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View Full Version : Got the WB (LC-1) hooked up. A few logs and some questions....



n8dogg
October 8th, 2010, 11:43 AM
I finally got around to hook up my LC-1 Wide-band on my 04 Z06. I have the WB simulating the NB in bank 2. I did a few logs and they have generated some questions.

This log was yesterday, shortly after installing the sensor. I did a couple of WOT pulls. After looking at the log I am puzzled at a couple of things. First is the AFR. Max shows 87.21 AFR?! I imagine this is an issue with the LC-1, but what would it be? So do I rely on its read out? Next is the HO2S mv... both banks appear to be accurate, so I am confused to the extremely high AFR reading.
9177

The next log was this morning. It was a cold start with normal driving, to a short bust on the expressway heading to work, then normal driving and once I got to a safe spot stopped logging. Everything appears to be normal. I did not log the WB, I probably should have. Then again I woke up 20 minutes prior and rushed so I can make it to Dunkin Donuts :hihi: BUT the question I do have is my LTFT's seem to be as close to zero as ever before. Could this be because of the accuracy of the WB? Here's the log.
9176

One off topic question I have is, when I select vehicle speed PID, it displays MPH in the Data (F9) tab. Yet when I view the Dashboard (F10) its in Km/H. It never used to do this, did I accidentally change something?

Thanks guys!

WeathermanShawn
October 8th, 2010, 12:49 PM
I'll handle the first question.

That AFR reading is what happens during DFCO. Completely normal. Mine shoots up to 128 or some unreal number. The fuel is just 'cut-off' during DFCO.

I'll let someone else answer your other questions. Could be just darn accurate Tune at Idle!

joecar
October 8th, 2010, 02:57 PM
+1 that is DFCO... if you don't like DFCO you can disable it.

The WB simulating the NB is not making your trims be close to zero... when the trims are close to zero this means that the VE, MAF, IFR tables are correct.

On Dash A, on a gauge do rightclick->Properties->General and from the dropdown select the Metric or Imperial of that pid.
On Dash B, on a chart, rightclick in the corner of the chart (where the pid name is) and select Metric or Imperial and then select the pid.

joecar
October 8th, 2010, 02:59 PM
Also, did you do these to your LC-1:
- heater calibration (need this once only for the sensor),
- free air calibration (do this only in presence of clean air).

n8dogg
October 8th, 2010, 04:24 PM
+1 that is DFCO... if you don't like DFCO you can disable it.

The WB simulating the NB is not making your trims be close to zero... when the trims are close to zero this means that the VE, MAF, IFR tables are correct.

On Dash A, on a gauge do rightclick->Properties->General and from the dropdown select the Metric or Imperial of that pid.
On Dash B, on a chart, rightclick in the corner of the chart (where the pid name is) and select Metric or Imperial and then select the pid.


I'll handle the first question.

That AFR reading is what happens during DFCO. Completely normal. Mine shoots up to 128 or some unreal number. The fuel is just 'cut-off' during DFCO.

I'll let someone else answer your other questions. Could be just darn accurate Tune at Idle!


Also, did you do these to your LC-1:
- heater calibration (need this once only for the sensor),
- free air calibration (do this only in presence of clean air).

Thanks guys, good to hear its just the DFCO. I don't see a reason to take that away, if anything its saving me some 93 octane.

I did perform the heater calibration as well as the free air calibration (several times). Actually that leads to my next question.

When I tried to install my LC-1 as a NB replacement, I kept getting Error code 2 (heater). I made sure my connections were tight and correct several times. If I disconnected the LC-1 connector from NB vehicle connector and jumpered to power and both grounds it functioned properly. What I ended up doing was just connecting the LC-1 to NB ignition 3 voltage and yellow wire to NB high signal. Then white wire and blue wire to chassis ground on the frame. She seems to be working properly. But now of course I get the good ol' P0155 HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 2 sensor 1.

So in my tune I disabled the P0155. This shouldn't effect anything right?

joecar
October 9th, 2010, 07:57 AM
That should be ok.