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Ed Blown Vert
October 31st, 2005, 07:17 AM
What do I need to add a wideband to my EFI Live scanner. Do I need to upgrade to Flashscan?

Ira
October 31st, 2005, 08:40 AM
If you're using EFILive with an AutoTap cable you'll need to upgrade to Flashscan if you want EFILive to scan an LC-1 wide band controller.

Ira

98WS6_JPM
October 31st, 2005, 10:36 AM
LC-1 Tutorial located at:
http://www.efilive.com/doc/index.html

Ed Blown Vert
October 31st, 2005, 12:20 PM
If you're using EFILive with an AutoTap cable you'll need to upgrade to Flashscan if you want EFILive to scan an LC-1 wide band controller.

Ira

Well crap. I already tune with HPTuners. Guess I'll get it for Tuners. :(

mistermike
November 1st, 2005, 04:36 AM
HPT also requires the enhanced interface cable to tune with a wideband. The forthcoming EFILive flashscan cable will redefine the vehicle interface.
http://www.efilive.com/flashscan.html

Ed Blown Vert
November 1st, 2005, 04:56 AM
HPT also requires the enhanced interface cable to tune with a wideband. The forthcoming EFILive flashscan cable will redefine the vehicle interface.
http://www.efilive.com/flashscan.html

True, but it will only cost me about $150 instead of upgrading to Flashscan for $350.

TAQuickness
November 1st, 2005, 06:46 AM
can win them all, but I can tell you first hand, it's real nice tuning with a complete package

!shamelessplug

Ed Blown Vert
November 8th, 2005, 06:44 AM
can win them all, but I can tell you first hand, it's real nice tuning with a complete package

!shamelessplug

I would upgrade, but I already have HPTuners for all years of LS1's
And I may still do it. I really like EFI for the scanner.

Ed Blown Vert
November 8th, 2005, 06:58 AM
Ok, I see two upgrade plans. One for $350 to upgrade to Flashscan and Tune.

Then another one for $200 for just Flashscan. So this is all I would need right? $200 I can handle. :)

Blacky
November 8th, 2005, 09:57 AM
Ok, I see two upgrade plans. One for $350 to upgrade to Flashscan and Tune.

Then another one for $200 for just Flashscan. So this is all I would need right? $200 I can handle. :)

The $349 upgrade is for upgrading from EFILive Pro Scan Tool (running on AutoTap hardware) to EFILive FlashScan Personal Scan and Tune (running on FlashScan hardware).

The $199 upgrade is for upgrading from EFILive Pro Scan Tool (running on AutoTap hardware) to EFILive FlashScan Personal Scan Only (running on FlashScan hardware).

If you don't already have an EFIlive Pro or Std Scan tool license then there are no (cost effective*) upgrade paths to the FlashScan based Tuning Tool or the FlashScan based Scan Tool.

* Upgrades paths exist but after applying multiple individual upgrades it woul dbe cheaper to purchase the final product outright.

Regards
Paul

Ed Blown Vert
November 8th, 2005, 01:02 PM
I currently run EFI Live Pro so if I go with the $199 upgrade. Then I can run the LC-1?

Blacky
November 8th, 2005, 01:27 PM
I currently run EFI Live Pro so if I go with the $199 upgrade. Then I can run the LC-1?

Yes, use this link in the store:
http://store.efilive.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=26

Regards
Paul

Ed Blown Vert
November 8th, 2005, 03:32 PM
Thanks! :)

Ed Blown Vert
November 10th, 2005, 03:05 PM
I currently run EFI Live Pro so if I go with the $199 upgrade. Then I can run the LC-1?

Yes, use this link in the store:
http://store.efilive.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=26

Regards
Paul

Ahhh can't order it.




An internal error has occurred while performing an action on this site.

If you continue to have this error, please contact us and we will be glad to help you.
Thank you for your patience.

Click here to go back: back
Click here to go to the homepage: http://store.efilive.com/index.asp

Blacky
November 10th, 2005, 03:15 PM
I just tried ordering that product and the order went through ok.

Do you have cookies enabled on your browser?
Are you able to try again? (I won't let multiple orders be charged to your card).

Regards
Paul

Ed Blown Vert
November 10th, 2005, 03:26 PM
It didn't work when I hit 'checkout' then new customer.

But its working now.

ringram
November 15th, 2005, 04:46 AM
Cool, got mine installed. PID works ok I can see LC-1 AFR.
Only problem is the NB02 simulation doesnt work.
Wiring must be right as WB works. Green to flashscan grd and brown to AD1.
Green to NB Low and Yellow to NB high? Is that right? Looked right according to docs and so on.
Anyway I cant check with the LC-1 calibration software as I have no serial port on my laptop. Bloody serial connections. I ordered one, so will check whats going on there as soon as it arrives.

ringram
November 15th, 2005, 06:15 AM
Ok scrub that. A further referral to the Holden LS1 engine manual told me that i had the High and Low PCM outputs back to front (problem with using household power cables with different colours!).

