E38 / E67 VATS disable guide

[GMPX]

Hi all,

Seems to be a number of people having problems with VATS on the E38, it's getting too confusing to keep track of all the different threads so I feel it's time to make a new thread that will become a sticky for future reference.

So far we have people saying they can apply the VATS patch and the engine will fire right up. Others, no matter what they do the engine will not fire.

I would like to get a quick summary from people that have got an E38 (or E67) running outside of a GM platform to post up what they have done (aside from the VATS patch). Did you need to put a relay on the starter output? Was it a manual or auto program? Things like that.

Once we have some definitive answers I'll edit the thread and make this a sticky.

Cheers,
Ross

[ScarabEpic22]

Ross, maybe add to your original post what OS they're running too? That seems to make a difference...

(Feel free to delete this)

[gmh308]

12607218 - VATS patch only required (OS default is VATS Type 3)
12612381 - VATS patch only required (OS default is VATS Type 2)
12619078 - VATS patch only required (OS default is VATS Type 2)
12624402 - VATS patch only required (OS default is VATS Type 2)
12614088 - VATS patch + VATS Type 2 + Crank Relay current (added 3/23)
12617631 - VATS patch + VATS Type 2 + Crank Relay current
12628990 - VATS patch + VATS Type 2 + Crank Relay current (depends on platform OS is used on - some do not require crank relay current).

:)

[Redline Motorsports]

Ross,

Can you better explain what happens when the VATS patch is applied?

HT

[GMPX]

Sure, the ECM goes through many routines to determine if the vehicle can start or not. We still allow the ECM to try to figure out if it's ok to start, however, where it reaches the decision point of start ok or no start we simply force both options to start ok.
So even if the ECM has determined the engine cannot run when it goes to disable the spark and fuel it is forced back to the ok to start condition.
Well, that is the theory behind it anyway, I am getting the feeling that as the years progress there might be other new checks the ECM performs that we might not be bypassing. Look at the summary by OS from gmh308.

Cheers,
Ross

[gmh308]

Added 12614088.

[GMPX]

The ones that you listed as 'start on second key on', is this just the initial start after applying the patch and flashing or is this for every start afterwards?

[gmh308]

The ones that you listed as 'start on second key on', is this just the initial start after applying the patch and flashing or is this for every start afterwards?

Just ran these through again and they start first key on. :shock: That was with a warm engine and stoich set at 9.8 for ethanol. Maybe it was a cold start fueling issue in the past that just looked like no start initially. And it was only on cold boot/flash that they kicked on second key on. Subsequent starts AOK. Will try the cold start tomorrow if time.

[gmh308]

12607218 - VATS patch only required (OS default is VATS Type 3)
12612381 - VATS patch only required (OS default is VATS Type 2)
12619078 - VATS patch only required (OS default is VATS Type 2) See Note
12624402 - VATS patch only required (OS default is VATS Type 2)
12614088 - VATS patch + VATS Type 2 + Crank Relay current (added 3/23)
12617631 - VATS patch + VATS Type 2 + Crank Relay current
12628990 - VATS patch + VATS Type 2 + Crank Relay current

:)

Note:

12619078 - depends on what vehicle the overall calibration is for. Some require crank relay current (Chev Truck), some dont (G8/VE/Middle East Chev).

[VEGASROBBI]

As a side note; I just installed a 2009 Silverado 5.3 in a Jeep JK. I was fortunate to have got the engine compartment fuse block with all the relay's and fuses.

I applied the Vats patch and powered the starter relay trigger as the ECM does - no start, code P0615.

I simply left the Chevy starter relay in place and powered the starter solinoid from the Jeep starter relay and it starts every time. It appears the ECM monitoring of the starter relay trigger must remain unaltered.

[GMPX]

Thanks Vegasrobbi, we have been looking in to the starter thing, mainly to kill it off.

[GAMEOVER]

I'm going to be doing a motor swap & standalone harness in about (2-3 weeks) using a 2008 6.2 Escalade motor w/E38 hopefully the Vats disable will go good...:shock:

[gmh308]

As a side note; I just installed a 2009 Silverado 5.3 in a Jeep JK. I was fortunate to have got the engine compartment fuse block with all the relay's and fuses.

I applied the Vats patch and powered the starter relay trigger as the ECM does - no start, code P0615.

I simply left the Chevy starter relay in place and powered the starter solinoid from the Jeep starter relay and it starts every time. It appears the ECM monitoring of the starter relay trigger must remain unaltered.

Yes the start command is sent via CAN to the ECM from the BCM which works with IP, Theft Deterent Module, key, ECM, etc etc to get past the security steps. The ECM will never operate a starter via the ECM connected start relay without all these other modules in and working correctly.

[VEGASROBBI]

Yes the start command is sent via CAN to the ECM from the BCM which works with IP, Theft Deterent Module, key, ECM, etc etc to get past the security steps. The ECM will never operate a starter via the ECM connected start relay without all these other modules in and working correctly.

Correct, it's apparent the ECM will not iniatiate the start command; it is easy to connect an external starter relay. The interesting part is the original starter relay, or a resistor which simulates the starter relay trigger, must remain on the starter enable circut for the ECM to allow the engine to run. This was my problem on two E38 5.3's, lets hope this routine can be programed out.

[gmh308]

Correct, it's apparent the ECM will not iniatiate the start command; it is easy to connect an external starter relay. The interesting part is the original starter relay, or a resistor which simulates the starter relay trigger, must remain on the starter enable circut for the ECM to allow the engine to run. This was my problem on two E38 5.3's, lets hope this routine can be programed out.

It can :). Even without a full flash. :)

[MSURacing]

It can :). Even without a full flash. :)

Tell us more oh master!!!

[GAMEOVER]

Please do tell....:D

[GMPX]

Or better yet, post up a .cax for people :)

[gmh308]

Or better yet, post up a .cax for people :)

When I find it I will. There seems to be an option in the system segment, just dont know where it is and havent had time to track it down. Maybe next week. This is needle in a haystack stuff as you know Ross...especially without the right kind of info :) :) :).

[GMPX]

So from that I assume you've only been told it can be done but as yet the theory isn't proven?

[gmh308]

So from that I assume you've only been told it can be done but as yet the theory isn't proven?

I know it can be done as I have used two different segments from one OS and one starts without needing the starter relay and one needs it. :) Just need to narrow down exactly where it is.

[GMPX]

ah ok, thanks.

[hotrod]

I have some questions. I and working with a 08 5.3 truck motor in a 59 Vette with E38 ECM
OS #12617631 Now it will start but then die.
I have done the patch on VATS Type 2
How do i go about wiring in the Crank Relay Current. Thats what i don't understand.

