Altering Electronic Throttle Rates on E38

[C6Guy]

Can someone tell me how to go about altering the electronic throttle rates on an E38 PCM? When I look at the OEM tune, all the values are set to 99.99 in the table and there is a note that says not to mess with them.

Is it possible to adjust how the electronic throttle responds on an LS3 with an E38 using EFI Live?

[swingtan]

Is it possible? Yes.

Do you really want to change them? I guess you need to think about what you are trying to achieve. Normally people want to increase the response rate, be cause of a perceived "slowness" in response times of the motor. People put the foot down and feel there is a delay before the motor responds and assume that it's the ETC delaying the throttle opening. I've logged the relationship between the Applied Pedal Position and the Indicated Throttle Position and in the GM based cars you would be hard pressed to :feel" a difference. So if it's already set to near maximum values, I wouldn't bother changing it.

On the other hand, maybe you want to reduce the opening rates like they are on some other operating systems. Normally this would be to "soften" the applied power at small throttle movements to make driving feel smoother. I've never really tried this, mainly because of the warning about bricking the ECM. If you wnated to do this you could probably achieve the same thing with throttle tip in torque reduction.

Simon

[C6Guy]

I'd like to emulate the results of the Sprint Booster.

[C6Guy]

I guess what I'm asking is can I do this with the standard version of EFI Live 7.5 or do I need some other software package or upgrade? When I look at the throttle open rates table, this is what I see (attached). It seems like I'm missing something.

11959

[swingtan]

You're kidding right?

Here's some real time data of the actual ETC TPS sensor. Note the elapsed time is 0.199mS for the throttle position but the MAP response (which gives a better indication of motor airflow) is about half that.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3247/3127275462_ac2ef31b0a_o.jpg

As I said previously, if the stock tables are maxed out, there's nothing to do here, apart from saving $300 on a device that will probably "slow down" the response. Check the How it works (http://www.sprintboostersales.com/whyitworks.cfm) link and it indicates that the response would be slower.

Simon.

[C6Guy]

Yes, I understand exactly how it works and what it does, and I know it won't make the car any faster. I would like to play with the throttle tip in values just because I would like to change the response curve of the throttle and experiment with throttle feel. But what I really want to know is HOW to do it and what software do I need to make it happen.

The problem is not that the response rate of the system is slow. It is that when you press down 10% on the throttle, you don't get a 10% change at the throttle plates, but a much smaller percentage, due to the way it is mapped. I'd like to play with the throttle mapping, and make it closer to a 1 to 1 ratio of change like you would have with a standard throttle cable.

[C6Guy]

Do I need to buy the Professional version of the software to access the tables I am after?

[Boost]

no.

[swingtan]

Are you sure about that? Have you logged both Applied Pedal Position and ETC Indicated Throttle Position to compare?

I don't think you are looking at the tune as a whole, but may be concentrating on a single parameter. Normally, with the table set as you have shown, the actual throttle opening will always be "more" than the pedal position, because the throttle is never actually closed. You certainly do not want a 1:1 ratio in this case as the car would run poorly at low throttle openings. At idle, you have "0%" applied pedal, you don't want "0%" throttle, you are more likely going to have 7% to 8% throttle at this point. Here's a direct comparison of "applied" throttle, vs "actual" throttle.

11962

Note that "most" of the time, the "actual" throttle opening exceeds the "applied" throttle. The only time it doesn't is during transients, where it nearly always matches. There a small section where the "actual" is lower than the "applied" but this has nothing to do with "throttle opening rates", it's actually throttle tip in torque reduction.

If you haven't logged the data, don't alter the table.

Simon.

[C6Guy]

Can anyone tell me what I need to do to gain access to the throttle mapping values?

[swingtan]

You have already posted of picture of the table......

{B2804} Is the table that maps the throttle opening rates.

[ScarabEpic22]

What you see is what you get C6Guy, change it and flash it if you want to experiment with it. Be warned, it might brick the ECM.

[C6Guy]

The table I posted earlier is not the one I'm looking for. The ones I'm looking for can be seen in this screenshot. However, I am unable to see these tables in my version of EFI Live. I'd like to know what I need to do to be able to have access to these tables.

Edit: Image removed by request.

[swingtan]

Well, if you had of mentioned that in post 1, you would have been told that that is most likely set up with a seperate calibration file called a "cax" file. It's not a std. adjustment in EFILive, but something that someone has set up themselves. Unless you have access to that cax file, you won't get access to those tables.

[C6Guy]

Sorry, I didn't have that screen shot to post until just now.

I guess I need to be educated on what a cax file is. Is there some way I can build this file myself, or is there a library anywhere of cax files for downloading? How would someone have made this file in the first place?

[ScarabEpic22]

A .cax file is an additional file that is created by the end user. But in order to make one, you need to know where in the hex code each table is, the units used, the table spacing, etc. Not something you can whip up in an hour or 2.

I see the picture has a date of September 2010, still that looks like a much older screenshot of V7.5 with the way the different calibration segments are named. There isnt even a Transmission segment (its there in all tunes, regardless of PCM, ECM, TCM) and the throttle rates are under the Transmission segment icon. As Simon mentioned, ask the owner of the screenshot if he'd be willing to share his .cax. Even then, each .cax is OS specific so unless its been built for your exact OS, not going to happen.

[joecar]

Some tables (like the one you showed) don't necessarily exist for all E38/E67 calibrations.

Where did you get that pic from, and what is the id of that table...?

Like Simon said, throttle pedal->blade function is quick, any slow down you perceive is due to other reason (traction control, burst/predictive knock control, torque management, ...).

[schwoch1]

Here is a video I posted to YouTube several months ago in relation to throttle response.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLsY7dYjenY
The first part of the video is what your throttle does when the table in question is maxed out at 99.9%. Notice that the throttle blade follows what your foot does. Is this what you are looking for? The second part of the video is the stock '08 Trailblazer LL8 cal running the throttle blades. THat is what you do not want!!! :) I was using an E67 computer for this demonstration, but from what I understand, the E38 and E67 are very similar. As far as bricking the PCM, I messed with every table that was avaliable for the ETC and the PCM still works today, no problems. I am not saying you may not brick a E38 PCM, I am saying I screwed with the ETC tables in my E67 and had no issues!!!
Hope this helps!!!

Mike

[TBMSport]

You'll want to address, among other things, your B0156.

[joecar]

Mike, interesting video, thanks.

[gmh308]

The table I posted earlier is not the one I'm looking for. The ones I'm looking for can be seen in this screenshot. However, I am unable to see these tables in my version of EFI Live. I'd like to know what I need to do to be able to have access to these tables.

