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willn
September 9th, 2009, 01:39 PM
Hey guys I finally got this LC-1 installed and it is acting kinda strange. The LED will light up solid, but when I scan, it will sometimes jump from 10 to 20 and back and forth but will not give me an accurate reading. Today, it stayed in the 20s range and then a little into the drive, the LED started blinking and then the AFR started looking good. It was giving good readings. Does this mean it needs to be re calibrated and if so, do I have to remove the O2 to do this?

joecar
September 9th, 2009, 01:45 PM
Did you do:
- heater calibration (power up LC-1 with sensor removed from it, then power up LC-1 with sensor connected to it);
- free air calibration (initiate with sensor in clean air, or after at least 6 hours of engine off, use shop vac to clear exhaust);

The LC-1 will blink the LED for about 20-30 seconds when first powered up...

Then, while operating, the LC-1 will blink the LED if an error occurs, count the blinks for the error code.

willn
September 9th, 2009, 01:47 PM
Yes I did both of those calibrations, but during the free air, my battery died, but I did it again. Why would it actually work better when the LED is blinking during driving?

joecar
September 9th, 2009, 01:49 PM
The blinking LED is telling you an error code... I don't know why it would work better, but it's possible... ;)

What error code is it blinking...?

willn
September 9th, 2009, 01:50 PM
I am not sure on this, I didn't know that's what that meant. I will have to check it next time. Where is the list of error code blinks?

joecar
September 9th, 2009, 01:51 PM
The LC-1 user manual Appendix C:
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

willn
September 9th, 2009, 01:53 PM
BRB, I will check the error code now.

joecar
September 9th, 2009, 01:53 PM
Also see Appendix B.

willn
September 9th, 2009, 02:33 PM
Alright, just tested it again and this time no error codes. It blinked when I first turned it on and then went solid. From that point even during driving the voltage on AD1 was 4.2-4.4V and never changed, which calculated to about 20:1 AFR. Can I do a free air calibration only in the morning before I start the truck and you think that might fix it?

mr.prick
September 9th, 2009, 03:14 PM
Check the fuel settings.

willn
September 9th, 2009, 03:19 PM
Check what fuel settings? I am not sure what you mean.

mr.prick
September 9th, 2009, 05:04 PM
The LC-1 has fuel type settings for gas, diesel, ethanol, ect.
Make sure it is set to the fuel you are using.
Sometimes these will change for unknown reasons.
Mine happened to do this today actually.
It was set to custom 1750:1

You will need a USB to Serial RS-232 Adapter (http://www.iogear.com/product/GUC232A/)
if you can't connect it to your PC directly.

willn
September 9th, 2009, 05:08 PM
Oh yah, I checked that. It was on gasoline. I am just going to try the free air calibration in the morning and see if that fixes it, if not, I will do the full heater/free air again. How would I tell if the O2 is bad?

mr.prick
September 9th, 2009, 05:12 PM
Mine will drop connection and give Error8 or 9 under load
or AFR will read unreasonably lean @ WOT if the sensor is bad.

Garry
September 9th, 2009, 05:42 PM
When my WBO2 was fried, I also got lean values (though it started out fine right after turning on the motor), I also ha occasional/frequent warm-up errors ... if you know anybody with an LC1, swap sensors and see if it works again ...

willn
September 9th, 2009, 05:48 PM
Well now my question is can I do a free air calibration with it in the exhaust pipe after letting it sit all night? This is also pre-cat.

mr.prick
September 9th, 2009, 06:05 PM
You can but it's not the preferred method.
Some people rev the engine a little before turning it off
to evacuate the exhaust.

willn
September 10th, 2009, 02:22 PM
Alright, so driving today after a free air calibration it worked great for about 10 minutes of driving and LED was solid, then LED kinda freaked out and it gave error blinks, but they were sporadic. On the way home from work it was pegged at 20:1 AFR and fluctuating in that range, until again, about 10 mins into driving the LED started blinking again. This time it gave the actual error code of 3. So, this is saying pump cell short. It says could also mean overheating. What is weird is the the whole time it gave me this error LED, it would read the correct AFR. I am thinking since it is happening about 10 minutes after I have the truck running, it is overheating and that's why I am getting the code, but why would it not work before that? I am at a loss. I think I may do another heater and then free air cal. Any ideas?