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68problemchild
September 17th, 2010, 09:14 AM
Hey guys. I have my l92 into a 68 camaro.

Sent out for a tune and bought EFI live V2 and scan tool.

Car will crank and wont start. I have been getting to this point for over a year now.

Someone suggested "check security systems in the ECU disable" in the file.

I can plug in the scan tool and it works. Just need to learn how to read the file and up load to you guys. Its a custom tune from Geoff at Engine power systems.

Can you guys help me get this file read onto EFI live scan tool and upload it?




Thanks so much. Just dying to start the car.

Taz
September 17th, 2010, 09:31 AM
Hello 68problemchild,

A 6.2 L Gen IV in a ’68 Camaro will be a great driver when you’re done !

I do mainly Gen III / LS1-B type conversions - but have an L92 6L80E conversion booked in for year end - so I’ve been trying to get up to speed.

What transmission are you using with the L92 ? I take it you are using an E38 ECM ? Do you have original ECM from the 6.2 L donor vehicle ?


Regards,
Taz

68problemchild
September 17th, 2010, 10:21 AM
4L70E. Original ECM.

Just need to get the software from the car to the programmer to turn of the security. Other posts are putting software to the car, not the other way around.
I sent out the computers to be programmed.


Installed latest software.

V2 scanner error after F3 format file sys

"Card not formatted, please reformat card before using"

Taz
September 17th, 2010, 10:42 AM
OK ….. a little confused ….

The L92 was a 6.2 L truck engine, first introduced in 2007. It was originally equipped with 6L80E or 6L90E transmissions. These transmissions use the T43 TCM. The 4L70E you have will use a T42 TCM - and I don’t believe it was ever offered with the L92.

In your original post it seemed that you believed your “no start” condition was “security” related (VATS) and you wanted assistance with disabling this, so the engine would start.

If you were tuning the E38 yourself, the parameters in G1204 - G1216 (VATS) would need to be adjusted and a VATS patch applied, to disable the VATS.

You mentioned you have a custom tune - did the tuner not already disable the VATS ? This would normally be part of a custom tune for an engine transplant.


Regards,
Taz

5.7ute
September 17th, 2010, 11:04 AM
68. Are you trying to black box read the file from the pcm?
Are you formatting the SD card from the V2 unit or with the V8 software?

68problemchild
September 17th, 2010, 11:23 AM
Sorry guys, newbie here. Yes. Trying to black box read from the PCM. Formatting the card right now with the V8.

On the tranny, Geoff at Engine Power Systems was aware of the 4L70E. Its a custom program and I had to buy a new TCM (t42?) to make it work. Geoff programmed both. If I can get it up loaded to you all, you can take a look to see if security is on.

Geoff said he probably turned it (security) off but he wrote this back in April so does not recall. Of course its Friday night so not asking him to go back and work on it here.

Needless to say the installation has taken some time to get this far.

I personally do not have the knowledge to modify the VATS but I am trying to learn.

Let me know what i need to do and I will do it.

pics here if you are interested..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41575483@N07/



Thanks so much for helping.

joecar
September 17th, 2010, 12:57 PM
Which SD card do you have...?


Which versions of V7/V8, and which version of V2 firmware.

joecar
September 17th, 2010, 12:59 PM
To black box read from your controller:
first, run the S&T software, goto Black Box Settings, goto Tune Settings, and select your controller, Save to file, Program to V2.

See this thread: showthread.php?14351-BBL-PIDs-V2 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?14351-BBL-PIDs-V2&p=128785#post128785)

68problemchild
September 17th, 2010, 10:50 PM
The card is a Optima SC HC, 60 HD 4gb. It from my daughters camera but it fits. Downloaded newest versions of software last night. 8.1.2. Build 111
the other is version v7.5.6 (build 114)

FIRMWARE VERSION 2.06.34

Will try suggestions above.

Thank you.

