What are some minor changes I can make to familiarize myself with the Tune Tool?

[n8dogg]

Before I do any VE tuning, I would like to play around a bit and tweak a few things just to familiarize myself with the tuning software. I was wondering if anyone has any tips or secrets about some things I can change that would be beneficial. I know it is common to lower the temperatures in which the cooling fans turn on and off, also changing the parameters which lock the skip shift solenoid in the M6 transmissions.

I don't know what temperatures is a good setting nor do I know what parameters I should adjust for the skip shift.

If any one has some good info on minor and simple adjustments, please fill me in.

Thank you!!

Oh an my car is a 2004 Z06, CAI and mufflers are the only mods.

[joecar]

Hi n8dogg,

Try this:
- check that B3608 is zero.
- set B3609 to all zeros.
- set B0204 to 2300 rpm.
- set B0205 to 1 s.

Is the stock thermostat 195°F...? If so, then you could set:
- G0901 to 218°F
- G0902 to 210°F
- G0913 to 228°F
- G0914 to 219°F

[joecar]

Here's a question which I think very few people can answer (I don't know the answer):

Why do all the LS6 files (i.e. LS1B Z06) have B3303 and B5401 have 5th gear complemented...?

[WeathermanShawn]

Here's a question which I think very few people can answer (I don't know the answer):

Why do all the LS6 files (i.e. LS1B Z06) have B3303 and B5401 have 5th gear complemented...?

I don't know. Are you asking why the Rev Limiter is 'different' for 5th? I know in the LS1's you will never physically reach the Rev Limiter in 5th. That is probably not what you are pointing out though...:confused:

[n8dogg]

Hi n8dogg,

Try this:
- check that B3608 is zero.
- set B3609 to all zeros.
- set B0204 to 2300 rpm.
- set B0205 to 1 s.

Is the stock thermostat 195°F...? If so, then you could set:
- G0901 to 218°F
- G0902 to 210°F
- G0913 to 228°F
- G0914 to 219°F

A few questions...

I uploaded my stock tune and saved it. Now I made a copy with the above changes you have suggested (less the fan controls). What does making the Power Enrichment table to all 0's do? What will I benefit from on the others as well?

As far as the fans go, its showing me the reading in C, so I think it was fan on at 108degC. Any idea how I can convert the values to F? Also my fans turn on automatically around 220 as it is. So wouldn't I want to go lower say 180-190?

[WeathermanShawn]

A few questions...

I uploaded my stock tune and saved it. Now I made a copy with the above changes you have suggested (less the fan controls). What does making the Power Enrichment table to all 0's do? What will I benefit from on the others as well?

When you hit Power Enrichment (PE), having it set to '0' prevents any delay in hitting that Commanded Fuel. Same as the other Table (it is all very good to do).

As far as the fans go, its showing me the reading in C, so I think it was fan on at 108degC. Any idea how I can convert the values to F? Also my fans turn on automatically around 220 as it is. So wouldn't I want to go lower say 180-190?

Under the Tune Tool (or in your current tune)..under EDIT..then 2nd from the bottom is 'Configure Display Units'. Say yes. Make the changes (imperial) and the next time you open the tune, it will read F.

Joecar's advice on fans is right on. With the LS1 & Z06 stock thermostats you will never be able to lower your ECT down to 180-190 with just Fan Control. I have done dozens of fan settings and that is about the best one. Believe me, there are dozens of threads on ECT, fans, etc..but unless you change out your thermostat, it is best to stick with those settings.

My normal ECT runs ~190-195F. Boils the oil, but fans are not on all the time. I also use a SLP Manual Fan Switch if I really need to cool the engine prior to a 'spirited' run.


Hope that helps Ndogg..

[n8dogg]

Hope that helps Ndogg..

absolutely, Thanks! I am starting to catch on to the basics of it all, I cant wait to really have a grasp on it all so I can help others in my journey!

[n8dogg]

Just a couple of things I made a mental note of while I was looking at my stock tune.

