TBSS Tuning....

[1BadAction]

What has everyone done, and how are they working? Erik, Jay, I'm looking at you guys :hihi: Hot-Dog, where you at with the one you were messing with? You still around ft. misery? Big tex, you still messing around with yours?

With the nice long run of cold weather upon me, I'm trying to get it running at its best, then when the hot weather rolls back around I'll be able to base the adjustments on what I have now. This summer I'll likely drop the big radiator in it along with e-fans, I'm not liking the electro-viscous one too much, truthfully. :gossip:

Jim

[DrkPhx]

*Torque Managerment (TM) really kills performance and makes it feel soft. Reducing that can significantly help.
* The PE of course needs some tweaking as well.
* A really big problem with the TB SS is the ECT and IAT spark tables. They are really aggressive in some of the hotter temps and can reduce spark by as much as 8-10 degrees. You can really feel the difference.
* The ETC tip in tables should be adjusted as well for crisper launches to get rid of the dead spot when flooring it from a stop.
* Adjusting the tranmission shift speeds can firm up the soft shift points.

Bone stock; I picked about 17whp (I have a AWD) and a lot morevtorgue in the lower-mid rpms with a relatively mild tune and it was still reducing spark at WOT. I've since tweaked it further and added a CAI. All in all, a tune make a night a day difference for the TB SS. Hope this helps.

[1BadAction]

Are you talking about "torque reduction" on the up/downshifts in the T42 program, or are you talking about an 06 with whats called TM like the older vehicles?

One of the things I have done on the E67 is smoothed out the flat spot in the "throttle tip-in tq reduction" table some. I also modified the burst knock and timing tables to get rid of that annoying off-idle stumble. Nothing wild, just making it like it should have been from the factory.

[DrkPhx]

Correct, it's called Torque Reduction in the T42 controller. I still call it TM, old habits die hard I guess. I have an '06. Good point about the Burst Knock; these have horrible false knock. My tables are reduced quite a bit as are the values in the Tip in Max Torque table.

[1BadAction]

I have 2 degrees of KR from 4200 to 5800 no matter what the timing table says, stock, modified, etc. Its not knocking because I can't see it spiking in the log, so I desensitized the sensors just a hair. I actually think its the resonance of the exhaust doing it because its only when its in 2nd gear loaded, and I have a straight pipe where the main muffler used to be that resonates like a MF, lol.

[ScarabEpic22]

Unfortunately I havent really done anything to my SS except throw that BBA tune thats been floating around on the tbssowners site. Its alright, but its not anywhere close to perfect thats for sure. I can tell the SS is a lot more picky engine to engine than the 4.2L I6 is. Still driving my 02 around for now, did some wideband logging and minor tuning on it again but EFILive still doesnt have 3 critical PIDs that any tuner needs to get the VE table dialed in perfectly yet.

Ill be driving the SS full time starting in a week and a half when it gets brought to me here in Spokane, then Ill get my wideband bung welded in and get it installed. Finally Ill be able to get some nice long logs around town and on the highway with the PIDs setup properly for AutoVE and then start messing with spark.

[DrkPhx]

Indeed the TB SS is finicky to tune; much harder than a LS1 car. It took me countless logs and tunes to get it right, but well worth it in the end. I do want to get a WB bung welded in so I can monitor the AFR.

[ScarabEpic22]

Indeed the TB SS is finicky to tune; much harder than a LS1 car. It took me countless logs and tunes to get it right, but well worth it in the end. I do want to get a WB bung welded in so I can monitor the AFR.

Yea, I bought an LC1 with a blue AFR guage that I had in my 02 for a few months and took out on the 27th of Dec so I could pass emissions and get new plates/tabs for my 02 before my trip to Canada. Going to have an exhaust shop weld in the bung here in a few weeks when I get a chance after the 20th and then wire everything up.

Love the Serial output, makes the connections a breeze.:rockon:

Great to hear the SS is harder than an LS1 to tune...just what I wanted to hear. But I imagine the P10 is harder than both so I should be alright lol.

[1BadAction]

Believe it or not, I've had the bung welded in for almost a year now, and the LC1 unit riding under the hood without power or a sensor on it. I will probably hook the WB up tomorrow and go from there. I also need to do some data logging with a boat hooked up, but I don't think that will be much of an issue.