(VATS patch + VATS Type 2 + Crank Relay current ?? )

[Taz]

Hello hotrod,

Given that the engine starts currently (but won’t stay running), try using the following settings:

G1204 – Yes
G1205 – Yes
G1206 – No
G1208 – Disabled
G1209 – No
G1210 – Type 2
G1211 – Yes
G1213 – Yes
G1214 – 3
G1215 – 600
G1216 – Yes
G1217 – 15.00
G1219 – Disabled
G1220 – Not used


Regards,
Taz

[hotrod]

Trying it now. . .

Thanks you, i'll post back with results.

[GMPX]

As Taz mentioned above, we released a cal update to fix the starter relay issue. Just change G1220 to "Not Used". This seemed to only be causing issues on 2008+ OS's

[hotrod]

Did everything above, still wont stay running. It will fire run for 2 seconds or so then die. Still sounds like the VATS is on to me. I dont get it.
Attached is the current tune i have in it.

Let me know if i have something wrong..

[Taz]

The VATS patch requires a “full flash” of the ECM. After that, you can use “calibration only” flashes for tuning changes.

Check your parameters again, and try a full flash. Will take a look at your tune shortly …


Regards,
Taz

[hotrod]

I did do a full reflash. Umm... It says i have applied it.

I suppose i could try to do another full flash tonight. See what happens.

[Taz]

Hello Hotrod,

Try the full flash again. Tune looks OK … if the full flash doesn’t resolve the issue … this should not make any difference with an automatic transmission, but try setting:

G1213 to “No” (clutch depress to crank)

Gen III guy – not a Gen IV expert. A lot of what little Gen IV VATS knowledge I have, comes from reading Ian’s (gmh308) posts.


Regards,
Taz

[hotrod]

Thanks Taz for all the help. I'll try a full flash again later tonight and see what happens.

I'm a Gen III guy as well, i've done a handfull of E38's in stock cars but this is my first conversion. Didn't think disabling VATS would be such a pain! lol

I'll let you know how it goes tonight.

Thanks again!
Brad

[VEGASROBBI]

If the full flash fails, try grounding the "Starter Relay Control" wire through an 80 ohm resistor or the trigger of a bosch relay. On an 08' it should be(IM guessing cause I don't know the exact app.) pin 52 Connector X1, yellow/black wire.

[GAMEOVER]

I had so much trouble disabling Vats that I did the unthinkable and it was a piece of cake....

[joecar]

I had so much trouble disabling Vats that I did the unthinkable and it was a piece of cake....What did you do...?

[69camaro5speed]

I had a hard time to but didnt do the unthinkable just took 3 hrs of trying differant setting,now after a reflash it dies up to 3 times then keeps runing and will restart every time if I dont reflash it.

[GAMEOVER]

What did you do...?

XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX...:music_whistling_1:

Edit: GMPX
Sorry Gameover, you can't give people the impression our VATS disable doesn't work and the only solution is to do it via other products, I know there was issues with the starter relay causing problems but that has been confirmed fixed on quite a number of year models.
Everyone, be sure to check your DTC's too, the ECM will tell you why it won't let the engine start!

[gmh308]

I had a hard time to but didnt do the unthinkable just took 3 hrs of trying differant setting,now after a reflash it dies up to 3 times then keeps runing and will restart every time if I dont reflash it.

What do you mean here?

If it's what I am thinking you mean, that behaviour is not uncommon when disabling VATs and after a flash. Sometimes they kick immediately, sometimes takes a couple shots. May be something to do with the start up fueling. Never bothered to get to the bottom of it, but regardless of VATs method it seems to pop up from time to time. VATs disable is very reliable, but different ECM's do exhibit odd behavior at times. But it may be a coincidence.

[69camaro5speed]

I am using my e-38 for engine dynoing our 58x stuff,I have run about 12 engines with it in sd using our dyno starter (not sure about the starter thing guys are talking about) and virtual ve tuning (efilive rocks)this is the operating system i am using 12622142 and the setting that works for me,I did the patch and ever thing full flash
LABELS VATS Enable
Parameters Value
{G1204} VATS Enable No
{G1205} VATS Auto learn Enable Yes
{G1206} VATS Required To Run No
{G1208} VATS Fail Diagnostic Disabled
{G1209} VATS Mode No
{G1210} VATS Type Type 3
{G1211} Remote Start Allowed Yes
{G1214} Relearn Count 1.000000 Counts
{G1215} Relearn Timer 1.000000 Seconds
{G1216} Theft Relearn Password Yes, some times it starts right up,but most of time 3 small tryes,after that it runs it starts perfict every time (like it does a quick relearn),doing a ls3 2010 camaro package next day or so looking forward to trying my new map for auto tune ross showed me at pri ( I was thinking it was more complicated then that)
IT was nice seeing some faces with names at pri,wow I dont know how they keep from going crazy trying to figure out all this but very thankfull they work so hard at it

[GMPX]

If I recall it was the 2009+ OS's that would shut off the injectors if the starter relay was not connected, when we added the cal to change the starter relay type it fixed that issue.
I could see a more positive look in your eyes at the end of your mini Virtual VE table training session at PRI, mission accomplished, that alone justified your airfares :grin:

[hotrod]

Ok, going out tonight to try a full reflash again.

Now my next question. Right now when i open the tune file, the file for the operating system patches does not come up?? It was yesterday.. lol I've done everything from closing and reopening to restarting. Still wont come up now.. Ugh! Any idea's?

[gmh308]

The V2 needs to be connected. :) The software looks for the V2 when the app starts up.

[hotrod]

Got it! Thank you. I did not know that. :grin:

[E67boostquest]

Why would people want to disable VATS, if someone were to be using the PCM in a different Chassis or something?

[GAMEOVER]

Why would people want to disable VATS, if someone were to be using the PCM in a different Chassis or something?

Yes, using the motor/trans, wiring & ECM in a different chassis...

[E67boostquest]

Oh ok, I figured you all weren't into getting your crap stolen. LOL

[VEGASROBBI]

I am on my third 07'-09 5.3 Silverado engine conversion into a different chassis. All three required the starter enable wire mod to run. The first one I did in a Toyota 4x4 several years ago is using a 50 ohm 10 watt resistor (Radio Shack # 271-0133 $1.99 for 2). Simply grounding the wire will enable it to start also, but I didn't feel fuzzy inside. The second and third are using the stock relay box. Interestingly if I tap into the stock relay with a crank signal - no start; had to run an external starter relay and leave the original relay untouched. IM guessing GM does not want someone bypassing the start sequence from the BCM/anti theft system.

Now armed with G1220 I thought it would be cleaner and simpler to do away with the mod/wiring so I went back to the 07' LH6 to see what would happen. First I disconnected the resistor to verify no start - and no start. I changed G1220 from "+ signal" to "not used", no other changes. Flashed in the new cal. (BTW thank you for BBF) and ...no start. I reconnected the resistor and....start. I made at least ten crank attempts on each configuration.

Then I used the settings posted earlier in this thread with the resistor disconnected and....no start. I connected the resistor with those settings and...no start.