11965

Even if you could access that throttle map you would get very little movement before the controller went into limp mode. That table is checked against yet another table that is almost a mirror image of the one in your pic which cannot be accessed. More than a few % out and bingo, limp mode.

[schwoch1]

So C6guy, short answer to your question is no...... at least using EFI Live, or any other commercially available tuning software. If you can do some hex editing and what not, anything is possible, but last time I checked hex editing required a degree in rocket science (at the minimum) and a whole lot of patience.
Sorry man, wish I had better news... but some things in the controllers are better off left alone!!! Bad things can happen to you or anyone around/near you if something goes wrong!!!


BTW... What happened to the screen shot of the throttle map????? Was kind of interesting to see!!!

Mike

[Chuck CoW]

You might call Chuck CoW and just simply have him do it for you.....


Just a thought....
Chuck CoW

[GMPX]

Chuck, can you please resize your CoWlisle 2012 picture, we've had complaints from people not running 24" screens that it's a little excessive :bangin:

[Chuck CoW]

Chuck, can you please resize your CoWlisle 2012 picture, we've had complaints from people not running 24" screens that it's a little excessive :bangin:

Ross My Pal.... You know that I would do ANYTHING for you....and all you have to do is ask!

The BIG problem with your request this time was weather to crop the pic to show the CoW GIRL's breasts or her pretty face....

Not wanting to only show half of her, the best decision was to remove her..... DAMN!

At your service!
Chuck CoW

[Wheelz]

Can someone tell me how to go about altering the electronic throttle rates on an E38 PCM? When I look at the OEM tune, all the values are set to 99.99 in the table and there is a note that says not to mess with them.

Is it possible to adjust how the electronic throttle responds on an LS3 with an E38 using EFI Live?

Not sure if you've tried this already, but there is a ton of tq management on these engines that isn't really needed. Clunk reduction, tip in reduction... I disabled all except traction control by blade and love the way it drove. I think your problem is caused by tq management rather than poor accelerator pedal mapping

Just my .02

[Chuck CoW]

Not sure if you've tried this already, but there is a ton of tq management on these engines that isn't really needed. Clunk reduction, tip in reduction... I disabled all except traction control by blade and love the way it drove. I think your problem is caused by tq management rather than poor accelerator pedal mapping

Just my .02

Regardless of what's happening in the tune, What I've done is very different.... Click the link in my signature and look around for other posts on the subject with "CoW BOOSTER"

You'll see what I'm talking about.

Chuck CoW

[minytrker]

Regardless of what's happening in the tune, What I've done is very different.... Click the link in my signature and look around for other posts on the subject with "CoW BOOSTER"

You'll see what I'm talking about.

Chuck CoW

I think I understand what your selling and claiming BUT I dont understand that it makes zero more hp and it doesnt improve ET BUT it will feel faster? Do I have that right or am I misunderstanding?

[Boost]

Mike, interesting video, thanks.

+1 :cheers:

[Wheelz]

Regardless of what's happening in the tune, What I've done is very different.... Click the link in my signature and look around for other posts on the subject with "CoW BOOSTER"

You'll see what I'm talking about.

Chuck CoW

Will do. Rarely am I on here on my computer and this wonderful phone app hides sigs. But I'll check it out

[Chuck CoW]

I think I understand what your selling and claiming BUT I dont understand that it makes zero more hp and it doesnt improve ET BUT it will feel faster? Do I have that right or am I misunderstanding?



Borrowed from the Caddy forum......



Quote Originally Posted by Chris CTS V Wagon View Post
So in a nutshell all you're doing is tweaking throttle opening to absolute pedal position and the rate of opening.

It makes the car "feel" faster but you're not actually making more power. Under the curve power through rate of throttle opening may be improved slightly.

How does this affect cruise control?

Well, I hate to use the phrase "in a nutshell"... This was no small feat, but the concept for what it's worth is simple....

Many tuners try to mess with "rate of opening" as some calibrations have a table with that name.... Vettes for instance have the table maxed out

and the trucks usually have the first few cells with lower numbers.... For what it's worth, the table does nothing and I don't mess with it....

From my other post, you should remember that CoW BOOSTER! does not change the RATE of opening even though it might feel that way.

I AM CHANGING THE "THROTTLE LIMITER" TO PERMIT MORE THROTTLE OPENING relative to PEDAL ANGLE. The throttle is limited to less than

8% when you press the throttle PEDAL 50%. CoW BOOSTER! allows much more throttle to be open (MAKING MORE POWER) so instead of

8% we might give you 35%. Sure, it's not the 50% you asked for, but it's several times more than you were getting before....

Another way of looking at it.... Put a block of wood under your gas pedal in any car you drive. It will absolutely LIMIT YOUR THROTTLE OPENING

which will absolutely LIMIT YOUR POTENTIAL HORSEPOWER both at WOT and a bit below that.

REMOVE the block of wood and it's safe to say "removing the block of wood gave me more power than I had before. The block of wood DID NOT

make horsepower by itself, but the block of wood was LIMITING YOUR POWER just like your stock throttle tables.

Think of CoW BOOSTER! in the same way you think of REMOVING THE BLOCK OF WOOD or removing the limiter.

After doing so, you now have more power.




It does not FEEL FASTER.... IT IS FASTER. What does "FEELS FASTER" mean?? EVERY PERSON that spends money on performance mods EXPECTS TO FEEL SOMETHING.

So, if I install a supercharger and it pushes me back in the seat when I press the gas.... It only "FEELS" faster.... GUYS, it's the same power that pushes you back in the seat

wether it's a cam, a blower, a rear end, or CoW BOOSTER!... The very same thing.


How does this affect cruise control?

No effect whatsoever..... It was a big concern for me when I designed it, but the way we did it has no interaction with cruise control whatsoever.

Chuck CoW

[Wheelz]

I gotta admit, I don't get it. WOT is WOT, period. You can't open the throttle any farther than wide open. From what I understand your just re-mapping the accelerator to make the blade respond faster at low throttle movements, which reduces the responsiveness at higher throttle positions. Since the average person doesn't drive at high throttle pedal positions very often, the lack of upper throttle response isn't as noticed since it isn't used very often.

I understand your limiter theory if the throttle blade wasn't opening a full 100%, but I can't see how that's the case.

Neat trick though

[swingtan]

Actually, WOT is not always WOT. More specifically, "peddle to the floor" is not always WOT.

Let me try and explain...