Like I eluded to in the previous post, in my own mind, I can't justify tuning in the heat of the summer. I would rather do it now and let the IAT and other heat based tables do their job in the summer (obviously tweak them where needed). Then I know for sure when it gets cold again, as rare as that is here, that I'm not leaving anything on the table.

Over the last year or so I've been making mental notes of some of the bullshit the transmission does, and I finally wrote the tune to the transmission friday evening. As far as I'm concerned, I NAILED it. No more goofy slip-n-shifts, no more putting my foot to the floor at 35 and not having it shift into first like it should, no more 1/2 second long shifts, it just goes.

I had a 200 mile long ride home today, 55* IATs, 0-60 I couldn't clock, but 80-100 took 2-1/2 seconds and 80-120 took 6. :eek: not bad for a 4800lb truck with a full gas tank, another 300lbs of vacation stuff, tools, and fishing gear in it. A dead OEM battery in the back too :doh2: That is a very mild tune, still have 20 to 25% shift torque reduction (down from 30-35, stock) and the max timing is maybe 2 degrees more than stock where it counts. The extra little bit of timing really wakes this truck up in the meat of 2nd and 3rd gears.

[1BadAction]

Indeed the TB SS is finicky to tune; much harder than a LS1 car. It took me countless logs and tunes to get it right, but well worth it in the end. I do want to get a WB bung welded in so I can monitor the AFR.

You got that right. The trans is relatively simple (to me anyways), but the weight and aerodynamics of the truck has a big effect on how far you can go with certain areas of the engine tune. I have a feeling after I get the WBo2 in it, and get the fuel where it needs to be, that I will need to make some changes to my spark tables, that's why I'm being ultra conservative with the changes right now. Hell, I noticed in my logs that the LTFTs are around -8 and -10% :shock:

[DrkPhx]

Like I eluded to in the previous post, in my own mind, I can't justify tuning in the heat of the summer. I would rather do it now and let the IAT and other heat based tables do their job in the summer (obviously tweak them where needed). Then I know for sure when it gets cold again, as rare as that is here, that I'm not leaving anything on the table.


FYI - When I dyno'd, I saw massive KR at WOT on the first run. In addition the IAT table (1st run was 86 degrees, the rest were at 81 degrees) was also pulling timing at the same time between 4000-4800 rpms. Total timing was 13 degrees at WOT! Once you drive it in hot weather where the temps soar you will notice a big difference between cold and hot temps because of how much spark those tables are pulling.

[1BadAction]

Damn, I knew it was bad, but not that bad. When its hot down here, these trucks are lucky if they are as fast as an I-6. LOL. I've already cut back some on the IAT table (I think it was removing 16 deg max, I cut it to 10, max), how much I need to change it from where its at remains to be seen. I'm contemplating capping off the spots in the maf plug where the IAT wires go and relocating a seperate sensor with a new plug to the intake, but I don't know, I may just tune it as it is.

[ScarabEpic22]

1BadAction, know this is an old thread, but would you mind posting your trans file up? Im running 50% TM and slightly quicker shift times and a little more line pressure and like it for now, but when Im going 30mph and punch it, I get a downshift to 2nd, pause, then down to first. My 02 drops straight from 4th to 1st, instantly.

[1BadAction]

The downshift/upshift tables on these are touchy. Let me get my laptop fired up and I'll post it.

[1BadAction]

lets see... this was changed 3/3, which should be my latest. keep in mind that I tow with this tune, and I like the factory shift patterns for the most part. I did do some work on the 2>1 and 1>2, which works awesome...

[ScarabEpic22]

I think when I can (read this summer) Im going to get my TCM setup a few ways. Have a drag/race tune that has 0 TM, fast shifts, high shift points. Normal DD tune and maybe a tow tune if I deem it necessary. Might have the DD and tow tunes identical but add a little TM back in to help the trans out.

Thanks for the file, Ill look at it tomorrow when Im fresh. Spent a few hours playing with my network tonight and Im almost delirious by now! Did get the 20s back on the SS today though, looks so much better with them than my 17" winter rims (regular TB LTZ rims)!:cucumber::rockon: