Wiring L92 with O2 sensors

[68problemchild]

Newbie here so forgive the basic question.

I purchased EFI live, and a separate LC-1 02 sensor. Putting in the new harness, it also has two plugs for O2 sensors.

I am putting the harness in over the next two weeks from Current performance.

Do I plug the O2 sensors into my new harness or keep it separate? If the harness, I need another sensor, one for each header yes?

thanks so much.

[Taz]

Hello,

You have an L92 6.2L GenIV ?? In OEM form you'll have an ECM (PCM) and TCM, and the wiring harness. In OEM form you need 4 O2 sensors - one pre & post cat in each bank. If you have a custom tune, with the rear O2 sensors disabled (they only measure cat performance for emissions purposes), then you require an O2 sensor in each bank - between the engine and the cat. OEM O2 sensors are "narrow" band - these monitor the AFR when in closed loop, and relay this information to the ECM (PCM), which may "trim" fuel as is necessary.

The LC-1 O2 sensor you mentioned - is that a wide band O2 (for use with AFR measuring equipment) ?? If so, it is not compatible for use in providing feedback to the ECM (PCM).


Regards,
Taz

[joecar]

The LC-1 is a wideband oxygen (WBO) sensor for measuring lambda for tuning purposes.

The GM ECM uses narrowband oxygen (NBO) sensors to trim the AFR (closed loop feedback).

The LC-1 is able to emulate NBO sensors; it has 2 outputs:
- WB signal, used by tuning/logging tools (like EFILive);
- NB signal, used by the ECM to trim the AFR.

So, you could have 2x LC-1's if you wanted to spend $200 each... it's cheaper to use NBO sensors and have just one LC-1.

[68problemchild]

Yes, I already have the $200 LC-1. Engine is not stock/custom tune, L-92 6.2 gen IV with VVT and custom cam. Can you recommend a single sensor NBO? Should it match the brand of the LC-1 or doesn't it matter? Should it match the stock ones used precat? No cats here obviously.

Thanks so much for the help.

[Taz]

The most cost effective option is the use of OEM type NBO in each bank. That leaves your LC-1 available for tuning use, for this vehicle, or any other vehicle you may wish to tune. You can usually purchase the required NBO at NAPA, Autozone, etc. - doesn't have to be from GM. Check out www.gmpartsdirect.com (http://www.gmpartsdirect.com) they often have very competitive prices.

Regards,
Taz

[68problemchild]

The LC-1 will be dedicated to this vehicle.

The plug from the car is two black, white and a blue.

Wires from the LC-1 are :
Black
Red
Blue
White
Yellow
Brown

Anyone know which goes to which?

Then I assume some portion plugs into the EFI Live V2 Flash scan?

Thanks so much for the help here.

PS, I bought and installed a bosch unit for the drivers side today so that side is covered.

[joecar]

Vehicle is what/year/model... (I need that to look up the wiring diagrams).

[68problemchild]

The engine is originally from a 2007 Cadillac escalade. 6.2 Liter aluminum V8.

[joecar]

The engine is originally from a 2007 Cadillac escalade. 6.2 Liter aluminum V8.This is what your harness is...?

[68problemchild]

Harness is from current performance. Hooker headers came with 02 extensions. Two black, one white, one blue which line up with the harness wires. Only one way to put the plug in.

Harness 4 wires are black/white stripe, red, brown/white stripe, and purple/white stripe. However not sure if current performance matched original L92 colors.

The driver side hooked up as follows:


Current perf harness = Hooker o2 extension = Bosch sensor

Black white stripe = black = White
Red = black = white
Brown white stripe = white = grey
Purple white = blue = black




Thanks!!

[joecar]

Well, the OEM wiring schematic shows different colors than your harness.

Something that might help is the connector endviews, this shows what each pin does, see attached.

[joecar]

For NBO2 signal emulation:

...

Wires from the LC-1 are :
Black
Red --> switch/fused battery power
Blue --> battery ground
White --> NBO2 signal low
Yellow --> NBO2 signal high
Brown
...
Then see this for LC-1 --> V2 serial AFR: serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?9340-serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2)

Forum member TAQuickness (http://forum.efilive.com/member.php?526-TAQuickness) may have one-piece ready-made LC-1 serial cables for sale, see his sig.

[68problemchild]

Thanks so much for the help.

This is pretty confusing.

Any way to take the Lc-1 serial cable 3 wire and put them directly to the orange pins (1, 2, 5?) on the flash scan unit?

[joecar]

No the V2 orange connectors are analog.

The LC-1 serial 3 wire is digital (serial protocol).

Do you have these:
- V2 DB9->RJ6 serial cable,
- LC-1 DB9->2.5mm cable,
- LC-1 2.5mm dead-end terminator plug.

You should have those (they came with your LC-1 and V2)...

then all you need is the orange null-modem adapter show here (under $3.00): serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?9340-serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2&p=81205&viewfull=1#post81205)

You use the null-modem adapter to connect the LC-1 serial cable to the V2 serial cable.

LC-1 SERIAL OUT --> LC-1 serial cable --> null-modem adapter --> V2 serial cable --> V2
LC-1 SERIAL IN <-- 2.5mm terminator

And then on the V2 LCD, you have to go into Options and configure the serial port for LC-1 wideband.

[68problemchild]

I do have those cables.

Roger that. Getting null adaptor but.....

I notice the harness only has ONE 02 sensor female. So I guess that one is for the stock Narrow band I purchased and installed in the drivers side header?

Then I just use the LC-1 set up on the passenger side and log data direct into EFI live?


Thanks again guys. Should be first start in a week or two.

[joecar]

Your harness should have a NBO2 socket for each bank (i.e. two sockets).

The LC-1 wideband function logs directly to EFILive V2 (via the serial cables with null-modem adapter).

The LC-1 narrowband function will be providing the NBO2 signal for one bank...

A real narrowband O2 sensor will provide the NBO2 signal for the other bank...

i.e. your harness should have 2 NBO2 sockets.

[joecar]

Before you install your LC-1 into your vehicle, lay it out on your garage floor, connect it to a car battery (use a fused jumper wire), connect it to V2, power V2 from the OBD-II connector, you should get communications from the LC-1 displayed on your V2's LCD and see that it is reading 20% O2 (i.e air)...

then lightly spray brake cleaner into a rag, and cover the sensor with the rag (the heated O2 sensor gives off heat which oxidizes the brake cleaner), you will see the V2 display a rich reading, remove the rag and V2 displays air again.

Important: the 2.5mm terminator plug is required.

Warning: do not allow the yellow or brown wires to short anywhere, tape each of them up to avoid this.

[68problemchild]

Found pass sensor.

PU high 02
Tan low 02
Grn htr low
PK bat switch

Is what the schematic says from Current performance.

What happens to the remaining two wires from LC-1? eg the black and brown?

Thanks again guys. You all have been really patient.

[joecar]

black -> pushbutton(+) and/or LED anode(+)
white -> pushbutton(-) and/or LED cathode(-)

The LED indicates the state of the LC-1, you may choose not to use this since the state is digitally available from V2.
The pushbutton initiates free air calibration, you don't really need this since it can also be commanded from V2.

brown -> gauge(+) or analog logger(+)
white -> gauge(-) or analog logger (-)

You don't really need brown for anything.

[joecar]

Found pass sensor.

PU high 02
Tan low 02
Grn htr low
PK bat switch

...Those colors actually match the bank 2 sensor 1 (B2S1) in the .pdf posted above.

[68problemchild]

OK guys. I have all this stuff. Wide band on the pass side, NB O2 stock on the drivers side. Just need a quick walk through on initial baselining. I put these in open air then reset them using the V2? thanks!!!! Also do I tell the V2 this is an LC-1 type sensor on the pass side?

This is from above.................then all you need is the orange null-modem adapter show here (under $3.00): serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2

You use the null-modem adapter to connect the LC-1 serial cable to the V2 serial cable.

LC-1 SERIAL OUT --> LC-1 serial cable --> null-modem adapter --> V2 serial cable --> V2
LC-1 SERIAL IN <-- 2.5mm terminator

And then on the V2 LCD, you have to go into Options and configure the serial port for LC-1 wideband. [/I][/SIZE]

[joecar]

OK guys. I have all this stuff. Wide band on the pass side, NB O2 stock on the drivers side. Just need a quick walk through on initial baselining. I put these in open air then reset them using the V2? thanks!!!! Also do I tell the V2 this is an LC-1 type sensor on the pass side?

...With the LC-1 you need to do two things:

1. heater calibration:
- un-plug the sensor from the LC-1 controller, and power up the controller for a moment;
- remove power, and re-plug the sensor back into the controller;
- the next time the controller is powered up it calibrates itself to the sensor's heater (allow it about 30-60 seconds to do this).
Do this anytime you replace the sensor.

2. free air calibration:
- expose the sensor to free/clean air;
- power up LC-1 controller;
- connect V2 to vehicle OBD-II port,
- on V2 go F2 Scan Tool->F1 Data Logging->F3 Display WO2 and select the controller;
- press the power button (circle with vertical bar, overlays the zero key),
- it asks "Do free air calibration?", press the Yes button (allow about 30 seconds to finish),
- when finished, on the display you should see 20%,
- remove power from LC-1 and allow it to cool down;
- re-install sensor.
Do this periodically every few months.


You do those two steps on the LC-1 wideband... you don't/can't do those to the NBO2.


Before you can do step 2. you need to configure your V2, see post #8 of this thread: showthread.php?14351-BBL-PIDs-V2 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?14351-BBL-PIDs-V2&p=128785#post128785)

[joecar]

Do you have the 2.5mm blank plug terminator...?

[68problemchild]

Thanks. No "COM in" or "COM out" on my screen but it does have "Com port" which I set to "Wide O2". The rest is set as you described. I do have the orange null modem adapter if this answers your latter question.

On the V2 LCD/keypad go F4 Options->F1 Setup->F1 Edit Settings and set the following:
Ser PIDs -> YES
COM In -> Wide-O2
COM Out -> Wide-O2
WO2 Type -> Innovate
WO2 Format -> Both
WO2 Data -> AFR & EQ

[joecar]

What about the 2.5mm blank stereo plug/terminator that came with your LC-1...? This need to be plugged into the LC-1's SERIAL IN.

[joecar]

Thanks. No "COM in" or "COM out" on my screen but it does have "Com port" which I set to "Wide O2". The rest is set as you described. I do have the orange null modem adapter if this answers your latter question.

On the V2 LCD/keypad go F4 Options->F1 Setup->F1 Edit Settings and set the following:
Ser PIDs -> YES
COM In -> Wide-O2
COM Out -> Wide-O2
WO2 Type -> Innovate
WO2 Format -> Both
WO2 Data -> AFR & EQCOM In/Out is from the older firmware...

[68problemchild]

W02 not found. At the top it says "Innovoate(1)WO2" not found. "Innovate (2) WO2" not found.

Is it possible I have the wrong bank?

Current setup


LC-1 to "out" to Cable to null modem to cable to V2. Put stub plug in "IN" stereo plug.
Hey, Tach is working though!!!! Woo hooo.
Thanks.

[joecar]

Did you set comm type to wideband...?

Are you using an actual null modem adapter (it must say "null modem" on it) and not just an adapter...?

Try setting WO2 Format to single.

Is V2 plugged into vehicle ODB-II port...?

Is LC-1 being powered up...?

Is the stub plug all the way into SERIAL IN (sometimes it sticks and needs an extra push to get it all the way in, put a small dab of oil on it).

[68problemchild]

Did you set comm type to wideband...? "Cpm Port" is set to "Wide O2"
Are you using an actual null modem adapter (it must say "null modem" on it) and not just an adapter...? Will verfiy. Its the one you all spec'd in.
Try setting WO2 Format to single. Will try.

Is V2 plugged into vehicle ODB-II port...? yes.

Is LC-1 being powered up...? How can you tell? I did not install the little led light.

Is the stub plug all the way into SERIAL IN (sometimes it sticks and needs an extra push to get it all the way in, put a small dab of oil on it). Will verify.

Thank you.

[joecar]

It might be good to connect the LED.

[68problemchild]

Still have to do the led but:


Did you set comm type to wideband...? "Cpm Port" is set to "Wide O2"
Are you using an actual null modem adapter (it must say "null modem" on it) and not just an adapter...? Verifed.
Try setting WO2 Format to single. No option for single. Bank 1, Bank2 or Both. Tried bank 1. It was on bank 2.

Is V2 plugged into vehicle ODB-II port...? yes.

Is LC-1 being powered up...? How can you tell? I did not install the little led light.

Is the stub plug all the way into SERIAL IN (sometimes it sticks and needs an extra push to get it all the way in, put a small dab of oil on it). Verified.

[joecar]

On your V2 can you see the LC-1 reporting AFR/Lambda...?

[68problemchild]

Sorry newbie. How do you navigate to AFR/Lambda on V2? I assume it has to be hooked to LC-1 but not necessarily the laptop?

Also, getting error now on Scan tool....It cannot read any data all of the sudden.

Error code: ERR_IGNORED/4
No response from vehicle.

[68problemchild]

V2 does record.

WO2LAM1 1.701LAMBDA
WO2LAM2 1.701LAMBDA
WO2EQR1 0.587EQR
WO2EQR2 0.587EQR

[joecar]

V2 does record.

WO2LAM1 1.701LAMBDA
WO2LAM2 1.701LAMBDA
WO2EQR1 0.587EQR
WO2EQR2 0.587EQRIs it stuck on those values...?

Those values indicate that the LC-1 is not connected, so the V2 BBL logs those values (i.e. pegged at min value)...

Is the LC-1 powered on...?

On the V2 LCD menu, go Scan Tool->Data Logging->Display WO2, here you should see the real time lambda/AFR values.

[68problemchild]

It should at least read the factory NB? If nothing, I assume they both must be wired up wrong. Will have to grab the meter and rewire. Joecar, you had a thread on this??

[Taz]

You’ve come along way - got the engine running, the Tach working, and now it’s time to confirm the ECM is receiving input from all necessary sensors.

Joecar is probably the best person to assist with your LC-1 WBO – I use a different WBO and know nothing about the LC-1.

The custom tune you’re working from has many of the DTC / MIL functions reduced or disabled. While this is great from the standpoint that the “Check Engine” or “MIL” light will rarely illuminate in the dash – this approach does not best utilize the ECM as a resource to help your initial diagnostic efforts.

Some of your DTC are off, or set to “2 trips” – some of these settings may actually be the OEM. If it were me, I wouldn’t want to wait for 2 drive cycles before being made aware of a potential issue.

DTC - take a look at:

O2 heater control (P0030 / P0050)
O2 heater resistance (P0053 / P0059)
O2 voltage / response / performance (P0131 to P0161)
HO2S insufficient switching (P1133 / P1153)
O2 range (P2A00 / P2A03)

I recommended settings these parameters so that they assist you in the initial “shake down” of the car - they can always be reset (or turned off) later if you wish.

MIL - take a look at:

P1133, P1153, P2A00, P2A03
these are currently turned “off”

Same comments apply regarding the MIL settings as with the DTC settings above. I will often use the DTC / MIL diagnostics in the ECM to help sort out initial issues, then later reduce or eliminate these as required.

The bottom line is, consider allowing the E38 to “help out” with sorting out sensor function.


Regards,
Taz

[joecar]

How are your NBO2's wired up...?

[joecar]

How is your LC-1 wired up (fill in the following):

red:
blue:

yellow:
brown:

green:
white:

black:

SERIAL IN:
SERIAL OUT:

[joecar]

More info on LC-1:

showthread.php?14163-V2-with-LC-1-wiring (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?14163-V2-with-LC-1-wiring)
showthread.php?14243-Need-help-with-LTFT (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?14243-Need-help-with-LTFT)

[68problemchild]

Pass side Wide band:

red: Pink
blue: Lt Green

yellow: Purple
brown:

green:
white: Tan

black:

SERIAL IN: Plug
SERIAL OUT: to Cable to Null modem to V2


Drivers Side NB

Harness:: Bosch Sensor NB

Pink :: White
Grey :: White
PPL :: black
Tan :: Grey



I was getting AFR at 14.8-14.9% on V2 logging. Does this mean one is working? Any way to tell which one?
Once I get the O2's going, will definitely add your program suggestions Taz.

Thanks guys.

[joecar]

...
I was getting AFR at 14.8-14.9% on V2 logging. Does this mean one is working? Any way to tell which one?
...You saw this on your V2 LCD (Scan Tool->Logging->Wideband O2)...?

Post a BBL log of this.

[68problemchild]

9140 Car idles a while till frame 10000. Interesting, floored throttle blip only went to 60%.

Scan tool, data logging, record data, selected E-38 controller. Then saw AFR on the V2 screen. Cannot see it on the log though...

Dont see anything when I select Wideband O2. Says WO2 not found.

Also, drove the car today. Needs some serious tweaking but it runs. Just shifts into 2nd gear at 10MPH with my 4L70E truck tranny....

PS updated video on the link.

Thanks guys. Good support.

[68problemchild]

OK, so the stock sensor is wired like this:

Originally Posted by 68Problemchild
For Clarification, so sensor "low" on the GM wiring diagrams is Sensor Ground?

