this splicing, extra wire, etc is required, right?

There's really no way i can have the new bung in front of the existing bung, because its on the collector. Blacky has told me that the WB02 will give accurate readouts as long as its not too close to the NB02. I'll probably just have the extra bung behind the NB02 to avoid all the hassle of splicing and running extra wire.

[joecar]

Ok, lets look at the alternative. If I have another bung installed in the exhaust pipe, none of this splicing, extra wire, etc is required, right?

You still have to connect the LC-1 to 12V power and ground.

[jsttry]

Gents, I have a VY Commodore that has a 4 wire NB harness with different colours to listed in this thread. The 4 wires have a voltage of 12v, ground, 4.5v and 5v when the ignition is on.

NBO2 signal low/ground (5V) = LC-1 green
NBO2 signal (4.5V) = LC-1 yellow
Heater ground (0V) = LC-1 blue
Heater power (12V) = LC-1 red

Am I right in thinking the 4.5V is the NB02 signal and the 5V is the NB02 signal low/ground?

[joecar]

Am I right in thinking the 4.5V is the NB02 signal and the 5V is the NB02 signal low/ground?

The PCM "preloads" the NBO2 Signal wire with approx. +0.5V relative to the NBO2 Signal Ground wire
(and then the NBO2 sensor rides its signal on top of this, i.e. DC + AC).

So your signals would be:
5V = NB02 Signal
4.5V = NBO2 Signal Ground

However, you really do want to verify this from the wiring diagram for your vehicle,
someone in Oz must have a copy for you to look at (my CD covers US only).

Cheers
Joe
8)

[jsttry]

Well since I don't have a NB02 harness just yet I thought I'd wire the LC-1 up. It works OK however I think its reading a bit leaner than the PLX that I had a few weeks ago.

When Innovate say to calibrate the LC-1 by touching the black cable to the ground (unearthed) are they meaning the white system ground?

[Thumper]

Hi guys, maybe im just a little slow or something, but my car has 2 NB02's.
How does it connect up then. The tut. only shows connection to one NB. Do i need one for each side?
I am waiting for a innovate LM-1 WB, if that makes any difference.

[joecar]

You connect to one side, or get 2 WB's and then average between them (or choose one over the other).

You don't really need 2, altho 2 will show what both banks are doing.