So that is as far as I got, I will try other settings when I can, and next week I will have access to the 09' engine I put in a Wrangler with the stock relay box and an external starter relay. All three engines are 5.3's with different OS's.

[Chevy366]

Can someone do a step by step of this ?
Like DL patch from here , apply patch how , ground which wire from PCM or starter .
Kind of broken information , fragmented , if you know what I mean .
Thanks .

[iViLe]

I have a #12612384 e38 running #12617631 2008 corvette ls3 tune. I did the vats patch and turned off vats in the vats settings section etc..., but could only get it to fire for 2 seconds. So I did the starter relay mod. It fires up fine after the second crank. I just need to somehow add a pin and wire into the x1 connector.

Starter relay mod is: Find pin 52 on the X1 connector. run a wire from it to the trigger connector on a relay( I used a narva relay with a built in resistor) and then the ground pin goes to ground on the chassis. Pretty simple.

http://bur.st/~ivile/gemini-wagon/153022412-pin52.GIF

[hotrod]

update on my situation. I'm working with an 08 ECM. I did the patch and turned G1220 to off. It would start then die. Sounded like VATS.. Well turns out the customer forgot to plug a hole in the back of the intake and i over looked it. Big vac leak. Pluged it up and she fire right up, purrrrs like a kitten. :D

Thanks for all the help though guys, learned alot for the next time i get into one. :)

[gmh308]

update on my situation. I'm working with an 08 ECM. I did the patch and turned G1220 to off. It would start then die. Sounded like VATS.. Well turns out the customer forgot to plug a hole in the back of the intake and i over looked it. Big vac leak. Pluged it up and she fire right up, purrrrs like a kitten. :D

Thanks for all the help though guys, learned alot for the next time i get into one. :)

Thanks for coming back and fronting with the real problem. Many dont :).

[joecar]

+1 thanks for posting back with the real problem/solution. :cheers:

[hotrod]

No problem guys :thumb_yello:

Thanks again for all the help.

[finishline]

Thought I would share my findings with you guys. I’m running the 12614088 OS with a 6.2 from a GMC Denali that was transplanted into a Street Rod. I did everything this thread listed to do. Without the VATS patch the engine would turn over but no spark and no injector pulse. After the VATS patch we got spark but still no injector pulse. We had to apply a 100 Ohm resistor to pin 52 on the X1 connector to get her to fire up. And yes we tried the G1220 and it made no difference. Hope this helps someone else. This thread was a life saver for us.

[GAMEOVER]

Thought I would share my findings with you guys. I’m running the 12614088 OS with a 6.2 from a GMC Denali that was transplanted into a Street Rod. I did everything this thread listed to do. Without the VATS patch the engine would turn over but no spark and no injector pulse. After the VATS patch we got spark but still no injector pulse. We had to apply a 100 Ohm resistor to pin 52 on the X1 connector to get her to fire up. And yes we tried the G1220 and it made no difference. Hope this helps someone else. This thread was a life saver for us.

You just added a 100 ohm resistor to the wire on pin #52? Thats it?

[finishline]

You just added a 100 ohm resistor to the wire on pin #52? Thats it?

Yep that's it. 100 ohm 1 watt resistor, one end to the pin 52, one end to a good ground point on the frame.

[VEGASROBBI]

If the full flash fails, try grounding the "Starter Relay Control" wire through an 80 ohm resistor or the trigger of a bosch relay. On an 08' it should be(IM guessing cause I don't know the exact app.) pin 52 Connector X1, yellow/black wire.

You guys make me Rafff..:) Good job finishline

I had the chance to change G1220 on the Jeep with the 09' 5.3 and it worked; don't need the resistor or relay anymore.

Still no go on the 07' with the ******4088 OS.

[GAMEOVER]

I just did 2 E38 Truck OS (2007 5.3ltr 12605898) (2008 6.0ltr 12617631) this week and didn't need starter relay or resisitor...Both fired up on first try...:D

[Fixuntilbroke]

Just got efi live and got it hooked up to my harness, just chose disable on vats but i guess didnt apply patch cause i dont know where you get it or really what its about, can anyone help? E 37

[Fixuntilbroke]

i turned everything off i could find in tuning options and whatnot then did total reflash but dont see anything about vats patch in v8 or 7.5, v8 doesnt really do anything but flash and read for me am i messing something up?

[joecar]

That is correct...

V7 software does the following:
- scanner,
- logger,
- calibration editor,
- ECM flash reader/writer.

V8 software does the following:
- ECM flash reader/writer,
- V2 setup/options configurer.

[joecar]

I'm not sure, but I think the VATS patch would be found in the tunetool, go View->Show Calibration Window and goto the Upgrade OS tab, if the patch is available it should be listed there.

[ someone who knows E37's might want to clarify/correct what I just said :) ]

[joecar]

Fixuntilbroke, welcome to the forum :cheers:

[Fixuntilbroke]

Thanks joecar, i just looked it says does not support o/s upgrades you may have to upgrade entire os but theres no full os listed or anything for that matter.

[Taz]

Have never worked with an E37. The VATS patch is usually part of the Operating System patches - visible only when the V2 is connected to the Laptop (just like electric throttle tables). Usually in the ECM>engine>operating system patch folder - typically near the bottom of the column.

Don't have access to tuning software currently ...


Regards,
Taz

[joecar]

...
ECM>engine>operating system patch
...
Ah, when V2 is present, I understand, thanks :)

[Fixuntilbroke]

Ok i used the tool to update software and the patch showed up
i applied patch and did full flash, got it running mind you i still have it hooked up to EVERYTHING steering column all computers stock fuse box etc, It wouldnt start with switch or anything, so i got to checking, the relay for run/crank had no power. So fused a wire at 10a and applied it to where power should exit relay, motor starts and runs fine like this, so i thought awesome! I started trying to disconnect crap to see what i can get by without seeins how i dont have any schematic. i unhooked vats computer or bcm whatever the interior black box is, nothing, anyway i was trying unplugging crap and trying to start. i got good noises with one of the wire block disconnected from bcu we'll call it by noises i mean clicking and whining of sensors relays etc. At that point in time i disconnected wires going to transponder reader on ignition but it wouldnt start so i applied power to starter wire, it started. but ran poorly and quit. so i was looking at my calibrations and i noticed that vats had to be in mode 2 or 3 to disable despite patch and all other settings off, so i changed it and went to flash it.
Nothing, no reponse i connected my other obd2 scanner no response although it powers up device, no signal. So i reconnected everything still nothing tried a hundred different re powers leave battery disconnected for awhile, and no response is all i get. At one point in time cluster flashed "reduced engine power" followed by "engine disabled" so i think ive triggered vats and am up shit creek. help

sorry just wanted to get all information out so you experieced guys dont have to coax one detail at a time out of me

[Fixuntilbroke]

:Throwup:

[GMPX]

What is this engine in?

