scan tool wont log rafig or rafpn

[z28ls1818]

wtf is going on.

When i setup the rafpn or rafig sometimes it will log and sometimes it wont. i setup rafpn then i go to record and nothing pops up for minutes. and sometimes it will stay at 0 for a while then the map that i creat will all of a sudden start logging. its like a hit or miss thing, sometimes it works sometimes it doesnt. ive replaced the usb and the obd2 cable already and it cured the problem for a weeek or two now its back. its like its not getting the full connection with the pcm or something.

[joecar]

Do you have all the associated pids selected...? On the PIDs tab, on RAFIG or RAFPN do rightclick->More Info and see the other pids that need to be also selected.

Goto the Console tab, do ctrl-A ctrl-C and paste that into this thread.

[joecar]

Post your log files.


[ BTW: I'm still researching on the 1998 ABS. ]

[z28ls1818]

yes i have the pids selected. it sometimes records and sometimes wont. this is why i thinkg its more hardware related to the scan tool

[joecar]

Check that the data bus wiring from the OBD port to the PCM is good.

Check that the cigar lighter fuse is not loose.

Check that the OBD port pins are good and make snug contact with the scantool connector.

Check that the PCM grounds are good.

Post a log file and the contents of the Console tab.

[z28ls1818]

8711

[z28ls1818]

no one knows or had a similar experience?

[joecar]

Connect scantool to vehicle and attempt another log, then goto the Console tab, do ctrl-A and copy/paste that into this thread.

[joecar]

That log shows those pids being pretty much zero... post your .tun file.

[mr.prick]

I see {RAFGPN} values in this log.
It looks like most of the {RAFGPN} data is close to zero, nothing wrong with that.

What FW and build are you using?

[joecar]

I fixed the log file name.

[z28ls1818]

I see {RAFGPN} values in this log.
It looks like most of the {RAFGPN} data is close to zero, nothing wrong with that.

What FW and build are you using?


sorry about the name haha. anyway. nothing wrong? you serious. show me anyone on here that will read 0 for correction on desired idle airflow. it logs then stop then starts then stops. nothing wrong with that? tune file attached.

[z28ls1818]

Connect scantool to vehicle and attempt another log, then goto the Console tab, do ctrl-A and copy/paste that into this thread.



will do this in a bit.

[WeathermanShawn]

What Mr. Prick was saying is that we (I) do not see RAFIG being logged. Your OS is 12212156. Maybe no biggie, but isn't that for a Manual?

So just to clarify..are you trying to log both RAFIG & RAFPN?

By the way, what's up with that Throttle Cracker Air? Up to 45 grams of air?

I take it you switched back to Closed-Loop with MAF for RAFIG (not SDAUTOVE like your Tune Title)?

Thanks..

[rally1]

If you have a big cam you may need to lift (B4508} Airflow Learning RPM Threshold to enable air flow learning, im not 100% on this but in the past I found I was getting no data from the RAFPN till I increased this value. Some of the big brains on here might have a better idea about it.

[z28ls1818]

If you have a big cam you may need to lift (B4508} Airflow Learning RPM Threshold to enable air flow learning, im not 100% on this but in the past I found I was getting no data from the RAFPN till I increased this value. Some of the big brains on here might have a better idea about it.



interesting. anyone else know this. my cam is small 226 236 110lsa.525 lift

[z28ls1818]

What Mr. Prick was saying is that we (I) do not see RAFIG being logged. Your OS is 12212156. Maybe no biggie, but isn't that for a Manual?

So just to clarify..are you trying to log both RAFIG & RAFPN?

By the way, what's up with that Throttle Cracker Air? Up to 45 grams of air?

I take it you switched back to Closed-Loop with MAF for RAFIG (not SDAUTOVE like your Tune Title)?

Thanks..


closed loop maf. that was when i did the tune for the ve tabel, i just never changed the name.

its for an auto.