68problemchild
September 18th, 2010, 04:05 AM
Still getting "Card not formatted. Please reformat card before using".

Taz
September 18th, 2010, 04:14 AM
Haven't explored the BBL capabilities yet - still tuning the old fashion way !! I believe the most recent V 7.5.6 build is 130 (you have 114). I recall some changes to the software package when I updated to build 130. This may or may not be related to your current issue ... just a thought.

Regards,
Taz

68problemchild
September 18th, 2010, 05:57 AM
Installed build 130

68problemchild
September 18th, 2010, 06:21 AM
Vats 1204-1216 all appear disabled

Taz
September 18th, 2010, 07:13 AM
You were able to get the software / BBL working and read your tune ?

Regards,
Taz

68problemchild
September 18th, 2010, 09:29 AM
i think its the car tune. Can I post it somewhere here so you guys can look at it? Not sure how to post. It keeps asking for a website.

Taz
September 18th, 2010, 09:45 AM
To upload files from your computer ... while creating a post, click on attachments ... the Manage Attachments utility will pop up ... click on Add Files ... at the bottom centre of that pop up click on Select Files ... should then default to your computer .... select the file(s) you want ... then click on upload (I think) ... after that select the uploaded file and insert it in your post ...

Or something similar to that !!


Regards,
Taz

joecar
September 18th, 2010, 10:08 AM
See this: manage attachments
(http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?2990-Collecting-links-to-tutorial-material-scattered-in-other-sections...&p=126581&viewfull=1#post126581)

Blacky
September 18th, 2010, 10:38 AM
The card is a Optima SC HC, 60 HD 4gb. It from my daughters camera but it fits. Downloaded newest versions of software last night. 8.1.2. Build 111
the other is version v7.5.6 (build 114)

FIRMWARE VERSION 2.06.34

Will try suggestions above.

Thank you.

That firmware version (2.06.34) is too early to support SD Cards over 2GB. To use your 4GB card, you need to be running V2.06.39 or later in your V2.
To upgrade your V2, start the version 8 "EFILive HAPI" application using: Windows Start Menu->All Programs->EFILive->V8->EFILive HAPI.
Click on the the small FlashScan icon that will appear at the end of the Windows task bar.
Select the F6: Firmware page. Click [Refresh]. Click on the [Update] button to update your V2 firmware.

Regards
Paul

68problemchild
September 19th, 2010, 01:44 AM
Firmware is now 2.06.40

68problemchild
September 19th, 2010, 01:49 AM
9025L92 file custom tune. 4L70E, L92 with LS3 intake and injectors. Kept VVT.

Thanks all for helping.

Taz
September 19th, 2010, 02:30 AM
As a disclaimer, I mainly do Gen III conversions – but have a conversion similar to yours booked for later in the year, so I'm trying to get up to speed on E38 / T43 swaps.

I took a quick look at your VATS parameters G1204 - G1216.

From the research I’ve done, there a couple of possible issues associated with your “no start” condition.

You are running ECM OS12614088 - this particular OS in a transplant seems to require a VATS patch + VATS Type 2 + crank relay current. I’m assuming your tuner applied the patch, as G1210 is properly set to Type 2. You will need to apply power to the crank / starter relay (from ECM) in your wiring harness.

After this, if the engine still fails to start, some of your VATS parameters are not consistent with what others have successfully used.

Try these changes only if the engine fails to start after applying power to the wiring harness as described above …..

G1205 – Yes
G1208 – Enabled
G1215 – 600
G1216 – Yes


Regards,
Taz

68problemchild
September 19th, 2010, 05:00 AM
Thanks so much for the help. Can you walk me through uploading these changes in EFIlive Tune 7.5 to the car? I must have done something on the "read" yesterday since the car is not cranking now.

1. Do I need separate uploads, eg one for engine and one for tranny?
2. Does the laptop, Flashscan and car all need to be hooked up at the same time?
3. tune 7.5 keeps saying I am in demo mode. I did register from "help" menu.
4. Upload instructions.