[Taz]

... so i think ive triggered vats ...

Post your tune ... myself and / or other Forum members will take a look.


Regards,
Taz

[Fixuntilbroke]

i cant seem to figure out how to post file, tried upload image but it doesnt like the format. Its out of an 08 cobalt 2.2l mt Engine installed in sand rail, right now i have entire system pulled out of car, hooked up to motor and laying on garage floor, pedals bcu column etc, had it working this way, thought i had vats disabled but as i started disconnecting things like transponder reader i mustve done something cause i get no communication through obd2 port.

[Fixuntilbroke]

the tune has vats patch applied, just was never changed to type 2 and ive lost communication

[Fixuntilbroke]

12699

[Fixuntilbroke]

HA basic uploader works

[Taz]

... I started trying to disconnect crap to see what i can get by without seeins how i dont have any schematic ...

Trying a swap like this without GM service manuals will waste a lot of your time, and the time of others answering questions needlessly. The GMLAN (Can Bus) is linked or daisy chained throughout all of the onboard modules - ECM / BCM / TCM / EBCM etc. If you remove or disconnect a module the communication pathway is interrupted. You will need to bridge the High Speed GMLAN Serial Data Bus +, and High Speed GMLAN Serial Data Bus -, to restore communications.

If communications are interrupted the engine won't start.

With a standalone wiring harness the GMLAN need only be routed between the DLC and ECM with a manual transmission, or DLC, ECM, and TCM with an automatic transmission.

Attached is your tune with some very minor changes.


Regards,
Taz

[Fixuntilbroke]

Noob walk of shame, got the tune, thanks taz i was trying to flash the vats changed to mode 2 when i realized problem taz. Dont know what/if you changed anything else. Anyway the real problem was i forgot to hook up signal for eps (electric power steering) which as i was taking apart harness noticed lan wires deadhead there and come out a different color, so not hooked up it effectively breaks lan circuit. New tune flashed, all is well now back to eliminating wires.

[MarkR8]

I have a question for the masses....

Installed a replacement ECU, couldn't get tech 2 to connect but flashed full OS and tune with EFILive and fit to native car that requires vats.
Can turn vats off and start etc but can't perform a relearn? I have tried with V7.5 and through DVT. Car is Holden commodore VE and ECU is E38 and I can only seem to replace ECUs if vats is disabled or unless relearn is done with tech 2 with sps approval.

While I realise the ECU needs to be programmed with tech 2 first, Will EFILive relearn or relink vats if the correct OS and tune is already on the ECU i.e 2nd hand replacement ECU sourced from wreck which is identical?
There isn't much info to guide you when you attempt to do a relearn/relink, what key cycles etc are required if any and is there a confirmation supposed to let you know if the relearn succeeded?

Hopefully others need to know this, perhaps anyone who has worked on mail order tunes will have an answer. I suspect vats off is the only answer without tech 2 but want to confirm.

Thanks,

Mark

[scolds]

ok guys i know this has been covered very well but we have been trying to get this to work and have had no luck. tune is attached please tell me i just am not doing something right.

just a little history with this so it may help. we are trying to install this ecm into a 10 vette we know that it is a truck tune. this is all just an experment as we are looking to be able to run the vette on flexfuel. the ecm is know to be good as if we install the orig OS it starts right up. once we change it over to the truck and disable the VATS the vette will not even try to fire. now it is a push button start would this have anythig to do with it. are we just chasing our tails trying to make this work. any info is greatly appreciated we believe it should work but vats is not allowing it and not sure why other than the obvious. thanks for the help

[Taz]

The ignition key / start button are connected to the BCM. The BCM communicates with the ECM over the CanBus network to allow the engine start.

Why not just enable / tune for Flex Fuel use in the original Corvette ECM ?

[tomsgarage]

New to tuning, I have a E38 with 6.2L L92 I have tried all fix information posted here and can not seem to get around VATS. I have 12614088 OS with Patch applied full reflash more than once and have even put the relays in circuit for starter and ignition circuit. Please advise. This is set up on my Superflow engine Dyno and ready to run if I could only fix VATS, sets code P0633. I have TIS and Tech II so I could install another OS if needed.
Thank You
Tom

[engimuneer]

Sorry to hijack the thread, we'll make another one to get further with the problem solving.
Taz - that was the first thing we tried, unfortunately, after filling with 5 gallons and having FFV on, we did not get it to even attempt to relearn the fuel.

[Taz]

New to tuning, I have a E38 with 6.2L L92 I have tried all fix information posted here and can not seem to get around VATS. I have 12614088 OS with Patch applied full reflash more than once and have even put the relays in circuit for starter and ignition circuit. Please advise. This is set up on my Superflow engine Dyno and ready to run if I could only fix VATS, sets code P0633. I have TIS and Tech II so I could install another OS if needed.
Thank You
Tom

Post your tune ... will take a look

[Taz]

Sorry to hijack the thread, we'll make another one to get further with the problem solving.
Taz - that was the first thing we tried, unfortunately, after filling with 5 gallons and having FFV on, we did not get it to even attempt to relearn the fuel.

Sorry about that ... no Flex Fuel available here ... forget sometimes that it may require a COS ... EFILive has a Custom OS Upgrade available for the 2010 Corvette E38 OS.

[tomsgarage]

Here it is

[Taz]

Try this one ... remember to Full Flash it (OS and Calibration flash).


EDIT: fixed DTC and reposted the tune

[tomsgarage]

Try this one ... remember to Full Flash it (OS and Calibration flash).

And it works!!!, what did I miss?Oh and first should have been Thank You

[Taz]

I just reposted it with the DTC fixed ... forgot to do this initially. Try the one that I reposted (rework 2).

[Taz]

... what did I miss? ...

Nothing really ... just a matter of understanding how the EFILive VATS Patch works ... some parameters get changed, some do not.

[Yellow05C6]

I notice that all the successful reports are with 2008 and older OS'. I'm working on a 2010 Camaro engine/E38 into a 57 Chevy. It uses OS 12637084. I've applied the VATs patch and loaded these parameters. I am days from trying to starting. Has anyone successfully used the 12637084 OS and did they need the resistor to simulate the starter relay?
G1204:Yes
G1205:Yes
G1206:No
G1208:Disabled
G1209:No
G1210:Type 2
G1211:Yes
G1213:No
G1214:1
G1215:1
G1215:1
G1216:Yes
G1217:15
G1219:Disabled
G1220:Not Used

[nmarkiw]

I too am having the run for 2 seconds problem on a remote customer vehicle. 2011 Suburban 5.3L/6L80 swap into LandRover. Speartech harness, 12639835 OS, 12639900 cal.
12639835.calz calibration file v7.59. Has this been programmed out or do we still need to install the resistor?