If I want to disable CAGS, do I do that right where it says CARS/CAGS, and simply select disable?

Can one choose a slightly richer targeted A/F to adjust the ratio, or should I leave that be until I do some VE tuning?

Is there anywhere I can get a .tun file that will work for my car so I can compare my stock and modified tunes and log during a road test to see the differences?

I'm going to flash my PCM with the adjustments recommended by Joecar in a little bit here.

[WeathermanShawn]

Dogg, I forget if you have your wideband or not..

Here are a few tips for you assuming you have a wideband.

1. B0701 Catalytic Converter Protection Enable: Change to Disable. This just adds additional fuel during repeated WOT runs to help cool and protect your cats. It also robs power by adding too much fuel at WOT. I have cats, and have it disabled. Just stay away from repeated 10-15 second WOT runs.

2. I personally like the Z06 Spark Table. But, if you want to try a more aggressive Spark Table..use a 1998 Camaro LS1 (manual). Just copy and paste it into your tune file..http:///www.holdencrazy.com/EFILive/stockTunes.php (http://www.holdencrazy.com/EFILive/stockTunes.php)

3. Using wideband set Table B3618 to 12.7 AFR across the board.

4. Log LONGFT1 and LONGFT2 along with MAFFREQ. That will tell you how much you need to calibrate the MAF to equalize Trims.

I am not sure on disabling CAGS via tune. I did it with a solenoid. But I did disable the Air Pump via tune.

I would offer up my tune, but in all honesty I have made so many changes from stock along with different gearing and modifications..it just would not make sense.

If you are not using a wideband I would only do tip #4. The goal is to safely go leaner on WOT, and see how much spark your can can handle..

Good luck..

[n8dogg]

Dogg, I forget if you have your wideband or not..

Here are a few tips for you assuming you have a wideband.

1. B0701 Catalytic Converter Protection Enable: Change to Disable. This just adds additional fuel during repeated WOT runs to help cool and protect your cats. It also robs power by adding too much fuel at WOT. I have cats, and have it disabled. Just stay away from repeated 10-15 second WOT runs.

2. I personally like the Z06 Spark Table. But, if you want to try a more aggressive Spark Table..use a 1998 Camaro LS1 (manual). Just copy and paste it into your tune file..http:///www.holdencrazy.com/EFILive/stockTunes.php (http://www.holdencrazy.com/EFILive/stockTunes.php)

3. Using wideband set Table B3618 to 12.7 AFR across the board.

4. Log LONGFT1 and LONGFT2 along with MAFFREQ. That will tell you how much you need to calibrate the MAF to equalize Trims.

I am not sure on disabling CAGS via tune. I did it with a solenoid. But I did disable the Air Pump via tune.

I would offer up my tune, but in all honesty I have made so many changes from stock along with different gearing and modifications..it just would not make sense.

If you are not using a wideband I would only do tip #4. The goal is to safely go leaner on WOT, and see how much spark your can can handle..

Good luck..


Good info. I have not installed my LC-1 yet. Haven't made the time to do so yet, I'm half tempted to just install it in place of one of my HEGOs temporarily as LTHs are in the plan for near future.

So you do not recommend touching the Cat Converter Protection with out a WB02?

I do have the skip shift solenoid eliminator installed, I was just thinking for customers cars in the future.

I will for sure Log my LTFT's with MAFFREQ and post it. I'm sure it could use some adjusting with my intake set-up.

For now I will leave everything alone until I hear otherwise as far as your recommendations.

[joecar]

n8dogg,

When you flash, be sure to have all the accessories off and doors/domelights shut/off.

Do the cal-only flash (i.e. not the operating system); this will take about 30 seconds or so.

[joecar]

I belive that's how you disable CAGS... try it and see.

If you disable the AIR pump, be sure to remove it and its plumbing (otherwise the plumbing accumulates condensation/water).

