a4 4l60e how to tune with new 3600 stall

[z28ls1818]

well my car is running a little better after the idle issues i was having.


anyway my car has a real hard 2nd to 3rd shift (real hard, the tranny builder even thinks it is locking up during the shift).


also when coming to a stop and it downshifts into 1 it is real annoying. the revs jump up when it downshifts to 1st coming to a stop.


does anyone know how to tune for a converter?

[LS1_Dragster]

I have my Yukon shifting pretty good with a 3000 and I used the same parameters with my firebirds 3500 stall. Take my tune and either copy every field over or possibly a segment swap.

Lee

[z28ls1818]

I have my Yukon shifting pretty good with a 3000 and I used the same parameters with my firebirds 3500 stall. Take my tune and either copy every field over or possibly a segment swap.

Lee


have you messed with the line pressures?

i was told not to mess with those.

[LS1_Dragster]

Yes and yes you can! Just dont get carried away. Just give it a shot to see if it gets you going the right direction.

[joecar]

The pressure tables are only effective during shifts.

Make sure your airmass/airflow is good (not calculating low) for non-shift in-gear pressure.

[z28ls1818]

The pressure tables are only effective during shifts.

Make sure your airmass/airflow is good (not calculating low) for non-shift in-gear pressure.


what do you mean? you like make sure rafig and rafpn are fine?

[joecar]

No, make sure VE and MAF are good, log dyncylair, dynair, and trqeng to make sure those are not going abnormally low (or high).

[z28ls1818]

I have my Yukon shifting pretty good with a 3000 and I used the same parameters with my firebirds 3500 stall. Take my tune and either copy every field over or possibly a segment swap.

Lee

i tried this and only seemed to make it worse. now it was making a weird clunking sound right before it downshifted and when it did down shift it made a similar sound. so i just changed it back to the original settings. ATTACHED IS A LOG

[LS1_Dragster]

I'm no expert, but maybe your problem is mechanical.. That tun is very easy going on the shifts and pressures and in no way should cause you adverse issues.

Your log doesn't help me much since what you logged is different then what I log so I cant compare. It did show that your converter is not locking up.

I think you have a wiring issue or something, it just doesn't look right when it increases the pressure on the downshift. Are you sure its a 4L60E?

Will you post your tun file also?

Lee

[z28ls1818]

I'm no expert, but maybe your problem is mechanical.. That tun is very easy going on the shifts and pressures and in no way should cause you adverse issues.

Your log doesn't help me much since what you logged is different then what I log so I cant compare. It did show that your converter is not locking up.




I think you have a wiring issue or something, it just doesn't look right when it increases the pressure on the downshift. Are you sure its a 4L60E?

Will you post your tun file also?

Lee


it could be. i didnt change the pressures. i was told not to by performabuilt http://www.performabuilt.com/ , acording to them the they have already manipulated the pressures and any pressure change in the tune isnt advisable.

The converter is basically brand new and so is the tranny.

[LS1_Dragster]

I understand about the pressures, the Yukon has a shift kit in it so it shifted hard from the start. In fact this tun softens the shift on mine so it's tolerable.

Send me your tun file if you will.

[joecar]

Post your .tun file.

[z28ls1818]

I understand about the pressures, the Yukon has a shift kit in it so it shifted hard from the start. In fact this tun softens the shift on mine so it's tolerable.

Send me your tun file if you will.



wouldnt it be ok to lower the pressures? they say not to raise, but lowering? does your pressure part of the tune lower?

attached is what i used

[z28ls1818]

by the way i know the tc locks at higher speeds fine. it was basically running on stock a4 settings before i did the ls1dragster recommendations minus the pressure settings.

[LS1_Dragster]

I see nothing in your tune that would account for your problems. Maybe set P1870 component slipping to NO. I'm still leaning towards a mechanical/electrical problem. Maybe others will know what PIDs to log that would help diagnose this.

Lee

[z28ls1818]

I see nothing in your tune that would account for your problems. Maybe set P1870 component slipping to NO. I'm still leaning towards a mechanical/electrical problem. Maybe others will know what PIDs to log that would help diagnose this.

Lee

what would turning that code do?

i dont have that code right now. so why would i even bother with that?

[LS1_Dragster]

Here is the PID's I use when logging the trans and also the dashboard 'B' to display. Rename it from .txt to .vdp

This might help....

[z28ls1818]

I see nothing in your tune that would account for your problems. Maybe set P1870 component slipping to NO. I'm still leaning towards a mechanical/electrical problem. Maybe others will know what PIDs to log that would help diagnose this.

Lee


it is already set to no.

[LS1_Dragster]

You do have that code, it turns on max trans pressure if it detects slipping. Do a search for that number in the navigator window, upper left side of the screen.

[LS1_Dragster]

I'm looking right at your tun file and it's set to yes! Do another search, sometimes the numbers show up in 2 places.

[z28ls1818]

I'm looking right at your tun file and it's set to yes! Do another search, sometimes the numbers show up in 2 places.

what part you looking at transmission dtcs?

[z28ls1818]

I'm looking right at your tun file and it's set to yes! Do another search, sometimes the numbers show up in 2 places.


nvm found it. what would this do?

i doubt mechanical because. the settings that i moved made the tranny act worse. so there must be settings that will make it act better.

[z28ls1818]

what would happen if i put d2801 to yes?

[LS1_Dragster]

The issue is this, your stock settings didnt work, my settings on my 3 vehicles works fine but not with yours and there have been others that have used the trans segment and it worked great for them. This can only mean that there is a mechanical/electrical problem with your setup in my humble opinion.

Go do a run with my trans PID and lets see what it shows.

[LS1_Dragster]

what would happen if i put d2801 to yes?

Make shifts so hard it most likely will break something.

[z28ls1818]

[QUOTE=LS1_Dragster;128175]The issue is this, your stock settings didnt work, my settings on my 3 vehicles works fine but not with yours and there have been others that have used the trans segment and it worked great for them. This can only mean that there is a mechanical/electrical problem with your setup in my humble opinion.

Go do a run with my trans PID and lets see what it shows.[/QU


will do this tomorrow.

[z28ls1818]

Make shifts so hard it most likely will break something.

one more thing below is a list of things that i think can help let me know.


D0705 (if i lower the amounts below 0 on this table, in theory it should reduce torque right? maybe it has too much torque when down shifting)

D1502 (when i put the car in reverse in morning when its cold it goes into reverse fine without idle dip, but once it gets hotter it dips pretty low. if up the pressure here, it should not dip as much when put into reverse correct?)

D1503 same thing as above.

[joecar]

Give those 3 a try.

[joecar]

Are you running boost...?

If not, then VE table looks weird, but I don't think that's causing high pressure.

[joecar]

Harsh 2->3 shift...

Try this:
set D1102 to -30 psi.
set D1107 to 0 psi.
set D0802 to 40%.
set D1109 to 0.4s.
set D0960-2 to 100%.
set C6001 P1380, P1381 to Not Reported.
set E0101 P1870 to No.
set E0102 P1870 to No.

[joecar]

Are you running with the MAF...?

[z28ls1818]

This log was from the morning driving to work. Let me know. I checked the fluid level and it was fine when hot and in park. I added a little just in case, it seemed to have ran a little better, but that can just be in my head(like when I wash my car it feels new lol)

[LS1_Dragster]

There's just a couple of issues:

1) The TCC never locks and looking at the data it shows TCC off due to missfire
2) I'm not sure if dropping the pressure is such a good idea on the 2-3 and 3-4 shift, these clutch packs are already prone to burning up.

I assume that with the shift kit increasing the pressure it would still show up on the TFMPRS PID and if that's the case then I think the pressure is too low. You tranny guros out there please correct me...

Lee

[z28ls1818]

Joecar - yes im running maf


ls1dragster -

These are my mods, the misfire is most likely the cam. Car runs fine and good, no power loss or anything, its just the tranny thing. Do you think the tcc not locking could cause this? Can the misfire set the tranny into a mode where it would give me lower pressures like you said?

If so I can raise the Missfire threshold table so that the tcc and lock.

