PDA

View Full Version : Installing an AEM Wide Band 02 and logging afr



johnmaster
June 21st, 2011, 05:22 AM
I know the topic has been discussed, I have searched and found a handful of posts on the topic but they were either for v1 or innovate or the tech was over my head or etc. Is there a step by step how to for dummies already made?

Here is what I have:
Aem Uego 30-4100 gauge and sensor
I have the gauge powered up from the red and black wires and it is reading afr very nicely on the gauge.
I do not have the inline controller with the white grey brown wires that Mr prick showed in this thread (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?16049-AEM-wideband-to-FlashScan-V2&p=142540&viewfull=1#post142540) so i am stumped as to how to get this to work. Do I need an inline controller?

I have a white wire (0-5v analog output) and a blue wire (serial output) coming from the gauge. From the Manual I am shown that I am supposed to wire the blue wire and a ground onto a connector.

What do I do from there?

joecar
June 21st, 2011, 06:49 AM
Hi JM,

Can you post the AEM user manual pdf here.

You have a FlashScan V2, right...?

johnmaster
June 21st, 2011, 07:22 AM
You bet here it is http://www.schnitzracing.com/manuals/AEMWBK.pdf
BTW, took a drive yesterday and today (on this parts truck I bought) N/A without a tune... :)

joecar
June 21st, 2011, 08:22 AM
Look at the bottom of page 6 in the AEM pdf "Serial Output"... that is how you connect the AEM to a PC's serial port...

Instead of Rx pin 2 you need to connect the blue wire to Tx pin 3; and you do need the ground pin 5 connection.

johnmaster
June 21st, 2011, 12:09 PM
wired to Pin 3 is a requirement for efilive to communicate with the sensor? Pin 2 if you want to use aem's software or the pc?

Going to radio shack tomorrow to get the connector unless I can dig up an RS232 cable here from something I don't need.

joecar
June 21st, 2011, 12:25 PM
If you want to connect the AEM to your PC and used the AEM software, you have to connect pin 2.

If you want to connect the AEM to your V2, you have to connect pin 3.

In both cases, pin 5 has to be connected to V2's serial signal ground (pin 5).

See this thread (which is for the LC-1, but shows the Rx/Tx wire swap [aka Null Modem cable]): serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?9340-serial-port-cable-that-goes-to-v2)

joecar
June 21st, 2011, 12:27 PM
You also have to do this (using either the V2 LCD/keypad/menus or the V8 S&T software):
- select serial port to be wideband,
- select the wideband to be AEM (in your case),
- select to automatically log all the serial/digital pids,
- select which wideband parameters you want to view on the V2 in real time.

mr.prick
June 21st, 2011, 10:35 PM
It's hard to believe nobody has made an AEM serial how to yet. :doh2:

johnmaster
June 22nd, 2011, 01:24 AM
This can be it or I can make one once I go through all the steps firsthand. It's a really nice gauge, I have used them on my turbo sleds and they work great for afr tuning. My wife works in the IT dept of her company so getting an RJ12 made up should be no problem, prefer that over the old clunky serial if I can make it happen. Otherwise I will just splice into a serial cable and live with it that way.

Speaking of cereal, i'm getting hungry...

johnmaster
June 22nd, 2011, 04:55 PM
So I was able to come up with a cable that has 6 conductors and fits the port, it was called rj11/rj14/rj25 on the box from radio shack (which by the way is nothing like it used to be, just a bunch of cell phones and ipods now but at least they are still in business). The ones labeled rj11/rj14 had only 4 conductors and there were also of course cat5 style ethernet cables there which will not work.
TAQuickness sells the cable ready to go for this project but my impatience is making me try to build one myself. If i can't get this to work I will gladly purchase one from his website here: http://www.taquickness.com/taqcables.htm Had I known sooner I would need this I would have just ordered it from him, the cost difference will be negligible or a loss once time and gas are factored in!

So I am going to try to get this thing up and running and I will report back when i hit a speed bump. Thanks again for the help.

johnmaster
June 22nd, 2011, 05:33 PM
All of lifes mysteries are solved now. I just successfully logged afr and it is a sweet thing. A tutorial exists on TAQuicknesses site and on efi live forums as well. http://www.taquickness.com/taqcables/TAQCables_sGEN.pdf which has wiring info and set-up steps for the scanner but not logging info http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?8858-Tutorial-FlashScan-V2-Serial-Wideband-Logging&p=77036&viewfull=1#post77036 which has set-up steps and logging steps but doesnt include cable wiring data so read both. I ignored the black box logging section because i dont think that applied to my situation.