[joecar]

Before installing your LC-1, bench test it:
- connect the LC-1 terminator stereo style plug into LC-1 SERIAL IN,
- connect LC-1 SERIAL OUT to V2 using a null modem cable; see this (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?9340-serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2&p=81205&viewfull=1#post81205).
- connect V2 to power (vehicle OBD-II port),
- connect the LC-1 red/blue wires to car battery (use a fused jumper wire),
- verify that the O2 sensor heats up, it should get too hot to touch,
- verify that the V2 displays the LC-1 lambda/eqr as lean/O2,
- spray brake cleaner lightly onto a clean rag, place rag over sensor, verify V2 lambda/eqr display goes rich,
- remove rag and verify lambda/eqr goes lean/O2,
- repeat the last two steps several times.

Also, while bench testing, do a heater calibration and a free air calibration.

[n8dogg]

Thanks Joe! What are your feelings about the Cat protection disable, safe to do with out WB?

[joecar]

If you avoid extended/repeated high throttle blasts then you may be ok with COTP disabled... my $0.02.

If you have headers and cats, replace the cats with pipes during tuning.

[n8dogg]

If you avoid extended/repeated high throttle blasts then you may be ok with COTP disabled... my $0.02.

If you have headers and cats, replace the cats with pipes during tuning.

Ok I will give it a shot and log a couple WOT passes after. Good point on the cats/no cats during tuning. The test pipe would be a good spot for the WB02 bung and fairly easy to swap out.

[joecar]

Log HO2S11 and HO2S21, these will give you a crude indication of rich/lean at WOT...

voltage below 900mV at WOT would be too lean, so watch out...

but that's crude and can't be accurately relied upon.

[WeathermanShawn]

Dogg:

As I recalled your 1st log had zero KR, and Trims were a little on the positive side. You are one of the few that I might advise to proceed with disabling COTP (per Joecar's instructions). With your +Trims, you will 'probably' be a little rich on WOT anyway..so disabling COTP is no big deal.

Just keep monitoring for KR. I would probably leave Spark alone until you get the wideband or some dyno time..

Your engine bay will have a lot more room after the AIR Pump goes bye-bye..(off-road use in Mexico only)..:grin:..

Thats all I can think of for now..

[n8dogg]

Log HO2S11 and HO2S21, these will give you a crude indication of rich/lean at WOT...

voltage below 900mV at WOT would be too lean, so watch out...

but that's crude and can't be accurately relied upon.



Dogg:

As I recalled your 1st log had zero KR, and Trims were a little on the positive side. You are one of the few that I might advise to proceed with disabling COTP (per Joecar's instructions). With your +Trims, you will 'probably' be a little rich on WOT anyway..so disabling COTP is no big deal.

Just keep monitoring for KR. I would probably leave Spark alone until you get the wideband or some dyno time..

Your engine bay will have a lot more room after the AIR Pump goes bye-bye..(off-road use in Mexico only)..:grin:..

Thats all I can think of for now..


OK, finally got the firmware updated so I can reflash. Heres the Log with a couple of WOT pulls. It shows a .1 retard due to knock (fluke?) The thing that scares me is the 15.46 A/F Max and the injectors maxing out. Any how if you don't mind taking a look I would appreciate all the input you may have. The car did seem to pull harder, probably due to the Cat Temp Protection disabled.

[WeathermanShawn]

Well, here is the deal.

You are very positive on your Trims. This is due to your air box and general high amount of airflow your engine is requiring (all good). If you had logged MAF Freq (Hz), we could have probably figured out a good MAF Calibration for you. There may be a way around that, which I will discuss later.

So, when you are hitting PE Mode or WOT your Commanded AFR is fairly rich (stock ZO6 PE). Added to that is up to +18% additional fuel from your +Trims. So you are very rich. That is why your injectors are maxed out.

I thing you could do which I rarely suggest..but since your LTrims are drastically high...If you took Table B5001 MAF Calibration Table and added +15% and made Table B3618 PE Modifier all 12.7 AFR a lot of your problems would be solved. Your car is very high in Trims. Adding a blanket % to the MAF Table is somewhat of a hack method..but it is better than running +20% Trims at WOT.

