Please Review This Tune.. 99 >>> 02

[tatasta]

Hello,

I have been working on this tune to migrate my calibrations from my original 1999 operating system to the newer 2002.

Future plans are to go to a VE tune and later to COS5.

Basically, I would just like to know if there are any big, glaring mistakes that I have made. I have not ran this yet so no logs but if the tune looks safe, I will load it and log some info.

I run a 100 hp wet shot so please keep that in mind while reviewing the tune.

Thank you

[joecar]

Looks good to me... when you full flash that in, your car should run as before.

[tatasta]

Thanks joe,

I made a rookie mistake, though. Went down to my car to load the OS. Bad time to realize that I need a commercial license and uhh... don't have one. lol Guess I'll be ordering one.

Thanks again

[Rontune]

My experience with 99 to 02 operating system conversion was big time knock sensor/KR problems. Car ran fine, was functional, but couldn’t sort out KR problems - went back to 99 operating system. Anyone else have this problem…if so, did you solve it.

[jetblast]

your timing table looks too advanced for that size shot, this tune was with a nano sys. and ran it at the track just yesterday. see comments section for more info. my wet shot kicks in at 4k rpm shuts off at 6.4krpm with a 6.5kfuel shit off. and i have 42lbs injectors with a walboro 340 . on a 100shot i usually see about 18degs when the shot kicks in

[joecar]

jetblast, I agree with what you're saying...

Robert is going to upgrade from 12212156 to 02020005 (COS5) where he can set the nitrous VE and spark modifier tables (triggered from PCM input pin which he will wire from nitrous solenoid/relay).

[jetblast]

oh!! ok, just thought that he was going to spray with that tune before the cos5 is enabled. the timing is kinda high anyways for n/a. i would not be comfortable if the eng. is not seing 18degs on a 100w shot especially with a cam with tighter lsa and perhaps a good efficient cnc cylinder head. that tune i posted gives me 20degs on the spray. i run 18 for the 100w and about 16 on the 150w and so on. i run 22 n/a.

[tatasta]

your timing table looks too advanced for that size shot, this tune was with a nano sys. and ran it at the track just yesterday. see comments section for more info. my wet shot kicks in at 4k rpm shuts off at 6.4krpm with a 6.5kfuel shit off. and i have 42lbs injectors with a walboro 340 . on a 100shot i usually see about 18degs when the shot kicks in


Thank you for the info and for posting up your tune.

What is normally considered a safe/best amount of advance when running WOT and N/A?

When STS was doing my tuning, my advance was around 29* when WOT AND on the 100 shot. I ran that tune for over a year a through a couple of bottles. I was not able to log my data but would have a friend write down real time data off of my Predator and never did see any KR nor did I see any other real problems. I am certainly not saying that I didn't have any issues with my tune back then but car did run good. I bought my EFI Live primarily to get my TCC straightened up but now I seem to be getting deeper and deeper.

I am adjusting my high and low octane tables to dial in timing. What are the other parameters to focus on while dealing with advance?

Next subject on my agenda is trying to get actual AFR to match commanded. (any tips would be great)

I will try to attach a huge log from my first run using the tune I posted in this thread.

Thanks

[joecar]

I don't know/remember the exact rules of thumb (I did research it once), but they are something like this:
- reduce timing by 2° for every 50 hp of shot,
- set AFR as rich as 11.0-11.5,
- make sure your fuel pump(s) can deliver reliably,
- use spark plugs two steps colder,
- use 92 octane gas or higher,
- limit your rpm min/max window (spray at/above peak TQ, stop before rev limiter),
- don't spray if there is insufficient fuel or rpms.

The AFR and timing are important... even if you don't see knock, combustion chamber temperatures going sky high will damage the pistons (which are only aluminium alloy).

Some people get lucky.

[joecar]

29° for NA is on the high side for the LS1...

It has been found empirically in dyno sessions that even if 29° doesn't knock (the CC temps will be higher), there was negligible or no power increase by going from say 27° to 29°... so a safe practice is to run at the lower timing (CC temps will be lower and the ability to knock is reduced).

[joecar]

Your log shows 27.5° and it looks like you did not spray.

To get actual measured AFR to match commanded AFR, follow the AutoVE tutorial...

I don't remember, what are all your mods...?

Depending on your mods, you increase the VE table by some amount, 15% would be an extremer case.

[joecar]

Your actual AFR is 5-6% leaner than commanded AFR...

your actual AFR just happens to be sufficiently rich for a safe WOT pull, and at 12.6 is in the right range for best peak torque.

[jetblast]

keep in mind that if you use higher oct race unleaded fuel, you'll run richer than sunnoco93oct. also my track tunes adjust for the lack of air restriction due to the removal of the maf screen,airfilter and headlight, so you need to take that into account on your setup.i have attached my street n/a tune for you to compare. notice the timing table is a bit flatter on 65wshot, the n/a tune can tolerate a tad higher in that region. my low octane timing table basically stays stock but not from the gto pcm instead. i used the z06 table. if you decide to go to a bigger shot, i would back off at least 3 degs on that table just in case.if you do back off some you'll have to increase the high timing table a bit. that big dip you see in the low loads high rpm section is to keep kr out when doing hellacious burnouts. i'll try to post the fuel graph soon. and finally consider my car weight to yours, the timing table should reflect that. oh, and my high oct table is not the stock gto, it's the zo6 modified a bit of course.

[tatasta]

Thanks, you're correct. No spray in that log. I will adjust my commanded AFR according to your advice.

I will drop my timing a bit as well before I spray it again. What would happen if I simply copied jetblast's timing tables and tried them? Obviously, less timing but other than that, any dangers if I used them just to see how the car performed?

Also, I did get my commercial upgrade so I will be working on the COS5 next weekend.

Thanks again guys

Mods -
Patriot LS6 CNC 243s
TR224 112
LS6 intake
SLP lid
FTRA CAI
BBK 80MM TB
100HP Wet Shot
EFI Live
Mac mid
ORY
Gibson Cat-Back
Fuddle 3400 2.1 Stall
BFG DRs 275/40/17
UMI Adj. T/A
BMR LCAs
BMR PHB
BMR STB
SLP Bilsteins
Mac SFC
Yank T/A Relo
3.70 9" Moser
Strange CM DS

[joecar]

Try jetblast's tables... just keep an eye on timing and AFR, they have to dip low during spray... avoid knock at all costs.

[jetblast]

i don't see that you have bigger injectors, you should upgrade. i was hitting 100% duty cycle in the winter with the stock one. also if you don't have a bigger pump, get one and don't forget the proper plugs too. if you decided to run on my 65w timing table, you will be fine. just take 2 more out for the 100w and bring the afr to 11.8 to 12.2. did you read the comments section? just open the cal window, good luck!!

[jetblast]

fuel curve