HELP PLEASE!!! Im stumped..

[mattyfz450]

Ok for the past week I have been working with Zach at starlite diesel trying to get my truck tuned with efi live but we are running in to many obstacles. He is a great guy to deal with and I feel bad that my truck is giving us such a hard time. First we were getting a P0633 code that was showing up in the diagnostics but not throwing a cel light (I could clear it but i would come right back on immediately), as well as getting a p1222 code that was coming on after a hard run because my dam wait to start light keeps coming on after about 5 min of running the truck hard. We were pretty sure that my previous smarty and bully dog tuners were causing the issues so i took it to the dealership and had a completely fresh flash done on the truck in hopes to eliminate any junk left on the ecu from the past tuners. I then read that stock tune and sent it to him which he promptly sent back to me with a base tune that he had written with it. I flashed that one into the truck and took it out for a drive only to have that dam wait to start light come on once again after driving it hard for about 5 min although now I do not have the P0633 code anymore, only the p1222. Could someone please point me in the right direction??? we have tried many many different tunes and modification and just cant seem to get rid of this dam code (note that once that light comes on the truck goes into limp mode). Also, I did have the wait to start light come on one time with my smarty about 2 weeks after loading up the new tnt-r tune that had came out but i dont think that it went into limp mode at that time and all i did was clear the code and I never saw it again.... Please help... :bawl:

[TexasCummins]

Did this issue occur after the dealer flashed a stock tune or only after you re-flashed it with EFI?

[mattyfz450]

Did this issue occur after the dealer flashed a stock tune or only after you re-flashed it with EFI?

Only after I re flashed it with efi live... The only code it would throw with the dealer flashed stock tune was and over boost code because I took my boost fooler off for the efi live...

[mattyfz450]

Ive been reading about alot of people with smartys getting this code after they updated the smarty with the newest software and bob wagner posted on multiple threads that it was because of a bug that was in Chryslers software, but that they updated the Mads software to fix this problem so everyone just needed to update there smartys again and apparently this was fixing the issue. But im not using the smarty anymore obviously so im hoping i can figure it out with efi live...

[TexasCummins]

What OS and .cal version was the file the dealer flashed?

[DoghouseDiesel]

Okay, the P0633 is just that Invalid SKM Key. This one can get set by a bunch of things but doesnt set the CEL. It can be caused by aftermarket alarms, remote starters, add-on modules....anything that powers the ECM or runs it without the key in the ignition. Its really common on things like Edge Juice modules, but its harmless. Other than it showing when you read the codes, its harmless.

Now, the other code, P1222, is / was a known Injector Control issue and was cured with an updated flash. More than likely what you have going on is the file you are using is still using the calibrations from an older flash before Chrysler fixed the issue or its an older corrupted Smarty file.


Its needs to be done with a clean, unmolested OS and not scripted or you'll likely keep having the issue.

[mattyfz450]

....hmm im not really sure? Is there a way to look it up? One thing that I did forget to mention is that in the beginning Zach said he though that the original stock file that I had taken off of my truck for the first time had look like a California tune, so we tried to using a stock california tune and flashed that into my truck and changed the vin and all that, then read that back out and had him try writing other tunes off of that one with out any luck. So then when I brought it to the dealer to have them reflash everything back completely stock they told me that they could only flash back in another california tune because that is what they said it had when i brought it to them. So after the flash back in a new cali tune i use efi live and flash over that with the factory tune that I first pulled out of my truck in the very beginning thinking that that would put back in a regular federal tune and allow them to reflash it with another federal tune. But when they hooked up there start scan stuff again it still said that I had a california tune so all they could do it put another one in it... But I figured at least it was a completely new flash and maybe this would do the trick. I was wrong... after reading that freshly flashed tune out and email it to Zach and having him send me a tune back I still have the p1222 code and wait to start light... but it did get rid of the p0633. To say the least we are frustrated

[TexasCummins]

When you first open a tune file in V7.5 the description should have OS ID and Cal ID. I had the truck flashed by the dealer not too long ago to fix problems I was having and they put in the most recent file with an upgraded OS and calibration, I could send my stock file to you if you'd like.

[DoghouseDiesel]

I would ditch whatever you are using right now and start with a clean OS tjat has not been on that truck.

[mattyfz450]

That is what we had though so wouldnt having the truck reflashed completely to stock at the dealer and then reading that stock file and writting a new tune from that new clean file solve my issues??? im really confused...