Take another look at our Tuning Tutorial (see my sig). With one or two more Pids logged, I bet we could get your car running even stronger within another 2-3 logs.

You are doing real good on the KR front. Leave spark alone for now. All your issues are fueling..

Edit: Don't worry about that 15.45 Commanded AFR. That was at Idle..high ECT. Nothing there to worry about..

[n8dogg]

Well, here is the deal.

You are very positive on your Trims. This is due to your air box and general high amount of airflow your engine is requiring (all good). If you had logged MAF Freq (Hz), we could have probably figured out a good MAF Calibration for you. There may be a way around that, which I will discuss later.

So, when you are hitting PE Mode or WOT your Commanded AFR is fairly rich (stock ZO6 PE). Added to that is up to +18% additional fuel from your +Trims. So you are very rich. That is why your injectors are maxed out.

I thing you could do which I rarely suggest..but since your LTrims are drastically high...If you took Table B5001 MAF Calibration Table and added +15% and made Table B3618 PE Modifier all 12.7 AFR a lot of your problems would be solved. Your car is very high in Trims. Adding a blanket % to the MAF Table is somewhat of a hack method..but it is better than running +20% Trims at WOT.

Take another look at our Tuning Tutorial (see my sig). With one or two more Pids logged, I bet we could get your car running even stronger within another 2-3 logs.

You are doing real good on the KR front. Leave spark alone for now. All your issues are fueling..

Edit: Don't worry about that 15.45 Commanded AFR. That was at Idle..high ECT. Nothing there to worry about..

Good info once again. I plan on logging my MAF Feq this weekend and I will post it up. I also had a feeling I could adjust some fueling even with out using my WB as it is running very rich and I wouldn't be adjusting towards anything dangerous. I DO plan on doing your Calc. VE tuning. Just as soon as I do install the WB, which I am leaning towards when I do the long tube headers install. But I will take another look at your tutorial and Log your suggested PIDs.

For now I will play around with the B5001 and B3618 tables.

[joecar]

Something is wrong... I don't think CAI and mufflers could cause your LTFT to run as high as +14% and higher.

I don't understand how the LTFT's could be pegging on a basically stock car... do you have any leaks in the exhaust...?

It seems too that the high LTFT's are causing the INJDC's to go high.

The HO2Sx1 voltages show at WOT you are just barely sufficiently rich (this supports the possibility of an airleak); they also show at PT that O2 response is a little slow, cycling at about 2x per second vs 4-5x per second; this may be responsible for the high LTFT's; how many miles on the O2 sensors...?

Also, I don't like how the MAF seems to break up at significant rpm (above 4000)... there might be some resonance/harmonics going on, might be the CAI, IDK... this is bad, it's making your MAF pulsate to low readings, these are low MAF values:
260 g/s at 97 kPa at 6100 rpm
245 g/s at 97 kPa at 6300 rpm

Can you log DYNAIR... (replace FUELSYS with DYNAIR, they are both worth 2 pid channels).

[n8dogg]

Something is wrong... I don't think CAI and mufflers could cause your LTFT to run as high as +14% and higher.

I don't understand how the LTFT's could be pegging on a basically stock car... do you have any leaks in the exhaust...?

It seems to that the high LTFT's are causing the INJDC's to go high.

The HO2Sx1 voltages show at WOT you are just barely sufficiently rich (this supports the possibility of an airleak); they also show at PT that O2 response is a little slow, cycling at about 2x per second vs 4-5x per second; this may be responsible for the high LTFT's; how many miles on the O2 sensors...?

Also, I don't like how the MAF seems to break up at significant rpm (above 4000)... there might be some resonance/harmonics going on, might be the CAI, IDK... this is bad, it's making your MAF pulsate to low readings, these are low MAF values:
260 g/s at 97 kPa at 6100 rpm
245 g/s at 97 kPa at 6300 rpm

Can you log DYNAIR... (replace FUELSYS with DYNAIR, they are both worth 2 pid channels).