[z28ls1818]

What Mr. Prick was saying is that we (I) do not see RAFIG being logged. Your OS is 12212156. Maybe no biggie, but isn't that for a Manual? pretty sure its for auto

So just to clarify..are you trying to log both RAFIG & RAFPN? not at the same time. today while logging it worked.

By the way, what's up with that Throttle Cracker Air? Up to 45 grams of air? thats because i was having a hard time with the car dipping to much when i left off the gas. i was increasing the whole table until it stopped. this is now changed to lower cause i was getting surging cause of too much air.

I take it you switched back to Closed-Loop with MAF for RAFIG (not SDAUTOVE like your Tune Title)? closed loop maf

Thanks..
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

[WeathermanShawn]

aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

So, the issue is resolved? What fixed it?

On, B4508..that is an intriguing question. I suppose if your cam overlap was such that your RPM oscillated more than the 60 RPM Error Threshold..Idle learning would be disabled. That should not be an issue with your cam, but interesting information.

I have changed B4504 from 1.3 to 4.3 seconds per SSpdDmon's Idle Tutorial..http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?4661-Idle-Tuning-Helpful-Info-Inside

Idle is confusing enough...Glad you got the Scan Tool working..

[z28ls1818]

[QUOTE=WeathermanShawn;127172]So, the issue is resolved? What fixed it?

On, B4508..that is an intriguing question. I suppose if your cam overlap was such that your RPM oscillated more than the 60 RPM Error Threshold..Idle learning would be disabled. That should not be an issue with your cam, but interesting information.




I have changed B4504 from 1.3 to 4.3 seconds per SSpdDmon's Idle Tutorial..http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?4661-Idle-Tuning-Helpful-Info-Inside


dont know what fixed it. my screen went out on my brand new dell desktop and the guy came and replaced the motherboard and the screen. im thinking it was a cp issue and not scan tool either way i ordered a new ob2 port on the car and will solder it on when it gets here just in case.


my idle is still nuts though.

when its in park/neutral it dips down way low when i rev and let go real fast. i cant fix it.

i would love it if joecar would come down, LOL. I WOULD PAY FOR HIS GAS AND TIME ON THE WEEKEND.

Lets start a go joe go joe thread lol.

[5.7ute]

Whenever there is an idle problem present you should log the airflow adder pids & spark advance to see where your issue is. We can guess, but that is all it will be.

[5.7ute]

Also, idle underspeed error should be adding timing, not taking it away. You find the best idle spark with the bidi controls.(Most vaccuum or lowest kpa) Subtract a couple of degrees from this value & put it in your base spark tables. Then add the timing back in with the underspeed error table. This will give you a solid idle to work with. The IAC valve moves much to slowly to catch a bad idle.

[z28ls1818]

Whenever there is an idle problem present you should log the airflow adder pids & spark advance to see where your issue is. We can guess, but that is all it will be.

can you list the pids that i should log?

[5.7ute]

Add throttle cracker, follower & cooling fan airflow to the pids you had in the wont log file, as well as spark advance. Fix the base spark & underspeed correction issue first though.

[z28ls1818]

Add throttle cracker, follower & cooling fan airflow to the pids you had in the wont log file, as well as spark advance. Fix the base spark & underspeed correction issue first though.

so i should add timing to the underspeed tablle? i noticed that it has - #s there and that is a nono if you are trying to add timing correct?

so where my base spark in gear is 19 in the idle section should change to what?

and the base spark to what?

sorry for having you hold my hand through this, i just want to get this right.

[5.7ute]

You really need to use the BIDI controls to find out as all engines are different. But with your cam I would have thought at least 25 deg, probably closer to 28 though.
So set both base spark tables to 25 deg, add something like this to the idle underspeed tables.LABELS Idle Underspeed Error (Degrees)
RPM {link: SAE.RPM} Value
-300 9.008789
-250 9.008789
-200 9.008789
-150 9.008789
-100 7.000000
-50 5.000000
-38 3.000000
-25 2.000000
-13 1.000000
0 0.000000
Then you need to learn to use the BIDI (DVT)controls to fine tune it.