[Yellow05C6]

Since I made the 2010 LS3 into a 57 Chevy post, the car has started. I was not present so I do not have exact details. The car has no exhaust so it was only allowed to run for a few seconds before shut off. There were several (successful) restarts, each for only a few seconds. The last start the engine was allowed to run for about a minute. No known issues. The file used the settings as noted above. NO 100 ohm resistor. Again: OS 12637084, Cal 12637083 and 12637084.calz. It is using a Hot Muscle Wiring harness.

[GMPX]

I don't know the exact year GM put in the Starter Relay check, but G1220 controls this, setting it to 'not used' will allow the engine to run with no starter relay load (resistor) on the ECM.....

G1220
Defines the type of starter relay fitted to the engine.
** WARNING ** DO NOT ALTER THIS SETTING ON A FACTORY VEHICLE, only change this setting for engine conversions.
And certainly NEVER set it to "Not Used" on a factory car, that setting should only be used on engine conversions when the starter relay is not controlled by the ECM.

Only the following values may be entered into this table:
- Apply to Ground
- Apply to 12V
- Not Used

Then

G1210
Selects the Anti Theft System used on the vehicle.
There is no defined VATS disable in this ECM, to disable VATS you must select either Type 2 or Type 3 from this list and apply the VATS patch to the operating system.

See Also: {B9903} "Disable VATS Patch"

Only the following values may be entered into this table:
- Type 1
- Type 2
- Type 3

And finally

B9903
Apply software update to disable the Vehicle Anti-Theft System.
After applying this patch you must perform a 'Full Flash' of the ECM.

[nmarkiw]

I too am having the run for 2 seconds problem on a remote customer vehicle. 2011 Suburban 5.3L/6L80 swap into LandRover. Speartech harness, 12639835 OS, 12639900 cal.
12639835.calz calibration file v7.59. Has this been programmed out or do we still need to install the resistor?

Turned out to be a problem with the MAF. Unplugged it and it idles fine. I have done one more since then without issues. Thanks for the help.

[kangsta]

I have a question for the masses....

Installed a replacement ECU, couldn't get tech 2 to connect but flashed full OS and tune with EFILive and fit to native car that requires vats.
Can turn vats off and start etc but can't perform a relearn? I have tried with V7.5 and through DVT. Car is Holden commodore VE and ECU is E38 and I can only seem to replace ECUs if vats is disabled or unless relearn is done with tech 2 with sps approval.

While I realise the ECU needs to be programmed with tech 2 first, Will EFILive relearn or relink vats if the correct OS and tune is already on the ECU i.e 2nd hand replacement ECU sourced from wreck which is identical?
There isn't much info to guide you when you attempt to do a relearn/relink, what key cycles etc are required if any and is there a confirmation supposed to let you know if the relearn succeeded?

Hopefully others need to know this, perhaps anyone who has worked on mail order tunes will have an answer. I suspect vats off is the only answer without tech 2 but want to confirm.

Thanks,

Mark

Did you ever get it relinked?

[GMPX]

If the ECM is brand new never been in a car then the link will work, if it has come out of another car then I don't know the procedure to un-marry it so it will re-link in another car. I suspect there must be a unique password for each ECM as TIS approval requires the entry of the unique number that is assigned to each car. You could try to adjust the relearn timer and counter, that is what that is there for so an ECM can self learn in 30mins without TIS approval (once initialised by the relink request).

[kangsta]

thanks Ross, I think I may have misinterpreted how the self learn works. Just to confirm

1) Initialise Relink using the scan tool (with key on, engine off)
2) perform key on, wait, key off as per the relearn timer and counter cals.
3) key off, then start (should be linked now)

[MarkR8]

Did you ever get it relinked?

Yes, I have since been able to do it with EFILive and also through Tech 2.
If you follow the process to re link it woes work

[kangsta]

thanks mate. which process are you referring to? I've seen a few floating around.

Do you know if it matters if the ECM is locked?

[GMPX]

thanks Ross, I think I may have misinterpreted how the self learn works. Just to confirm

1) Initialise Relink using the scan tool (with key on, engine off)
2) perform key on, wait, key off as per the relearn timer and counter cals.
3) key off, then start (should be linked now)
Yes correct, that is pretty much what GM service spells out as the procedure. You have the timer (set to 10mins stock) then the number of timer countdowns that must be done (set to 3 stock), so 3 x 10 = 30min relearn with key off after each 10min timer ends.

If the ECM is locked then it won't work as the initiate process must first unlock the ECM.

[MarkR8]

I did it as described by Ross.
If the ECU is locked I think you would best reinstall the calibration with tech 2 and then link it either way but while you have tech 2 connected you may as well do it that way

[j4f]

I have been trying to disable Vats on a 2012 OS12654239
I have done the VATS patch and the full reflash, there are many different suggestions on settings and I have tried everything I could come up with. I have also tried the starter relay resistor and a dummy relay.
It still starts and runs for 2 seconds or so and dies
Could someone look at this and tell me how to disable the VATS on this OS

Thanks

[Yellow05C6]

Not sure it will help; but, on a 2012 OS12653674, this works with out a starter resistor:
G1204 No
G1205 No
G1206 No
G1209 No
G1210 Type 2
G1211 Yes
G1214 3
G1215 1
G1216 No
G1213 No

Remember that your V2 MUST be connected to your laptop BEFORE you open your tune file to do a full flash. Otherwise even if the file recognizes the VATS patch it will not be applied during the flash. I'd also wait until after the tune file is opened before connecting the V2 to the OBD connector.

You should also apply the cooling fan patch to enable fan operation at lower temps.

[j4f]

Thanks for the reply.
Same thing starts and dies after a couple seconds.
Anything else?
Thanks

[Yellow05C6]

I'm rarely around when the cars are started (the shop I'm working with is about 300 miles away). As I understand it, this process is to teach the ECM a new security password. G1214 has to do with the number of "on" cycles without engaging the starter. G1215 is about how many seconds the ignition has to be on (w/o engaging the starter) for the events to count. So I believe what the shop guys do is turn the ignition on (no starter) for about 1 second, then off for a few seconds. Then repeat that cycle 2 more times. On the fourth "on", start the car. Again, as I understand it, those on/off cycles alert the ECM that there is a new security password coming. In this case, on the 4th attempt the ECM receives a "blank" security password and thus retains a blank password. Your file above had the relearn timer set to 600 seconds (10 minutes).

[VEGASROBBI]

I did a compare to an OS I have here and the only security difference I see is G1204 and 1213 are set to yes on my tune. If not try this not tune, it works for me:

19432

[j4f]

Thanks Yellow using this procedure it started.
well now I just need to install the engine and hope it still works

Thanks

[j4f]

Thanks Vegasrobbi If I have any more problems I will try this OS

[Naf]

Hi, my name is Naf, and i am a sufferer of VATS.

My engine will crank, i have ignition, i have fuel pressure, but no Injector control.