GM:::::::::::::::::::::::: Bosch 15730
Sensor HI (L92 Purple): Black - sensor output
Sensor Low (L92 tan): Gray - sensor ground
Heater power (L92 Pink): White - heater
Ground to ECM (L92 Gray): White -heater

This is how it is currently wired. So is it possible the initial miswiring cooked it? No go on reading it or the LC-1 yet.

[joecar]

Yes, it's possible...

if the heater/ground was wired backwards, or if sensor hi was shorted to power or ground.

Sensor Lo = Sensor Return/Ground (but it not necessarily connected to ground, depends on the sensor).

[joecar]

On your LC-1, when you first power it on, does the LED flash for about 20 seconds and then stays on steady...?

[68problemchild]

I still have to put this in. That will be next step.

Black to LED to pushbutton to white?

[joecar]

Black -> LED anode/+ and pushbutton
White -> LED cathode/- and pushbutton

[68problemchild]

No light/dead.

[68problemchild]

Hey guys, I was thinking of scrapping the LC-1 and just going two new Bosch sensors just to get some type of base tune going.

Thinking maybe I cooked one or wired it wrong I bought a new Bosch today, put it in place of the 3 week old one. Anyways, both reading Mv (so I assume they are getting power and heating) on EFI live but no Lambda or O2 reads, at all on either.

I am starting to think I have some selection jacked up in the software.

Any ideas?

Thanks guys.

Note: sensor are located in band clamps at the end hooker longtubes.

[joecar]

Are you sure you put the LED in the correct direction...?

Can you connect to the LC-1 using the LM Programmer software from your laptop/PC (remove the null modem cable)...?

If the LC-1 is broken, Innovate will repair it.

[joecar]

Are you saying you got the NBO2 working...?

Post logs.

[68problemchild]

Not sure of LED direction. I can reverse it and try.

I do have Mv readings on the logger. What pids should I have selected to read O2? Are they diff for narrow band and wide band?

Also, is bank 1 front and bank 2 rear? Or Bank 1
driver and bank 2 passenger?

Thanks.

[joecar]

HO2S11 and HO2S21.

Those are provided by the ECM.

B1 = bank 1 = left (driver side)
B2 = bank 2 = right (passenger side)

S1 = sensor 1 = front = upstream of cat
S2 = sensor 2 = rear = downstream of cat

So the front O2 sensors are B1S1 and B2S1 (i.e. HO2S11 and HO2S21).


Wideband pid is WO2AFR1.

The wideband pid is provided by V2.

[68problemchild]

OK scanned with V2 and all the 02 pids I could find.

Then, Explorer, Data files, double click scan file. Will have to post this log.

[68problemchild]

Here is a log with all the O2 pids I can get my hands on.

9208

[68problemchild]

9217

Updated log with the LC-1 removed and a stock sensor put in bank 2. Seems better...

[joecar]

I'm looking at them... better, but still not right... I'm thinking...

[68problemchild]

Not sure if this is related but:
Another member mentioned Map max is set to 85.
This is an L92 Truck throttle body on an LS3 intake.
The injectors from the New LS3 intake (it came from a 2010 Camaro LS3) are sized different from the L92 original.
Maybe Leaky valley cover?
Maybe I already toasted the first bank sensor that is still off? The removed LC-1 is pretty black.

THanks everyone.

[68problemchild]

9218

Latest with Joecar suggested pids.

Getting better. I dont like the spark advance.

[joecar]

Replace HO2S12 with HO2S21.

[joecar]

B1S1 is showing activity.

[joecar]

If you changed injectors, did you update your IFR table...?

Where is your fuel pressure regulator located, and is it manifold-referenced...?

[68problemchild]

9225

OK, found a broken power wire inside plug on Bank 2! If you watch the log, the LTFT both even out to 24.2 eventually. Fixed and here we go, still VERY rich, my eyes water.

The tuner (Geoff) changed something with injectors. Not sure what. They should have an LS3 type table I would imagine since that is where they are from (new LS3 intake with injectors from 2010 Camaro).

Not sure what B1S1 is.

I do not know the answer to the fuel pressure regulator. I have a vette type regulator back by the gas tank with a return. See photo. I hope this helps.

Thanks guys very much. Getting there. Is the map cap at 85 a big deal or no?

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41575483@N07/4337652194/

[joecar]

Yes the MAP capping at 85kPa when it should go to 100kPa is a big deal.

[joecar]

B1S1 = bank1 sensor1 = HO2S11 = left front O2 sensor
B2S1 = bank2 sensor1 = HO2S21 = right front O2 sensor

i.e. these are abbreviated as HO2Sx1 (i.e. the front O2 sensors).

[joecar]

See this:

HO2S11 and HO2S21.

Those are provided by the ECM.

B1 = bank 1 = left (driver side)
B2 = bank 2 = right (passenger side)

S1 = sensor 1 = front = upstream of cat
S2 = sensor 2 = rear = downstream of cat

So the front O2 sensors are B1S1 and B2S1 (i.e. HO2S11 and HO2S21).

[joecar]

Referring to your tune in post #3 of this thread: showthread.php?14596-First-drive-L92-with-VVT-and-4L70E-LOG&p=131337#post131337 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?14596-First-drive-L92-with-VVT-and-4L70E-LOG&p=131337#post131337)

This is your IFR table:

LABELS Injector Flow Base (Grams/Second)
Delta MAP kPa Value
128 2.974609
144 3.198486
160 3.407959
176 3.604980
192 3.791992
208 3.969970
224 4.140625
240 4.304199
256 4.461914
272 4.614257
288 4.761718
304 4.904785
320 5.043701
336 5.178955
352 5.310790
368 5.439453
384 5.564941
400 5.687988 naturally aspirated range
416 5.808105
432 5.926025
448 6.041503
464 6.154785
480 6.266113
496 6.375488
512 6.483154
528 6.588867
544 6.692870
560 6.795409
576 6.896484
592 6.995849
608 7.093993
624 7.190917
640 7.286376
This is an LS3 IFR table:

file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Joe/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-1.pngfile:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Joe/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.pngfile:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Joe/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-3.pngLABELS Injector Flow Base (Grams/Second)
Delta MAP kPa Value
128 5.258789
144 5.258789
160 5.258789
176 5.258789
192 5.258789
208 5.258789
224 5.258789
240 5.258789
256 5.258789
272 5.258789
288 5.258789
304 5.258789
320 5.258789
336 5.258789
352 5.258789
368 5.258789
384 5.258789
400 5.258789 naturally aspirated range
416 5.362792
432 5.465087
448 5.565307
464 5.663818
480 5.760742
496 5.760742
512 5.760742
528 5.760742
544 5.760742
560 5.760742
576 5.760742
592 5.760742
608 5.760742
624 5.760742
640 5.760742


You can see that they are different.

[joecar]

I think you're going have to correct the following tables using a wideband:
- IFR
- VE/VVE
- MAF

So it's critical that you get your wideband working properly.

E38/E67 is a little over my head, but we can pull the necessary info together from the forum.

[68problemchild]

9229 Map sensor is LS3 (2 bar?) I tried to keep everything ls3 as I could.

Perhaps I should just load the LS3 tune and then start fussing with the VVT? With the intake and being an LS3 I think its pretty stock save the VVT.

Now that I found the wiring issue, I guess I will take a few more shots at getting the LC-1 back in play. Ugh.

Correct tables using a wide band? You all must think I have a clue here.....


Thanks Joe Car/ everyone!

[joecar]

If the engine is a stock LS3, then yes load the stock LS3 tune.

[joecar]

Is 12591290 a 2-bar or 3-bar sensor...?

If that is the same MAP sensor on the LS9, then the LS9 tune file has B2101 set to 312.5... i.e. it looks like 3-bar to me.

[68problemchild]

Reinstalled LC-1. It has a flashing light (two short flashes, pause, two short flashes, pause, .....) and shows error "2" when turned on.

[joecar]

Shows 2 flashes of the LED, and shows "2" on the V2 LCD...?


LC-1 User Manual says:

Error 2 = sensor heater circuit is open (i.e. the heater circuit between the LC-1 controller and the actual sensor);

unplug the sensor from the controller and carefully re-plug it together.

[68problemchild]

Tried that and switched the neg and pos power wires. Played with the V2 and got it to read Error 1 versus Error 2. Slow single flash versus slow double flash. Read the manual and replugged it but I think its time for a new unit.

Its going back. Anyone got a recomendation on another O2 sensor ?

[68problemchild]

Okay, got this refurbed and returned from Innovate. I will give them one more try.

[joecar]

Double check your wiring before applying power.

[68problemchild]

OK, exact same double flashing light as before. Sensor does not heat up. I assume the engine does not have to be running for power. NB sensor reads fine from same plug.

Next sensor you would recommend that can be read/be recorded by V2 / EFI live?

Anyone want to buy an Innovate?

Thanks guys.