[TexasCummins]

You should try another OS/Cal file. Here's the updated tune I got from the dealer, I'm assuming you're an '06 4x4.

Don't forget to put in YOUR VIN!

12357

[mattyfz450]

the OS is 11352602 and Cal is 35325533AW. And this is for the stock dealer flash that I read out of the truck right after they flashed it.

[mattyfz450]

You should try another OS/Cal file. Here's the updated tune I got from the dealer, I'm assuming you're an '06 4x4.

Don't forget to put in YOUR VIN!

12357

Ok so this is the stock file that you read off your when you got it from the dealership after flash right? and I should take this file, change the vin, flash it to my truck, read it out, and then send that to Zach to modify correct??

[TexasCummins]

Just change the VIN on the details page then send it to Zach to modify, no need to flash it to your truck to read back the same file. It would be a good idea to go ahead and flash it (after saving your VIN to the file) and see if there's no problems.

[mattyfz450]

thanks ill try that

[cumminsDK]

i have run into similar issues on duramax trucks. issues with tune, make script file using tune with issue and running script over new tune without issues, issues still there. be sure that this new file (from dealership or this thread) doesn't get anything used from the old file with problems, no copy and pasting from old file or scripting. i had issues either way on one particular truck and had to start from scratch and build a new tune

[DoghouseDiesel]

Exactly, don't script over this file.

You may have to do it manually.

If the script file has an issue, it may be causing yours issues.

[zfuller123]

Hey guys... wanted to chime in and let you know for sure what we've tried and what i've been doing with his truck to try and make it right.

First we started with the Smarty "returned to stock file" - which was the previously mentioned california OS. I did in fact build that tune from scratch, no scripting. Starting in baby steps with his truck as he's got quite the list of mods and wanted to be sure we had all the 'normal' things worked out before trynig to throw all the power at it.

When we started seeing the problems, i decided it was time to ditch the Smarty and get the stock OS from TUnefiledepot that matched, which was the California OS per the four digit match from the original stock file. This file i did NOT build from scratch though, but only brought over timing, pressure, main injection and post injection stuff... basic stuff, nothing fancy. Even left limiters alone originally. Ended up having smae problem, plus needed work on smoothing out the pressures and stuff to get rid of some surging. Changed limiters and tried 3 or 4 attempts at different variations of this tune, all doing the same thing - ONLY after driving it hard. Matt reported he could drive for hours under normal driving with no problems, only after hard driving of the truck, even though it is not 'turned up' very much, does this happen.

From here, i decided that we would start with a different file - and used the Federal tune that i believe most closely matched his truck and had the same OS actually as the California version. This time I did script over the changes from the 'new' California tune we had been trying. Felt pretty comfortable with doing that since it started as a known good tune.

After about 3 iterations of that tune, it was apparent that we didn't gain anything, so went back to the California version of the tune and tried about 5 more tunes to try and work it out.

Again, this is only happening after hard acceleration - not sure if that is an indicatory. The data logs show beautiful - rail is holding commanded almost perfect, RPMs are there - shifting is how we want it.... then, at random time after hard acceleration (can be almost instant or up to 5 minutes later) - boom the light comes on, and it's in a limp mode of sorts.

From here, and due to the P0633 code and having tried basically 3 differnt 'stock' files in the truck, i told him i thought it best to make a trip to the dealer to see if we weren't fighting some other remnants of the Smarty or other previous tuners (had a bullydog on there at one point too). The dealer flashes did eliminate the P0633 code completely, so I thought we were onto something. I did however, script my changes over from the tunefiledepot california tune to this new dealer stock file. I will go back and make a small number of changes to the dealer fresh file (OS ending 602) and then see if I can isolate the area of the tune at least that might be the main problem, or if we doing it by hand is the answer.

If you have any other ideas, please let me know. I did download the stock file posted earlier on this page so we can try that too... Just haven't ever had this issue on a truck before (had plenty of other issues getting em dialed in, but this one is new to me)...

Thanks for all the input! I will share all the results here so maybe someone in the future can learn from my screw ups :-)

[Dmaxink]

I have a truck doing this SAME thing!!! If i try another fresh OS in it..the truck will not code, but sadly for whatever reason it will not allow me to change vin (yes i have changed the vin on many many trucks so i know how to do so)....Very frustrating problem..when the truck gets back around im going to do it again and send the data to Paul/Ross.