All software and firmware is up to date.
Just need to get this program from 7.5 to the car.
ECM does have power on crank.

Thanks all again.

Taz
September 19th, 2010, 05:34 AM
OK … I want to avoid any errors in communication ….

You stated “ECM does have power on crank” …….

The ECM should have battery power all the time, and ignition power when the key is turned to “on” or “start”.

Just to be clear, those power circuits are not what my last post refers to. In the original 2007 Escalade your engine / ECM came from, there would have been a wire coming from a pin on the ECM, to the starter relay. The ECM needs to “see” this circuit powered to enable an engine start.

If your wiring harness (not sure if it’s a custom harness) did not come setup with this relay, or instructions on how to build your own circuit, then that circuit still remains to be created before the engine will start.

Regarding the Tune Tool being in “Demo mode” – in the Tune Tool go to Help\Register EFILive and confirm your:

FlashScan serial #
Type
Issue date
Key

A missing “0” or transposed digit is often the problem. Once these values are correctly entered, the software will come out of Demo mode. If not, send support an email.


Regards,
Taz

joecar
September 19th, 2010, 06:08 AM
1. Do I need separate uploads, eg one for engine and one for tranny?Yes, since you have separate engine trans controllers.


2. Does the laptop, Flashscan and car all need to be hooked up at the same time?Yes, laptop -> FSV2 -> OBD-II port


3. tune 7.5 keeps saying I am in demo mode. I did register from "help" menu.Did you enter the info exactly from the Blue Card...? Carefully double check your entries as Taz said.


4. Upload instructions.From laptop open tunetool, open engine or trans file, then do Flash->Program PCM Calibrations (take note of the button icon, it has a narrow red down arrow, you will also see this same button on the toolbar... do not use the button with the wide red arrow)...

while flashing you will see a progress bar, when it finishes it will ask you to turn off ignition and wait 15 seconds (with ignition off).


All software and firmware is up to date.There are new ones:
http://download.efilive.com/Software/V7.5/EFILiveV7.5.6.133_Setup.exe
http://download.efilive.com/Software/V8/EFILiveV8.1.2.115_Setup.exe

For 115, connect your V2 to your PC and do this:
To upgrade your V2, start the version 8 "EFILive HAPI" application using: Windows Start Menu->All Programs->EFILive->V8->EFILive HAPI.
Click on the the small FlashScan icon that will appear at the end of the Windows task bar.
Select the F6: Firmware page. Click [Refresh]. Click on the [Update] button to update your V2 firmware.

That should bring your V2 firmware to 2.6.41.

If you already formatted your SD card then you don't need to again.
In V2 options, did you have FileSys set to SD card when you formatted it...?


Just need to get this program from 7.5 to the car.Do it first using laptop/tunetool as said above... once you got this working, then you can do it using V2 in BB mode (requires saving .tun file as .ctd from tunetool)... but lets take one step at a time.


ECM does have power on crank.If it doen't start, log the GM.VTD to see if VAT/VTD is kicking in.

Is your ECM a E38 or E67...?

joecar
September 19th, 2010, 06:47 AM
...

pics here if you are interested..

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41575483@N07/

...Thanks, we're always interested in pics :cheers:

Some questions/comments:
- does radiator flow from top to bottom...?
- P/N/backup light switch: watchout for header heat, the filler in the socket(s) on these melt (which glues the plug in the socket).

68problemchild
September 19th, 2010, 07:43 AM
9029
ECM is E38.
ECM power all the time...?

Wiring instructions for the harness requested switched power for one lead.
Ign power for another.
Neither is hot with the key turned off.

