lc-1 hookup headache

[Gregs]

i'm trying to figure out which output to use. I've read about every thread i could find and i'm still confused

1. the efilive tutorial is written for a 7 wire setup and mine is 6 wire.
2. innovate's instructions state that yellow output(number1) is the simulated narrowband wire, but on the tutorial it says use the yellow output number 2????????? that doesn't make sense, which one is right?
3. for the calibration the tutorial says set output 2(yellow?-not right) to 1 volt=10afr and 2 volt=20afr.....innovate's instructions say that brown is #2 and that it is setup at 0v=7.35afr, and 5v=22.39afr

please someone help me out which one do i use, both instructions contradict each other!!

[joecar]

Use the brown wire (0v=7.35afr, 5v=22.39afr) and use the pid CALC.AFR_LC11 or CALC.AFR_LC12.

Do you have FlashScan V1 or V2...?

[joecar]

Note that the tutorial says this on page 1:


...

The example in this guide reprograms the LC-1 “Analog Out 1” output to send a compatible signal to the FlashScan/EFILive Software. The LC-1’s “Analog out 2” is programmed to send a correct signal to the DynoTune Display. The DynoTune Display is precalibrated from the vendor.

...

[Gregs]

ok thanks so much! i've been banging my head against the table for the past hour trying to choose which one to use

[joecar]

Do this:
- connect LC-1 red to switched/fused power,
- connect LC-1 blue to battery ground,
- connect LC-1 brown to FlashScan analog signal,
- connect LC-1 white to FlashScan analog ground, <-- see the orange sentence below

FlashScan V1: analog signal = pin E, analog ground = D
FlashScan V2: analog signal = AD1+, analog ground = AD1-

You also want this:
- connect LC-1 black to the anode side of the LED,
- connect LC-1 white to the cathode side of the LED,
- connect the pushbutton switch in parallel with the LED,

Note: LC-1 black wire is not a ground wire, so do not wire this to ground (it goes on the anode side of the LED).

When you power on the LC-1, the LED should flash for about 20-30 seconds and then go on steady.

The pushbutton is used for doing a free-air calibration (leave engine off overnite, then apply power to LC-1 and press pushbutton, wait for LED to go on steady).


If you don't see a sensible signal for EXT.AD1 on the EFILive scantool do this:
connect the LC-1 white wire to battery ground also (in addition to FlashScan analog ground).
You can try this anyway to see if there is any difference in EXT.AD1 voltage.
[mine works without having to do this].


Now, if you have FlashScan V2, you should really use the serial comms connection and stay away from the analog connection mentioned above...
You still have to provide power (red) and ground (blue), but now you connect the LC-1 SERIAL OUT to the FlashScan V2 RJ12 connector using the supplied serial cables and a null-modem adapter (or a ready made cable).

The LC-1 terminator plug is required to be plugged into LC-1 SERIAL IN anytime the LC-1 SERIAL OUT is used (see previous paragraph, see next paragraph). You can simply just leave the terminator plug plugged in all the time.

The LM Programmer software can be used to view and/or edit the LC-1 AFR:V mapping...
to do this connect your laptop to the LC-1 SERIAL OUT using the supplied cable,
then start the LM Programmer software.

[joecar]

Do you have FlashScan V1 or V2...?

[mr.prick]

That tutorial needs to be updated.
Use the brown wire (analog output #2) if you can't connect your LC-1 to a laptop.
I highly suggest checking the settings in the LMProgrammer software to make sure
everything is correct.
Sometimes for whatever reason the LC-1 settings get changed to custom.
How to match WBO2 output to {B3601}

[Gregs]

i have v1

[Gregs]

the LED that came with my kit has a red or black lead. it doesn't look like the LED they show in the manual. any ideas which side is the anode? google says anode is the positive(red) side, but my buddy who is a computer geek says that anode is negative(black)

i can't tell you guys thanks enough this had been kicking my butt

[joecar]

V1 , ok, then you have to use the analog connection method.


LED:
anode is red (also: lead may be longer),
cathode is black (also: body may have a flat).

[joecar]

I updated post #5 to make the LED polarity clear.

[mr.prick]

I don't suggest connecting the system ground (white wire) to Flashscan, it is a .1V ground.

[joecar]

I don't suggest connecting the system ground (white wire) to Flashscan, it is a .1V ground.Oh, then just connect a wire from battery ground to FlashScan signal ground instead, this would be better.