Basically pull your 30-4100 UEGO out of the box. Install the sensor according to the instructions, in my case it will be 36" or more after the turbo due to heat and turbulence and I will also mount it downstream of my waste gate dump, and at an angle better than 10 degrees from the horizontal to prevent condensation from ruining the sensor. Connect the 6 prong harness to the sensor and then plug it into the back of the gauge as well. Also plug the 4 prong connector into the gauge. Attach the red wire to the positive voltage source of your choice (preferrably a source that is on in run position so it is on when your vehicle is running). Attach the black wire as well as the wire coming from the 5 pin from your TAquickness rj12 cord you bought here: http://www.taquickness.com/taqcables.htm to a chassis ground (any good vehicle ground connection).
The white wire coming from your 4 wire connector will not be used (it is for analog use which just sounds painful to me). The blue serial data wire will connect to the 2 pin on your rj-12 cord and you can find the wire colors for a taquickness cable on the first tutorial link above.
So now you should have a gauge installed in the vehicle that works awesome when you are running the vehicle and a cord hanging out of your dash or wherever that looks like a phone cord. if you put your scanner on the dash or on the pass seat or on the console you will want enough cord to reach there as it will be plugged into your v2 and not your pc.
Now you want to get that air fuel ratio data on the scan tool and/or on your pc to include it in a data log. With the vehicle off start to follow the instructions on the efilive tutorial. (the second link)

Some things I noted when I was following the instructions:
For me steps 7 and 8 were combined with the latest v2 scanner (bought mine may '11) and it says something like "COM type" instead of "com in" and "com out". basically set that one to wide-o2 (it should be right above "W02 type' in the settings list on your scanner)
I think "data logging" was an f2 instead of f1 on the step later on but you can figure that out easy enough.

Now that your scanner is configured it should work once you start up the vehicle but instead, follow the directions to monitor and log it on the scantool software on your pc. Those directions (for me) were in the pass through section of the instructions in the second tutorial link.

The only thing I have to add to that section is that when you go to find the PID's (parameter identifiers) you want to log you need to go to the pid's tab like it says and you use the "system" drop down to find w02-serial in the list and about 6 pids will come up. I double clicked w01 #1 afr and and wo2#1 lambda to see what each was reading.

Go to your data page (F9) and you should see them displayed there for you to log.

Now you can create a log and those readings should be recorded.

From what I can tell is if you have a 30-2310 aem uego (universal exhaust gas oxygen) sensor it comes with an adapter instead of a gauge. You would hook this up and use either the scanner or pc to monitor afr instead of mounting a dash gauge. In this case it sounds like you would do everything the same except you would have a red black and gray instead of red black and blue. You would have white and brown for analog and they wouldn't be used in this case.

Here are the product install instructions that are also provided with the sensors.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images/Products/Installation%20Instructions%2030-4100.pdf
http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images/Products/Installation%20Instructions%2030-2310.pdf


I found one of the tutorials at the top on this post that is a collection of links to tutorials all over this site. I have lots of reading to do from this one:) http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?2990-Collecting-links-to-tutorial-material-scattered-in-other-sections...&highlight=serial+wideband+tutorial

Hope someone finds this helpful, it was a great learning experience for me.

joecar
June 23rd, 2011, 03:32 AM
John, thanks for writing up :cheers: some will definitely find it useful.

joecar
July 4th, 2011, 10:00 AM
Hi John,

Can you please sanity check this:


No... you're mixing analog and serial...

[ blue wire is serial comms output; AD+/AD- are analog inputs ]

You want serial comms connection, see this:


V2 serial/digital AFR input (AEM):
Installing-an-AEM-Wide-Band-02-and-logging-afr (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?16636-Installing-an-AEM-Wide-Band-02-and-logging-afr)
AEM-compatibility (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?15748-AEM-compatibility)


i.e.
blue wire -> V2 RJ12 pin 2
black wire -> V2 RJ12 pin 5

also note that black wire goes to vehicle/battery ground.

red wire goes to switched/fused vehicle/battery power.

from this thread: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?12389-Help-connecting-AEM-wb-to-flashscan&p=149601#post149601

Thanks :)