[5.7ute]

Or you could try this:

[WeathermanShawn]

OP:

5.7ute is doing you a real favor by walking you through. With all due respect, almost all of this is covered in the Idle Tutorial. I am not saying it to 'blow you off', but just for the hundreds of other readers who have cams and Idle problems. It would be impossible to walk everyone through.

On a more specific note, you should really look at your High-Octane Spark Table. I totally agree with 5.7ute on the amount of Base Spark (~25 degrees). But you have all of your High-Octane Spark from 400-1200 Rpm's at 12.5 degrees. With that big of a difference in Spark, when you go from Idle to Throttle your car will stumble or even stall. Most of the time you will get a better Idle-Throttle Spark Transition when they are within 4 degrees of each other.

Again, it is covered in the Idle Tutorial. I did every Air, Spark, and Fuel adjustment that is covered in the material. My cam with 10 degrees of overlap Idles perfectly. Remember, it takes a few learning cycles for the new Idle Parameters to be learned. You need to block off a few days for Idle to be properly done.

Good luck. Read up and try out some of the suggestions..:)

[joecar]

Gary, idle is one of the hard things (to me anyway), airflow and timing interact very tightly...

I'm outa town at the moment, but it looks like you're getting good info here.

:^)

[joecar]

BTW: the OP did the 1998->2002 PCM conversion.

[z28ls1818]

You really need to use the BIDI controls to find out as all engines are different. But with your cam I would have thought at least 25 deg, probably closer to 28 though.
So set both base spark tables to 25 deg, add something like this to the idle underspeed tables.LABELS Idle Underspeed Error (Degrees)
RPM {link: SAE.RPM} Value
-300 9.008789
-250 9.008789
-200 9.008789
-150 9.008789
-100 7.000000
-50 5.000000
-38 3.000000
-25 2.000000
-13 1.000000
0 0.000000
Then you need to learn to use the BIDI (DVT)controls to fine tune it.


tried both of the suggestions and it made it worse. im discusted lol . im such a noob.

[5.7ute]

tried both of the suggestions and it made it worse. im discusted lol . im such a noob.
Do you have a log with the changes made? Have you tried using the BIDI controls yet to find what spark your cam likes for idle?
You need to find what spark advance gives you the best vaccuum/lowest map pressure.

[5.7ute]

Also desired airflow looks jacked up too much. I dont have my old tune with a similar cam to yours here to look at to compare though. If there was a bad surge at idle you could pretty much say that this being jacked up too high was the main contributor there.

[z28ls1818]

also desired airflow looks jacked up too much. I dont have my old tune with a similar cam to yours here to look at to compare though. If there was a bad surge at idle you could pretty much say that this being jacked up too high was the main contributor there.



i did the rafig and rafpn process and those are the #s it came out with..

[z28ls1818]

do you have a log with the changes made? Have you tried using the bidi controls yet to find what spark your cam likes for idle?
You need to find what spark advance gives you the best vaccuum/lowest map pressure.


what pids do i log for that. Map pid obviously?

Also on the bidi controls. Do i add or subtract timing or do i use the advance or retard tabs.

[z28ls1818]

I'm going to load this file in. I'll see if I can work with it. I used the idle tutorial.


If anyone can check it let me know what you think.

[5.7ute]

map,rpm,ect,iac steps,stit,ltit,desired idle speed. Use the advance tab, add or subtract are delta spark(IIRC) & will still leave the over/underspeed tables active.(I use my roadrunner so I dont play with DVT much)
Also IIRC you need to start recording the log before you activate the DVT. (Or you may only be able to view & not record the data, it has been a while lol)

[z28ls1818]

i have a road runner as well. how does this help you vs the old method?

[WeathermanShawn]

I will look over your log also. I was always under the impression you wanted B3801 Enabled to do RAGIG???

I also have the RoadRunner. It is a nice tool, but everything needs to be set up perfect to do it. It is just as fast and less prone to Operator Error to use the BIDI controls (or just re-flash new tunes in). That is very quick using the RR..

[z28ls1818]

I will look over your log also. I was always under the impression you wanted B3801 Enabled to do RAGIG???