Many Electronic throttle systems control throttle opening in terms of "peak commanded torque". A complex algorithm is used to estimate the amount of torque produced by the engine and this is used to manage how much throttle opening will be allowed. In many cases, manufacturers deliberately limit the amount of low speed torque an engine will deliver, by setting a hard limit on how much torque the engine can produce, and control this with the electronic throttle. If you log both APP ( Applied / Actual Pedal Position ) and ETCTP ( Electronic Throttle Control Throttle Position ), you will see that the later does not always follow the former. In the case we are talking about, the later is limited until the engine RPM reaches something like 3000 RPM.

So while your foot may be on the floor, the real world throttle opening will be something under that and in the case Chuck is talking about, could be as low as 8%. What Chuck has done is to work out how to get around the peak torque limit and allow you to get significantly more throttle at low engine RPM.

Simon.

[Wheelz]

Actually, WOT is not always WOT. More specifically, "peddle to the floor" is not always WOT.

Let me try and explain...

Many Electronic throttle systems control throttle opening in terms of "peak commanded torque". A complex algorithm is used to estimate the amount of torque produced by the engine and this is used to manage how much throttle opening will be allowed. In many cases, manufacturers deliberately limit the amount of low speed torque an engine will deliver, by setting a hard limit on how much torque the engine can produce, and control this with the electronic throttle. If you log both APP ( Applied / Actual Pedal Position ) and ETCTP ( Electronic Throttle Control Throttle Position ), you will see that the later does not always follow the former. In the case we are talking about, the later is limited until the engine RPM reaches something like 3000 RPM.

So while your foot may be on the floor, the real world throttle opening will be something under that and in the case Chuck is talking about, could be as low as 8%. What Chuck has done is to work out how to get around the peak torque limit and allow you to get significantly more throttle at low engine RPM.

Simon.

Ok, I get the peak commanded torque, but I was able to achieve a perfect 1:1 response to commanded throttle vs pedal position by disabling all but TCS by throttle blade. That's why I'm confused as to why he is trying to mess with the throttle rates or pedal mapping.

I have logged both of those PIDs you mentioned and from a dead start achieved 100% ETCTCP instantaneously. Maybe all E38s are not the same? I did it on an 2011 silverado w/ the 5.3L

[Boost]

Are you trying so say that on the C6 the tables which cross reference pedal input with produced torque (commonly available on other controllers) are NOT there and you are doing something beyond EFILive? Or you are using cax files? Because that's what I think I understand.

[Wheelz]

Are you trying so say that on the C6 the tables which cross reference pedal input with produced torque (commonly available on other controllers) are NOT there and you are doing something beyond EFILive? Or you are using cax files? Because that's what I think I understand.

If your asking me, I didn't notice those tables. There is a chance I missed seeing them. I'll look again when I get home tonight. I know what tables your talking about cause my dads LBZ uses that table

And no, I did everything in EFI tune 7.5. I'll post the tune and the log up when I get off work. I checked it from a dead stop WOT run to 60 or so (it wasn't a great spot for testing) and ETCTP was 100% the entire pull minus one blip to about 98%

[Boost]

Sorry I should have been more clear, I was asking Chuck. I am also trying to figure out if he is offering a tune (which is how it is described somewhere in the Vette forum in his sig) or something advanced not available in basic functions - and if so, is it a cax. file or some wiring deal. Thanks.

[joecar]

If your asking me, I didn't notice those tables. There is a chance I missed seeing them. I'll look again when I get home tonight. I know what tables your talking about cause my dads LBZ uses that table

And no, I did everything in EFI tune 7.5. I'll post the tune and the log up when I get off work. I checked it from a dead stop WOT run to 60 or so (it wasn't a great spot for testing) and ETCTP was 100% the entire pull minus one blip to about 98%Hi Wheelz,

I'm interested in viewing your tune file.

What caused the blip, was it traction control...?

[Wheelz]

Hi Wheelz,

I'm interested in viewing your tune file.

What caused the blip, was it traction control...?

Sorry, was replying be memory and got two logs backwards. We only ran it to 45 mph and there was no blip in the ETCTP. I also modified B2517 slightly. There is probably more massaging that could be done there to make the throttle open faster, however this was going to be a daily driving tune for my moms truck and she was just asking for it to feel a little more responsive.

But all I changed was set B015 thru B0532 (minus the skipped numbers) to no except B0517, which I left yes. And as I mentioned above massaged B2517. I did have the name wrong on that one in a previous post. I was saying TCS by throttle blade, which wasn't the correct name.

1390213903

there is the tune and the corresponding log.

[Chuck CoW]

I gotta admit, I don't get it. WOT is WOT, period. You can't open the throttle any farther than wide open. From what I understand your just re-mapping the accelerator to make the blade respond faster at low throttle movements, which reduces the responsiveness at higher throttle positions. Since the average person doesn't drive at high throttle pedal positions very often, the lack of upper throttle response isn't as noticed since it isn't used very often.

I understand your limiter theory if the throttle blade wasn't opening a full 100%, but I can't see how that's the case.

Neat trick though

PLEASE REMEMBER: We are NOT talking about WOT. We are NOT talking about improving power at WOT. I CAN NOT open the throttle more than 100%

HOWEVER: For all PEDAL ANGLES below 85% or so, WHAT YOU ASK FOR WITH YOUR FOOT IS NOT WHAT YOU GET.

As an example... When you press your C6 Corvette pedal down 50% (other LSx platforms are very different) you're only allowed about 5% at the blade.

Sounds like a rip off, IT IS. But, if you throttle was anywhere close to 1:1 NONE of you could drive these vehicles below 50% throttle. The 90mm blade is so big that just the slightest

crack open and lots of air rushes in and too much power is produced for any sort of normal driving. TOO MUCH POWER and TOO MUCH RESPONSE. That's why they got it sooooo limited.

Just like your REV LIMITER, SPEED LIMITER, and 1,000 other limiters in the calibration....It's there for good reason. BUT, also TOO CONSERVATIVE for most people.

ENTER CoW BOOSTER! Think of it in the same way you think about raising a rev limiter or vehicle speed limiter....You give yourself more room to suite your wants.

What I did was set up CoW BOOSTER! to give us MORE THROTTLE OPENING at all throttle pedal angles below about 85%.

Think of a stock E38 like a piece of wooden 2x4 someone jammed under your gas pedal. With the wood in place, your THROTTLE is LIMITED.... And your HORSEPOWER IS LIMITED. SIMPLE.

Think of CoW BOOSTER! as the process of REMOVING THE 2x4 from under the pedal..... What does it give you???