The harness is custom from Current performance and has a start relay. The harness does have a wire going to the starter relay (purple). Not sure if this answers your question. From the current performance site:

"The Fuses and Relays for custom harnesses can come one of 2 ways. Either the standard separation of all relays where they are mounted in the engine compartment usually on the firewall or fender, or a compact OEM looking Fuse/Relay center where all of the components are in one central location. The fuse/relay center style is shown below. All of the fuses and relays are labeled on the underside of the covers just like a factory vehicle.




All of the Engine Management Harnesses come with wires that need to be wired in to the vehicle. Any wires that are loose are labeled and instructions are always included describing where the wires need to be connected.
These wires may include:
A simple 12V switched source
Check Engine Light
Speedometer
Tachometer
A/C Compressor
Park/Neutral for ECM
Starter relay signal
Fuel Pump Power
Brake switch signal "



Car is cranking (bumped it into drive by accident so that was one problem) but still no start.

I did reflash with Taz's recommended changes but no joy.

I do not know about radiator but you can see it in the pictures.

Here is the tranny file.



"If it doen't start, log the GM.VTD to see if VAT/VTD is kicking in" Sorry, don't know how to do this...

PS while cranking, no noid light coming from injector.

Appreciate all the help!!!

Taz
September 19th, 2010, 08:55 AM
As I indicated in a previous post your E38 OS requires:

VATS patch applied
VATS Type 2 selected
crank relay current
To enable an engine start. You are going to need the pinouts / wiring diagrams from a 2007 Escalade - to properly wire the crank (starter) relay current - monitored by the ECM.

Not all E38 OS systems require this circuit, but it seems yours does.

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?13210-E38-E67-VATS-disable-guide&highlight=VATS+patch

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?9464-E38-No-Start&highlight=VATS+patch

This may not have been explained in detail by your harness manufacturer, or your tuner, as there are many variations in the E38 from one OS to another OS - but it would seem that it remains to be completed to allow an engine start.

Regards,
Taz

68problemchild
September 19th, 2010, 09:21 AM
Crank Relay current, eg like this?
"At first I wired in the trigger from a Bosch 4 pin relay, about 80 ohms, it STARTED about one out of three times. The more resistance I added the more often it started. I grounded (yes, I was frustrated) the yellow/black wire and it fired up every time.

For goodness I wired in a 60 ohm resistor and it fires up 95% of the time."

gmh308
September 19th, 2010, 09:32 AM
Crank Relay current, eg like this?
"At first I wired in the trigger from a Bosch 4 pin relay, about 80 ohms, it STARTED about one out of three times. The more resistance I added the more often it started. I grounded (yes, I was frustrated) the yellow/black wire and it fired up every time.

For goodness I wired in a 60 ohm resistor and it fires up 95% of the time."

Joecar kindly PM'd me to see if I could contribute. (spend way too much time on VATS no start stuff :) )).

EDIT: just realised all of the above was a "quote" from another post. The crank relay pin on the ECM may not be wired in on your Current Performance harness. This is the pin that looks at the relay current flow and says it is "there" and goes ahead with the start sequence.

The crank relay is normally fed from pin 67 of the ECM body connector (C1/X1) or on some ECM's it is pin 52.

The cranking relay current only needs to be in the microamp range so its just a trickle. You can either ground this pin, or.............

If you post up your engine tune, there is now a bypass calibration for this relay test (not sure if it is in the latest release) and I can add it in for you. Your choice.

Taz
September 19th, 2010, 09:37 AM
Yes sir ..... in that thread the gentleman had an E38 ECM and a similar problem to you - no injector power. It seems he went the "trial and error" route - rather than scouring through a manual for a more precise solution - but he still got it running.

In the other thread ..... your OS is listed as requiring all 3 of the previously listed conditions to be met - for an engine start.

Regards,
Taz

Taz
September 19th, 2010, 09:45 AM
Hello gmh308,

I believe post #28 is a quote from a thread I linked - don't think we're that far yet (engine starting that is). I have a similar swap booked in later this year, and would be very interested in learning more about the "bypass calibration for this relay test" - you mentioned.