I also have the RoadRunner. It is a nice tool, but everything needs to be set up perfect to do it. It is just as fast and less prone to Operator Error to use the BIDI controls (or just re-flash new tunes in). That is very quick using the RR..


thanks for pointing that out.

what will enable do?

[z28ls1818]

I will look over your log also. I was always under the impression you wanted B3801 Enabled to do RAGIG???

I also have the RoadRunner. It is a nice tool, but everything needs to be set up perfect to do it. It is just as fast and less prone to Operator Error to use the BIDI controls (or just re-flash new tunes in). That is very quick using the RR..

b4108 is also disabled. if i enable both. what will that give me?

[5.7ute]

BIDI connectivity is patchy at best with my laptop. So what I do is log those pids as before with GM.DYNCYLAIR_DMA added. Then while recording the log in emulation mode, change the base spark timing using the hot keys F7-1 ,F8 +1. Make sure you have automatically track linked scan tool cell (CTRL+K) selected & the over/underspeed tables zeroed. (sometimes you may need a small bit of correction here but with your small cam you should be right)
I forgot to add spark advance to that last pid list. I had a much longer post typed up but the internet dropped out as I tried to post it. Once you map out the log you will see where the best timing/MAP pressure is to base your timing on. Desired airflow will need dropping once a better idle timing is found IMO.

[WeathermanShawn]

Well it will enable Long Term Trims..which are used for Idle and Cruise..Same for B4108 (Short term idle Trims)..

Your Idle trims are controlled by B0107 and B0108. I am 99% sure you need those parameters enabled to correctly log Idle Trims (which is what RAFIG & RAFPN are).

The Trim mechanism is different in that it is your IAC controlling airflow and Trims at Idle. Any further discussion will take more engineering knowledge than I have.

I would try Enabling those parameters. I'll look over the rest of your tune/log..

[z28ls1818]

Well it will enable Long Term Trims..which are used for Idle and Cruise..Same for B4108 (Short term idle Trims)..

Your Idle trims are controlled by B0107 and B0108. I am 99% sure you need those parameters enabled to correctly log Idle Trims (which is what RAFIG & RAFPN are).

The Trim mechanism is different in that it is your IAC controlling airflow and Trims at Idle. Any further discussion will take more engineering knowledge than I have.

I would try Enabling those parameters. I'll look over the rest of your tune/log..


i will enable them.

[z28ls1818]

BIDI connectivity is patchy at best with my laptop. So what I do is log those pids as before with GM.DYNCYLAIR_DMA added. Then while recording the log in emulation mode, change the base spark timing using the hot keys F7-1 ,F8 +1. Make sure you have automatically track linked scan tool cell (CTRL+K) selected & the over/underspeed tables zeroed. (sometimes you may need a small bit of correction here but with your small cam you should be right)
I forgot to add spark advance to that last pid list. I had a much longer post typed up but the internet dropped out as I tried to post it. Once you map out the log you will see where the best timing/MAP pressure is to base your timing on. Desired airflow will need dropping once a better idle timing is found IMO.


ok.

i will log and use the f7 and f8 to add or subtract timing. so when i look at my log, i will try to find the lowest vacuum reading ? how will i know what timing that occurred in?(time of lowest vacuum? )

you want me to zero out the under and over speed tables? all of them ?

[WeathermanShawn]

O.K., I will do you a favor here..which I rarely do.

When I first learned Idle using the Idle Tutorial http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?4661-Idle-Tuning-Helpful-Info-Inside.. (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?4661-Idle-Tuning-Helpful-Info-Inside)

I used one of the Author's Tune to dial in the Airflow Learning Parameters. In reality, they all in the Tutorial. That includes B4512-B4515.. which to this day I never see a tune that actually uses those numbers (except the Author's and mine). They are extremely important to Idle. Very few Tuners spend the time to get them right. And it takes several Idle runs before your car learns them.

I will attach his tune for your reading. If you know how to load 'Alternate Comparison Tunes' it easy to see where you differ.

