LTFT issues after installing w.b.

[smslyguy]

I can't seem to log any of my LTFT now since i have installed my lc1 wideband? I was logging them before. I can read the afr from the w.b, but can't seem to log any of the fuel trims short or long??

[mr.prick]

Are STFTs/LTFTs enabled?
Are the PIDs selected?
Are you simulating NBO2 with the WBO2?

[joecar]

How did you wire the LC-1.

[smslyguy]

How did you wire the LC-1.

per instructions. I did however, not wire the n.b off to the side. I have output 1 hooked up to the pcm, and output 2 to the gauge. I only did hook up one wire of the lc1 to the factory wire harness. Are you suppossed to hook up any more of the lc1's wire's to the pcm? I did set p0154 to no mil.

[smslyguy]

Are STFTs/LTFTs enabled?
Are the PIDs selected?
Are you simulating NBO2 with the WBO2?

Yes to all

[smslyguy]

Are STFTs/LTFTs enabled?
Are the PIDs selected?
Are you simulating NBO2 with the WBO2?

here is a copy of my scan with the selected pids.

[mr.prick]

Try changing P0154 back to B: 2 Trips, Emissions Related.
One bank should have LTFT/STFT data,
B2 S1 seems to be flatlined @ 450mV
Check your wiring again the LC-1 manual states:

The sensor element connection voltage fluctuates
around 0.45V when the car is warmed up.
Wire analog output 1 directly to this wire.

A = NBO2 Low Signal
B = NBO2 High Signal
C = GRD
D = 12V
http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=478&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1206689122

You have too many channels selected,
reduce the amount of PIDs until you are using 24 channels.

[joecar]

You need 2 wires to the vehicle harness: see pins A and B in post #7.

[smslyguy]

Try changing P0154 back to B: 2 Trips, Emissions Related.
One bank should have LTFT/STFT data,
B2 S1 seems to be flatlined @ 450mV
Check your wiring again the LC-1 manual states:

The sensor element connection voltage fluctuates
around 0.45V when the car is warmed up.
Wire analog output 1 directly to this wire.

A = NBO2 Low Signal
B = NBO2 High Signal
C = GRD
D = 12V
http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=478&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1206689122

You have too many channels selected,
reduce the amount of PIDs until you are using 24 channels.

if it was hooked up wrong could it still read on the gauge that came with the lc1? Which reads normal 14.6 afr. the car runs fine as well.

[mr.prick]

I mentioned wiring because it was stuck @ 450mV where as
the other NBO2 was switching high and low.
Is it wired like this
Wideband O2 Install
(http://download.efilive.com/Tutorials/PDF/Wideband%20O2%20Install%20Tutorial.pdf)
or like the LC-1 manual?

[smslyguy]

I mentioned wiring because it was stuck @ 450mV where as
the other NBO2 was switching high and low.
Is it wired like this
Wideband O2 Install
(http://download.efilive.com/Tutorials/PDF/Wideband%20O2%20Install%20Tutorial.pdf)
or like the LC-1 manual?

Is this install stating that the wb02 output has to be hooked up to be hookup to the - and + of the factory harness?? And also that the factory 02 sensor has to be hook-up to the + and - side of the 02 heater? I thought it was just the "black" wire that the wideband hooked into to simulate the nb02 on the factory wire harness?

[smslyguy]

if it was hooked up wrong could it still read on the gauge that came with the lc1? Which reads normal 14.6 afr. the car runs fine as well.

The drawing you have on here and the drawing you should be on later posts seems like they contridict one another. You have on here for the factory wire harness the "d" conector have 12 volts and on the other drawing you have it pluging into ,on the factory harness, nbo2 sensor input. Basically what color wire on the factory nb02 has to be hooked up to the factory wire harness. I do beleive i am missing one wire as to why my L.T.F.T. are not working.
I did not clamp my factory nbo2 sensor to the exhaust. oh in case i forgot to mention yes i am running the wbo2 to the factory wire harness.

[smslyguy]

You need 2 wires to the vehicle harness: see pins A and B in post #7.

