Question on Calc.VET

[Crisses]

If Calc.VET tunes PE/WOT, where do those changes show up (what parameter number). Using V1, analog WBO2, 2002 LS1 M6 Camaro.

[Taz]

Hello Crisses,

I would recommend the you read WeathermanShawn's CALC VET thread and instructions, and also the AutoVE Tuning Tutorial (it would have downloaded with the EFILive software).

The changes just don't "show up" - you need to create several tables in the Maps (F11) portion of the Scan Tool. These MAPs will mirror your Main VE Table (B0101) and MAF Sensor Calibration (B5001).

When you collect data during the tuning process it can be displayed in these MAPs, and then this used to modify the corresponding table (VE or MAF) in your actual tune.

This is a very general overview of the tuning process for an LS1-B PCM ... the tutorials contain specific instructions.


Regards,
Taz

[joecar]

Calc.VET does this (exactly what Taz said):
- creates a correction map for B5001 MAF table (you paste-multiply this into B5001);
- calculates a corrected map for B0101 VE table (you straight paste this into B0101).

Since you have V1, you have analog wideband connection, so you have to follow what the tutorial says about analog wideband/lambda

[ it tells you that your lambda pid will be your wideband's AFR pid divided by 14.7 ]


And, welcome to the forum :cheers:

[joecar]

Calc.VET tunes MAF and VE... you have to set your B3618 PE table to some suitable richness.

[Crisses]

Calc.VET tunes MAF and VE... you have to set your B3618 PE table to some suitable richness.
Thanks joecar and Taz. So I set up B3618 and then Calc.VET tunes PE to those values? If so, then that answers my question. I have Calc.VET working and the car is responding nicely. It was a bit scary on the first WOT when the AFR measured by my WBO2 was at 17! Next time out it was in the 13's. I need to take it out one more time and I suspect the WOT PE's will be very close to where I set them in B3618. MAF and VE's are looking good and I have a big grin on my face now when I drive it! :grin: Very impressive work gentlemen! :cheers:

[joecar]

Calc.VET tunes MAF and VE tables to produce those EQ's (use EQ and/or Lambda instead of AFR).

Yes, a tune makes a big difference to driveability. :)

Post your before and after tunes,and the log file.

[Crisses]

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Calc.VET tunes MAF and VE tables to produce those EQ's (use EQ and/or Lambda instead of AFR).

Yes, a tune makes a big difference to driveability. :)

Post your before and after tunes,and the log file.


The Calc.VET_0007.tun file is my most recent tun file. The DRH_0001_correct inj + Z06 MAF.tun file is what I started with.
The Log_0016.efi logfile is one I took today.

This is a 2002 LS1 M6 Camaro with heads, cam, LT headers, 92mm intake, 92mm TB, 85mm MAF, and 42 #/hr green tops. When I first got the car it ran, but had the wrong injector parameters and the wrong MAF parameters. So, I loaded the correct inj. and MAF tables and that's where I started. Looks like I'm still lean in the WOT area (frame 5060). Please let me know if you see anything "suspicious" or just plain wrong in my tun file - and thanks for taking a look. :grin:

[Crisses]

I am concerned about the "swing" that I see from the WBO2 in the logs I'm getting. I have Kooks high flow cats on my car and my WBO2 sensor is installed about 3 inches in front of the cat on the passenger side. I did this because moving it any farther forward put it in the header collecter. Now I'm planning to go ahead and move it to the collecter and see if that makes a difference in the amount of swing coming from the sensor. I'm thinking that the swing may be causing problems with Calc.VET producing good tuning results. Anyone have experience here?

[Crisses]

I moved the WBO2 sensor into the header collector. Now it is farther upstream from the cat and I also discovered that I had a leak at the header to exhaust connection. That is now corrected.
I am having troubles with the mixture going lean on WOT. If I go to WOT at lower RPMs (say 2500) the AFR reading from my WBO2 reads about 12.3, but it increases as the RPM increases. In the attached log file (frames 2900 through 2950) you see it go from 13.05 at 4607 rpm to 15.59 at 6080 rpm. :shock: Obviously, not good! My B3618 sets lambda at between .78 and .86 depending on rpm. Why isn't the car following this table?