GM ASA cam 226/236 110 lsa .525 lift
cnc'd heads
fast 90 90
headers with catted y pipe
ud pulley
yank ss3600
performabuilt level 2 4l65e

[z28ls1818]

i spoke to peformabuilt. They say the little clunk i get from 2-1 is normal. Since they replace a spring with a steel one or something like that. So im good on that issue.

He said to try to raise the shiftpoint from 2-3 a little higher. What do you guys think?

[LS1_Dragster]

Honestly this is geting out of my comfort zone. I dont what to give you bad information. The TCC not locking will not, it just makes it more enjoyable to drive with less RPM.

Without know everything about your setup I cant answer your questions. I do know this though, in my dragster with a fairly large (237/242) cam I do not have any missfires.

[z28ls1818]

Honestly this is geting out of my comfort zone. I dont what to give you bad information. The TCC not locking will not, it just makes it more enjoyable to drive with less RPM.

Without know everything about your setup I cant answer your questions. I do know this though, in my dragster with a fairly large (237/242) cam I do not have any missfires.


The missfire thing on ls1's is fairly common over on ls1tech. It's also a performance built tranny so it wont shift like stock. It can be something simple like my motor mounts are shot, which i think is going on.

I appreciate your help, any advise you give me I'll try without holding anybody acountable. I understand that everything you give is just advise and is based on what has worked for you.

[Taz]

Hello Z28LS818,

I’m still getting used to the EFILive software – you’re in good hands with LS1_Dragster and Joecar regarding its use. My experience, like many, is in the mechanical aspect of the process.

It seems that you currently have many variables, potentially preventing (at least slowing) the process of sorting out the transmission component of the tune.

Regarding the misfire …. the following is an excerpt from the GM service manual:

“On automatic equipped vehicles, the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) will disable whenever a misfire is detected. Disabling the TCC isolates the engine from the rest of the drive line and minimizes the effect of the drive wheel inputs on crankshaft rotation. When the TCC has disabled as a result of misfire detection, the TCC will re-enable after approximately 3200 engine revolutions if no misfire is detected. The TCC remains disabled whenever the misfire is detected, with or without a DTC set. This allows the misfire diagnostic to re-evaluate the system.”

The short version is – addressing the misfire may assist with sorting out the auto trans …

From the tune you posted it looks like you have a ’98 Camaro with an ’02 OS. You also mentioned running the GM ASA cam. I’ve seen dyno pulls with this cam, and it definitely has a “sweet spot” in the midrange. The tight lobe separate angle (110) can cause idle / low speed tuning challenges.

As a reference, there is a 2000 Corvette (ASA) manual trans tune on the HoldenCrazy website – it uses OS 09381344 (2000 model year OS). There may be an answer to some of the misfire / DTC issues here.

I use TransGo HD-2 shift kits, Corvette 2nd gear servos, and billet 4th gear servos, and a few other little mods in all 4L60E / 4L65E transmissions. The manufacture has recommendations for changes to the tune to work with their kit. These are recommendations, and I find they rarely (if ever) provide the required shift qualities. Joecar posted a Trans Tuning Tutorial a while back – I have used this and other input, with good success.

The short version is – despite the input of your transmission builder, your car is unique, and your tune will definitely be unique.


Regards,
Taz

[joecar]

Harsh 2->3 shift...

Try this:
set D1102 to -30 psi.
set D1107 to 0 psi.
set D0802 to 40%.
set D1109 to 0.4s.
set D0960-2 to 100%.
set C6001 P1380, P1381 to Not Reported.
set E0101 P1870 to No.
set E0102 P1870 to No.Let us know if those changed anything.

[z28ls1818]

Let us know if those changed anything.




This is what I did. I changed the shift times to higher speeds for 2-3 3-4. It seemed to work atleast anything below 12%tps. Anything above 12% generates to much engine torqe which gives me 100+torque. In frame 21145 you can see where the tps % is and the engine torque, this as the only time it gave me the hard shift agian. So my question for this would be do I raise the shift speed during 12%, it is currently set at 27 during this period. But this speed works better during lower tps % which has less torque (look at log to see what I mean). So if i raise it more it should give me the same effect it gave me in the lower tps % or should I do torque reduction to try to manipulate the torque it likes which is 80 or less? I would think its better to raise the shift speed to see if I get the same effect, instead of reducing torque.
What do you guys think?