So, this is not a brag when I say my Cam with 10 degrees of overlap idles perfectly. I just get frustrated when I see so many people struggling with it.

Here is his Tune. I basically use all his Idle Parameters. My Spark is different, but follows the same principles..just don't copy it verbatim. That can lead to other problems ..

[z28ls1818]

O.K., I will do you a favor here..which I rarely do.

When I first learned Idle using the Idle Tutorial http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?4661-Idle-Tuning-Helpful-Info-Inside.. (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?4661-Idle-Tuning-Helpful-Info-Inside)

I used one of the Author's Tune to dial in the Airflow Learning Parameters. In reality, they all in the Tutorial. That includes B4512-B4515.. which to this day I never see a tune that actually uses those numbers (except the Author's and mine). They are extremely important to Idle. Very few Tuners spend the time to get them right. And it takes several Idle runs before your car learns them.

I will attach his tune for your reading. If you know how to load 'Alternate Comparison Tunes' it easy to see where you differ.

So, this is not a brag when I say my Cam with 10 degrees of overlap idles perfectly. I just get frustrated when I see so many people struggling with it.

Here is his Tune. I basically use all his Idle Parameters. My Spark is different, but follows the same principles..just don't copy it verbatim. That can lead to other problems ..

my car is an a4, do you advise me to use B4512-B4515 the same as the sspddmon tune? i noticed that his and yours are m6 car.s

[5.7ute]

ok.

i will log and use the f7 and f8 to add or subtract timing. so when i look at my log, i will try to find the lowest vacuum reading ? how will i know what timing that occurred in?(time of lowest vacuum? )

you want me to zero out the under and over speed tables? all of them ?

Only for that test. You can make a simple map in the scan tool that will give you timing as an axis & manifold pressure as the data to see where the best timing is. But you will find that the best timing should show up just watching the data trace.
If you felt real keen you could make a custom calc pid, similar to the one I made in the dyno log thread using delta map instead of delta torque but I havent been able to test it as yet.
See here.
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?12060-Dyno-integration-complete&highlight=mainline

[WeathermanShawn]

That is a real good point.

You might want to get some other feedback on that..at least you are looking at it. A lot of tuners blow it off.

I am a little curious on your B4351 and B4352 values. Are those stock? You see that is adding Airflow for your Cats (Multiplier 1) for every ECT. That might make it hard to nail down your Desired Airflow.

You might want to PM the Author, or ask for an A4 guy/gal who might have different values for the Learned Airflow Corrections. I think the general idea is to zero out any airflow correction that is occurring for small RPM changes. That way when your cam lopes it is not adding/subtracting large amounts of airflow every time your cam/RPM oscillate.

[z28ls1818]

O.K., I will do you a favor here..which I rarely do.

When I first learned Idle using the Idle Tutorial http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?4661-Idle-Tuning-Helpful-Info-Inside.. (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?4661-Idle-Tuning-Helpful-Info-Inside)

I used one of the Author's Tune to dial in the Airflow Learning Parameters. In reality, they all in the Tutorial. That includes B4512-B4515.. which to this day I never see a tune that actually uses those numbers (except the Author's and mine). They are extremely important to Idle. Very few Tuners spend the time to get them right. And it takes several Idle runs before your car learns them.

I will attach his tune for your reading. If you know how to load 'Alternate Comparison Tunes' it easy to see where you differ.

So, this is not a brag when I say my Cam with 10 degrees of overlap idles perfectly. I just get frustrated when I see so many people struggling with it.

Here is his Tune. I basically use all his Idle Parameters. My Spark is different, but follows the same principles..just don't copy it verbatim. That can lead to other problems ..


i pretty much copied everything over. minus some tables that i know i need for a4!!

attached is a log. i pretty much logged the map(kpa). i tried the lowest reading, i used the emulator mode in the tune software, it made it much easier to find. now hopefully i did it right.

the first 6480 frames are me messing with the park base tables. it really like 27=degrees of timing. i thought it was way too much. let me know what you think based upon the log.

starting from frame 6481 i start messing with the in gear base tables. you can see in the log that it jumps to 25 degrees. thats when i put in GEAR. anyways for in gear it likes a real high spark. i dont know if this is normal.

attached is the tune that i left. it represents the new spark tables in base park and base gear.

i notched down the gear degrees. i thought 35plus degrees was way too much. this is why i settled at 30, at least until i get some insight. . but look at log file and let me know what i should have the idle #s at. thanks.