It simply gives you MORE THROTTLE OPENING, which LETS MORE AIR ENTER THE MOTOR, WHICH MAKES MORE POWER AND TORQUE THAN YOU HAD PREVIOUSLY.

Honestly, I'm struggling with the concept that sooooo many people on the forums (no offense intended) don't get this very simple bit of physics. You have to see

the arguments on the other forums.... It's insane. MORE AIR IN = MORE POWER OUT. This is what CoW BOOSTER! does. MORE THAN YOU HAD BEFORE.

No, you can't do it with a .cax. No you can't do it with EFI LIVE or HPT. This has been a 7 year project for me and my friend and it's finally available for E40, E38, & E67

CARS and TRUCKS. EVERYONE WHO HAS IT LOVES IT. Those that don't have it or understand what it is.... FIGHT WITH ME EVERY DAY OVER IT. :bangin:

I don't want to expose all of the details and I'd prefer that the select few that I've told don't discuss it, but It's pretty cool.

It creates controversy because people that can't follow the concept argue and fight, people with tuning software can't do it or even copy it, and it re-writes all the

LSX tuning rules with respect to low and mid range power and performance.

I don't care how much horsepower your cam or supercharger adds to your motor....If the stock GM COMPUTER is limiting the throttle from opening, regardless of what you ask for with

your foot.... Then CoW BOOSTER! will give you however much throttle opening you need to give you the power you want.

THIS IS NOT JUST THROTTLE RESPONSE!!! or faster blade movements This is throttle opening and POWER.


From what I understand your just re-mapping the accelerator to make the blade respond faster at low throttle movements, which reduces the responsiveness at higher throttle positions.
Since the average person doesn't drive at high throttle pedal positions very often, the lack of upper throttle response isn't as noticed since it isn't used very often.

NO....Not at all... As far as reducing the responsiveness at higher throttle positions, I can't understand how you come up with that.... Not true at all.

I'm not trying to pick a fight here.... People just gotta understand.... The blade goes from 0 - 100% and the pedal goes from 0 - 100%

I can assure you that with the exception of 90+% pedal, YOU ARE DEFINITELY ALWAYS GETTING FAR LESS OF THE BLADE OPEN THAN YOU THINK.

That translates to "FAR LESS AIRFLOW THAN YOU THINK"

That translates to "FAR LESS POWER AND TORQUE THAN YOU THINK."

CoW BOOSTER! Gives you back, what they TOOK AWAY... Your stock pcm LIMITS THROTTLE OPENING AND THERE IS NOTHING YOU CAN DO ABOUT IT. PERIOD.

CoW BOOSTER! allows me to custom tailor a THROTTLE LIMIT PROFILE for every platform or customers needs to give you EXACTLY how much throttle opening

you want from your car.

ALWAYS REMEMBER: The throttle is the POWER CONTROL VALVE OF YOUR MOTOR.

When CoW BOOSTER! raises the limits of the throttle opening..... YOU GET MORE POWER! AGAIN, NOT (I REPEAT NOT) at WOT but at all points below that.

You think or vehicle is FUN to drive now..... Give it a TRY!

CoW BOOSTER!
Chuck CoW

[Chuck CoW]

Sorry I should have been more clear, I was asking Chuck. I am also trying to figure out if he is offering a tune (which is how it is described somewhere in the Vette forum in his sig) or something advanced not available in basic functions - and if so, is it a cax. file or some wiring deal. Thanks.

Sure, everyone that get's CoW BOOSTER! usually get my tune as well, but they are not the same thing.

I must have the pcm or the vehicle in my possession. No, I can not load it with EFI LIVE or HPT or AutoCal. If you try to COPY a pcm with CoW BOOSTER! installed in it

and load it into another car, it will shut the vehicle down INSTANTLY as soon as you touch the gas pedal and potentially ruin the pcm for good.

If you read a pcm with CoW BOOSTER! in it.... you won't see anything at all.

However, if I install CoW BOOSTER! in your pcm, you can continue to tune and re-tune over it forever provided you read the pcm out and save it

before you continue tuning on it. ANY MODS, ANY SOFTWARE, ANY POWER LEVEL, CAR OR TRUCK, WILL BENEFIT FROM CoW BOOSTER!

MR.Boost from Torque South Tuning:

Send me your pcm for your personal car, and I'll do it for you for free. Must be a can bus controller E38, E40, E67. Tell me what you've done to the car

and I'll make a perfect CoW BOOSTER! for you. Also, know that CoW BOOSTER! has two (2) modes. I can program them both the same or I can do one more

and one less or whatever.... Wife or "HER" mode for TC/ON and you can have "HIS" mode for TC/OFF/COMP MODE selectable with the switch. Or street or race... or whatever.

Once you drive with CoW BOOSTER! YOU WILL NEVER want to drive your car again with a stock throttle profile. PROMISE!

Chuck CoW

[Boost]

Sounds very interesting, I really appreciate the generous offer.

[gmh308]

MR.Boost from Torque South Tuning:

Send me your pcm for your personal car, and I'll do it for you for free. Must be a can bus controller E38, E40, E67. Tell me what you've done to the car

and I'll make a perfect CoW BOOSTER! for you. Also, know that CoW BOOSTER! has two (2) modes. I can program them both the same or I can do one more

and one less or whatever.... Wife or "HER" mode for TC/ON and you can have "HIS" mode for TC/OFF/COMP MODE selectable with the switch. Or street or race... or whatever.

Chuck CoW

Gotta love that! Go for it! :)

[Wheelz]

PLEASE REMEMBER: We are NOT talking about WOT. We are NOT talking about improving power at WOT. I CAN NOT open the throttle more than 100%

HOWEVER: For all PEDAL ANGLES below 85% or so, WHAT YOU ASK FOR WITH YOUR FOOT IS NOT WHAT YOU GET.

As an example... When you press your C6 Corvette pedal down 50% (other LSx platforms are very different) you're only allowed about 5% at the blade.

Sounds like a rip off, IT IS. But, if you throttle was anywhere close to 1:1 NONE of you could drive these vehicles below 50% throttle. The 90mm blade is so big that just the slightest

crack open and lots of air rushes in and too much power is produced for any sort of normal driving. TOO MUCH POWER and TOO MUCH RESPONSE. That's why they got it sooooo limited.

Just like your REV LIMITER, SPEED LIMITER, and 1,000 other limiters in the calibration....It's there for good reason. BUT, also TOO CONSERVATIVE for most people.