Attached is the log and the tune I was running. Disregard the torque reduction tables, I changed those after I did my run, but now I'm thinking its better to raise the shift speed instead of torque management. Same questions above, let me know what you guys think.

[joecar]

Try some of both, see how it goes.

[z28ls1818]

Try some of both, see how it goes.



Check the tune out. Should I lower the torque reduction #s that i added on there or should i try those for the 2-3 shift? Those #s along wtih a higher mph.

Let me know

[z28ls1818]

I saw the tune, spark is definately way different than mine. Also the misfire tables are way different. What do you guys thing about this tune.


Hello Z28LS818,

I’m still getting used to the EFILive software – you’re in good hands with LS1_Dragster and Joecar regarding its use. My experience, like many, is in the mechanical aspect of the process.

It seems that you currently have many variables, potentially preventing (at least slowing) the process of sorting out the transmission component of the tune.

Regarding the misfire …. the following is an excerpt from the GM service manual:

“On automatic equipped vehicles, the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) will disable whenever a misfire is detected. Disabling the TCC isolates the engine from the rest of the drive line and minimizes the effect of the drive wheel inputs on crankshaft rotation. When the TCC has disabled as a result of misfire detection, the TCC will re-enable after approximately 3200 engine revolutions if no misfire is detected. The TCC remains disabled whenever the misfire is detected, with or without a DTC set. This allows the misfire diagnostic to re-evaluate the system.”

The short version is – addressing the misfire may assist with sorting out the auto trans …

From the tune you posted it looks like you have a ’98 Camaro with an ’02 OS. You also mentioned running the GM ASA cam. I’ve seen dyno pulls with this cam, and it definitely has a “sweet spot” in the midrange. The tight lobe separate angle (110) can cause idle / low speed tuning challenges.

As a reference, there is a 2000 Corvette (ASA) manual trans tune on the HoldenCrazy website – it uses OS 09381344 (2000 model year OS). There may be an answer to some of the misfire / DTC issues here.

I use TransGo HD-2 shift kits, Corvette 2nd gear servos, and billet 4th gear servos, and a few other little mods in all 4L60E / 4L65E transmissions. The manufacture has recommendations for changes to the tune to work with their kit. These are recommendations, and I find they rarely (if ever) provide the required shift qualities. Joecar posted a Trans Tuning Tutorial a while back – I have used this and other input, with good success.

The short version is – despite the input of your transmission builder, your car is unique, and your tune will definitely be unique.


Regards,
Taz

[joecar]

Try this experiment:

copy the transmission segment from a stock 2002 Camaro (attached):
- open your .tun file,
- open the stock file as the alternate,
- go Edit->Copy Entire Segment->Transmission,
- save file,
- do full flash to PCM.

Do this and see what happens.

[joecar]

I saw the tune, spark is definately way different than mine. Also the misfire tables are way different. What do you guys thing about this tune.If you're are not boosted then the VE table is strange, it doesn't look right...

what cam specs...?

[z28ls1818]

I have been running on a stock transmission tune. That is what is giving the hard shifts.



Try this experiment:

copy the transmission segment from a stock 2002 Camaro (attached):
- open your .tun file,
- open the stock file as the alternate,
- go Edit->Copy Entire Segment->Transmission,
- save file,
- do full flash to PCM.

Do this and see what happens.

[z28ls1818]

If you're are not boosted then the VE table is strange, it doesn't look right...

what cam specs...?

226 236 .525 lift 110 lsa

[joecar]

That cam would make peak torque at something like 4800-5300 rpm (I'm guessing)...?

The VE table has to kinda look like the torque curve for each MAP slice.

But, with regards to the harsh 2->3 shift you're running from the MAF.

Did you change the MAF and/or MAF plumbing at all...?


You might want to copy/paste the MAF table from the stock file and include this with the experiment.


If the experiment does not fix the problem, then you might have to tell the trans builder that with a stock trans calibration your 2->3 is harsh.

[joecar]

In C6001 set P1380 and P1381 to Not Reported.
In C6002 set P1380 and P1381 to MIL.

I hoping that those settings will allow the TCC to be commanded.

[joecar]

Set D1101,2,3 to minus 30 psi.
Set D1107 to zero.

[z28ls1818]

That cam would make peak torque at something like 4800-5300 rpm (I'm guessing)...?

The VE table has to kinda look like the torque curve for each MAP slice.

But, with regards to the harsh 2->3 shift you're running from the MAF.

Did you change the MAF and/or MAF plumbing at all...? Yes, first the table was set to z06 table since its an 85mm maf, then it was maf tuned, the tables changed a bit


You might want to copy/paste the MAF table from the stock file and include this with the experiment.


If the experiment does not fix the problem, then you might have to tell the trans builder that with a stock trans calibration your 2->3 is harsh.



replied to question

[z28ls1818]

In C6001 set P1380 and P1381 to Not Reported.
In C6002 set P1380 and P1381 to MIL.

I hoping that those settings will allow the TCC to be commanded.

will try this in the morning

[z28ls1818]

Set D1101,2,3 to minus 30 psi.
Set D1107 to zero.

d1101 2 3 set all the values to -30?

d1107 all values to zero?

[z28ls1818]

maf calibrations from a z06 or a truck maf is way off from what i have in my actual tune. My current maf is from an 03 silverado, it originally came with a screen, but i took it off. Should i bout the z06 maf calibration in there or the truck maf (note that i took the screen off)


That cam would make peak torque at something like 4800-5300 rpm (I'm guessing)...?

The VE table has to kinda look like the torque curve for each MAP slice.

But, with regards to the harsh 2->3 shift you're running from the MAF.

Did you change the MAF and/or MAF plumbing at all...?


You might want to copy/paste the MAF table from the stock file and include this with the experiment.


If the experiment does not fix the problem, then you might have to tell the trans builder that with a stock trans calibration your 2->3 is harsh.

[joecar]

Hmmm... you have a Z06 MAF, I'm not decided yet which MAF table you should try.

[joecar]

d1101 2 3 set all the values to -30?

d1107 all values to zero?Yes on all 4.

[joecar]

I have been running on a stock transmission tune. That is what is giving the hard shifts.Ok, in that case, do a full flash (just one this time) of your current .tun file...

I'm trying to rule out something getting corrupted in the trans segment.

[joecar]

Summary:

set D1101,2,3 to all -30 psi.
set D1107 to all zero psi.
set D0701,2,3 15% lower (i.e. modify by -15%).
set D0801,2,3 to all 60%.
set D1108,9,10 to all 0.4s.
set D0960-2 to all 100%.
set C6001 P1380, P1381 to Not Reported.
set C6002 P1380, P1381 to MIL.
set E0101 P1870 to No.
set E0102 P1870 to No.

Set all of these, do a full flash, and see if there's any difference.

Post .tun file and new logs.


Set B5001 to stock Z06 MAF table, see if there's any difference; then repeat experiment with stock Z28 MAF table.

[LS1_Dragster]

Hey joecar - what looks wrong with his MAP values? Just trying to learn.....

The only thing that catches my attention is the vacuum at idle is really low compared to my dragster. The dragster with a 237/242 cam idles with a MAP value of 53 and his cam is 226/236 and the MAP value of 62. I have that size cam in my firebird and it's MAP value is 48. We are up in altitude so my MAP value with key on and not running is between 84 and 85!

[joecar]

Lee,

Hmmm, he might have a vacuum leak.

In his .tun file look at his VE B0101 table, what are your thoughts on this...?

[it looks like a boost VE table, but he's not running any boost] [apparently this VE was arrived at by AutoVE]

Also, you can see the MAF table has been edited, I'm wondering if this is overcomputing the airmass, causing line pressure to be calc'd high just when 2->3 shift comes...?

[LS1_Dragster]

"he might have a vacuum leak" - Or tuned poorly so the MAP figures are not correct. I know when I would run too lean at idle the MAP values would increase(vacuum would drop) and go to a richer cell to the right, this would keep it running. There's a happy balance there to keep the engine happy.

Another thing I do to make the engine happy with large cams is set the timing to a fixed number at idle, the dragster is 35 degrees flat lined, the firebird is 25. It really smooths out the chop. His is jumping from 16 to 33 at idle. Others may not agree with me on this though.

His VE values are far different then my 3 cars. The dragster VE peaks at 5600RPM, firebird at 3600 and the Yukon at 4000. His Peaks around 6000RPM. Your right, it should be peaking much lower if the AutoVE was done correctly with a WBO2.

It may be wise to put a stock tune back in and start from scratch...

[WeathermanShawn]

Lee,

In his .tun file look at his VE B0101 table, what are your thoughts on this...?

[it looks like a boost VE table, but he's not running any boost] [apparently this VE was arrived at by AutoVE]

Also, you can see the MAF table has been edited,

I have tried to stay away from this thread for several reasons. One it is an Auto, second I contributed a lot to a previous thread from the OP. Pet peeve of mine is when someone 'solves' a problem and never post what fixed it (Idle). That frustrates numerous readers.



Anyhow, I am not sure on his Idle MAP. Like you Dragster, I am at altitude and Idle at 45 kPa with 10 degrees of overlap. So hard to say on that one. Joe, that VE Table mysteriously looks like an old VE Table I once had, except that it is about 5% higher in value than mine. And that is with running High-Compression Heads with just 200cc runners. Personally, it looks mathematically derived or constructed in a manner other than a strict AUTOVE.
I mean it looks almost identical to my H/C tune, along with the MAF Calibration Table...:sly:..

OP, it would be nice if you could help others and let them know how you solved your Idle problem, which was also a lengthy thread. I also agree that your VE Table and MAF Table look like they do not agree with your set-up.

Any comments?

Respectfully..

WeathermanShawn..

[z28ls1818]

I have tried to stay away from this thread for several reasons. One it is an Auto, second I contributed a lot to a previous thread from the OP. Pet peeve of mine is when someone 'solves' a problem and never post what fixed it (Idle). That frustrates numerous readers.



Anyhow, I am not sure on his Idle MAP. Like you Dragster, I am at altitude and Idle at 45 kPa with 10 degrees of overlap. So hard to say on that one. Joe, that VE Table mysteriously looks like an old VE Table I once had, except that it is about 5% higher in value than mine. And that is with running High-Compression Heads with just 200cc runners. Personally, it looks mathematically derived or constructed in a manner other than a strict AUTOVE.
I mean it looks almost identical to my H/C tune, along with the MAF Calibration Table...:sly:..

OP, it would be nice if you could help others and let them know how you solved your Idle problem, which was also a lengthy thread. I also agree that your VE Table and MAF Table look like they do not agree with your set-up.

Any comments?

Respectfully..

WeathermanShawn..



My idle issue are NOT resolved. With the current tune it is better, but not fixed.

I have been suspecting for a while that the car wasn't properly tuned. My tuner did use a wideband, I watched the whole process and it seemed like he did everything correctly.


Weatherman, it almost seemed like your implying that I stole your tune. Trust me it's not the case, the maf was logged and those are the #'s that came out of the automaf. Oh, I updated the thread about the idle issue.

I'am no expert and I did not tune my own car. I simply watched and tried to learn, I picked up on a few things.

We checked for vacuum leaks and none were found. IS THERE A RECOMMENDED METHOD TO DO THIS?

[WeathermanShawn]

No, I am just saying that after two years and 30K miles of tuning, one knows his own tune. Some of the VE Tables & MAF were identical to the decimal point. Personally, I do not care..it may make deciphering someones current problems a little more difficult. As long as a sponsor properly attributes a source, I see no problem.

But, I thank you for completing your Idle post. It lets readers know the proper conclusion of a thread.

As far as your shift difficulties, I will stick to the premise that your VE Table/MAF does not appear to match your set-up. It is a very aggressive airflow model that matches a H/C set-up or boost. That may be contributing to your difficulties.

