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voda1
August 17th, 2010, 08:45 AM
Searched not finding what I need. I've done AutoVE and AutoMaf, now I want to follow up with LTFT. My problem is need to use narrow bands because I don't have extra bung for WBO2. Can anybody point me to thread on how it's done?

Gregs
August 17th, 2010, 11:26 AM
why don't you use your wb to simulate the nb sensors? thats what i did and its worked great for me.

joecar
August 17th, 2010, 12:10 PM
+1.

The LC-1 has the yellow channel programmed (factory default) to do this...

connect yellow to NBO signal, and green to NBO signal return.

n8dogg
August 17th, 2010, 01:55 PM
+1.

The LC-1 has the yellow channel programmed (factory default) to do this...

connect yellow to NBO signal, and green to NBO signal return.

So wait, you can do this VS installing the wideband into the exhaust stream? Please explain, I too have the LC-1, just waiting for headers to do the bung install, but I want to use the wideband in the mean time.

n8dogg
August 17th, 2010, 01:56 PM
+1.

The LC-1 has the yellow channel programmed (factory default) to do this...

connect yellow to NBO signal, and green to NBO signal return.

So wait, you can do this VS installing the wideband into the exhaust stream? Please explain, I too have the LC-1, just waiting for headers to do the bung install, but I want to use the wideband in the mean time.

voda1
August 17th, 2010, 01:56 PM
Updated my signature with the wide band am using now - NGK-AFX. Had 2 LC-1 fail. Maybe next summer might consider a LM-1, but for now would like to finish fuel trims.

If one narrow band fails, does that force open loop?

n8dogg
September 22nd, 2010, 09:53 AM
+1.

The LC-1 has the yellow channel programmed (factory default) to do this...

connect yellow to NBO signal, and green to NBO signal return.

Hey Joe,
Can you go a little more into details with this? I have the LC-1, and like I said, am waiting for long tubes to weld the bung in. But if I can use the WB in my NB location and piggy back the NB off the WB. I will do that ASAP.

Is it as easy as splicing into the NB harness with the NB connected? Or do I need to remove the NB completely?

*edit* There is no green wire off my LC-1. Just red, blue, yellow, brown, black, white.

joecar
September 22nd, 2010, 11:17 AM
Hey Joe,
Can you go a little more into details with this? I have the LC-1, and like I said, am waiting for long tubes to weld the bung in. But if I can use the WB in my NB location and piggy back the NB off the WB. I will do that ASAP.

Is it as easy as splicing into the NB harness with the NB connected? Or do I need to remove the NB completely?

*edit* There is no green wire off my LC-1. Just red, blue, yellow, brown, black, white.Get an old NB and cut the wires so you have the connector in your hand...

Then, splice this connector to your LC-1 as follows:
- NB signal hi -> LC-1 yellow,
- NB signal lo -> LC-1 green or LC-1->white.

(there's a thread here showing the pinouts)

Make sure to insulate the splices.

Remove the NB from the header/manifold, and insert your LC-1 with the made-up NB connector

(i.e. the WB completely replaces the NB)

Your LC-1 is already connected to vehicle, right (see quote below)...?



LC-1 red -> switched and fused power/battery,
LC-1 blue -> battery ground,

Also:
LC-1 SERIAL IN <- terminator 2.5mm stereo style plug,
LC-1 SERIAL OUT -> 2.5mm DB9 cable -> null modem adapter -> DB9 RJ12 cable -> FlashScan V2.

Note:
LC-1 black is not ground... this is the positive side of the LED/pushbutton; LC-1 white is the negative side of the LED/pushbutton.

joecar
September 22nd, 2010, 11:28 AM
n8,

See posts #50 and #66: showthread.php?564-LC-1-widband-hook-up (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?564-LC-1-widband-hook-up)

Your connector may look different... is this for your 2002 Z06 (did I get the right year)...? I'll look up the pinouts.

joecar
September 22nd, 2010, 11:35 AM
Be careful, absolutely do not allow the yellow or brown wires to short to anything.

n8dogg
September 23rd, 2010, 09:43 AM
Thanks Joe, my car is an 04, so I have the square shaped 02 sensor connectors. Unfortunately I do not have any laying around. So I placed an order with LG Motorsports for their 02 sensor harness adapters which mate the older style flat connector to the square and I can use that to make my connections.

n8dogg
September 28th, 2010, 11:17 AM
Got her all wired to a square style connector. So the Brown will go to the V2, the black will go to the push button, now what about the serial IN and OUT?

Ah, NVM. I see I am using the serial OUT to the V2, just tape off the Brown and cap the serial IN.

http://www.taquickness.com/taqcables.htm?merchant_return_link=Return+to+Merch ant

That should save me a trip to Radio Shack! Nice.

joecar
September 28th, 2010, 12:33 PM
SERIAL IN <-- 2.5mm blank terminator plug (comes with the LC-1) [serial comms will not function without this ]

n8dogg
September 28th, 2010, 01:21 PM
SERIAL IN <-- 2.5mm blank terminator plug (comes with the LC-1) [serial comms will not function without this ]
got it! In a few days my Serial Out to V2 cable will be here. Hope the weather stays nice for a few more weeks!

voda1
September 29th, 2010, 02:21 AM
Just noticed that LTFT for bank 2 cell 22 is (-100%). I did a reset and all the other values went to zero except for that cell. Could the ecm be bad or maybe a programming error with efilive? Any idea's?

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