ENTER CoW BOOSTER! Think of it in the same way you think about raising a rev limiter or vehicle speed limiter....You give yourself more room to suite your wants.

What I did was set up CoW BOOSTER! to give us MORE THROTTLE OPENING at all throttle pedal angles below about 85%.

Think of a stock E38 like a piece of wooden 2x4 someone jammed under your gas pedal. With the wood in place, your THROTTLE is LIMITED.... And your HORSEPOWER IS LIMITED. SIMPLE.

Think of CoW BOOSTER! as the process of REMOVING THE 2x4 from under the pedal..... What does it give you???

It simply gives you MORE THROTTLE OPENING, which LETS MORE AIR ENTER THE MOTOR, WHICH MAKES MORE POWER AND TORQUE THAN YOU HAD PREVIOUSLY.

Honestly, I'm struggling with the concept that sooooo many people on the forums (no offense intended) don't get this very simple bit of physics. You have to see

the arguments on the other forums.... It's insane. MORE AIR IN = MORE POWER OUT. This is what CoW BOOSTER! does. MORE THAN YOU HAD BEFORE.

No, you can't do it with a .cax. No you can't do it with EFI LIVE or HPT. This has been a 7 year project for me and my friend and it's finally available for E40, E38, & E67

CARS and TRUCKS. EVERYONE WHO HAS IT LOVES IT. Those that don't have it or understand what it is.... FIGHT WITH ME EVERY DAY OVER IT. :bangin:

I don't want to expose all of the details and I'd prefer that the select few that I've told don't discuss it, but It's pretty cool.

It creates controversy because people that can't follow the concept argue and fight, people with tuning software can't do it or even copy it, and it re-writes all the

LSX tuning rules with respect to low and mid range power and performance.

I don't care how much horsepower your cam or supercharger adds to your motor....If the stock GM COMPUTER is limiting the throttle from opening, regardless of what you ask for with

your foot.... Then CoW BOOSTER! will give you however much throttle opening you need to give you the power you want.

THIS IS NOT JUST THROTTLE RESPONSE!!! or faster blade movements This is throttle opening and POWER.



NO....Not at all... As far as reducing the responsiveness at higher throttle positions, I can't understand how you come up with that.... Not true at all.

I'm not trying to pick a fight here.... People just gotta understand.... The blade goes from 0 - 100% and the pedal goes from 0 - 100%

I can assure you that with the exception of 90+% pedal, YOU ARE DEFINITELY ALWAYS GETTING FAR LESS OF THE BLADE OPEN THAN YOU THINK.

That translates to "FAR LESS AIRFLOW THAN YOU THINK"

That translates to "FAR LESS POWER AND TORQUE THAN YOU THINK."

CoW BOOSTER! Gives you back, what they TOOK AWAY... Your stock pcm LIMITS THROTTLE OPENING AND THERE IS NOTHING YOU CAN DO ABOUT IT. PERIOD.

CoW BOOSTER! allows me to custom tailor a THROTTLE LIMIT PROFILE for every platform or customers needs to give you EXACTLY how much throttle opening

you want from your car.

ALWAYS REMEMBER: The throttle is the POWER CONTROL VALVE OF YOUR MOTOR.

When CoW BOOSTER! raises the limits of the throttle opening..... YOU GET MORE POWER! AGAIN, NOT (I REPEAT NOT) at WOT but at all points below that.

You think or vehicle is FUN to drive now..... Give it a TRY!

CoW BOOSTER!
Chuck CoW

Thanks Chuck for the explaining your "trick" better. I hope you have much success since you spent so much time developing it.

But if you cannot understand this:

As far as reducing the responsiveness at higher throttle positions, I can't understand how you come up with that.... Not true at all.

Then I need to explain something to you. If at WOT you have 500 hp available, and at 50% throttle you have 100hp available BEFORE your booster, then the remaining 50% throttle to achieve WOT throttle will net you a 400 hp increase. Now, if after your modification at 50% throttle you have 250 hp (not a bad increase at part throttle, the car would drive significantly faster) the remaining 50% throttle to achieve WOT (since as you said you cannot open the throttle any farther than 100%) will only net you a 250hp gain as opposed to the 400hp gain from a stock accelerator mapping. So if driving at 50% throttle, and you then go WOT with your modification you would feel less change in acceleration and the car would feel less responsive because the change in horsepower output was less with your booster. Its simple physics. I'm not trying to pick a fight with you. I'm just explaining the other half of whats happening so people can make 100% informed decisions. You have x amount of hp available, so if you take more at the beginning there is less left over.

Now, why is the stock mapping the way it is? Just like audio and RF Power, hp is best controlled logarithmically. That is why audio and RF both use the DB scale. A 5 hp increase at 50 hp would feel like much more of an improvement than a 5 hp increase at 500 hp, because 5 hp at 50 hp is a 10% increase and at 500 hp its only a 1% increase. So if you dump power in linearly on a 500 hp engine (which your booster is approaching that, while not going that far) then every 1% of APP would net you 5 hp. So at 50 hp you would have to move the pedal 1% to achieve a 10% horsepower increase. At 90% throttle you would then have 450 hp available and that same 1% pedal movement would still net you a 5 hp gain, but only be a 1.1% horsepower increase. This type of mapping causes the car to be very twitchy at low power and feel nearly non responsive at high power. What they are attempting to achieve with the stock throttle map is a 10% change in pedal position causing a 10% horsepower change, at all power levels. That makes cars easy to drive, feel very smooth and have a similar felt power response across the entire pedal map. Is that possible to achieve perfectly, no. But that is their goal.

I commend you on your effort developing your booster. It does not sound like it was easy. That said, your booster is not for me. Thank you for your time.

[Chuck CoW]

Thanks Chuck for the explaining your "trick" better. I hope you have much success since you spent so much time developing it.

But if you cannot understand this:


Then I need to explain something to you. If at WOT you have 500 hp available, and at 50% throttle you have 100hp available BEFORE your booster, then the remaining 50% throttle to achieve WOT throttle will net you a 400 hp increase. Now, if after your modification at 50% throttle you have 250 hp (not a bad increase at part throttle, the car would drive significantly faster) the remaining 50% throttle to achieve WOT (since as you said you cannot open the throttle any farther than 100%) will only net you a 250hp gain as opposed to the 400hp gain from a stock accelerator mapping. So if driving at 50% throttle, and you then go WOT with your modification you would feel less change in acceleration and the car would feel less responsive because the change in horsepower output was less with your booster. Its simple physics. I'm not trying to pick a fight with you. I'm just explaining the other half of whats happening so people can make 100% informed decisions. You have x amount of hp available, so if you take more at the beginning there is less left over.

