Engine oil pressure

[sinr98]

Hey guys.
I installed a cam, timing chain, pushrods, springs, and ported oil pump a month ago along with some other goodies.
I originally installed the wrong o-ring which the supplier told me was the right one for my truck. I replaced the o-ring with the correct one, and now my oil pressure on the gauge shows at warm idle 60psi and above 3k rpms it's 80+ psi. I logged the engine oil pressure sensor voltage, and looked at a post on how to make it a calculated pid. I haven't had a chance to plug it into the truck to see if the pid is valid now, but I went through the calculations and my average voltage is 2.5v. and ran up to 4.3v at 5600rpm.Are the calculations by calculator the same as on the calc pids? Or are there other equations that aren't visible such as the offset?




I am trying to figure out if I should replace my oil pump because of a sticking oil pressure relief valve, gauge is bad (It does read around 10psi with the key off), or the sensor is bad.

I appreciate all the help I can get on this. I still drive it but haven't gone wot since the cam because of the ? on the oil pressure.

According to this my max psi is 64psi, and my average is 37.2psi.

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?7587-Engine-Oil-Pressure-PID&p=66084&viewfull=1#post66084

[joecar]

The best thing to do is check the EOPS[V] and EOP[psi] pids against a mechanical gauge.

I take it that your EOPS is wired directly to your PCM...?

[johnv]

Get your oil pressure checked with an accurate mechanical gauge.
the factory elecronic gauges aren't that accurate.

[sinr98]

I have known about the factory gauge readings not being that accurate, so I did buy a mechanical gauge. Problem is that the only place I can install it is where the oil pressure sending unit is, and it's pretty tight in there without taking off the intake.

Joe, I believe the EOPS is wired into the PCM, but the ENGOP is wired into the gauge itself. I have a validated PID for the EOPS, and I have another pid that reads the same which is not supported. My ENGOP PID is not validated, but after one of my logs on it I went back and checked it out when I had the ENGOP selected and it did calculate some how. But the range was from like 25psi to 127psi If I remember correct.

How do I add a pid like the one that I used above and map the pid? I am new to this and i'm holding back on my VE tuning till I get this problem or issue resolved. Don't get me wrong, I would rather have higher pressure than lower pressure, but I don't want to blow out my oil filter, or seals. And I would like to know if it's my gauge servo that is bad, or op sensor.

[joecar]

I would trace the wiring from the sensor to the destination and confirm that it is the PCM.

If you know several of the voltage:pressure value pairs, we can create a calculated pid easily...
for example (from post #32 of the thread linked in post #1): calc_pids.txt (http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=6837&d=1260919661)

[sinr98]

So to do that I would need to do a voltage test while a mechanical gauge is hooked up to it, and get the corresponding data. So if at 2.5v I had 40psi and at 4.5v I have 65 we could make the pid that way? I was told that the voltage range is 0v - 5v, but I don't know what the pressure at 5v is. I will see what I can do with this.

[johnv]

You may be able to tap into the pressure side for a manual gauge in one of the plugs down on the sump above your oil filter.

[joecar]

Yes, we can easily make a calc pid, for example:
2.5V=40psi
4.5V=65psi

This is how you derive the equation:
(p-40)/(v-2.5) = (65-40)/(4.5-2.5)
(p-40)/(v-2.5) = 25/2 = 12.5
p - 40 = (v-2.5)*12.5 = v*12.5 - 2.5*12.5 = v*12.5 - 31.25
p = v*12.5 - 31.25 + 40 = v*12.5 + 8.75

so the calc pid would say: {EOPS}*12.5 + 8.75

sanity check, plug v values into the equation to obtain p:
v=2.5 -> p = 40
v=4.5 -> p = 65

[sinr98]

You may be able to tap into the pressure side for a manual gauge in one of the plugs down on the sump above your oil filter.

I looked at putting it there, but it has a oil cooler block from the factory that has hard lines coming from it to the radiator.
I also heard that there was an Allen head bolt on the front drivers side of the block that has the main oil galley behind it, but I can't locate the bolt to verify this.

[sinr98]

Yes, we can easily make a calc pid, for example:
2.5V=40psi
4.5V=65psi

This is how you derive the equation:
(p-40)/(v-2.5) = (65-40)/(4.5-2.5)
(p-40)/(v-2.5) = 25/2 = 12.5
p - 40 = (v-2.5)*12.5 = v*12.5 - 2.5*12.5 = v*12.5 - 31.25
p = v*12.5 - 31.25 + 40 = v*12.5 + 8.75

so the calc pid would say: {EOPS}*12.5 + 8.75

sanity check, plug v values into the equation to obtain p:
v=2.5 -> p = 40
v=4.5 -> p = 65

Thanks for the equations Joe. This is going to be a PITA on my truck. The bad thing is that I don't want to keep the mechanical gauge on the truck after I take the readings and that means that I will have to pull everything back off when I do get it done. I am going to look at a remote oil filter adapter that has the two outlets for the lines, "T" off of one side, and run the hose as a bypass to the other side. This would be my easiest option in my opinion. I won't be running a filter while doing this though, and do you think that will mess up my readings for a calculation?