I didn't have the chance to view some of the logs graphs, so thanks for bringing the MAF to my attention.

heres some info on the car,

2004 Z06, 8,000 miles. I bought it 100% stock. I only added a power duct with K&N filter (a typical and simple CAI set-up) Borla Stinger Mufflers and a throttle body bypass. Other than the few adjustments you had recommended, the car is stock and never been touched. No exhaust leaks at all. I think it is all due to the MAF. Like all the vettes it is located right after the air filter. So there is no straight duct work leading to it, just a huge filter and then your MAF.

[WeathermanShawn]

Wow, good call Joecar. Thats why it is always good to have several people look over a tune.

As a F.Y.I., about every three months I spray half a can of 'MAF' cleaner into the MAF. I use a K&N with a SLP Lid and a 'Free Ram Air Mod'. I was getting some little MAF Freq oscillations and that made a significant difference.

But, that is quite a break-up.

I guess if it persists, you could always go CLSD. Bypass the MAF but keep closed-loop.

Tough call, but I would like to see those Trims come down. At some point it could throw a DTC Code (+/- 25%)..:confused:

[n8dogg]

What I'm gunna do is enable the cat protection again, and adjust the MAF + 15%. I will get the cleaner this weekend. I bet its from the Halltech filter I bought used and was probably over oiled. Good call guys, I really appreciate the help.

[joecar]

Be sure to use a residue free cleaner on the MAF, specifically "CRC MAF Cleaner"... do not use brake cleaner.

[joecar]

Check for airleaks at intake manifold ports, exhaust manifold ports, exhaust manifold->cat flange, O2 sensor bung.

[n8dogg]

Be sure to use a residue free cleaner on the MAF, specifically "CRC MAF Cleaner"... do not use brake cleaner.


Check for airleaks at intake manifold ports, exhaust manifold ports, exhaust manifold->cat flange, O2 sensor bung.

I know for sure the car has no leaks anywhere. It has to be all MAF related from the used filter I was using before I installed this K&N. I did the MAF +15% and a 12.7 AF target and the thing runs 10 times better. I am hoping the auto store is open tomorrow so I can clean it and Log my current tune.

[WeathermanShawn]

Glad to hear n8dogg..

For other forum readers, the blanket +15% to the the MAF Table is a one-time only 'emergency' solution. Since the OP's car is basically stock and his Fuel Trims quite high, he can probably get away with it in the short-term.

Here is what the OP and others should plot as a minimum..

[n8dogg]

Glad to hear n8dogg..

For other forum readers, the blanket +15% to the the MAF Table is a one-time only 'emergency' solution. Since the OP's car is basically stock and his Fuel Trims quite high, he can probably get away with it in the short-term.

Here is what the OP and others should plot as a minimum..

Shawn,
Do you suggest I clean my MAF and then reflash with my stock tune and Log again?

[WeathermanShawn]

I think it would be interesting to see a log after a good MAF cleaning. Especially if you log MAF Frequency. Then it will be really easy to see if your MAF is getting too much turbulence.

I would leave the +15% MAF and 12.7 AFR alone. If your log goes good (negative Trims, no KR) and if you are brave enough, you could then try a second log with COTP disabled. I do not want to advise you to go to crazy, since you don't have a wideband working yet. But, you also have no KR on any of your runs, so I would be curious to see how it goes.

I should mention this approach is basically all MAF. You will have to address your VE Table airflow tuning ASAP, especially as you have substantially increased your MAF Airflow. It does obviously play a part, especially when you snap the throttle open and for those RPM's below 4000. Once your MAF and Trims are good, its as 'easy' CALC.VE Table adjustment.

Summary:

1. Clean MAF using an approved MAF Cleaner.

2. Run a log with LTFT's, MAF Frequency, everything else you have been logging (keep channels at 24 or below).

3. Keep the +15 MAF and 12.7 PE AFR.

4. Try +15% MAF, 12.7 PE AFR, and COTP disabled (optional).

5. Report back (logs).

I must admit I like working with basically stock, but fast cars. You really do get almost instantaneous gratification when you make tuning changes.