I have a factory car where i swapped the older PCM for the newer ECM. Everything worked till i used a dummy key.

I did everything mentioned in this post minus the never use on G1220. For i have a factory car with a transplanted engine/ECM.

What can i do to gain my injector control again?

[Yellow05C6]

Naf,

[Yellow05C6]

Naf,

[Yellow05C6]

My operator error....more info would be helpful. You say you swapped an older factory ECM for a newer ECM. The file you attached is for a 58 tooth ECM is a CTS-V. What "older" ECM used a 58 tooth wheel? Can you provide the old file? Your file has CAN and ABS comms enabled. Are you sure the newer ECM uses the same protocol for those links? Or have you disabled them? Try setting 1208 to Enabled and 1210 to Type 2. You must have the V2 connected to the computer that has the new file on it before actually opening the new file. Use the right most full flash red arrow. A good practice is after the full flash, download the ECM and compare what you think you modified to what is actually in the ECM. Be sure to try 3 non-starts before starting.

[Naf]

My operator error....more info would be helpful. You say you swapped an older factory ECM for a newer ECM. The file you attached is for a 58 tooth ECM is a CTS-V. What "older" ECM used a 58 tooth wheel? Can you provide the old file? Your file has CAN and ABS comms enabled. Are you sure the newer ECM uses the same protocol for those links? Or have you disabled them? Try setting 1208 to Enabled and 1210 to Type 2. You must have the V2 connected to the computer that has the new file on it before actually opening the new file. Use the right most full flash red arrow. A good practice is after the full flash, download the ECM and compare what you think you modified to what is actually in the ECM. Be sure to try 3 non-starts before starting.

I swapped out all the older 24x and 1x components for the 58x and 4x components. So i have everything including the sensors that match up with the newer system.

I tried all combinations, and even tried to use Hptuners with no avail. I am going to have to wait for the 06 I/P harness which has the ECM and BCM communicating properly, afterwards the ECM should unlock its self and allow me to start the engine.

I know how to perform a full flash, i did it more than a few times, with my Patch upgrades...

[Yellow05C6]

Well you are over my head now. What you are doing is interesting and may become necessary for others in the future. Please post what you learn. What I'm observing is that these wonderful ECMs that enable great performance and allow engines to live 200K miles plus are becoming a key failure item. As newer cars become more CAN networked; we will come to the day that a valuable car will become yard art for lack of some computer. Not every ECM can be repaired because often repair components are out of production. That cycle will only increase in tempo as technology moves forward.

[DURAtotheMAX]

What I'm observing is that these wonderful ECMs that enable great performance and allow engines to live 200K miles plus are becoming a key failure item.

Since when??? Modern ECU's are incredibly reliable...at least GM's ECU's of the past ~15 years are generally very reliable. I cant speak for other manufacturers. Really the only time you see GM ECM failures are during botched reflashes. Hardware failures in normal operation are incredibly rare.

Key failure item? Please. The fact that LS1, E38, E67, T42, etc controllers can all be picked up for $100 or less at any junk yard should say something about their reliability and availability. If they were so "failure prone" like you state, they would certainly go for a helluva lot more than $100 on the used market. Not to mention the fact that GM generally uses the same controller across many vehicles, so its not like supply is going to dry up. Think about how many millions of LS1 PCM's there are out there, considering they were used in a dozen or so different vehicles over a production span of ~8 years.......

If something breaks on any late model GM engine, 10000 to 1 its a hard part or sensor failure...not the ECM itself.

Honestly, the only somewhat "rare" (IE most expensive/hardest to track down) late model GM ECM I can think of is the E60 LLY Duramax...because they only made that engine for a year and a half. Luckily they are reliable and dont fail often. Other than that, most GM ECM's/TCM's are plentiful and cheap.

[Yellow05C6]

I'm just saying.... I agree the later model ECMs are generally very reliable and were made in the millions. Sensors are even more common, often even across OEMs. So a sensor failure is far less likely to turn a car into yard art. Thus the ECM can be a key failure. Have you tried to find a ECM for a 92-93 Vette or Camaro? Granted they were not flash programmable. And they are old. But those cars still have too much value to become yard art because of one electronic component. What about the 1-2 year only E40? The number of those ECMs available is dropping. Yes the LS1+ ECMs were made in the millions. But I've seen driver failures in late model ECMs that were not related to a bad reflash. It would not be possible for the ECM remanufacturing industry to thrive unless ECMs are failing every day. I'm just saying it is not unreasonable to predict the future based on the past.

[GMPX]

I hear of injector output failures on E38's but it is usually caused by low impedance injectors being fitted and hoping they will work.
I think down the track we are more likely to see the Direct Injection ECM's failing with the high voltage and high currents they run.

Sadly for the ECM's like the E40 and E38 they are not repairable in many instances because they use custom output drivers and power supply circuits in 'flip chip' packages rendering any repairs impossible.

https://www.namics.co.jp/e/product/img/chipcoat01_main.gif

Cheers,
Ross

[Yellow05C6]

Sorry, I did not mean to stir up a controversy. I only wanted to encourage Nav to tell us how he fixes his problem. I agree the high voltages of DI will tax ECM components. That said I had an E40 fail because it lost CAN comms. I’ve seen two 411 injector drivers go bad just driving stock injectors. ECMs become unrepairable because as technology evolves, OEMs switch to faster, more powerful stuff. Component manufactures stop making the old stuff because demand falls off a cliff.
Mechanical things fail linearly because with every revolution, temp cycle, load cycle, etc. some finite wear happens. Not so with electronics, Google “electronics bathtub curve”. Electronics have high infant mortality; that is why your big flat screen TV came with a 90 day warrantee, so you pay the power bill to burn it in. Then electronics enters a second phase of near zero failures for a long period of time. So the extended warrantee is for when the TV is least likely to fail. At some point there is always a knee in the failure curve. Sometimes the new failure rate is gentle and sometimes it is dramatic; but it will always happen and it will always be accelerating with time. Electronics fail because of temperature, humidly, shock, and vibration. But other variables play like how clean was the clean room. A speck of dandruff can dramatically affect the life of electronics. Electronics can even fail just sitting on a salvage yard shelf. Just because these ECMs seem bullet proof now does not mean there is no knee. It is inevitable that these ECMs will begin to fail. The only question is when and how dramatic.

[joecar]

If you have the ECM removed from its original vehicle (e.g. on engine dyno), then remember to do the Remove VATS patch (connect FSV2 to laptop, open tunetool, look for red folder at end of engine section, enable the Remove VATS patch, do a full flash).

If you don't do this, engine does not start, you notice it gets no more fuel after the start of cranking... log the pid GM.VTD and you'll see it indicates fuel is disabled.

[Naf]

If you have the ECM removed from its original vehicle (e.g. on engine dyno), then remember to do the Remove VATS patch (connect FSV2 to laptop, open tunetool, look for red folder at end of engine section, enable the Remove VATS patch, do a full flash).