[TexasCummins]

Zach let me know how it turns out with my stock file, if you use it.

[GMPX]

Check that the VATS has not been set to disable in the tune (E6510). If I recall, the 'update' from Dodge had that set to disabled for some reason and would throw the SKIM code as a result. If it is set to disable, change it to enabled, make sure the VIN is correct for the truck (if not, change it in the scantool) and it should be good to go.

Cheers,
Ross

[IdahoRob]

So the truck runs well without coding with the new completely stock tune from the dealer?

[zfuller123]

It runs good, and the P0633 code is gone now.

I have been sending new tunes all day, and finally we have a winner it seems. No codes in testing so far except when trying to disable the BTM. That sets P0602. Turning it back on removes the code :-(

The most recent tune now has all the mm3 and Pulse limiters disabled, and he will be testing that tomorrow. Trans shifting and lockup are good - just a matter of seeing how it runs fully fueled. This is the point we were at and kept getting the damn P1222 code and wait to start light which caused it to 'limp' before. However, taking the advice here the tune was built 100% by hand - no scripting from the previous versions, etc... Hopefully the problem is solved. I'll report back more tomorrow when he's had a chance to go test it.

Thanks for the input from everyone.

[DoghouseDiesel]

Ya gotta love when ya get one that has the "Ghost in the machine".

[TexasCummins]

Ya gotta love when ya get one that has the "Ghost in the machine".

Been there, done that and it caused an internal ECM failure code... wasn't fun!

[DoghouseDiesel]

Been there, done that and it caused an internal ECM failure code... wasn't fun!

As soon as he said that it previously had a Smarty AND a Bully Dog, I'll admit I cringed a little bit.

That's like mixing beer and liquor....its fun while it lasts, but somebodys not gonna feel so good in the morning.

Everytime I have someone the has played with both of those it causes issues.

[zfuller123]

Ok

So updates....

So far so good, other than i'm not able to disable the BTM and Intake Air heater.... so, gotta work on that. Everytime i disable either of them - get check engine with P0602 code - but other than that, we're in business on this one! Got some logs to go over this morning to get him his max effort tune, but outside of that - have pretty much all the drivability issues worked out aside from not being able to disable those two functions without codes.... so I think we can finally say we're over the hump on this one.

Kinda weird set of issues, but whatever it was i'm just happy to be past it. So is he :-)

[AdamRRT]

I agree I was REALLY worried, since I've had the Smarty, BDTD, and Predator all on my truck in the past trying to see what one I liked the best. I think the Predator was the most problematic though. That thing HATES to be removed from the ECM.

[mattyfz450]

Just another update on how the truck is running now that I have driven it a bit more: Still seems to be shifting good (I would like to be able to get it to lock in 2nd gear and stay locked under wot during a launch if that is possible), and be able to turn of the "boosted launch limiter" (can remember the correct name). Egts are reasonable when taking off from about 65mph in overdrive locked @ about 1500, but if i get on it with out the converter locked at a lower speed and its reving out through the gears then egts do get too hot (around 1700-1800 if i dont let out), but i think once we can get it to lock in 2nd under wot then that should help lower them considerably (all egt's #'s are fuel only without any water which i can spray to cool things down if needed). Boost is maxing out at about 65 psi (which is the same boost # that the regular tnt tune was making, the tnt-r was making 70 psi but with very hot egts even in overdrive locked (these egt and boost #'s were with spraying alot of water to cool things). And rail pressure is holding at around 25k which is better than it was with the previous full fuel tunes we've tried (also much better rail pressure that the tnt tunes had, they made around 22-23k with the mp8) so they sucked the rail down pretty quick. We are definitely making good progress. Oh and we also still have NO CODES SHOWING UP!! which is awesome. Thanks zach

[mattyfz450]

I agree I was REALLY worried, since I've had the Smarty, BDTD, and Predator all on my truck in the past trying to see what one I liked the best. I think the Predator was the most problematic though. That thing HATES to be removed from the ECM.

Did you ever run into any issues tuning yours after running all those different timers? I've ran all of them as well in the past. Maybe that's why I needed a full reflash at the dealer...

[AdamRRT]

Did you ever run into any issues tuning yours after running all those different timers? I've ran all of them as well in the past. Maybe that's why I needed a full reflash at the dealer...

No problems at all here. Just the usual rare tune that will throw the ABS/AB codes. But I can flash it to stock and put on a good tune and be great.

[FUBAR]

Alright..not really on topic, but same subject, I'm having my ECM flashed with the pto high idle enable tomorrow at the dealership. I'm having some limiting woes that have me pulling my hair out right now. So to be on subject, I will post the fresh flash of my truck to all applicable places for people to have. It's a '06 Mega Federal Auto. I think it's idiotic that I have to pay for an 'update' anyways. I mean, shouldn't that be part of purchasing the vehicle?? They do it with tractors and other various heavy equipment.

[DODGE74]

Cant you use this ECM read? It has the high idle enabled. Plus its free.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=39

[FUBAR]

Cant you use this ECM read? It has the high idle enabled. Plus its free.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/downloads.php?do=file&id=39

Thanks, but I've tried that one. When I go to the dealer, they will flash an update to my original OS from the factory. That in itself may be part of my problem. A funny thing I noticed when flashing. A 01 OS came stock on my truck, flashed an 02 OS, flashed a Smarty tune, returned back to stock, and it automatically put the 01 OS back in there. There's got to be something hard coded into the ECM to tell what came installed orginally or something to that nature. Thanks though.

[DODGE74]

Your welcome, just trying to save you the trouble and some dough.

[TexasCummins]

Thanks, but I've tried that one. When I go to the dealer, they will flash an update to my original OS from the factory. That in itself may be part of my problem. A funny thing I noticed when flashing. A 01 OS came stock on my truck, flashed an 02 OS, flashed a Smarty tune, returned back to stock, and it automatically put the 01 OS back in there. There's got to be something hard coded into the ECM to tell what came installed orginally or something to that nature. Thanks though.

My take on it is that the Smarty (not sure about other tuners) saves the FIRST config file it comes into contact with out of the box as "stock" then even though you change the base tune before flashing with the Smarty it will always flash back that first stock file.

[DoghouseDiesel]

The Smarty does not save any file from your truck.

It has a file loaded on it. All it does is load that file on your truck.

[TexasCummins]

The first time I used my J-06 it spent a minute or two "Copying stock file..." and hasn't done it since.

[Dmaxink]

Amazing that warranty hasnt picked up on this with a "returned to stock" smarty vehicle considering they generally come in with a different OS than they were originally flashed with eh?

[FUBAR]

Just to follow up in my case, a update flash from dealer cured all of my woes. They ended up installing a whole different OS. I had the pto high idle enabled as well. I've posted in Comp'd's EFI library. Will post it in the tune file depot when I get a chance.

[DoghouseDiesel]

The first time I used my J-06 it spent a minute or two "Copying stock file..." and hasn't done it since.

The only thing its doing is seeing you trucks configuration, key counts, etc.

It DOES NOT save your OEM tune.

When a Smarty "returns to stock" it's not the same file that was there.

This is why, for example, if you buy a used Smarty and your truck has a newer flash on it than the Smarty does, the Smarty will give an unrecognized software error until you update it.

[flat_lander]

As soon as he said that it previously had a Smarty AND a Bully Dog, I'll admit I cringed a little bit.
That's like mixing beer and liquor....its fun while it lasts, but somebodys not gonna feel so good in the morning.
Everytime I have someone the has played with both of those it causes issues.

Ok, so I like mixing drinks. I read out my file, and it gives me the dreaded: "Incomplete, Do Not Flash" message. Sooo, I cannot follow the instructions with the new release candidate because it is more than a simple checksum problem. Going to the dealer right now is not an option either. My wife would quite literally kill me if I had to spend any more money right now on my truck after getting EFI Live. I can hear it now. "let me get this straight, you have to go to the dealer to fix your perfectly fine truck because you could not leave it alone in the first place, and then you are going to molest it again???"

So with a 2006 Mega 3500 4x4, which of the below files would be more likely to work? Is there a real difference between 2500/3500? I'm guessing most of the difference is the Federal/California versions, but I don't know that for certain. To me, it would seem TexasCummins tune is newer, and the one I'm leaning towards but would like confirmation


You should try another OS/Cal file. Here's the updated tune I got from the dealer, I'm assuming you're an '06 4x4.
Don't forget to put in YOUR VIN!
12357


Just to follow up in my case, a update flash from dealer cured all of my woes. They ended up installing a whole different OS. I had the pto high idle enabled as well. I've posted in Comp'd's EFI library. Will post it in the tune file depot when I get a chance.