Works ok now, though the LC-1 sim is a little more erratic than the NB, but follows much the same path. Perhaps when I get the serial cable I can calibrate it properly.

Extinct
November 16th, 2005, 01:47 AM
OK, I need some help understanding exactly what you are saying here because I am having some trouble getting the NB sim to work on my LM1 (which should be essentially the same as the LC1).

I have the sim NB output of the LM1 connected to the H02 high wire, and I have tried connecting leaving the H02 low wire disconnected, and connected to the LM1 ground wire, but neither works ok. The LM1 is working fine, because I can read the voltages no problem in Live, and it is reading the voltages commanded ( I was testing it by commandind the NB sim channel output a linear voltage at all times - .75 volts). However, the voltage reported by the H02 channel of the pcm does not move from .455 volts no matter what ???

Do I have something connected wrong ?

ringram
November 18th, 2005, 10:23 AM
Yes probably.
Green and yellow are your friends.

The go in NB high and low. The other 2 are power and ground for the heater.

Green is NB low/ analog ground which apparently you should also tie the white cable to "system ground". I earthed these, but it worked without doing this ok.
You might have high and low around the wrong way, sounds like what I did.
Also check your connections etc.

Extinct
November 18th, 2005, 01:50 PM
Thanks, I figured it out today talking to a bud of mine. The H02 low wire on the NB is actually connected to the body of the NB, so that it is in effect grounded to the exhaust pipe. Confirmed with my DVM. So now I know all I need to do is ground the NB low and the LM1 Analog ground and I will be golden !

Thanks for the response !

jsttry
November 18th, 2005, 07:36 PM
what is the voltage on the high and low NB meant to be?

ringram
November 18th, 2005, 10:04 PM
unconnected they come out 5v and 4.5v or there abouts.

Extinct
November 19th, 2005, 12:39 AM
Not exactly correct, the NB high voltage varies from 0 to 1.1 volts, that voltage is actually created by the 02 sensor. NB low is just a reference ground, ground it to the chassis and you will be good to go. The PCM does send a reference voltage out down that wire, but it does so just to establish the reference ground point. Disconnected you will measure .45 volts at the NB low

ringram
November 19th, 2005, 01:17 AM
Sorry yeah I was talking of the PCM NB02 wires not the LC-1 ones.

joecar
November 19th, 2005, 05:54 AM
The PCM preloads HO2S Low with 4.0V and HO2S High with 4.5V (each wrt to PCM ground);
the NBO2 sensor then rides (adds) its +/- 0.5V on top of HO2S High;

So (with NBO2 sensor plugged in)...
a. wrt to HO2S Low, HO2S High ranges from 0.0V to 1.0V.
b. wrt to PCM ground, HO2S High ranges from 4.0V to 5.0V.

When connecting a WBO2 to simulate NBO2, keep in mind that PCM Ground and HO2S Low are not at the same (i.e. WBO2 analog ground should not be connected to any other grounds; if it is connected to vehicle ground, say, then this will try to pull down the PCM's HO2S Low from 4.0V to 0.0V (...and may wreck the PCM...?)).

Extinct
November 19th, 2005, 07:29 AM
I don't think grounding the H02 low to chassis ground will fry the pcm, because when I checked the NB sensor I removed from my system, the low wire was connected directly to the body of the sensor, no resistance at all. That tells me that the low wire is grounded and the pcm is just looking at it to determine the ground reference value.

ringram
November 19th, 2005, 10:35 AM
Yeah check out this from the man himself Klaus at Innovate

--
Hi,

The reason the LC-1 has multiple grounds is precisely because the heater current is large and can create ground offsets. By connecting it to a different ground point you avoid that. Connecting the dataloggers ground reference to the system/analog out ground point should eliminate any ground offsets. To test the datalogger's reference itself, connect it's input to the system/analog ground point instead if the analog out. What you'll see is the dataloggers internal ground offset if any.

Regards,
Klaus
--
Also see the rest of the thread here http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2489

This is why I tied all my LC-1 grounds together. Unless I misunderstood something?

Extinct
November 19th, 2005, 12:31 PM
Exactly ! Later in that same thread Klaus discusses why most pcm's use the engine as there reference ground. This is what I found when measuring the H02 low signal wire, it gets grounded to the engine via the exhaust system.

My bud grounded the LM1 ground, the datalogger ground (not flashscan - LT1, and the H02 low (ground) all to the same spot on his engine.

I can't test this on my car right now because it is in the body shop, but a week from tomorrow I should get it back and will test it then and report back here. :D