If you don't do this, engine does not start, you notice it gets no more fuel after the start of cranking... log the pid GM.VTD and you'll see it indicates fuel is disabled.

I have done the VATS removal with EFILive and HPTuners several times, and none of these devices unlocked my ECM, i am swappin out my transplanted harness for the original and will try and relink the BCM to the PCM. During which time i will send my ECM to a friends shop to have the VATS disabled again and verified that it works before spending eight hrs swappin the try it out again.

[joecar]

We also had to set the VATS parameters as follows:



{G1204} VATS Enable No
{G1205} VATS Auto learn Enable Yes
{G1206} VATS Required To Run No
{G1208} VATS Fail Diagnostic Disabled
{G1209} VATS Mode No
{G1210} VATS Type Type 3
{G1211} Remote Start Allowed Yes
{G1214} Relearn Count 1.000000 Counts
{G1215} Relearn Timer 1.000000 Seconds
{G1216} Theft Relearn Password Yes

[atnik]

Where do I get hold of the VATS patch for an E38? I've seen plenty of detail on threads of how to apply, but where can I load the file?

Nick.

[joecar]

Plug V2 into PC/laptop, then open the tune file, then patch shows up as table B9900 or higher (red folder at end of Engine section)..

[69camaro5speed]

It does work there is some tune setting if you're using sd tuning that needs adjusted also ,I have done a couple of them, one was at 3 shops before it was in my hands to get running so some times it more then turning off vats depending on your set up

[markemac]

2006 Cadillac 4.6L SC transplant into a sand buggy it needed the relay from pin 56 (start relay) to ignition or could have used a resistor. that was required to get the fuel injectors to have a signal, tried everything else in the thread. also tried switching G1220 to 12v and relay to gd and did not work.
serv 12607782, OS 12614654

[litreddevil]

ok guys I need some help I know I don't post much but I do read here a lot and it has gotten me to where I am now with tuning. However I am now at the point of pulling my hair out of my head. I have read every post on this thread 1 I don't c anyone using my OS #12636005 is what I have. I have a 2012 5.3 that I have installed in a jeep turns over but no start. no spark at all I have beat myself up trying everything under the sun y'all have posted and others have suggested. with no luck. any input is greatly appreciated.

[LastCall]

Can you post your tune file you are using?

[gixxer92]

A Quick update and an FYI since i didn't find the issue in the forum search...
I learned this past week that if your changing the OS, on top of disabling VATs, do each step separately.
I did both together and could not get VATs to disable no mater how many times I tried to re-flash the change after the first OS download, I kept getting the TDS P0633 and it wouldn't "learn" the password.
I then switched the OS to a 2010 calibration and then disabled VATs and re-downloaded, it worked fine.

[WSNPerformance]

21376

Ive been reading about this for a long time now and through a lot of frustration still no luck, no start. I have trouble shooted for almost two months now and still coming up short so here I am asking for help... Could someone please take a look and lmk know what im doing wrong thank you

[GMPX]

It's got to be something else, everything in your tune looks fine for allowing that engine to run in a conversion.

[WSNPerformance]

It's got to be something else, everything in your tune looks fine for allowing that engine to run in a conversion.

Thanks for looking GMPX

[WSNPerformance]

21394

Engine swap into an old nissan. Engine hasn't ran since it was rebuilt.

E38 computer 2009 OS compatible

11:1 compression

4.005" pistons

stock LS3 Camshaft

lz1 engine out of a truck, its 58x and has ls2 part number on the block, 243 heads etc. Had vvt, afm, deleted all that.

Custom stand alone harness brand new everything.

starter relay set to "not used" its also set up on a relay w/resistor just in case.

push button start, everything is on a relay. switched power for ignition etc. Brake switch on a relay.

grounds are good and solid. Two 4 ga chassis to engine grounds + grounds from the harness.

while cranking voltage goes down to about 10.8 is the lowest i've seen it, usually around 11 mostly. key on usually 13.4ish

LS2 intake manifold with ls2 33# injectors.

fuel pump is an aeromotive 355, -6AN to corvette fuel filter/regulator into the stock ls2 fuel rails. Pressure while cranking is 70psi

I'm getting spark and fuel. The engine almost starts, stumbles like its about to start and then immediately stops once it gets close to sounding like its starting..

Brand New : map sensor, O2 sensors, MAF IAT, ECT sensor, Cam sensor, Crank sensor, Oil pressure sensor.
runs great on brake cleaner.
Engine will not run, tried everything I could troubleshoot from searching, searching, searching, searching, and yes searching.... Some how still think its the VATS due to its behavior.
Tried all sorts of VATS parameter combinations w/ no luck. the full flash patch etc. in all types of orders. IE stock tune.. adjust vats parameters then apply patch then FULL reflash: No luck. IE stock tune apply vats patch, adjust parameters. : no luck. ETC.. I've done this with adjusted IFR : No luck. I've tried different OS' within my compatibility.. I've thought about trying an older OS' but I don't want to damage my ECM so I haven't yet. Should I use an older OS in the ECM?

I'm at the point where I'm ready to get a lignenfelter kit and convert to gen 3 since I have an ecm and harness at my shop already. OR I just may carb it.. I would like to not do either one of those because I don't want to spend anymore money on this thing. unless its getting tuned.

Could someone please take a look and maybe steer me into the right direction.. Everyone has told me how easy these motors are and I feel the opposite about them right about now..

EFI live is up to date. I've messed with PIDS, I'm getting rpm, etc.

Name it i've prob tried it... Thanks to anyone who takes their time to help or review.


UPDATE** sorry its taken me so long to come back to this thread.. anyways all it needed was more fuel when it was cranking and it fired right up.. I couldn't find anyone to help me tune it with efi live so I ended up switching to another brand I'd rather not say since i like efilive..

Hope this happening helped someone.. Just in case you are scowering this thread troubleshooting impatiently over and over.. the patch works. efi live works.

Thanks for all the help.

[The Alchemist]

If I recall it was the 2009+ OS's that would shut off the injectors if the starter relay was not connected, when we added the cal to change the starter relay type it fixed that issue.
I could see a more positive look in your eyes at the end of your mini Virtual VE table training session at PRI, mission accomplished, that alone justified your airfares :grin:

I'm just going through my first VATS delete using a E38 ecu stand alone and I have ignition but no injection while cranking.
Is it the G1220 setting on the factory "apply to 12 V" that causes this?
We're using a independent starting system.
Setting it to "Not used" will hopefully sort it.
I'm trying to sort this remotely you see so its a bit painful :)

thanks,
Mike in NZ

[LastCall]

Yes set that to not used and it should work.

[salim.sultan.3576]

21394

Engine swap into an old nissan. Engine hasn't ran since it was rebuilt.