Now, why is the stock mapping the way it is? Just like audio and RF Power, hp is best controlled logarithmically. That is why audio and RF both use the DB scale. A 5 hp increase at 50 hp would feel like much more of an improvement than a 5 hp increase at 500 hp, because 5 hp at 50 hp is a 10% increase and at 500 hp its only a 1% increase. So if you dump power in linearly on a 500 hp engine (which your booster is approaching that, while not going that far) then every 1% of APP would net you 5 hp. So at 50 hp you would have to move the pedal 1% to achieve a 10% horsepower increase. At 90% throttle you would then have 450 hp available and that same 1% pedal movement would still net you a 5 hp gain, but only be a 1.1% horsepower increase. This type of mapping causes the car to be very twitchy at low power and feel nearly non responsive at high power. What they are attempting to achieve with the stock throttle map is a 10% change in pedal position causing a 10% horsepower change, at all power levels. That makes cars easy to drive, feel very smooth and have a similar felt power response across the entire pedal map. Is that possible to achieve perfectly, no. But that is their goal.

I commend you on your effort developing your booster. It does not sound like it was easy. That said, your booster is not for me. Thank you for your time.

Again, no disrespect, but it still appears that you don't understand how this works...... Please look at the graph below....

13907


This is what you're missing..... The factory throttle is NOT LINEAR and power is NOT APPLIED like you think it is..... Again, GM's agenda with respect to EVERYTHING

they do has NOTING TO DO with what you think you want.

The problem I have with what they've done is that the throttle does virtually NOTHING below 60% and when you get past 60% the throttle opens MUCH MORE THAN YOU'RE

ACTUALLY ASKING FOR. The reason your theory is incorrect is that you've never (not until now) ever seen the throttle slopes. Look at the purple and green lines on my graph.

They represent TRACTION ON and TRACTION OFF/COMP MODE. When moving the throttle from let's say 70 to 80% PEDAL ANGLE you're asking for only a 10% change with your foot.

In reality, looking at the graph, they're giving you a 30% change in the blade. That blows away your theory. Let's say your wheels are spinning near WOT and you need to modulate the

throttle a bit to limit wheel spin or control the car safely at WOT in a turn..... When you make the slightest change in pedal (which is not hard to do as there's lots going on at like 6,000 RPM)

you only intend to change the blade position by 10% yet you actually get a 30% change which could potentially upset the car, or cause the ties to break free.

Since you've never seen the maps as they are, it's hard for you or anyone else to know what's going on....

Fact is, the throttle is FAR, FAR LESS responsive below 60% giving you NOTHING and then it's HYPER RESPONSIVE ABOVE THAT POINT giving you WAY MORE than you're asking for.

When you look at the red line that represents CoW BOOSTER!, you'll notice that it's FAR MORE LINEAR (which we know is much better) as what you're asking for with the pedal is much

closer to what you actually get.

Let's look at it another way....This should help you better understand it.....

As I said, the car gives you only 5% blade when you ask for 50% with your foot. SO, You're half way thru the pedal range and you've only achieved 5% to that point......THEREFORE,

you have only 50% pedal travel left to accomplish moving the blade the REMAINING 95% of it's potential travel. LOOK AT THE GRAPHS..... Besides that, with GM's cal, the throttle is most often

100% FULLY OPEN even though the pedal is only at 85-90%..... Which actually causes you to have to make up 95% of blade travel in LESS THAN 50% pedal travel.....

Looking at the graph, do you now see why I have a problem with your understanding of this???

Listen, no offense here, but you and others mis understand this and quickly say that it's NOT for you and snuff it off.....

I absolutely guarantee ANYONE who actually tries it that with one or two small adjustments I can make it perfect for you and this mod

would rank as your least expensive and most favorite mod EVER!

While you've convinced yourself in you last paragraph that you understand what's going on, you still don't get it... I'm not bothered by that, but this is just simply one of those things

that you should reserve (public) comment on UNTIL YOU ACTUALLY TRY IT AND HAVE SOME PERSONAL EXPERIENCE WITH IT BEFORE YOU COMMENT ABOUT IT.

Hopefully this post clears up some of the common misconceptions regarding CoW BOOSTER!

Thank you.
Chuck CoW

[minytrker]

I get what your selling now, makes better sense. If you do the booster can I still edit my tune myself?

[Wheelz]

Chuck,

You do realize my entire argument is based on POWER, not blade position. It is how smoothly the power comes on is what they are trying to achieve. Since the blade is pivoting, the last 30% of rotation has much less impact on the actual restriction of air through the throttle than the first 5%. They are adjusting the blade so that the cross sectional area of the blade, to control restriction, changes very smoothly and evenly throughout the entire pedal travel. The amount of restriction directly corresponds to how much air the engine gets to make its power with, blade angle is simply a calibrated middle step to control that restriction.

Don't get me wrong. I'm certain your mod makes the car more fun to drive, as you don't have to push the pedal down as far to make the same power, so the car feels quicker.

I would like to challenge you to not pull the "You don't understand it" card when anyone doubts that there are no side effects to this mod. There are side effects, I pointed them out in my previous post. I challenge you to actually read it. I know you did not understand it as you simply stated I was wrong and did not understand your product, but then proceeded to chase down a completely unrelated "rabbit path" to explain why I was wrong. You said I was wrong in stating that the throttle moves linearly, to which I clearly stated it did not and should not move linearly. I said they are trying to bring the power up logarithmically, so that felt change in power is linear. I said that that felt change in power requires a larger actual power change at higher output power than it does at lower output power, which was where my percentage example was used. A percentage change in power is not linear. Ever. Couple that effect with the fact that the throttle is pivoting about an axis and the blade angle to pedal position will be nowhere close to linear and be very drive-able with smooth power changes for all pedal positions.

And lastly, if you do not want your product criticized by anyone, do not advertise in a public forum. Your product, contrary to your belief, is not that difficult to understand. You are simply re-mapping the throttle position to pedal position. The outcome of that has pros and cons. I am free to discuss BOTH of those without purchasing your product, and discussion of BOTH of those should be encouraged. Your buzz words of "far far less responsive" and "hyper responsive" are disconcerting. The blade position is an intermediate control point which cannot be discussed by itself as to how drive-able the car actually is. What you need to post to reduce the amount of doubters like me is actual power vs blade position. Then discuss how you map the blade position to pedal position and show how the power is being controlled. Run it on a dyno and show the output curves at various fixed blade angles and PROVE your product.