Later..

[n8dogg]

Alright here it is. I finally got a can of MAF cleaner, removed the MAF and cleaned both sides. I left my tune the way it was so +15% MAF, 12.7 PE AFR, cat OTP off, and logged a 10-15 minute drive, which includes a WOT pull on the on ramp. The LTFT's are way down from -2 to +2 and the injectors are not maxing out, they reached 90% at the highest RPM (6300). MAF Freq seemed to have improved. You can see where TP was down when I shifted which resulted in a spike in MAF Freq once I went back to WOT. I think this is due to the MAF location (right after the air filter). All in all the car is running better than ever. Let me know what you guys think, thanks!!

[WeathermanShawn]

Just a quick look..To me it looks a lot better.

I'll take a closer look tonight. I like that you logged the MAF Frequency. I can probably assist you in totally zeroing out those Trims.

Nice to see them come down..and fueling and KR look pretty good..

I'll get back to you in a few hours, but so far that seems like a huge improvement.

[n8dogg]

Just a quick look..To me it looks a lot better.

I'll take a closer look tonight. I like that you logged the MAF Frequency. I can probably assist you in totally zeroing out those Trims.

Nice to see them come down..and fueling and KR look pretty good..

I'll get back to you in a few hours, but so far that seems like a huge improvement.

I agree and I couldn't have done it with out you and Joe, you guys are a tremendous help.

[WeathermanShawn]

Thanks for the compliment.

Just doing another quick look at your MAF LTFTBENS, and a very rough CALC. VE Table.

If you take a quick look at the Tutorial you can see that all you have to do is simply paste and multiply your current MAF Calibration Table by the attacked BENS. I.E., you are only a few percentages away from zeroing them out.

The CALC.VE Table is very rough. I did not filter out throttle transient, ECT, or empty cells. And we don't have wideband date yet. But, if you compare it to a stock ZO6 VE Table, its pretty close in the meat of the RPM's.

Your MAF signal looks pretty good. It might be a little 'shakier' than mine at WOT, but your entire airflow and Trims look so much better.

Now, when we get that wideband..the fun will really begin.

Good job on your PIDS and Log. That really helped.

[joecar]

Wow, looks much better... 87-89% injdc is acceptable, trims look good.

Is your filter the oiled-foam type...? Is so, is it possible to try a paper-weave type...?

MAF signal still has oscillations at higher rpm... is there any way to borrow a different intake duct (say another CAI and a stock duct) and get some logs...? It's up to you if you're not happy with the MAF signal oscillating (I don't like it).

I don't think the headers are causing the MAF signal oscillations because the stock LS6 cam has 24° underlap, so both valves are not open simultaneously... I think it might be the CAI inadvertently have some instability/harmonic coinciding with your peak torque (this is a very difficult black art topic of which I have very poor understanding).

We need to find someone else's Z06 MAF logs to see what they do.

[WeathermanShawn]

Dogg:

I would probably investigate changing out that CAI-type as Joecar suggested. The problem that you might eventually have is that as your MAF signal oscillates, your calculated Spark Load and injector fueling (>4000 RPM) will also oscillate. Whether it is mild or wild will be determined when you get your wideband attached.

Just for comparison, I attached a WOT log I did over the winter from a 2002 LS1. Next is your MAF Freq at WOT. It will never be a direct comparison, but if you see your AFR bouncing around too much..that would be a problem.

Note: Both logs are filtered by Commanded AFR and RPM..so times and frames can be from different portions of the log..

[n8dogg]

Wow, looks much better... 87-89% injdc is acceptable, trims look good.

Is your filter the oiled-foam type...? Is so, is it possible to try a paper-weave type...?

MAF signal still has oscillations at higher rpm... is there any way to borrow a different intake duct (say another CAI and a stock duct) and get some logs...? It's up to you if you're not happy with the MAF signal oscillating (I don't like it).