E38 computer 2009 OS compatible

11:1 compression

4.005" pistons

stock LS3 Camshaft

lz1 engine out of a truck, its 58x and has ls2 part number on the block, 243 heads etc. Had vvt, afm, deleted all that.

Custom stand alone harness brand new everything.

starter relay set to "not used" its also set up on a relay w/resistor just in case.

push button start, everything is on a relay. switched power for ignition etc. Brake switch on a relay.

grounds are good and solid. Two 4 ga chassis to engine grounds + grounds from the harness.

while cranking voltage goes down to about 10.8 is the lowest i've seen it, usually around 11 mostly. key on usually 13.4ish

LS2 intake manifold with ls2 33# injectors.

fuel pump is an aeromotive 355, -6AN to corvette fuel filter/regulator into the stock ls2 fuel rails. Pressure while cranking is 70psi

I'm getting spark and fuel. The engine almost starts, stumbles like its about to start and then immediately stops once it gets close to sounding like its starting..

Brand New : map sensor, O2 sensors, MAF IAT, ECT sensor, Cam sensor, Crank sensor, Oil pressure sensor.
runs great on brake cleaner.
Engine will not run, tried everything I could troubleshoot from searching, searching, searching, searching, and yes searching.... Some how still think its the VATS due to its behavior.
Tried all sorts of VATS parameter combinations w/ no luck. the full flash patch etc. in all types of orders. IE stock tune.. adjust vats parameters then apply patch then FULL reflash: No luck. IE stock tune apply vats patch, adjust parameters. : no luck. ETC.. I've done this with adjusted IFR : No luck. I've tried different OS' within my compatibility.. I've thought about trying an older OS' but I don't want to damage my ECM so I haven't yet. Should I use an older OS in the ECM?

I'm at the point where I'm ready to get a lignenfelter kit and convert to gen 3 since I have an ecm and harness at my shop already. OR I just may carb it.. I would like to not do either one of those because I don't want to spend anymore money on this thing. unless its getting tuned.

Could someone please take a look and maybe steer me into the right direction.. Everyone has told me how easy these motors are and I feel the opposite about them right about now..

EFI live is up to date. I've messed with PIDS, I'm getting rpm, etc.

Name it i've prob tried it... Thanks to anyone who takes their time to help or review.Same

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

[gixxer92]

I'm just going through my first VATS delete using a E38 ecu stand alone and I have ignition but no injection while cranking.
Is it the G1220 setting on the factory "apply to 12 V" that causes this?
We're using a independent starting system.
Setting it to "Not used" will hopefully sort it.
I'm trying to sort this remotely you see so its a bit painful :)

thanks,
Mike in NZ

Thanks Mike for the G1220 setting!
Fixed mine! I didn't realize it would effect me after playing with setting to use OEControls box that does start feature. Will troubleshoot more now that my car starts again. :)

[rucxy]

I would like to know if remote start is possible on my 06 VE SS-V or is my OS to old or not compatible with it
E38 PFI ECM
OS 12612381 Rev. AA
Bootblock 12605900
Calibration ID 12612380
I can post my factory tune file if required.

[74n72impalalq94l80]

whats the difference between vats type 2 and 3?

[5557nut]

I know this an old post but referenced by many I'm sure.
The B9903 info is inadequate.
Needs to say "do not open v7.5 tune until key is on.
Nothing says "HOW" to get the software or where to find it. Is setting B9903 to "Applied" actually installs the patch??
For us newbies, it would help if the "Full Flash" process was explained.

I'm finding this site very frustrating because even though there is al lot of info, it feels like the "experts" are expecting us newbies to know where all settings/parameters are. NOT!
It's like setting up an app on your. someone takes your phone and makes adjustments or changes settings and says there-you-go.
They did not show you anything so you have no idea what they did or how to change it.
Maybe when explaining a setting/parameter; saying:
open v7.5 tune
open tuning file (file menu, open tuning file, select file to manage from list of store/saved files)
Put parameter (B9903) in search

I know it takes time to do this but we can't learn if no one tells us.
It takes more 2x or 3x the time for us to find what someone suggested than it takes you to time in details.

So there is my rant. Now Ill go back and read for more hours to understand the popups I get when trying to "Flash" my e38 ecm.
Sorry if I offended anyone...just frustrated. (hope someone reads this :) )

[GMPX]

I'm finding this site very frustrating because even though there is al lot of info, it feels like the "experts" are expecting us newbies to know where all settings/parameters are.
In this car tuning world there exists an expectation that people will be fairly proficient with electronics and computers so other users tend not to go back to the very basics of how things work in responses.
Now that could be because 20 odd years ago this stuff was really, really ugly to deal with, what people have now is a walk in the park compared to what was around back then but the expectation that you know certain things has stuck.


open tuning file (file menu, open tuning file, select file to manage from list of store/saved files)
Which is what I meant above, as an example I know very little about using Photoshop, but if I was to go to a Photoshop help group and someone said 'you create a new blank image' they expect you will not need to be told that means go to file menu, new, blank image etc.

With your posts about this scattered over a few threads it is going to be harder to assist because we'll lose track. In another thread you mentioned "Someone already turned the VATS off" to which I had said that if that was done with other tuning software there is a chance that the VATS patch EFILive does may not work. I won't respond in here, it needs to be done in your other thread.

[01S10AD]

Hey guys . We just bought a 07 suburban. It came with 1 keys I just bought and cut 2nd key for. I need to disable VATS since it is a basic key. I do have access to efi live. I already put a tune on it. However not sure how to disable VATS. Could not find anything via YouTube. Only with hp tuners or adding a resistor on 2 wires under steering wheel.

[PSS]

Looking for some help on a 2009 Trailblazer SS based calibration file in transplant street rod with no start condition. Cranks but doesn't fire the fuel injectors. Not setting any codes that would indicate why it won't start.

OS is 12630465. Flashed to all stock files for a 2009 TBSS with GM Techline so it has the correct slave/MCP files for this software set.

VATS patch applied, VATS type set to 2, tried with and without a relay as a load on the starter

Tested the G1220 starter relay type set to "Not used" and no change.

Tried disconnecting the battery, unplugging the ECU etc.

Any ideas what we should check next? Anyone have a known working 12630465 OS standalone file (or one compatible for swapping with that OS) that they would be willing to share to test to see if it runs with that file (preferably a 2009 TBSS based so that the slave/MCP files match too). MCP files are 12625997 & 12626935 in case that is of interest.


PSS

[oondy]

Good morning, I've been scratching my head overnight trying different combinations of the VATS disabling settings to no avail. Could someone please take a look at my file and point me in the right direction.

Donor vehicle is a 2013/2014 VF Commodore L77 6L80E Transmission.

Thank you
Andrew

[oondy]

Calm down peeps.....boss man strikes again - fuel lines around the wrong way...oops. Runs sweet as