[FUBAR]

Apply the patch, update the checksums, and re-save the file. Ez-pz.

[flat_lander]

I finally found the upgrade after restarting the tune tool with the V2 plugged in. However, after I performed the upgrade, it still shows incomplete, do not flash. The Update Checksum box never appeared. It still shows Disable Checksums. Or is there something else i'm missing. This is from the manual, so it looks like I'm sol for the upgrade patch.

"Note the status of B9999 says 'OK To Flash', indicating you can safely use this file after following the directions that follow below."

[ScarabEpic22]

Are you using the latest public beta, RC8? Download and install the V7.5 and V8 applications from this thread: Release-Candidate 8 Jan 06 2012 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?18135-Release-Candidate-8-Jan-06-2012)

[flat_lander]

Yep, that's the one that I'm using. And it's a first time install, so it wasn't auto upgraded.

[2007 5.9]

Then you need a fresh file and throw away the other file.

Something didn't get replaced from bully dog...besides the checksums.

[flat_lander]

I guess I'll find out if the file from TexasCummins works, because that's what I've been working on today.

It's the first time I've worked on this, and the timing part has me a bit gun shy. When I open up the calculator in EFI Live, the values seem to go haywire. I'm thinking I should just use the separate excel timing calculator, because it seems to make something that looks more reasonable.
1260012601

[2007 5.9]

Those values in the first picture WILL cause issues if ran for a prolonged period of time...you eithre have a serious issue with your pressure table or your pulse table.

Those 60* values are BAD.

[flat_lander]

That's what I'm thinking. The strange thing is, when I pull the values out of pulse and pressure and paste into Josh H. timing stand alone excel timing calculator, I get what looks to be the more normal looking timing values on the right.

[2007 5.9]

Im wondering if your value in the lower part of the timing calc is wrong....

[ScarabEpic22]

For kicks, try flashing the file TexasCummins provided in STOCK. As in, no changes, just see if it runs your truck. Then you can either read it out and use that, or start modding the stock tune.

[flat_lander]

Well, other than running like a big turd, it seems to work ok. I didn't take it for an extended test drive, but it went down the highway good. The only strange thing is that it does not have high idle enabled.

I'm still puzzled why the timing calculator is messing up for me. That is the only part I'm lacking for my first tune improvement.

[2007 5.9]

I would not base my tuning solely based on the calculator.

Benefits are to be had from simply smoothing the stock table...

[TexasCummins]

The only strange thing is that it does not have high idle enabled.

That's because my file doesn't have the Idle Up feature enabled.

Guys here is my latest stock file that fixed all of my problems and what my new tunes are based off of. This file was flashed into my truck by a mobile reflasher we deal with at work and not a dealership, just don't forget to change the VIN and FYI my truck is a 2006 automatic 4x4.

12603

[flat_lander]

Is it different that the other one you posted a short while ago?

[TexasCummins]

It drives much nicer than the previous one I posted that was flashed from a dealer.

[flat_lander]

That's pretty funny that a dealer provided flash for your truck wasn't that good...well, not for you. But still.

[TexasCummins]

Yeah I was amazed, it runs much better on that tune than when I bought the truck. The way that tune was created was Rick erased the ECM and using his laptop and programmer subscription to Chrysler he built a new tune based on VIN configuration and flashed that in.

[flat_lander]

Im wondering if your value in the lower part of the timing calc is wrong....

I'm trying to figure out what might be wrong. When you click on timing calc, it pulls from the other tables automatically, so I'm not sure how I could have it messed up. Not saying I don't, but just trying to figure it out.


I would not base my tuning solely based on the calculator.
Benefits are to be had from simply smoothing the stock table...

I guess I'm leaning towards just trying that while I figure out the calculator, but I'm thinking I need to change it some. I've added some fuel, and smoothed out the rail pressure map, but nothing out of the ordinary from what I can tell. That's why I'm confused on the results I got from running the built in calculator.

[TexasCummins]

How do I launch the integrated calculator?

[flat_lander]

While on the Injection Timing, Main Injection, Timing Base Table in the upper right hand corner to the right of the graphical map is a button labeled calculator.