View Full Version : Newb Setting up serial Wide band
HellKnightHicks
October 13th, 2011, 05:56 PM
So Im totally new at this and was wondering how do i go about setting up my new serial wide band sensor for inovate to work with EFIlive
For doing my Auto VE
I see some information in here
http://download.efilive.com/Tutorials/PDF/AutoVE%20Tuning%20Tutorial.pdf
But im wondering if its different for the serial wide band?
This is the sensor i have
http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3781-Wideband-Standalone/dp/B001QFDZU0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I1H8EVCK91MK75&colid=2QJYGDN3NXT1S
Thanks
joecar
October 14th, 2011, 02:49 AM
Hi HKH welcome to the forum :cheers:
Which year/model/vehicle do you have...?
Setting up V2 for serial wideband data from LC-1:
V2 serial/digital wideband logging:
showthread.php?t=8858 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=8858)
showthread.php?t=8115 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=8115)
showthread.php?t=10251 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=10251) post #2
V2 serial/digital AFR input (LC-1):
showthread.php?t=8115 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=8115)
showthread.php?t=7532 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=7532)
showthread.php?t=8348 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=8348)
showthread.php?t=9340 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=9340) post #3
. . .
LC-1 free air calibration from V2:
showthread.php?p=93571#post93571 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?p=93571#post93571)
Some tuning methods (look at how Lambda is used instead of AFR):
A-New-Twist-on-CALC.-VE-Table..Computing-the-Entire-VE-Table (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?15236-A-New-Twist-on-CALC.-VE-Table..Computing-the-Entire-VE-Table).
Calculating-MAF-Airflow-From-VE-Table..CALC-VET-In-Reverse (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?16413-Calculating-MAF-Airflow-From-VE-Table..CALC-VET-In-Reverse)
joecar
October 14th, 2011, 02:53 AM
If you want to do the AutoVE tutorial, use Lambda instead of AFR for the BEN (the Calc.VET tutorial has a calc_pids.txt file)...
i.e. define the BEN to be {GM.EQIVRATIO}*{EXT.WO2LAM1}
look at WO2BEN (CLC-00-110) in this calc_pids.txt file (from the Calc.VET tutorial): calc_pids.txt (http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=11329&d=1310000363)
joecar
October 14th, 2011, 02:56 AM
Also, you might want this:
Configuring V2 for BBL/BBF :
showthread.php?14351-BBL-PIDs-V2
showthread.php?13841-What-is-BBL
showthread.php?13836-New-V2-help-find-exlporer
showthread.php?15492-V2-BBL-saving-log-data
HellKnightHicks
October 14th, 2011, 01:19 PM
Thanks for the quick response ill see what i can figure out...
I have a 1997 chevy k1500
383
The parts list...
180-High Flow T-Stat
Magna core Spark Plug wires
BBK 82mm LS1 Throttle body
Marine intake Extensively ported and polished gasket matched.... no barbs or rough edges here.
45 lbs injectors.... not ordered yet
Patriot 185cc heads 64cc combustion chamber...
- ported
- polished
- gasket matched
- Combustion chamber ported and polished
- Stainless steel Valves 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust
Comp Gold Roller Rockers 1.6 ratio
ARP thick wall push rods
Guide plates
Custom Comp Cam
Intake
224 Duration
573 lift
Exhaust
230 Duration
568 lift
Lobe separation of
113
Part number
08-000-8 Grind CS3015/3036HR113+4
Scat rotating assembly 400 crank
Scat Connector rods 6"
Keith Black Pistons
-Heat Shield Coated
-Skirts Friction Coated
2 bar map sensor
HellKnightHicks
October 14th, 2011, 01:25 PM
So ordered that Wide band mentioned above and its no longer avaliable... discontinued....
What is the reccomended serial wide band sensor?
HellKnightHicks
October 14th, 2011, 03:22 PM
So im looking at this one
Innovate Motorsports 3844 MTX-L Complete All-In-One Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Kit
But ill order what ever you see to be the best avaliable.
joecar
October 15th, 2011, 04:06 PM
The Innovate MTX works just like the LC-1/LM-1/LM-2... it uses the same serial comms protocol so FlashScan V2 can talk to it, no problems.
HellKnightHicks
October 27th, 2011, 02:31 PM
So in order to get the LC-1 to hook up to the Flash and Scan V2.... for logging purposes.... What do i need to do pin out wise.... I dont want to use it as an analog..
Do i need to get another serial cable and splice it up...? Then put some leads into the Flash and scan?
joecar
October 27th, 2011, 04:08 PM
The quickest easiest thing to do is to order an LM-2 cable from here (check with him that this is the right cable for the MTX): http://taquickness.com/taqcables.htm
HellKnightHicks
October 27th, 2011, 04:38 PM
Great thanks for the quick response...
the sLC-1 cable is the one that fits the LC-1 controller.
LM-2 cable is for a different Innovate gauge.
Thx for pointing me to the right spot.
joecar
October 28th, 2011, 04:29 AM
Ah, of course, LC-1... for some reasom I was thinking MTX... :doh2:
No worries :cheers:
HellKnightHicks
August 22nd, 2012, 02:23 PM
Hey thanks for your help i finally got the engine running and am working with the auto VE stuff right now.
LC-1 is doing its job apparently.
joecar
August 22nd, 2012, 03:49 PM
How does it drive...? Are you boosted...?
