Wide band install on an 08 silverado

[icetraxx]

I went ahead a bought the full version of EFILIVE scan/tune. I got a free email tune from the tuner that I bought it from. I am wanting to fine tune the ve tables on my 08 5.3 silverado and I am looking to get a wide band for accurate tuning. I am confused on what to get? I see the LC-1 from innovative. I can get the cable or the cable/o2 sensor.
Questions:
If I get just the cable do I hook it up to the pre-cat stock 02?

If I get the cable/sensor do I replace the pre-cat 02 with the new sensor or do I need to get a bung welded in for it before the cat.

If I do install it before the cat would I need another one for the other side? the trucks have 2 cats right after the headers that merge into a y pipe.

I also have the dynatech long tubes with their high flow cats and y pipe.

thanks,
Larry

[ScarabEpic22]

You must get the LC1, LM1, or LM2 from Innovate. You need both the wideband O2 sensor and their controller module to get data. The factory narrowbands do not output anything but stoich, they would be useless for trying to read wideband data with.

Go pre-cat, otherwise your cruising fueling will be influenced by the cat. I only have 1 LC1 on the passengers side of my TBSS, partially due to the tight packaging of the LS2 in the engine bay. Just keep an eye on the LTFTs, if one bank is running lean/richer than the other compensate a little for that in the tune. Mine seems to be +-2 or 3%, Ill take it!

[joecar]

Larry, do you have FlashScan V1 or V2...?

[joecar]

The Innovate widebands have an output which provides a stock NBO2 signal...

If you want you can just replace the stock NBO2 with the wideband sensor, and wire the Innovate controller to an NBO2 connector (power, ground, signal hi, signal lo) and plug this into the NBO2 socket on the vehicle harness.

Or you can drill the header and weld in a threaded bung, thereby retaining the stock NBO2.

Either way, if you have V1 you will need to wire the analog AFR signal/return to your V1 or V2; if you have V2 you should use the serial AFR connection instead.

Let us know what you get/have.

[icetraxx]

I have the v2. So if I'm understanding you correctly, get the lc-w with the nb02sensor. I could replace the stock nb02 sensor and wire it into the stock harness. Would I be able to obtain wide band data through the factory wireing or would I need to run the wires to connect them to the bottom of the v2?

[5.7ute]

If you go the LC-1, get a serial cable from Andy (TAQuickness on this site) to prevent grounding issues.

[joecar]

Yes, when you wire the LC-1 to the vehicle harness (use an old NBO2 pigtail/connector), this allows the PCM to see the NBO2 signal (0-1V) generated by the LC-1 (the PCM uses this for Closed Loop trimming).

You also need to obtain the LC-1 serial comms cable from TAQuickness as 5.7ute said, this allows your V2 to see the wideband AFR in digital form (no messing about with analog voltage offsets).

i.e. the LC-1 will be doing two functions:
- providing a stock NBO2 signal to the PCM,
- providing a wideband AFR value to FlashScan V2.

[ScarabEpic22]

I had issues mimicking a NBO2 signal with my LC1, I know a few people have been successful but Im without a serial port on my laptop (so I cant program my LC1) and it was on my P10 PCM which is weird anyway.

Its probably easier to have a shop weld the included LC1 bung into your exhaust close to the factory pre-cat NBO2. My NBO2 and WBO2s react very similarily being so close together.

You cannot read anything from the ECM but NBO2 voltage. If you want to get the WBO2 signal, you MUST run the serial cable (or analog if you choose) into the cab to your V2. Id highly recommend using a serial cable, so much easier to setup. I went this route as I didnt want to deal with possible ground offsets and the like.

[whackem04]

Does it matter how far downstream u mount the WBO2? I have a bung welded just after the H- pipe. Is this ok or would just after the header be better?

[joecar]

If you have an offroad H/Y pipe, that should be ok.

[whackem04]

Its 3in all the way from the shorty headers back with a 2.5 H where the pipes come together under the passenger seat.

[ScarabEpic22]

Closer to the cylinder is better, but it should just be pre-cat if you have cats. You will still get the correct signal mounting it farther downstream, you will just have to interpolate the data as there will be a significant lag. For example, when the engine changes to PE or back to CL, the WB readout will lag the actual condition as it is farther from the exhaust ports.

I mounted mine right after my pass side NBO2, there is still a little lag but it is very consistent with the NBO2 trimming.