Thanks for the help ....

Regards,
Taz

68problemchild
September 19th, 2010, 09:56 AM
Thanks Guys! GMH308, the file is in post #20 of this thread for PCM, TCM is post 26. Thanks so much. Sounds like I need to trickle some current into my black and yellow harness wire....or not if I have this software by pass...

Engine cranking but no start. No light on injector noid but has spark.

gmh308
September 19th, 2010, 10:39 AM
Thanks Guys! GMH308, the file is in post #20 of this thread for PCM, TCM is post 26. Thanks so much. Sounds like I need to trickle some current into my black and yellow harness wire....or not if I have this software by pass...

Engine cranking but no start. No light on injector noid but has spark.

Try this engine tune...........

9030

Good chance it will fix your problem if the start relay check is getting in the way. :)

68problemchild
September 19th, 2010, 10:42 AM
Will try it. you guys Rock!!!

Taz
September 19th, 2010, 10:47 AM
OK … you set G1220 (Starter relay type) to “not used” … and G1219 (Starter relay diagnostic) remains “enabled”.

Anything else …… to help me understand the changes required to omit wiring a relay circuit …

Just updated to build 133 today … don’t recall seeing these parameters before …


Regards,
Taz

68problemchild
September 19th, 2010, 11:00 AM
Still no start on my end. In diagnostics it reads

ECM P0615 -FPHXNCS
I think this is the starter relay control circuit.

Not sure if its relevant but my original starter was bad and not cranking. New one has been installed and it started cranking right after.
Thanks for your efforts.

joecar
September 19th, 2010, 11:16 AM
Ian, thanks mate for posting :cheers:

68problemchild
September 19th, 2010, 11:47 AM
9031Disabled G1219 and now trouble code is gone but still no start.

Again, thanks everyone for all your help. I will keep at it.

B9903 says "disable vats patch" applied.

should I get some trickle power to the Yellow with blk ign wire?

68problemchild
September 20th, 2010, 10:27 AM
Hey guys. My tuner would like a scan (he likes 7.5) of me trying to start the car so he can see what is going on with the injectors. Can someone walk me through this?

Thanks so much. Your patience appreciated.

gmh308
September 20th, 2010, 10:40 AM
9031Disabled G1219 and now trouble code is gone but still no start.

Again, thanks everyone for all your help. I will keep at it.

B9903 says "disable vats patch" applied.

should I get some trickle power to the Yellow with blk ign wire?

Did you set VATS Type to "2" in G1210?

I just checked and the cal you sent had it set to "1". (this is covered elsewhere in this post and also the VATS sticky and in the VATS OS patch help).

It will not start with VATS type set to "1".

G1220 is the option I set in the cal I posted for you so it is correct at "not used". Have never seen G1219 have any effect either way.

The crank/start relay feed will have some trickle current regardless of any other settings.

gmh308
September 20th, 2010, 10:43 AM
Ian, thanks mate for posting :cheers:

No worries Joe. :cheers:

68problemchild
September 20th, 2010, 11:02 AM
Yes. G1210 set to type 2.

I called the harness guy today. He said the harness wire for starting goes directly to the starter relay, not through the PCM. So pretty sure there is no current, trickle or otherwise, to that PCM pin 67 mentioned.
1.Is this the problem or would your fix have over rided this issue?
2. Should I reapply the vats patch just in case? Can you link me to the how to apply a vats patch? (B9903 in operating system patches, indicates vats patch applied)


Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!

gmh308
September 20th, 2010, 12:02 PM
Yes. G1210 set to type 2.

I called the harness guy today. He said the harness wire for starting goes directly to the starter relay, not through the PCM. So pretty sure there is no current, trickle or otherwise, to that PCM pin 67 mentioned.
Is this the problem or would your fix have over rided this issue?

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thats correct. The ECM does not operate the starter (except in a regular production car), but, the ECM in its normal state for some applications wants to "see" a starter relay and current flowing from the ECM pin to ground through the relay coil.

The current flows from the ECM to ground. Grounding the pin has the same effect.

The "fix" G1220 bypasses the logical check that there is relay current there flowing from the ECM to ground through the relay or directly.

So to check:

You have set the OS VATS patch to enabled and done a "full flash". (this takes 4 - 5 minutes)
VATS Type G1210 is set to "2" (calibration flash only required - this takes ~45 sec)
G1220 is set to "not used" (calibration flash only required - this takes ~45 sec)

68problemchild
September 20th, 2010, 12:30 PM
Log of it trying to start. Not sure if I did not this right.

9042

You have set the OS VATS patch to enabled and done a "full flash". (this takes 4 - 5 minutes)
VATS Type G1210 is set to "2" (calibration flash only required - this takes ~45 sec)
G1220 is set to "not used" (calibration flash only required - this takes ~45 sec)

All three are in my current file and the changes (vats changes) originally recommended by Taz (I tried with and without Taz's). I am not sure how to differentiate between a full and calibratioin flash but my update from the pc takes 2-3 minutes. All this has been flashed in, I think...

Thanks for all the help!!!!

gmh308
September 20th, 2010, 01:13 PM
Log of it trying to start. Not sure if I did not this right.

9042

You have set the OS VATS patch to enabled and done a "full flash". (this takes 4 - 5 minutes)
VATS Type G1210 is set to "2" (calibration flash only required - this takes ~45 sec)
G1220 is set to "not used" (calibration flash only required - this takes ~45 sec)

All three are in my current file and the changes (vats changes) originally recommended by Taz (I tried with and without Taz's). I am not sure how to differentiate between a full and calibratioin flash but my update from the pc takes 2-3 minutes. All this has been flashed in, I think...

Thanks for all the help!!!!

The full and the calibration flash are selected differently. There are 3 read/write buttons on the toolbar. Green is read. Middle red it cal flash. Right hand red is full flash. And you get a big warning asking if you really want to full flash. Have you been through those steps?

Cheers. :)

68problemchild
September 20th, 2010, 11:39 PM
Good stuff. Initially the guys suggested only to use the Middle. Right hand red does the operating system too yes? I take its not possible for me to accidentally change the operating system but no "full" flash yet. I will try today!!

Also very troubled about the -60 spark advance in the log file. I did change the cam and hope all is allright.

Thanks so much.

gmh308
September 21st, 2010, 12:16 AM
Good stuff. Initially the guys suggested only to use the Middle. Right hand red does the operating system too yes? I take its not possible for me to accidentally change the operating system but no "full" flash yet. I will try today!!

Also very troubled about the -60 spark advance in the log file. I did change the cam and hope all is allright.

Thanks so much.

Yes the right hand button on the toolbar does a "full flash". This is the OS/Operating sytem AND the calibration area. This is around a 2mb flash so takes about 5 minutes. The calibration is smaller at about 256kb. The VATS patch is in the OS so unless you do a full flash it wont work.

Good luck :).

ScarabEpic22
September 21st, 2010, 04:35 AM
You can use full flash to change the OS (be careful doing this on E38/E67 ECMs, make sure the OS is compatible with the ECM otherwise you will brick it) or to apply VATS patches, etc. So you need to do a full flash to have the VATS disable actually written to the ECM because of where it exists in the ECM code. Most stuff is in the calibration area, so usually all you need to do is a cal flash. Once you have the VATS patch applied via full flash, you only need to cal flash afterwards unless you need to change VATS stuff again.

68problemchild
September 21st, 2010, 10:17 AM
Full flash in place with mods.

A ScanLog using 7.5

Anyone see anything abnormal?

68problemchild
September 21st, 2010, 10:19 AM
9056

gmh308
September 21st, 2010, 11:16 AM
Full flash in place with mods.

A ScanLog using 7.5

Anyone see anything abnormal?

I just tested your tune out in our ECM test vehicle. Fires up with:

{G1204} VATS Enable Yes
{G1205} VATS Auto learn Enable Yes
{G1206} VATS Required To Run No
{G1208} VATS Fail Diagnostic Disabled
{G1209} VATS Mode No
{G1210} VATS Type Type 2
{G1211} Remote Start Allowed Yes
{G1214} Relearn Count 3.000000 Counts
{G1215} Relearn Timer 600.000000 Seconds
{G1216} Theft Relearn Password Yes

{G1213} Clutch Depress To Crank Yes
{G1217} Maximum Cranking Time 15.000000 Seconds
{G1219} Starter Relay Diagnostic Disabled

OS VATS Patch applied. (no other OS patches applied, i.e. no TCS/MAF patches, no FAN range patch.)

And the G1220 set to "not used".

I had to double check the VATS type. In resetting your VATS options from a stock 12614088 file, even though VATS = 2 with that file, and yours was VATS 2, copying them over set VATS type to 1. No idea why that happens. This bug was repeatable so I manually set type to 2.

If your tune wont start with the above settings the issue is probably outside the ECM. Your ECM looks to be an 06/07 unit which has a correctly calibrated ETC for the VIN. Probably has service number 1259721 on the back. (Remote chance it is 12612384 but I doubt it).

Is your throttle moving ok with the pedal?

Are you using a factory alternator setup?

68problemchild
September 21st, 2010, 11:43 AM
Thanks so much for all the effort.
Fly by wire pedal. The thing is new and really does not have much play at all. It does have some type of restrictive pin on it.
Yes factory L92 Alt.

Since this has vats changes I take it I need the full reflash. I do not see the "fat" red arrow as a highlited option once I put in your changes.

gmh308
September 21st, 2010, 11:48 AM
Thanks so much for all the effort.
Fly by wire pedal. The thing is new and really does not have much play at all. It does have some type of restrictive pin on it.
Yes factory L92 Alt.

Since this has vats changes I take it I need the full reflash. I do not see the "fat" red arrow as a highlited option once I put in your changes.

The only requirement for a full flash is the OS "patches". Everything else is a calibration flash i.e. the VATS area changes in the System area DO NOT require a full flash as they are "calibrations". If the fat red arrow is missing, just close the application and re-open WITH the V2 unit attached. :) PITA that one!

You can try either with or without the other OS patches being changed back to stock. I doubt they affect things. Not really needed for your project.

Are you running a factory alternator setup? EDIT: Yes. If you find the battery wont charge, PM me.

68problemchild
September 21st, 2010, 12:22 PM
Thanks. Did a full reflash on the one that has patches. Its the only tune I have.

It has
traction control maf less 1
traction control maff less 2
Disable vats patch
Cooling fan operation range patch.

I really appreciate all the help. I take it incorrect vats would cause the injectrors not to fire becuase it looks like they are not. Someone asked if they could be on the wrong banks but they only reach one installation way.

I also verified it kept vats 2 in G1210

gmh308
September 21st, 2010, 12:33 PM
Thanks. Did a full reflash on the one that has patches. Its the only tune I have.

It has
traction control maf less 1
traction control maff less 2
Disable vats patch
Cooling fan operation range patch.

I really appreciate all the help. I take it incorrect vats would cause the injectrors not to fire becuase it looks like they are not. Someone asked if they could be on the wrong banks but they only reach one installation way.

I also verified it kept vats 2 in G1210

If it still wont start on you and the tune is as above, then its worth checking all power/fuses and grounds.

Feel free to post the one you flashed in here and will double check it. Would be surprised if your harness has any issues, but there is always a first time. Assuming your engine has good cam and crank sensors. Have seen harnesses with incorrect sensor wiring but these were GMPP harnesses. Quality not great.

If you want to check the ECM whether it is turning the injectors on you will need to check the "Fuel Injector X Control Circuit" PIDs where X is the injector number. If the ECM is fine with VATS these will go from "off" to "on" when cranking.

68problemchild
September 21st, 2010, 12:42 PM
Thanks. Will check the injectors tomorrow, etc.

I must say, I never cease to be amazed by the willingness of complete strangers to help me out here. Its sad I have been working on this engine and car for a year only to not get it started. Ah well. I don't give up too easy.

Cam is custom.
Also, not sure if its relevant but this tranny 4L70E has not been used with this motor to my knowledge.

GMH308 your efforts are VERY appreciated here.
Thanks ALL!
Current tune
9057

gmh308
September 21st, 2010, 01:43 PM
Thanks. Will check the injectors tomorrow, etc.

I must say, I never cease to be amazed by the willingness of complete strangers to help me out here. Its sad I have been working on this engine and car for a year only to not get it started. Ah well. I don't give up too easy.

Cam is custom.
Also, not sure if its relevant but this tranny 4L70E has not been used with this motor to my knowledge.

GMH308 your efforts are VERY appreciated here.
Thanks ALL!
Current tune


You're just lucky we are all nice guys here. And I have a soft spot for Camaros. :) The bill is in the mail LOL!

Tune looks ok on a quick look.

4L70E may or may not work properly. Tune is for an A6 as you know. It'll probably work, but GM does use a different engine calibration for A4's. Assuming that you had the harness built for A4 and you have a 4L70E trans control module in the picture as well.

Did you check all your fuses?

68problemchild
September 21st, 2010, 11:26 PM
I checked fuses with an Ohm meter. All are good.

Log shows injectors going from off to on and staying there. In one log, its only 1 bank. I definitely will research correct grounding.

gmh308
September 22nd, 2010, 11:07 AM
This is an L92 right? How is the CP harness connecting to the Cam sensor? Through the VVT/CAM harness on the front cover or has that been removed and you are simply connecting straight into the cam sensor?

68problemchild
September 22nd, 2010, 12:02 PM
GMH308 Thanks man.

Everyone, you have been great.

Redid all the grounds direct to negative on bat and added one to passenger head. Redid an old horn relay + wire, replaced a breaker.

And, the tranny leaks like a sieve from the rad so it cannot run long but.........

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41575483@N07/5015827851/


I could not have done it without you all!!!!!!!!!!!:cucumber:

5.7ute
September 22nd, 2010, 12:21 PM
Good work guys.:rockon:

gmh308
September 22nd, 2010, 12:23 PM
GMH308 Thanks man.

Everyone, you have been great.

Redid all the grounds direct to negative on bat and added one to passenger head. Redid an old horn relay + wire, replaced a breaker.

And, the tranny leaks like a sieve from the rad so it cannot run long but.........

http://www.flickr.com/photos/41575483@N07/5015827851/


I could not have done it without you all!!!!!!!!!!!:cucumber:

Cool bananas. So you know exactly what the problem was or did doing the grounds over meet with that sound of an engine coming to life?

If you have a meter, dont forget to check if the battery is charging at 13.5V plus immediately from start up. These truck based tunes sometimes dont charge at all or delay too long. When I tested your tune it did not switch the alternator on.

Dont forget to mention on LS1Tech how much help the EFILive crew gave you! :)

68problemchild
September 22nd, 2010, 12:48 PM
It was the grounding that finally turned it over but it may not have gone with out the tune. Yes you all are up on the board at LS1tech too. Congrats.

Thanks for the tip on the alternator. Will check it.

Alt looks good.

First running log...9061

joecar
September 22nd, 2010, 02:10 PM
Good job... :cheers: ..."I love it when a plan comes together"

Taz
September 25th, 2010, 01:37 AM
Nicely done, sounds awesome !!!


Regards,
Taz