HellKnightHicks
September 22nd, 2012, 01:56 AM
It acutually doesn't drive very well right now I'm trying to get the auto VE stuff done and that LC-1 issue occurred and screwed the pooch lol.
I will be boosted. I have a Whipple sitting in the basement waiting for those headers to go on lol. I also have a smaller pulley which should get me back up to 6-7 paid with the 383.
Have already put a 2 bar map sensor in there and made the proper adjustments in the tune.
Should have it back on the road this week.
Rich Z
December 12th, 2012, 08:51 AM
The quickest easiest thing to do is to order an LM-2 cable from here (check with him that this is the right cable for the MTX): http://taquickness.com/taqcables.htm
Heck yeah! I was hoping someone made a cable like this to bypass all the connections (which will be prone to working loose while driving). Just placed my order for one.
BTW, how are most of you hooking up your LC-1s power leads for temporary installs? I'm thinking about just splicing in a cigaratte lighter plug and calling it a day. Yea or nay?
Rich Z
December 19th, 2012, 10:48 AM
Ah well, I got this interface cable mentioned in this thread and got a question about it. Has anyone else found the male end that plugs into the female serial OUT jack to be a tad TOO big to fit? The plug on the stock LC-1 harness measures 6.9mm, and the one I got on this TAQcables custom cable measures 8.1 mm.
http://www.corvetteflorida.com/pics/lc1_connector_01.jpg
You can see the obvious difference in diameter.
Here's the jack it needs to fit into. The female jack accepts the male end, and that plastic collar extending from the jack grips the plastic on the plug end to hold it tight in place.
http://www.corvetteflorida.com/pics/lc1_connector_02.jpg
That is not a soft rubber collar around that jack. I tried forcing it, but both ends are rather flat against each other, and I'm afraid of splitting that collar by doing a "damn the torpedoes" assault.
Here's how it looks with the terminator in the IN jack on the harness showing how it fits. Even with the correct diameter it was a pretty darn tight fit.
http://www.corvetteflorida.com/pics/lc1_connector_03.jpg
Am I being too picky thinking that this should just be RIGHT for the application? Or is this another case of a part having "minor fitment" issues?
ScarabEpic22
December 19th, 2012, 12:26 PM
Mash it in, mine's been fine for ~3+ years now.
TAQuickness
December 19th, 2012, 12:38 PM
I don't think picky is your problem. I've offered you a full refund twice. Please, return the cable and accept the refund.
Rich Z
December 19th, 2012, 01:38 PM
I don't think picky is your problem. I've offered you a full refund twice. Please, return the cable and accept the refund.
Ah, I see. So tell me then, what exactly is it that you THINK is the problem here? I thought perhaps I had just gotten a bad cable, and wanted to check around to see if that is the case, but apparently that isn't the issue at all. You apparently don't use the correctly fitting male end on the cable. That should be plain from the photo.
Eh, so it's maybe $25 down the hopper. I'll whittle down the circumference on the end of it with a file or dremel to make it fit like it is supposed to, as I'm anxious to get my LC-1 hooked up. If that doesn't work, then I'll just use the kluge of original cables and null modem adapter, tape it all together, and call it a day.
Sorry if this has offended you, but I AM disappointed in your product and THIS is where I found out about it. And I am also chagrined that I held off hooking up the LC-1 waiting for this product to arrive. Take this feedback for what it is worth to you.
But thank you for the offer of a refund. I do appreciate at least that.
slows10
December 20th, 2012, 12:58 AM
I don't think picky is your problem. I've offered you a full refund twice. Please, return the cable and accept the refund.
LOL, your kidding right? Why wouldnt you instantly send him a cable that works? Its obvious from the pictures that the end was manufactured wrong. You didnt catch it when you shipped it. Its a simple mistake. Why tie the customer up with returning the unuseable cable and waiting for a refund? Send him the correct one at your cost. When he gets it im sure he would gladly return something that he cant use.
Rich Z
December 25th, 2012, 09:09 AM
Well I spent some time with a file and some sand paper and got the connector tapered down to fit the female connector on the LC-1 properly. Took maybe 15 minutes. Seriously guy, we're talking about less than $5 in parts here. Put the time and effort in to make what you sell FIT the application you are selling it for. If you can't find connectors that fit exactly, then MAKE the ones you can get fit the way they are supposed to. IMHO.
Anyway, after applying the necessary fitment changes, the cable worked as advertised.
dhjernigan
January 16th, 2013, 09:56 AM
I received my cable today and it is the same as Rich Z's, it will not fit without modification, the plastic on the end is too big around to fit into the LC1. Why would you sell a cable that has to be modified to work?? Doesn't make much sense, why not put the proper end on the cable?
David
ScarabEpic22
January 16th, 2013, 10:27 AM
Guys, all Ill say on this matter is that while it doesnt fit without forcing it in, it wont come out after 3+ years. And he's the only one making cables, I knew the fit wasnt perfect when I bought mine but I didnt want to hassle fabbing my own up.
This is all aftermarket performance stuff, sometimes a little tweaking is needed. If you dont like it, TAQ has offered a refund so instead of complaining about it, take him up on his offer and be out a few bucks for shipping instead of $25 or whatever.
EagleMark
January 16th, 2013, 10:52 AM
I did buy the correct one..... it always slips out!
Don't know if TAQuickness did this on purpose but it sure works good!
dhjernigan
January 16th, 2013, 11:30 AM
Ok, I lubed it and forced it and it did go in, so I guess it will be ok.
David
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