In need of some help.....

[Loudmouth LS1]

I could really use some help. I'm trying to help a buddy out and tune his car. It's a '98 WS6 with a 408, very large cam, AFR heads and a 6-speed. I've never had so much of a problem trying to tune a car! I can't even really get started too much on the autove tuning to dial in the ve table because I can barely drive the damn thing! When I first start it, it goes to idle fine and stays. I start to drive around and it'll be fine, maybe hang a slight bit above idle as I slow down to a stop, but come right down to idle when I get stopped. It will do this cold or on a warm start and be fine for about 5 minutes or so of driving, but then out of nowhere it will do the same slight hang, but then as I come to a stop it will dip below idle and try to die and even bringing the revs up doesn't make it catch, it will catch for like a couple seconds and then slowly start to die down again like it's losing airflow or something. I'm going to post up the last log and the tune that is in it, maybe you guys could help me out, because i've never had a problem like this before, but i've also never tuned a 6-speed with such a large cam, I have a 246/257 .632/.645 112+4 cam in my car with a glide and it's perfect, but I think the auto takes a lot of these problems away, so i've never had to figure this out before and it's got me a bit stumped. I messed with the throttle follower and cracker tables a little, but not really sure of how they work and don't know if i'm making the right adjustments. Any help is greatly appreciated!

[WHYTRYZ06]

1st of all, a six speed is easier to tune than an auto... IMO

2nd if u dont know how to adjust the throttle follower and cracker adjustments dont, ull prob make it worse...

this is the reason why i dont tune other peeps cars....

[mr.prick]

That VE table is a mess, you will not get RAFIG consistent with it like that.
The injector offsets cant match the huge IFR either,
I'd start with making sure all the injector settings are correct then try using LTFTs to shape the VE table or use some serious filtering on your logs.
OLSD on the street needs a lot of filtering and smoothing.

[WHYTRYZ06]

Mr prick,

i never smooth anything in OLSD, and ive never had any problems....why?

Personally i dont care what my VE looks like aslong as it gives me the AFR i want... is that wrong?

[mr.prick]

It doesn't have to be super smooth but it should not be spikey like that. http://smiliesftw.com/x/bartsimpson.gif (http://smiliesftw.com)
Idle tuning is much easier when fueling is consistent.
I don't see how it could be like that.
My 2¢

BTW what WBO2 are you using?
The PID is not in the log.

[Loudmouth LS1]

Its an ngk powerdex. I can't get much driving done to get the ve table dialed because of the idle problem and I can't use the interpolation file to help smooth it because I have to do the backup table since it's a '98 and don't have one for that. I never even had to use the throttle cracker or follower tables on my car, I don't know why this one is giving me such a problem. Any help you can give with good settings for those tables, I already got a lot of the low rpm bucking out with the follower table.

[ScarabEpic22]

Make him upgrade to a 99+ PCM so you can use a COS and get full VE resolution back.

Id say start off working on the idle, there's a good sticky on how to do RAFPN and RAFIG on here. Then once its driveable you can do the VE table.

[Loudmouth LS1]

Make him upgrade to a 99+ PCM so you can use a COS and get full VE resolution back.

Id say start off working on the idle, there's a good sticky on how to do RAFPN and RAFIG on here. Then once its driveable you can do the VE table.


That's exactly what I'm trying to do, which is why I was trying to get some help with those tables.

[ScarabEpic22]

Have you read this thread?

Idle tuning LS1 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=4661)