[WeathermanShawn]

It seems pretty reasonable..

The main question is, how does it Idle now? Remember, it may take a few cycles for the new airflow parameters to be learned.

To me your Desired Airflow B4307 seems to high. I see that RAFIG is trying to subtract 1.59 g/s at 104C. Normally 7-8 g/s works fine. Thats a lot of Airflow for lower ECT's. When winter comes your car will sound like a jet engine when it starts with that much Desired Airflow.

And you will need some work on the Throttle Cracker and Throttle Follower at some point.

As far as spark, I have tried anywhere from 18-30 degrees of Base Spark in gear (M6). I have found 24-26 degrees works good with my set-up. I would not be afraid of the amount of spark you are running. Over 30 degrees might be overkill.

You shoot for the AFR, Spark, and Air that will give you the lowest MAP (highest vacuum) that you can for Idle. Remember, the lower the MAP..less load on the engine, which means more vacuum (inverse relationship). From your log, I take it you Idle at ~60-65 kPa? Can you get it to 55 kPa, or is 60 it?

[5.7ute]

With the spark I log SAE.SPARKADV. This gives the final spark value that goes to the engine, not what it reads from the table which I believe the pids you logged show.
I havent played with a cammed auto, so dont know if what you are seeing is normal. But what the engine wants is what you give it, minus a few degrees to give it some room to find idle.

[z28ls1818]

It seems pretty reasonable..

The main question is, how does it Idle now? Remember, it may take a few cycles for the new airflow parameters to be learned.

To me your Desired Airflow B4307 seems to high. I see that RAFIG is trying to subtract 1.59 g/s at 104C. Normally 7-8 g/s works fine. Thats a lot of Airflow for lower ECT's. When winter comes your car will sound like a jet engine when it starts with that much Desired Airflow.

And you will need some work on the Throttle Cracker and Throttle Follower at some point.

As far as spark, I have tried anywhere from 18-30 degrees of Base Spark in gear (M6). I have found 24-26 degrees works good with my set-up. I would not be afraid of the amount of spark you are running. Over 30 degrees might be overkill.

You shoot for the AFR, Spark, and Air that will give you the lowest MAP (highest vacuum) that you can for Idle. Remember, the lower the MAP..less load on the engine, which means more vacuum (inverse relationship). From your log, I take it you Idle at ~60-65 kPa? Can you get it to 55 kPa, or is 60 it?


i got it down to 58-9 on the park neutral side. if you look at log, i dont remember what was the spark (timing).

on the gear base table i got the kpa to around 60-1 again i dont remember the spark, but to get this # i had the spark super high. like 35.

it idled 10xbetter. sounded less hectic, it wasnt shaking as much. tomorrow. i will do a rafpn to see if i can get the desired airflow down. when in park and when i rev is where it still falls on its face. it may be simple, like too much airflow, which i will see if can get rid of tomorrow morning during rafig.


whenever my #2 fan turns on my lights dim and it seems like the car will stumble on its face.

[5.7ute]

i got it down to 58-9 on the park neutral side. if you look at log, i dont remember what was the spark (timing).

on the gear base table i got the kpa to around 60-1 again i dont remember the spark, but to get this # i had the spark super high. like 35.

it idled 10xbetter. sounded less hectic, it wasnt shaking as much. tomorrow. i will do a rafpn to see if i can get the desired airflow down. when in park and when i rev is where it still falls on its face. it may be simple, like too much airflow, which i will see if can get rid of tomorrow morning during rafig.


whenever my #2 fan turns on my lights dim and it seems like the car will stumble on its face.