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[joecar]

...
In the attached log file (frames 2900 through 2950) you see it go from 13.05 at 4607 rpm to 15.59 at 6080 rpm. :shock: Obviously, not good! My B3618 sets lambda at between .78 and .86 depending on rpm. Why isn't the car following this table?

Was MAF table corrected in that range...?

[Crisses]

The MAF table was not corrected as high as 6000 rpm, but probably was corrected to about 4500 to maybe 5000 rpm prior to the above log. Corrections from the above log have been input. I need to make another log to see the results. It is raining cats and dogs here so I won't be able to do this until tomorrow. I thought maybe that the MAF being off in the upper rpm range might have been the culprit and the more I think about it the more it becomes clear :doh2: The tune did make a pretty large change in the MAF upper range. Thanks Joecar for confirming this. I'll get back tomorrow with another tune/log file.

[Crisses]

Went for a tuning run tonight. WOT AFR is better at higher rpms. Tune/log files attached.
Question about how to change the number of cell counts for the filter "hide cells with low cell counts"

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[joecar]

On the map properties pop up box, the low cell count is on the Empty tab.

[Crisses]

On the map properties pop up box, the low cell count is on the Empty tab.

Thanks joecar. Now working a bit on spark. I've done some work on idle - followed the link on idle tips and tricks. Need to do more work here. Won't idle cold and have to keep pedal depressed slightly until about half way warmed up, then it smooths out and idles perfect. Car has 92 mm TB and intake. I think the throttle blade may have a hole in it - I'll have to check that. I'm thinking I have to change B4307 per the idle tips and tricks note #2.

[Crisses]

1239012391Thought I had it pretty well tuned. Made many iterations on VE and Maf tables. Finally set all parameters back so that MAF and VE would both be active and have been driving the car daily. One issue is I haven't figured out yet how to get it to start cold (0 - 10 C) without keeping my foot in it (~5% TPS) until it runs long enough to get into closed loop, then I can take my foot off the pedal. Other issue is the gas mileage - I'm getting 12 mpg driving conservatively around town. :ranting: I'm reading on the LS1tech forum about Patrick G making 500 rwhp and getting 25+ mpg. I've got to have something wrong. WBO2 is telling me my fuel is lean (16 to 17) at idle and crusing, and 12.4 at WOT, timing is at 27 at full power, feels really stong and responsive. This car has 85 mm MAF, 92mm fast intake/TB, heads/cam/headers/exhaust. I don't know what the heads and cam are - bought the car with the mods already done. Could the heads/cam combination be causing the poor mpg?
I'm concerned that driving around and at idle the WBO2 shows lean (16 to 17). I was looking at it in the driveway tonight at idle. Commanded fuel is 14.63, WBO2 averages 16.9. VE table cell at idle is 800 rpm and 65 kPa. Value was about 1.45. Tried lowering it to 14 and increasing it to 15 and didn't see much if any effect on the WBO2 reading at idle. I don't understand how the wide band can end up showing lean after tuning when Calc.VET uses the WBO2 signal to tune the tables. After tuning, the commanded AFR should be spot on with the WBO2 - right?. Ideas welcome....

[Crisses]

Thought I would update my progress on getting a decent idle. My best success was made by adjusting the throttle blade stop position and resetting the TPS to zero. I made many iterations and found that too far closed caused the engine to want to stall out when coming to a stop and pushing in the clutch. Too far open made the engine idle at 1600 rpm when coming to a stop with the clutch in. After coming to a complete stop, the rpm would gradually decrease to idle rpm after 5 to 10 seconds. Odd thing is that from this condition to the "sweet spot" on the throttle stop position was only 1/4 turn on the stop screw. I've been driving it now for a coulple days at this position and I haven't had any "funny glitches" yet - just a well behaved idle whether stopped, rolling, clutch in or out. Oh, and it starts much better when cold. Hope this helps someone.
Still have issues with poor gas mileage and not sure what to do about this when the car is running good.