[joecar]

I don't suggest connecting the system ground (white wire) to Flashscan, it is a .1V ground.Oh, if you connect the LC-1 white wire to ground also (then it will be 0V wrt to ground) then you can connect it to the FlasScan analog ground... or you can connect FlashScan analog ground to battery ground using a separate wire wire... either way.

My white wire always read 0.00V wrt ground, same as the green wire, and I had both of those floating (i.e. not tied to ground)... maybe the earlier LC-1's are different than the later LC-1's...

edit: back when, someone at Innovate told me the white wire was internally tied to the green wire.

[joecar]

Gregs,

When you can, can you measure the voltage on your LC-1 white wire while it is not tied to anything, and post it here...

Thanks.

[mr.prick]

I had both the system & analog grounds connected to AD1 and it had an effect on AD2,
both voltages where sketchy.
Once I separated the white from AD1 voltage was noticeably less shaky.
The system ground is akin to an NBO2 "low reference".

[joecar]

I had both the system & analog grounds connected to AD1 and it had an effect on AD2,
...AD2 was not connected to anything...? That's pretty weird, I'll go try with mine when I have a moment...

[Gregs]

ok thanks for the anode help, that's what i was leaning towards, because i did a little poking around with my multimeter and found that current only travels one way...i guess my buddy must have had a little too much last night

[Gregs]

Gregs,

When you can, can you measure the voltage on your LC-1 white wire while it is not tied to anything, and post it here...

Thanks.

will do, but i might be a few days...all depends on the weather its been really rainy the last few days here

[Filmjay]

I just got EFIL Flashscan v2 and an LC-1 setup (same 6-wire as the OP). I've been reading about the best way to wire it all into my '08 C6, but this thread has me a bit confused.

So I SHOULD wire the analog ground (A1-) inline with a batt. ground? And the yellow/black wires are for the LED?

Thanks. Sorry, first post.

[joecar]

I just got EFIL Flashscan v2 and an LC-1 setup (same 6-wire as the OP). I've been reading about the best way to wire it all into my '08 C6, but this thread has me a bit confused.

So I SHOULD wire the analog ground (A1-) inline with a batt. ground? And the yellow/black wires are for the LED?

Thanks. Sorry, first post.Filmjay, welcome to the forum...:cheers:

So you have FlashScan V1 or V2...?

[TuneMaster]

If it's V2 hook up the power, ground and LED circuits and then use the serial connection, lot more accurate then using AD inputs and no fuss to calibrate.

[joecar]

+1.

[Filmjay]

Thanks. Feel like I should start my own thread, but I thought putting it here might be appropriate. I have FlashScan V2. I'm not one to do thing half-a**ed! :D

My LC-1's serial out adapter terminates with a female 9-pin serial connector So I'm guessing I need an adapter to connect the female serial -> RS232 cable included in EFIL?

Glad I checked the forums. If I'd followed the instructions within the program, or even the Innovate instructions, I'd have spent a lot of time and effort to be screwed. LOL!

[joecar]

See post #3 of this thread: showthread.php?9340-serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?9340-serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2)

Forum member TAQuickness (http://forum.efilive.com/member.php?526-TAQuickness) sells pre-made LC-1 V2 serial cables, see his signature: showthread.php?7867-gt-gt-gt-General-Tuning-Information-lt-lt-lt (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?7867-gt-gt-gt-General-Tuning-Information-lt-lt-lt)

[Filmjay]

See post #3 of this thread: showthread.php?9340-serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?9340-serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2)

Forum member TAQuickness (http://forum.efilive.com/member.php?526-TAQuickness) sells pre-made LC-1 V2 serial cables, see his signature: showthread.php?7867-gt-gt-gt-General-Tuning-Information-lt-lt-lt (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?7867-gt-gt-gt-General-Tuning-Information-lt-lt-lt)

:ranting: Ugh. Well that sucks. Wish I'd known that beforehand.
Any more surprises on items I'll need that aren't included in either box?

Thanks for the link.

[Filmjay]

Oh, it's like that.....

Thanks for the link. Got one of the cables en route. I'm not one for unnecessary adapters on something so signal-sensitive.

[joecar]

Some people like to make their own cable, others like to use the cables that came with (requires the $2.45 null-modem-adapter), while others like a unitized ready made cable...

I did all 3.

[Filmjay]

I'm intending it to be a semi-permanent install, so the full unbroken cable is the only option for me. :)

Thanks again. I'm sure I'll be back w/ a plethora of more questions. :D