For the sake of this thread, I will not bother you all any more with this discussion. Sorry for the interruption.

[Chuck CoW]

I get what your selling now, makes better sense. If you do the booster can I still edit my tune myself?

So long as you read the cal I install, you have enough to keep cow booster.... Yes, you can edit to your hearts content, but you can not modify the booster.

I have to do that via e-mail if you need it.

Chuck CoW

[Chuck CoW]

Chuck,

You do realize my entire argument is based on POWER, not blade position. It is how smoothly the power comes on is what they are trying to achieve. Since the blade is pivoting, the last 30% of rotation has much less impact on the actual restriction of air through the throttle than the first 5%. They are adjusting the blade so that the cross sectional area of the blade, to control restriction, changes very smoothly and evenly throughout the entire pedal travel. The amount of restriction directly corresponds to how much air the engine gets to make its power with, blade angle is simply a calibrated middle step to control that restriction.

Don't get me wrong. I'm certain your mod makes the car more fun to drive, as you don't have to push the pedal down as far to make the same power, so the car feels quicker.

I would like to challenge you to not pull the "You don't understand it" card when anyone doubts that there are no side effects to this mod. There are side effects, I pointed them out in my previous post. I challenge you to actually read it. I know you did not understand it as you simply stated I was wrong and did not understand your product, but then proceeded to chase down a completely unrelated "rabbit path" to explain why I was wrong. You said I was wrong in stating that the throttle moves linearly, to which I clearly stated it did not and should not move linearly. I said they are trying to bring the power up logarithmically, so that felt change in power is linear. I said that that felt change in power requires a larger actual power change at higher output power than it does at lower output power, which was where my percentage example was used. A percentage change in power is not linear. Ever. Couple that effect with the fact that the throttle is pivoting about an axis and the blade angle to pedal position will be nowhere close to linear and be very drive-able with smooth power changes for all pedal positions.

And lastly, if you do not want your product criticized by anyone, do not advertise in a public forum. Your product, contrary to your belief, is not that difficult to understand. You are simply re-mapping the throttle position to pedal position. The outcome of that has pros and cons. I am free to discuss BOTH of those without purchasing your product, and discussion of BOTH of those should be encouraged. Your buzz words of "far far less responsive" and "hyper responsive" are disconcerting. The blade position is an intermediate control point which cannot be discussed by itself as to how drive-able the car actually is. What you need to post to reduce the amount of doubters like me is actual power vs blade position. Then discuss how you map the blade position to pedal position and show how the power is being controlled. Run it on a dyno and show the output curves at various fixed blade angles and PROVE your product.

For the sake of this thread, I will not bother you all any more with this discussion. Sorry for the interruption.



Please don't take my rebuttal as an insult or attack. You were most civilized in the way that you challenged my product and I have great respect for you as you are one

of the very few that disagreed with me..... YET, kept it civil and polite. A quick search of the automotive forums, with respect to this topic, will show huge controversy and

and some very uncivilized responses and attacks on both my product and myself. I felt much more comfortable explaining CoW BOOSTER! here than any other site....ESPECIALLY HPT's.:sly:

As I expected from my past experiences on EFI LIVE FORUM, this is and has always been, a very "SMART AND PROFESSIONAL" place to share information and sadly, there is likely no other forum

where it is as civilized as it is here.

It's ok to disagree, but as I said earlier, please know that some things in this wold work very differently in real life than they work on paper. This is one of those things.

I encourage you to try it and I'd like to offer it to you for FREE to evaluate...Again, no cost to you and just know that loading in your last tune will disable it should you not like it or want it.

I can follow your logic in the paragraphs above, but again.... To experience it in person is all we need to dispel the opinions you've posted above.

My "advisers" have encouraged me to discontinue the "technical" explanation of how it works and let my customers speak for me. We're actually working on a video that mixes tech with testimonials

which we think will be the better way to go with marketing.

Please consider my offer and THANKS for the intelligent and civilized discussion.
Chuck CoW

[Wheelz]

Thank you for the discussion as well. Good luck with your product.

I don't know who your advisors are, but from an engineer, testimonial advertisements don't convince me of anything. Ever. There are too many gullible people out there who get caught up in buzzwords and it's easy to hide gimmicks with no technical explanations. Maybe that's what the rest of the world wants.

Just my .02 on that. Again. Good luck

[gmh308]

If COW booster customers love the seat of the pants result - more torque sooner on the pedal travel - their testimonials speak the truth. Perception is reality. So many people complain of saggy throttle response on GM cars and trucks and this is a/the solution which fixes that complaint and helps those that can use a pedal precisely to enjoy their rides so much more. :)

[minytrker]

Is this something you can do through email? Can I email you my stock G8 tune, you install your cow booster and then I can load that back in my G8? I tuned my G8 the day after I bought it, which made a huge difference in drivabilty and performance. I don't see how your booster will make it even better than it is since its tuned already. Will I see a difference in a data log?

Lorenz
LSX Powertuning

[Chuck CoW]

Is this something you can do through email? Can I email you my stock G8 tune, you install your cow booster and then I can load that back in my G8? I tuned my G8 the day after I bought it, which made a huge difference in drivabilty and performance. I don't see how your booster will make it even better than it is since its tuned already. Will I see a difference in a data log?

Lorenz
LSX Powertuning


Hey Lorenz I know this is confusing, but I can NOT e-mail CoW BOOSTER! to you. I must have the pcm here for an install. However, AFTER CoW BOOSTER! is installed, I can e-mail changes to you. You won't see it in your tune, but it's there.

Additionally, I'm not sure what you plan to datalog, but I suppose you could.

You won't need the datalog to know the difference!!!!:w00t:
Chuck CoW

[joecar]

...
I felt much more comfortable explaining CoW BOOSTER! here than any other site....ESPECIALLY HPT's.:sly:

As I expected from my past experiences on EFI LIVE FORUM, this is and has always been, a very "SMART AND PROFESSIONAL" place to share information and sadly, there is likely no other forum

where it is as civilized as it is here.
...Chuck thanks for the kind words :cheers:

[joecar]

If COW booster customers love the seat of the pants result - more torque sooner on the pedal travel - their testimonials speak the truth. Perception is reality. So many people complain of saggy throttle response on GM cars and trucks and this is a/the solution which fixes that complaint and helps those that can use a pedal precisely to enjoy their rides so much more. :)+1 I've had a lot of people complain about OEM DBW throttle pedal response.

