Low Octane tables please help!!!

[ssdungeon]

Someone please see if you can see why my car STAYS in the low octane tables.


These are the values at WOT
IAT - 84
ECT -188-190
Later in the run got to 192 (I have been contemplating the 160 Tstat)
On a regular driving run. not much KR at all maybe every now and then for a blip or two then nothing. I noticed at WOT at least 50% of the time I get 1-3.5 degrees of knock. Any other time it NEVER hits the high octane tables. I have run it down to 1 gal avail and filled up with 93... drove around for 15 minutes then l0gged. Same thing low timing tables.


OK I think I have a few runs uploaded. 01 Z, Ported TB, TB bypass, CATS!,3" ORY with Elect Cutout, EGR, LT headers, LID, K&N,

[SSpdDmon]

Did you try logging GM.ASPARK?

[ssdungeon]

Did you try logging GM.ASPARK?
Yes.
It never goes above 22 deg

mostly sticking around 17-20 durring WOT.

One thing I did today was finish removing the EGR stuff. There was a little hose left over that I plugged. Not sure if a little leak is enough to put me in the low octane tables.

Ill post up a file with a few WOTs and regular driving on my trip to Charlotte in the morning.

Anything else I should log to help ID the problem just let me know and Ill add the PID.

[GMPX]

No he means you need to log the PID that shows where the scaler is at for the interpolation between the High and Low Octane tables. Don't take the values you see as using one or the other, it always blends between the two tables (unless there is a problem with the MAF or knock sensors).

[whackem04]

so when the scaler is in the 90's and going up its in the high octane?
can you please explain.

[ssdungeon]

Ill be sure to log it. What should it be at WOT?


Did you try logging GM.ASPARK?


Thanks,

[SSpdDmon]

It should ideally be 100 all the time. KR will reduce the scaler.

[joecar]

Graphically:

See how when KR occurs (red circle), ASPARK drops from 100% (blue circle), and if KR stops then ASPARK slowly inches back up.

[whackem04]

so back to the original question, what does he need to do to get the high octane table back in the picture?

[ssdungeon]

But its still not right. Im seeing more knock than I should. My tuner pkg should be here next week but for now Im trying to narrow down whats causing this.

This was a few wots from a 2hr drive. I did get one or two runs with normal timing (when I stayed in the correct tables boy did she feel better 10 degrees of timing sure makes a helluva big difference). But it was out of about 12 runs. I jsut posted a few here. Excuse the wierd names typing with one hand and driving 80 down the interstate I just hit keys.

I learned something new with the scaler. Very useful PID when I can actually start tweaking the timing tables a bit.

I did notice my fuel trims were off seemed to be running a bit lean on one bank and the other was not registerring. This happened since my last runs and I did remove the EGR stuff completely yesterday. Ill double check to see if I knocked something loose but I doubt it.

[joecar]

Hi ssdungeon (http://forum.efilive.com/member.php?u=230),

Before capturing more logs, do these 2 things:
- Go Edit->Properties->Logging->Scan Mode and select Stream-Fast,
- get the pid channel count down to 24 (gives fastest sample rate), see bottom of PIDs tab.

Can you read your PCM's flash and post the file here...?

Do drive safe (don't watch/manipulate the laptop... just capture a long log)...!!!

[ssdungeon]

Done and the car runs really strong but I cant ignore the timing its pulling is often from the low octane table.

Since I cant see what the problem is here. When my tuning package arrives, any suggestions on what I should change first? I see that I could richen it up a little thats all I can see.

Thanks in advance...


Hi ssdungeon (http://forum.efilive.com/member.php?u=230),

Before capturing more logs, do these 2 things:
- Go Edit->Properties->Logging->Scan Mode and select Stream-Fast,
- get the pid channel count down to 24 (gives fastest sample rate), see bottom of PIDs tab.

Can you read your PCM's flash and post the file here...?

Do drive safe (don't watch/manipulate the laptop... just capture a long log)...!!!

[GAMEOVER]

Post up your current tune...

[ssdungeon]

I only have V.2 so I dont think I can get a tune from that. I have ordered the tuner pkg i expect it to come next week.


Post up your current tune...

[GAMEOVER]

Hugh??? I must be missing something
You can't read your current tune from your vehicle with a laptop & the V2 in pass-thru mode?

[ssdungeon]

Let me figure it out. I have never tried. let me go through the manual and see if I can figure it out.


Hugh??? I must be missing something
You can't read your current tune from your vehicle with a laptop & the V2 in pass-thru mode?

[joecar]

Do you have V2 ScanOnly and are getting V2 Scan&Tune upgrade...?

Open the tunetool and go Help->About and post a screenshot of that.

[joecar]

Your WOT advance is upto ~27°... that seems to me to be from the HO table...

You seem to get a lot of KR, for various reasons...

I noticed the LTFT's are positive indicating there is a possibility of being lean at WOT which may lead to KR...

Can you hear it knocking...?

Is your exhaust banging into the chassis...? This can trigger KR.

[ssdungeon]

I dont hear it knocking it sounds really healthy. Since fixing the vaccum leak I have got a few runs in the right octane table. Most runs are low octane table only though. I can see it try to climb out and sometimes hit 25 starting at 17 but then it will fall back to low 20s. My exhaust doesnt hit at all. It USE TO REALLY BADLY. The new exhaust with cutout doesnt. I havent deleted the O2s since the headers. The only tuner I have right now until fedex comes is powerpac touch screen which is a JOKE. I saw the lean runs in several runs. I even noticed my injector duty cycles getting in the high 90s in some runs.

Besides going a little lean at WOT anything else stick out that causes the KR? I may mix a 5 gallons of 100 octane and see if that stops it.


Your WOT advance is upto ~27°... that seems to me to be from the HO table...

You seem to get a lot of KR, for various reasons...

I noticed the LTFT's are positive indicating there is a possibility of being lean at WOT which may lead to KR...

Can you hear it knocking...?

Is your exhaust banging into the chassis...? This can trigger KR.

[joecar]

Check intake manifold for oil...

Oil may be ingested via PCV plumbing... this lowers the effective octane number and may promote knock.

[ssdungeon]

Now that may be the problem. When I ported my TB here recently it was a LOT gunked around the blade. I cleaned that up. Ill poke around in the intake and see if there are any gobs there.
Thats the type input I was looking for. If I do find it, which I expect I probably will thinking back on the condition of the throttle body. Is there any agent to clean it or should I just yank it off and bathe it?


Check intake manifold for oil...

Oil may be ingested via PCV plumbing... this lowers the effective octane number and may promote knock.

[joecar]

Burning oil also causes deposits on combustion chamber which may promote knock...

You can do this:
- remove throttle body and clean it,,
- while TB is off, spray a moderate amount (don't overdo it) of TB cleaner into inside of manifold;
- reinstall TB, run motor to clear out what you sprayed in;
- run top engine cleaner into manifold, let it soak for a few hours, then bring rpm up under load (I am told Mopar foam TEC works good);

If you are pulling oil thru PCV, then you have to fix this (catch can, LS6 valley cover, other...).


You may also want to clean MAF sensor... use MAF cleaner for this (MAF cleaner leaves no residue, TB cleaner leaves residue).

[whackem04]

just take it off and pound it with the purple power. that will at least give better airflow:fluffy: