3 questions

[eboggs_jkvl]

The attached file has three things happening that I need stopped.

Thing #1: AFR event frames 4915 - 4988 & 8652 - 8667 (Edit: When these events happen, the car snaps from closed loop to open loop for the event and then goes back to closed loop)

One occurs at idle (and often I might add) that I can feel and one happened at 37MPH which I could not feel. When it happens at idle, my idle dips pretty heavily (400's) It was not pronounced on this recording but I can feel the Power Steering shudder when the event occurs.

Thing #2: KR. In open loop, my shifting has 0 KR. After the car gets hot and in closed loop, it goes into KR especially at 3rd gear.


Thing #3: Idle dip to very low RPMs when clutch is depressed as in coming to a stop.
Open loop
frame 776 RPM 496
and 1216 RPM 376
Closed loop
frame 3905 RPM 444

This is constantly happening and the dives in RPM affect the Power Steering enough to make the steering wheel to shudder.



Ok, that's it.


TIA,


Elmer

[eboggs_jkvl]

Ok then, I'm swamped with responses. Let's try another question.

I just loaded the stock High octane Table back in to the ECM. My scan shows KR of say... 7 degrees. I highligh the KR, switch to the tune file and see the cell that is indicated as the KR cell. So, I take the reading in the cell, lets say 27 and reduce it by 7 to 20. Do I need to blend the surrounding cells to not have a "spike" down in the table or is the E38 fast enough that a blend would be unecessary? Is this the proper way to make adjustments to the spark table?


Elmer

[joecar]

Hi Elmer,

In your example, try reducing from 27 to 24 (i.e. a lesser drop)... I would blend surrounding cells since the surrounding cells are at operating conditions that are only incrementally different than the current cell (i.e. you may get knock in those surrounding cells also)... i.e. there are no discontinuities in physics (for tuning purposes)...

:doh2: proper way...? Anything called proper is always debatable, you already know that :hihi:

the ECM interpolates between cells, so it's not a matter of the the ECM blending, but a matter of where it's starting from (i.e. the nearby cell).

-Joe

[gmh308]

Elmer, what is the setup you are running in the engine and tune? Difficult to know how to respond without understanding some of the context. :)

[GAMEOVER]

ELmer, Are you atleast running 91-93 Octane? What spark plugs you using?

[eboggs_jkvl]

My Sig shows all of my options on the car.

My KR did great that time, I blended around the offending cell and did not repeat the KR. I reran the test with harder acceleration and hit more KR, which I adjusted the cells again to fix the octane table.


I run ONLY 93 octane in the car. NGK TR6 plugs. Gapped @.035

OK, now what cute little table do I slap to reduce the "Cruise Control" effect of the throttle. When I lift, it is not coming down in RPMs quite like I expect. I think the "Dipping" I was chasing was the 52 degrees of spark I was running. I simply had to much spark everywhere on the table. I loaded the stock spark table back in and this is what I'm tuning now. I think I have a good grip on the spark table. I'm going to run it with this for a while to make sure it has every opportunity to "learn" and see how it runs. I just need to tweak that air flow table, whatever it is, to get the RPMs to come down a bit faster when I lift off the throttle and I might be getting close to being comfortable with the tune.

Elmer

[gmh308]

My Sig shows all of my options on the car.



So that means you are running a stock LS2 engine with Edelbrock blower? With some NFI GM RPO's. :) What changed that started giving you OL/CL snaps.

[eboggs_jkvl]

The OL/CL snaps are a total mystery to me. I do not know what "tune" my tuner started with. I'm really getting close to putting the entire stock tune back into the car and resetting the MAP and Injectors to the new stuff. I'm tired of guessing what the heck is in the tune.

I just put the stock Engine Operation, Minimum idle airflow numbers back in (B1829). Going for a drive now to see what that causes on the lifting of the throttle pedal and the RPM drop.

Elmer

[gmh308]

The OL/CL snaps are a total mystery to me. I do not know what "tune" my tuner started with. I'm really getting close to putting the entire stock tune back into the car and resetting the MAP and Injectors to the new stuff. I'm tired of guessing what the heck is in the tune.

I just put the stock Engine Operation, Minimum idle airflow numbers back in (B1829). Going for a drive now to see what that causes on the lifting of the throttle pedal and the RPM drop.

Elmer

Yes its worth starting again. Do a compare against your original tune...there may be some standout odd ball issue. Its amazing what some tunes have done to them... :)

Or post the tune for a quick examination... :)

[eboggs_jkvl]

Well, the cruise control is gone and the car is driving perfectly. I still have the dieseling, darn. I think I need to start over. I'm going to set the MAP, injectors, and high/low octane tables from what I'm running now into a stock tune base and see what happens. I keep putting things back to stock to make the car perform properly so I may as well be SURE that EVERYTHING is set to stock and start over.


Elmer

[gmh308]

What do you think of the EForce kit? Good quality? Fit well? Running well?

[eboggs_jkvl]

E-Force kit was superb. The tune for the LS2 was a major POS! It made my ECM a paper weight for 5 days until someone managed to erase the crap loaded and get my car to just start!

Ok, someone check me out. I have uploaded 2 files. The file named 10_16xxxx is my current loaded tune. The file named 10_17xxxx is the Stock 2007 M6 tune with edits from 10_16xxxx

I did MAF, MAP, Injectors, PE, High/Low Octane tables, !CAGS, !fan run after shutoff. I hope I didn't miss anything. To make sure, I'll toss in the stock 2007 M6 tune too. So 3 files attached.

Elmer

[gmh308]

E-Force kit was superb. The tune for the LS2 was a major POS! It made my ECM a paper weight for 5 days until someone managed to erase the crap loaded and get my car to just start!

Ok, someone check me out. I have uploaded 2 files. The file named 10_16xxxx is my current loaded tune. The file named 10_17xxxx is the Stock 2007 M6 tune with edits from 10_16xxxx

I did MAF, MAP, Injectors, PE, High/Low Octane tables, !CAGS, !fan run after shutoff. I hope I didn't miss anything. To make sure, I'll toss in the stock 2007 M6 tune too. So 3 files attached.

Elmer

Where did the Max ETC Area B1650 and Airflow Area Conversion Max B1701 numbers come from?

[eboggs_jkvl]

Where did the Max ETC Area B1650 and Airflow Area Conversion Max B1701 numbers come from?

Ok, new plan. My tuner does not know what the base tune started from. He was given the start by the company that supplies the hand held that contained the POS tune from Edelbrock. My tuner and I decided to start over with my stock tune. I pulled the tune out of the Corvette 2 months after I got the car. We are going to use that and adjust what is needed to make the SC work. There are numbers and settings in my current tune that cannot be explained and I'm tired of dicking with the Edelbrock base or whatever the tune was.

So, my tuner received, from me, my stock original tune. I also sent to him the stock high octane spark table that I've been adjusting, sans boost settings. He has the boost settings he made and we'll splice his boost with my base and go from there. I saw all of those crazy assed numbers in the current tune and that was when I asked for a do-over from my base tune.

As I said, the LS2 tune from Edelbrock was truly a major POS!


Elmer

[gmh308]

So that original SC tune came from Edelbrock? The special POS part number? :) Blecchhh. Yes its a real bodge.

[ScarabEpic22]

Sounds like a BS tune Edelbrock sent your tuner, good plan going back to stock and working from there. Ive had to do it a few times, it takes longer but in the long run the tune is always better. Plus then you and your tuner know exactly what was changed and why it was.

[Tre-Cool]

how much boost are you running? im guessing around 6~8psi?

I think you need to drop your timing immediatly by 8 degrees off the entire map and then work on getting your fuelling correct with a wideband. starting with 13.5 afr from 2500 and have it at 12:1 by 4000rpm. i find with my car with 11psi i get a nicer torque curve with the afr's below 4000rpm sitting around the 12.8 mark.

i run a cammed 6lt with a harrop hh122 and run about 11 degrees of timing at wot. similar combo on my other car with meth injection pre blower would let me run 14-15 degrees.