[Chuck CoW]

+1 I've had a lot of people complain about OEM DBW throttle pedal response.

Most people complain about it, and until now, there was absolutely NOTHING you could do about it.

If you didn't know about it before, when you try CoW BOOSTER! you'll quickly figure it out!

Thanks Joe!
Chuck CoW

[GMPX]

There are too many gullible people out there who get caught up in buzzwords and it's easy to hide gimmicks with no technical explanations. Maybe that's what the rest of the world wants.
You mean the $5 'power chips' on Ebay don't work?

Moving on from the E38 to the later ECM's where throttle response can be changed with EFILive I have done a little bit of messing around with it and I've found that how the factory has it set is a good compromise setting and changing it has upsides and downsides. I'm not criticizing Chuck's product, but I am with Wheelz on this one. For example, I changed the response so the blade opened at a much higher rate than stock, which at low speeds make the car feel very responsive and had plenty of go, but the problem is what it does is squash down the amount of usable power in to a small area, so up to say 30% at the pedal the engine responded aggressively (lets assume 30% pedal was 70% at the blade). As Wheelz said, the power gain between 70% and 100% at the blade is far different to 0% - 10%, the change in engine power from 70% blade and up is bugger all (at least on this engine). So the result of that is from 30% and up at the pedal the engine made absolutely no more power, it is a very strange feeling to move your foot from 30% to 80% and nothing happens, nothing happens because the engine is already at max power by 30% pedal.
Reverse parking on a hill can be an issue too if your throttle is too touchy, just little things you might not think of.

I am sure Chuck has done many miles of testing to get the feel right, and maybe the factory had it too soggy to begin with, but before I did my own experimentation I also thought GM got it wrong, but now I understand why they are like they are.

[Boost]

Your PMs are full. Thanks! The E67 won't be coming out, it's the daily driver of a police officer friend besides his cruiser. Can you send an E38 up front so it's a same day swap? How about a G8 6.0 GT???

[Chuck CoW]

You mean the $5 'power chips' on Ebay don't work?

Moving on from the E38 to the later ECM's where throttle response can be changed with EFILive I have done a little bit of messing around with it and I've found that how the factory has it set is a good compromise setting and changing it has upsides and downsides. I'm not criticizing Chuck's product, but I am with Wheelz on this one. For example, I changed the response so the blade opened at a much higher rate than stock, which at low speeds make the car feel very responsive and had plenty of go, but the problem is what it does is squash down the amount of usable power in to a small area, so up to say 30% at the pedal the engine responded aggressively (lets assume 30% pedal was 70% at the blade). As Wheelz said, the power gain between 70% and 100% at the blade is far different to 0% - 10%, the change in engine power from 70% blade and up is bugger all (at least on this engine). So the result of that is from 30% and up at the pedal the engine made absolutely no more power, it is a very strange feeling to move your foot from 30% to 80% and nothing happens, nothing happens because the engine is already at max power by 30% pedal.
Reverse parking on a hill can be an issue too if your throttle is too touchy, just little things you might not think of.

I am sure Chuck has done many miles of testing to get the feel right, and maybe the factory had it too soggy to begin with, but before I did my own experimentation I also thought GM got it wrong, but now I understand why they are like they are.


Trust me..... Given the popularity of the product and the number of installs I do, I can tell you that I've got it right....and it's well received.

Given the volume of CAN BUS GM CARS and TRUCKS I tune, maybe 1 out of 100 declines the booster install....EVERY tune customer gets it.....and loves it.

I've had people request to remove it when going back to the dealer for service, selling a car and things like that and every time I do that for someone

I get a phone call from them 10 minutes down the road.... THIS FREEKIN THING SUCKS!!!! I CAN'T BELIEVE I DROVE IT LIKE THIS BEFORE!!!!

As I've said before, how it looks on paper by the numbers and how I do it and what people think of it....there are no die effects like you mention above....

REMEMBER: I've made the throttle more linear despite what WHEELZ and others might have convinced themselves of.... It works and people love it.

Don't knock it till you try it.......If you try it your GUARANTEED to like it.....Despite what you think.:w00t:

ROSS: Let's hook up at SEMA and I'll CoW BOOST! Your rental car! You'll be convinced!!!


Funny thing about this.... I HAVE CREATED THOUSANDS AND THOUSANDS of LS1 tunes where I messed with the ETC tables... It made me VERY popular years ago

and less than a fraction of 1% op people didn't like it.......

I've seen posts of MANY tuners doing it and not getting it right.... There are very few of us that continue to do it and I can tell you, when you mess with it

the settings are EXTREMELY PARTICULAR and even more particular in the C6 and 90mm throttle cars..... Not having the experience of fooling with this stuff,

I would recommend that you leave those tables alone.

For what it's worth.... It's a huge product for me and everyone goes crazy for it.....

If you've got a problem with that and you're trying to discourage people from trying it....it's not working.

On all of the forums where the nay-sayers are trying to talk it down, the threads grow by pages and pages and views go into the 1,000s....

Funny thing is.....every time one of these threads "blows up" with all the banter.... My phone rings and rings again with orders.....

THANK YOU!
Chuck CoW

[Wheelz]

REMEMBER: I've made the throttle more linear despite what WHEELZ and others might have convinced themselves of.... It works and people love it.



Really?? Seems like I said exactly the same thing?


So if you dump power in linearly on a 500 hp engine (which your booster is approaching that, while not going that far)

Chuck, I appreciate your discussion, however you should actually read your critics posts on occasion.

Sorry, I said I was done. I'm done now.

[Wheelz]

You mean the $5 'power chips' on Ebay don't work?

They work just as good as Hi-Def sunglasses :D

[RD in SD]

I realize this is kind of an old thread but I did modify that table on my 09 Z06 that has a Harrop Hurricane on it and 700HP. It dramatically reduced the rate at which the throttle opened and it made the car much more drivable. With 8 55mm throttle blades I would barely touch the throttle and the car would rev to 2000 RPM making drive ability very difficult but it sure felt fast. Now I can back out of the garage without spinning the tires. No codes no issues, here is my table.

39.999389 39.999389 39.999389 39.999389 39.999389 39.999389 39.999389 39.999389
50.000000 50.000000 50.000000 50.000000 50.000000 50.000000 50.000000 50.000000
64.999389 64.999389 64.999389 64.999389 64.999389 64.999389 64.999389 64.999389
80.000305 80.000305 80.000305 80.000305 80.000305 80.000305 80.000305 80.000305
99.998474 99.998474 99.998474 99.998474 99.998474 99.998474 99.998474 99.998474