RR needs full flash all the time.

[mr.prick]

My RR needs a full OS & calz flash before it will boot up.

I cannot retrieve the .tun or load calz only or perform what I call a "soft reset" (toggle between emulation & flash)
only a [Hard Reset (http://www.moates.net/documentation.php?documentation_id=34) will enable the PCM.
In this state the RR "half boots" and I hear the fuel pump "half prime"

It will work immediately after a full flash but not after a minute or so,
then another full flash/hard reset is needed.

I've sent an email & PM to Moates but if anyone else has any ideas I'm all ears.
I hope it's something simple like the internal battery or a bad ground.
30 minute flashes with the stock PCM is going to suck. :bad:

[N0DIH]

I haven't got my RR license for EFIL yet, but for TC2, I got the impression a full flash is done everytime anyway.

Is the Flash Checksum bit UNCHECKED? It it by code, so if you flash it, it gets unset, not sure if that affects anything (or if EFIL can see it). But maybe that is getting missed by EFIL somehow.

A full RR Flash is around 20-30 seconds on TC2....



My RR needs a full OS & calz flash before it will boot up.

I cannot retrieve the .tun or load calz only or perform what I call a "soft reset" (toggle between emulation & flash)
only a [Hard Reset (http://www.moates.net/documentation.php?documentation_id=34) will enable the PCM.
In this state the RR "half boots" and I hear the fuel pump "half prime"

It will work immediately after a full flash but not after a minute or so,
then another full flash/hard reset is needed.

I've sent an email & PM to Moates but if anyone else has any ideas I'm all ears.
I hope it's something simple like the internal battery or a bad ground.
30 minute flashes with the stock PCM is going to suck. :bad:

[mr.prick]

No you either can flash the calz or the calz & OS
I am having to flash both the calz & OS to get the RR to respond at all.

Flashscan cannot connect to the RR until after the full flash and
if I try to retrieve the .tun I get "bad bin file format". :blahblah:
When I try to flash the calz only I get " The OS is not compatible with the RR OS.

:bawl:

[N0DIH]

Even after you get the bad bin error, can you flash it then?

Sounds like it is hung up in write mode.

Have the block or other settings gotten somehow changed?


No you either can flash the calz or the calz & OS
I am having to flash both the calz & OS to get the RR to respond at all.

Flashscan cannot connect to the RR until after the full flash and
if I try to retrieve the .tun I get "bad bin file format". :blahblah:
When I try to flash the calz only I get " The OS is not compatible with the RR OS.

:bawl:

[mr.prick]

No.
It must be a full flash other wise the car won't start.

[mr.prick]

Update:

I took the RR apart and found a good bit of moisture had accumulated inside. :eek:
At some point the seal was pinched. :bawl:

Hopefully after a few days to dry out it will again work properly. :unsure:
I can't remember how to pull the battery off to check it. :nixweiss:

[N0DIH]

Clean it with alky and a gentle toothbrush. Get it all off, that is very important, it isn't a coated board like the main PCM board is, so it will degrade and fail. The unprotected PCB will basically dissolve the traces and it will become useless and a $500 brick. Corrosion sucks....

Glad you found the issue, but it isn't a good thing to find!


Update:

I took the RR apart and found a good bit of moisture had accumulated inside. :eek:
At some point the seal was pinched. :bawl:

Hopefully after a few days to dry out it will again work properly. :unsure:
I can't remember how to pull the battery off to check it. :nixweiss:

[mr.prick]

Other than the nickle size puddle of water it looks okay inside.
A little bit of white on the PCM board but the RR looks perfect.
I can use plain rubbing alcohol right?

The battery is apparently soldered in.
I was able to pull the battery out of my other RR but this one I'm not going to try.

The DMM shows 0.28 volts from a 3 volt battery. :sneaky:

[N0DIH]

Get the 90+% stuff, the higher the % the better, you don't want any water at all. Make sure you dry it well afterwards, a hairdryer works well. Practice good ESD!!! You can fry it too. I don't know how good ESD practice that Craig and his designer used. So consider it a high risk (to your pocket if you are wrong!).... IF you can't find a ground mat (I have one here, but I doubt you live near Chicago), you can use alum foil, and ground it (a hacked up computer power cord works and is cheap), get a wrist strap and ground to the foil and the cord. Make sure good grounding. Bare boards are quite vunerable. The board is safe to get up to 400F before the solder reflows and parts start falling off... :shock: The battery don't get warm, if a Lithium battery, don't short it, they go boom when you do that....

But scrub it with the alky and a soft toothbrush (we used that in the factory all the time), try to get the batt off first, it should be able to come off, mine came off and I had to install it, it was sorta in a holder that has 3 legs that you put in once the RR was on the PCM board. If your batt is that low that might be a problem too with it being "forgetful". Probably a screwdriver pry to get it to pop out. Craig clamed 75 years on the battery life somewhere, but 5 is more what I have come to expect in those types. Especially in an underhood hot environment.







Other than the nickle size puddle of water it looks okay inside.
A little bit of white on the PCM board but the RR looks perfect.
I can use plain rubbing alcohol right?

The battery is apparently soldered in.
I was able to pull the battery out of my other RR but this one I'm not going to try.

The DMM shows 0.28 volts from a 3 volt battery. :sneaky:

[mr.prick]

I don't know if I'll tackle this myself. :sneaky:

Do you know if the battery is soldered to the bottom leg?
I can see some "plug welds" on the top part of the battery clamp but
I don't know if it will slide out with just the top part un-soldered. :nixweiss:

[N0DIH]

Look at the leads where it goes into the board, then look at the other side of the board, they should be like a mini socket, should just pull out. mine came uninstalled. IF yours is newer than 2.5 years ago, might want to ask Craig if the batt comes out, but I bet it does. Look for solder down in the sockets/legs for it. Should be 1 lead on one side and 2 on the other. Just don't pry on the board or IC's, they can and will break, and if the bond wires or die gets force, it is all done.....

[mr.prick]

That's how my other one was, it just pulled out and had a leg glued or soldered to it.
This one has the legs soldered to the board and the battery seems to be soldered to the top leg and probably the bottom one too.