I appreciate your honesty. I think we may have to start your tune from scratch. Hopefully, that will not offend you. I think I and other can help.

Let us know..

[goldbergv95]

Try setting your D2903 to 90 and D2904 to 100 to see if that helps.

[z28ls1818]

No, I am just saying that after two years and 30K miles of tuning, one knows his own tune. Some of the VE Tables & MAF were identical to the decimal point. Personally, I do not care..it may make deciphering someones current problems a little more difficult. As long as a sponsor properly attributes a source, I see no problem.

But, I thank you for completing your Idle post. It lets readers know the proper conclusion of a thread.

As far as your shift difficulties, I will stick to the premise that your VE Table/MAF does not appear to match your set-up. It is a very aggressive airflow model that matches a H/C set-up or boost. That may be contributing to your difficulties.

I appreciate your honesty. I think we may have to start your tune from scratch. Hopefully, that will not offend you. I think I and other can help.

Let us know..


Weatherman,

I appreciate the help, I really really really do. At this point I honestly dont think I can do a tune from scratch (noob). I would prefer to reseal the fast 90 and double check everything to make sure it is nice and tight. Along with putting on some new spark plugs and wires (new truck coils as well). What I do notice is on fbodys when I unplug the port on the right side of the manifold, I think it is called the fuel evap port. Anyhow when I unplug and plug with my finger, I notice the car idle so much smoother, it just seems to like it. Unfortunately I need that, so I cant plug it up with a cap.

Below are the logs we recorded during auto ve and maf tuning.

[z28ls1818]

No, I am just saying that after two years and 30K miles of tuning, one knows his own tune. Some of the VE Tables & MAF were identical to the decimal point. Personally, I do not care..it may make deciphering someones current problems a little more difficult. As long as a sponsor properly attributes a source, I see no problem.

But, I thank you for completing your Idle post. It lets readers know the proper conclusion of a thread.

As far as your shift difficulties, I will stick to the premise that your VE Table/MAF does not appear to match your set-up. It is a very aggressive airflow model that matches a H/C set-up or boost. That may be contributing to your difficulties.

I appreciate your honesty. I think we may have to start your tune from scratch. Hopefully, that will not offend you. I think I and other can help.

Let us know..



My car is a H/C car.

226 236 110lsa .525 lift

85mm maf

longtubes with catted Y

ud pulley

a4/3600 stall

fast 90 90mm

85mm lid

k/n filter

[WeathermanShawn]

It stands to reason we would have similar VE/MAF curves. Both are H/C autos with similar cams. Though my VE table peaks about 4800-5200 Rpm's (per TQ curve). In all honesty, if you are running MAF, by that RPM it is being largely if not totally controlled by how accurate your MAF tuning is.

I do not know enough about autos to contribute to your solving your current problem. If you figure it out, I think it is a good idea to share any solution you may have come up with.
Thanks for straightening out the confusion. I wish you nothing but good luck in your project!:cheers:

[z28ls1818]

Ok, I managed to get the shifts to where they are not SUPER crisp to the point they were making my rear view mirror move.

I'll post tune later.

What I did is I upped the torque reduction on the 2-3 shift and raised the shift vss speed for the 2-3 along with the rest so they wont get in the way of each other. In other words I raised shift vss speeds for everything so they pcm wont try to shift at the same speeds as 2-3 and 4-3 for example.

Shifts are still firm crisp but not the way they were. I'm happy with the improvement and I understand it probably wont get better. It is a performance tranny after all.

[joecar]

On a a scale of 1 (soft "did it shift?") to 10 (hard "pull mirror off windshield") what do you rate each of the shifts...?

How much throttle do you need to spin tires during a shift...?

[z28ls1818]

On a a scale of 1 (soft "did it shift?") to 10 (hard "pull mirror off windshield") what do you rate each of the shifts...?

How much throttle do you need to spin tires during a shift...?

it is shifting into second gear at 27mph. on a scale of 1-10 it is at about 5-6

[joecar]

If the 1->2 shift is so hard, and a shift kit has been installed, then the 1-2 accumulator may be too tight (too many washers on the spring)... you might ask your trans builder about this.