I beleive the wb02 simulated nb02 hookes up to the "b" terminal so then the "a" terminal would get hooked up to the factory nb02, which would be clamped to the exhaust. Is this correct?

[smslyguy]

You need 2 wires to the vehicle harness: see pins A and B in post #7.

after looking at what wire i had hooked up i found that i had output 1 from the wb02 hooked into the "c" (black wire) on the factory plug. Is this correct?

[mr.prick]

I should have posted the O2 schematic as well,
this is for an Fbody.

6132
A = NBO2 Low Signal
B = NBO2 High Signal
C = GRD
D = 12V
http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=478&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1206689122

Output#1 (yellow) from the LC-1 is pre-programmed to simulate a NBO2 signal,
it goes to the high and low signal of the NBO2 (A & B).
You can also get you power and ground from here. :)

[smslyguy]

I should have posted the O2 schematic as well,
this is for an Fbody.

6132
A = NBO2 Low Signal
B = NBO2 High Signal
C = GRD
D = 12V
http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=478&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1206689122

Output#1 (yellow) from the LC-1 is pre-programmed to simulate a NBO2 signal,
it goes to the high and low signal of the NBO2 (A & B).
You can also get you power and ground from here. :)
6133

ah, so the output (norrow band) of the wbo2 wire goes to both a and b terminals. I have only hooked it up to the "b" terminal, ok. Now is it really necessary to hook or clamp you factory o2 sensor to the exhaust and have it hook up as well???

[smslyguy]

I should have posted the O2 schematic as well,
this is for an Fbody.

6132
A = NBO2 Low Signal
B = NBO2 High Signal
C = GRD
D = 12V
http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=478&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1206689122

Output#1 (yellow) from the LC-1 is pre-programmed to simulate a NBO2 signal,
it goes to the high and low signal of the NBO2 (A & B).
You can also get you power and ground from here. :)
6133

see joe car has the in another post labels as such:

A terminal goes to the lc1's green wire
B terminal goes to the lc1's yellow wire
C terminal goes to the blue wire
D terminal goes to the red wire.

your diagrams says the yellow wire goes to both "A" and "B" teminal. Which one is correct here??
also on joecar's diagram the 6 wire lc1 doesn't have green wire. WHich wire are you supposed to use for the green then?? or is his diagram wrong??

[mr.prick]

The green wire is the analog ground.
Do you have 7 wires or 6?

That drawing says to splice the output to both but that seems odd now that you mention it.
Has anyone figured out LC1 NB simulation? (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=1105&highlight=LC1+wires&page=2)
Post #15 (http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.php?p=14135&postcount=15)

IMO mount the LC-1 separate from the NBO2.

[smslyguy]

The green wire is the analog ground.
Do you have 7 wires or 6?

That drawing says to splice the output to both but that seems odd now that you mention it.
Has anyone figured out LC1 NB simulation? (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=1105&highlight=LC1+wires&page=2)
Post #15 (http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.php?p=14135&postcount=15)

IMO mount the LC-1 separate from the NBO2.

i have 6 wire for my lc1

[smslyguy]

The green wire is the analog ground.
Do you have 7 wires or 6?

That drawing says to splice the output to both but that seems odd now that you mention it.
Has anyone figured out LC1 NB simulation? (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=1105&highlight=LC1+wires&page=2)
Post #15 (http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.php?p=14135&postcount=15)

IMO mount the LC-1 separate from the NBO2.

so are you saying to splice into both "A" and "B" terminals for the yellow wire? or???

[joecar]

see joe car has the in another post labels as such:

A terminal goes to the lc1's green wire
B terminal goes to the lc1's yellow wire
C terminal goes to the blue wire
D terminal goes to the red wire.

your diagrams says the yellow wire goes to both "A" and "B" teminal. Which one is correct here??
also on joecar's diagram the 6 wire lc1 doesn't have green wire. WHich wire are you supposed to use for the green then?? or is his diagram wrong??You can use the white wire in place of the green wire.

Where do you power your LC-1 from...?