That is just the fan correction airflow that need tweaking.
Falling past idle can be throttle follower air decaying too fast, or the idle correction, base spark tables still not quite optimum. Since you have the RR it should only take a little experimenting to work this out. (remember to remove a couple of degrees from what you found as the best spark from the base tables)

[WeathermanShawn]

O.K., Glad to hear it is getting better.

On Fan # 1 & 2. Your IAC Fan Corrections are quite high..B4301 & B4302. I would not go any higher than .25 g/s and .50 g/s. I did what you did at one point, and whenever the fans kicked in it screwed up my Idle too. It is probably learning your new Idle Airflow and all of a sudden the IAC had to open up even more.

I would lower the amounts or just have your fan kick in at a higher ECT while you are getting Idle down..

[joecar]

I'm following along remotely, I'm still outa town...

good job guys :cheers:

[z28ls1818]

well it didnt work. it only made it worse. with new timing table and the new rafpn airflow in park it made warm starts impossible. wont even idle anymore.

[5.7ute]

Post the tune file up.

[WeathermanShawn]

OP:

We are 6 pages into this thread, so forgive me if I lost focus on your original question.

It sounds like you successfully figured out how to log RAFIG and RAFPN. So, others can learn..what did you do to fix it?

Secondly, it might help if you add your modifications to either the thread or preferably your signature. Is your Throttle Body Stock, ported, aftermarket etc. Injector size, etc, holes drilled in TB, etc.

It is always possible that it is not tune-related. Thats why adding your Tune and Log helps more than just a general description of [..its worse now..].

Lastly, RAFIG and RAFPN do not always work perfectly for everybody. At Idle, RAFIG wants to pull 2 g/s from my Desired Airflow. My car would never start with that low of a Desired Air. I use MAF Airflow and Trims along with Fuel and Spark to get my Idle down, with all the Tutorial Airflow methods utilized.

My gut feeling is you are randomly changing things in your tune to see if it works. Post up the exact Tune you used. That is the only way we can help.

..Good luck..

[z28ls1818]

I have no idea how it worked. This time around it just worked. I suspect my obd2 port on the car is bad, every time I a bump it looses communication. I will be replacing this.

The car does idle a lot smoother with upping the spark though. This is still work in progress.



OP:

We are 6 pages into this thread, so forgive me if I lost focus on your original question.

It sounds like you successfully figured out how to log RAFIG and RAFPN. So, others can learn..what did you do to fix it?

Secondly, it might help if you add your modifications to either the thread or preferably your signature. Is your Throttle Body Stock, ported, aftermarket etc. Injector size, etc, holes drilled in TB, etc.

It is always possible that it is not tune-related. Thats why adding your Tune and Log helps more than just a general description of [..its worse now..].

Lastly, RAFIG and RAFPN do not always work perfectly for everybody. At Idle, RAFIG wants to pull 2 g/s from my Desired Airflow. My car would never start with that low of a Desired Air. I use MAF Airflow and Trims along with Fuel and Spark to get my Idle down, with all the Tutorial Airflow methods utilized.

My gut feeling is you are randomly changing things in your tune to see if it works. Post up the exact Tune you used. That is the only way we can help.

..Good luck..

[z28ls1818]

Another thing I want to add. I suspect part or the greater part of the problem is power (electrical).


Every time when the car is barely turned or several minutes later the car idles and I can rev easily without the idle dropping on its face or I can put in reverse without it dropping on it's face. but as soon as the car warms up a little more I notice my battery voltage gauge drops down past the midway point almost to the red part.

Ive noticed when this is the case this is when the idle goes nuts on me. This is just a theory, but I will try to replace the alternator with higher amp rated unit. MY battery is currently relocated to the back of the trunk, so my old alternator which hasnt been replaced in 120 000 miles might be having issues getting power to charge the battery and having the vehicle electrical's run at the same time.

Any opinions on this?

[joecar]

Using a DMM/voltmeter, measure the voltage drop from the positive battery terminal to the positive post next to the fuse panels.