I don't think the headers are causing the MAF signal oscillations because the stock LS6 cam has 24° underlap, so both valves are not open simultaneously... I think it might be the CAI inadvertently have some instability/harmonic coinciding with your peak torque (this is a very difficult black art topic of which I have very poor understanding).

We need to find someone else's Z06 MAF logs to see what they do.

I had a Halltech oiled type filter on before my set-up now. I was throwing CEL for MAF Freq. I ended up swapping it for a K&N which is still an oil type but isn't soaked in oil like the Halltech was. I do not have headers yet, its stock exhaust except the Borla mufflers. I can swap the stock intake back on and Log if need be.


Dogg:

I would probably investigate changing out that CAI-type as Joecar suggested. The problem that you might eventually have is that as your MAF signal oscillates, your calculated Spark Load and injector fueling (>4000 RPM) will also oscillate. Whether it is mild or wild will be determined when you get your wideband attached.

Just for comparison, I attached a WOT log I did over the winter from a 2002 LS1. Next is your MAF Freq at WOT. It will never be a direct comparison, but if you see your AFR bouncing around too much..that would be a problem.

Note: Both logs are filtered by Commanded AFR and RPM..so times and frames can be from different portions of the log..

I really think the problem lies in the MAF placement. There really is no straight piping before and after the sensor. Its just a big filter with the MAF connected, I would imagine the sensor would have difficulty reading especially at the higher end of flow. Just a thought, I know some of the 'Vette guys place it after the power duct before the TB.

[joecar]

...

I really think the problem lies in the MAF placement. There really is no straight piping before and after the sensor.

...This is known to cause problems... sometimes rotating/clocking the MAF sensor may help, but I'm not sure that this would be an "accurate" thing to do.

You do have the stock duct... :cheers: ...it may be worth doing this experiment of comparing MAF logs between stock duct with CAI... in this case if the stock duct shows improvement then it is the better duct... (doesn't the stock C5/Z06 duct take air from ahead of the car, down low in front, ahead of the radiator air deflector...?)

[n8dogg]

This is known to cause problems... sometimes rotating/clocking the MAF sensor may help, but I'm not sure that this would be an "accurate" thing to do.

You do have the stock duct... :cheers: ...it may be worth doing this experiment of comparing MAF logs between stock duct with CAI... in this case if the stock duct shows improvement then it is the better duct... (doesn't the stock C5/Z06 duct take air from ahead of the car, down low in front, ahead of the radiator air deflector...?)

No, the stock intake is an air box in front with a flat filter just like the regular coupes and verts. Its supposed to be a higher flowing filter :/. Then there is the MAF, a wide/flat "power duct" and then an accordion duct to the TB. I'll try to swap it out and log soon.

[joecar]

I'm not familiar with Corvette, I'll look at some pics.

[joecar]

Ah, I see what the stock setup looks like... it was right under my nose in the Service Manual :doh2:

[WeathermanShawn]

Dogg:

Even though you have some MAF oscillations, at least it appears your Spark is staying constant at WOT. Probably by virtue of your High-Octane Spark Table, and the additional MAF airflow..(Changes your calculated spark load..all good).

When you able to successfully disable COTP, you should gain an additional margin on your Injector Duty. I do not believe COTP will appear in the Commanded AFR PID. I.E., your Commanded AFR will say 12.72, but there is an additional amount of fuel being added via COTP.

We will be standing by to see how your tune comes together when we get an idea of how close your actual AFR is to Commanded.

Later..

[joecar]

It seems that the PCM/OS is able to smooth/filter/integrate the MAF signal... question is: how big an oscillation before it can't be filtered.

[n8dogg]

Ya the MAF placement is far from optimal. I guess GM did what they can with the PCM with smoothing to adapt for the placement.

I guess my next step is to get my WB02 up and running and install it finally. I'm just dragging my feet because I plan on getting headers and I only want to do this once.