The PCM has two inputs for the NBO2 signal:
A = NBO2 Low Signal <- LC-1 green or white.
B = NBO2 High Signal <- LC-1 yellow.

The other two pins C, D are for powering the factory NBO2 heater...
these two pins can be used to power your LC-1 if your car is a Camaro/Firebird (as mr.prick said, the LC-1 is fuse protected like this), and not if it's a GTO (power/ground is PCM switched).

[joecar]

if it was hooked up wrong could it still read on the gauge that came with the lc1? Which reads normal 14.6 afr. the car runs fine as well.Yes.


so are you saying to splice into both "A" and "B" terminals for the yellow wire? or???No.


after looking at what wire i had hooked up i found that i had output 1 from the wb02 hooked into the "c" (black wire) on the factory plug. Is this correct?This is bad, you may have damaged your LC-1 controller (blown the DAC output).


ah, so the output (norrow band) of the wbo2 wire goes to both a and b terminals. I have only hooked it up to the "b" terminal, ok. Now is it really necessary to hook or clamp you factory o2 sensor to the exhaust and have it hook up as well???No, not both A and B.

Yellow wire to B only.
Green or White to A.

No not necessary to clamp/connect factory NBO2.

[joecar]

If you already wired your LC-1 to switched/fused power, then all you need is these 2 connections to do NB sim:

A <- LC-1 green or white wire
B <- LC-1 yellow wire



...
A = NBO2 Low Signal
B = NBO2 High Signal
C = GRD
D = 12V
http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=478&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1206689122

[mr.prick]

so are you saying to splice into both "A" and "B" terminals for the yellow wire? or???

No, don't do that.

The drawing is misleading,
it shows a splice off of one line for the low and high
and the same for power and ground.
All 4 should be separate to be taken literally.

Joecar has it right.

[joecar]

That drawing showed wires "bundled" together and split out at the points of connection... a person would have to know this about wire diagrams otherwise it would seem like a single wire going to multiple connections.

[smslyguy]

That drawing showed wires "bundled" together and split out at the points of connection... a person would have to know this about wire diagrams otherwise it would seem like a single wire going to multiple connections.

oh ok, thanks for all the imput i will hook it up as you had suggested and get back to you. i just hope i didn't burn anything out from being hooked up wrong?? ouch,, still don't understand how the car still ran 14.6 during cruise and even in p.e mode it would hit 12.7 maybe it was stuck in open loop from these wires being crossed??

[smslyguy]

That drawing showed wires "bundled" together and split out at the points of connection... a person would have to know this about wire diagrams otherwise it would seem like a single wire going to multiple connections.

so i have it hooked up now and my voltage between the two banks looks good, but now i am experiencing spark knock of about 3.2 which to me would indicate a lean condition ,but the gauge say it's not lean at all. Mainly under light loads though. I am kinda at a loss here. here is my scan.

[joecar]

Do you have the LC-1 connected to bank1 (LHS) or bank2 (RHS)...?

If it's connected to bank2 then the NB sim is not working (see HO2S21).

[joecar]

You can remove these pids:
O2xxx
xxxAVGxxx

(by getting the pid channel count to 24 or less, you get the fastest frame rate).

[smslyguy]

You can remove these pids:
O2xxx
xxxAVGxxx

(by getting the pid channel count to 24 or less, you get the fastest frame rate).

which pid selectin are you supposed to use for the v.e tables? I have the lc1 on bank 2 but i can't seem to log anything.

[mr.prick]

Too many channels are being logged and the log is short.
NBO2 voltage {GM.HO2S21} is still stuck around 450mV and
still no LTFT or STFT data from either bank. :confused:
Are you sure fuel trims are enabled?

The stock NBO2 has a wider range than the pre-programmed LC-1 output.
{GM.HO2Sxx} Range: 0.0000 to 1.1132 Volts
LC-1 pre-programmed: 0.103 to 1.099 Volts

[mr.prick]

which pid selectin are you supposed to use for the v.e tables? I have the lc1 on bank 2 but i can't seem to log anything.

SAE.MAP (column) and SAE.RPM (row)

[smslyguy]

SAE.MAP (column) and SAE.RPM (row)

yes,but what data are you supposed to log with these??

[mr.prick]

[Parameters]
GM.AFR
GM.DYNCYLAIR_DMA
GM.HO2S11
GM.HO2S21
GM.KR
SAE.ECT
SAE.LONGFT1
SAE.LONGFT2
SAE.MAP
SAE.RPM
SAE.SHRTFT1
SAE.SHRTFT2
SAE.SPARKADV
SAE.TP
Add your WBO2 PIDs and MAF PIDs if it is enabled, up to 24 channels.
At the bottom above the play back and record "buttons" you will see
Selected Channels:

[smslyguy]

[Parameters]
GM.AFR
GM.DYNCYLAIR_DMA
GM.HO2S11
GM.HO2S21
GM.KR
SAE.ECT
SAE.LONGFT1
SAE.LONGFT2
SAE.MAP
SAE.RPM
SAE.SHRTFT1
SAE.SHRTFT2
SAE.SPARKADV
SAE.TP
Add your WBO2 PIDs and MAF PIDs if it is enabled, up to 24 channels.
At the bottom above the play back and record "buttons" you will see
Selected Channels:

thanks for the info, but why only 24 channels? is that all the pcm is rated for? or does it just slow it down?

[mr.prick]

Logging will be slow,
24 channels is the max for Stream-Fast scan mode.

When using the Stream-Fast scan mode, the PCM transmits 24 channels of PID data at 10 frames per second (8 fps for Duramax).

Scan tool properties> Logging tab> Scan Mode: More Info.

[smslyguy]

Logging will be slow,
24 channels is the max for Stream-Fast scan mode.


Scan tool properties> Logging tab> Scan Mode: More Info.

is it possible that you can set a mil light from having the switch points on the wb off? I have it set to 1/6th speed and it works for about 40 miles then the mil comes on.

[mr.prick]

What is the DTC? (mil)

[smslyguy]

What is the DTC? (mil)

po1153 insuficient switching bank 2 sensor 1 the same sensor the w.b. is on.

[mr.prick]

It's probably not a coincidence. :hihi:
The pre-programmed resolution seems too narrow.
Try different outputs and 1/6 response.

[smslyguy]

It's probably not a coincidence. :hihi:
The pre-programmed resolution seems too narrow.
Try different outputs and 1/6 response.

so your saying try output 2 on the w.b? It was set at 1/6th speed. When the mil light was on the w.b. gauge was reading 14.6 pretty steady unlike before the mil the w.b. gauge was fluactuating all over 14.6 to mainly 14.2. I didn't think it is or was supposed to move from stoich unless it hit p.e mode. is this a correct statement?

[mr.prick]

I meant re-program the output values.
The stock NBO2 switches differently and they're not linear.

[smslyguy]

I meant re-program the output values.
The stock NBO2 switches differently and they're not linear.

what should i re-program them to?

[smslyguy]

I meant re-program the output values.
The stock NBO2 switches differently and they're not linear.

what value's should be entered in for the output values? thought they were already pre-program into the lc-1 output?

[mr.prick]

:nixweiss:
I don't know but
if LTFT Bank1 and LTFT Bank2 are close to each other then the
pre-programmed output values are probably good enough.
Don't worry about the MIL turn it off.

[smslyguy]

:nixweiss:
I don't know but
if LTFT Bank1 and LTFT Bank2 are close to each other then the
pre-programmed output values are probably good enough.
Don't worry about the MIL turn it off.

can you program with your w.b if it is setting a mil?

[mr.prick]

You are getting LTFT/STFT data now right?
And the voltage between B1&B2 is comparable?
I wouldn't worry as long as the LTFTs on that bank aren't too far away from the other.

[smslyguy]

You are getting LTFT/STFT data now right?
And the voltage between B1&B2 is comparable?
I wouldn't worry as long as the LTFTs on that bank aren't too far away from the other.

sounds good, thanks for the info.