Check my data logging

[dm79]

Hey guys. New to the site. I bought a v1 off a friend a while back and just got my car to where i can learn how to use it.

Now i have been going through all the tutorials and i see there is a huge learning curve but im sure ill get it soon. Little backround, i have been working on cars as a hobby for 15 yrs now. Done many engine swaps, routine maintenance even internal mods.

This time around i slapped a 2000ta ls1/t56 into my 89 240sx coupe. Not to drift with, just as a weekend warrior fun project car (im to old to be drifting but i have a love for nissan) This car is my weekend project car when im not working.

here is a list of the mods done to it

ls6 intake, 80mm tb (bbk) has a hole drilled into it (bought that way)
fueled racing long tube headers. rear o2's deleted 3" back to 3.5" out the rear
hushpower muffler
patriot extreme dual springs
zo6 5wire maf
new high pressure fuel pump
doubler roller timing chain
255 walboro intank fuel pump
vette fpr, braided fuel lines up to front
lc-1 wideband
efilive v1
all other supporting mods MINUS injectors (maybe later date)
I did all the internal engine work myself. built this thing up after about a year.
Got the car for 600 bucks. Its just something i been working on.

so Now i have put the cam in and fired it up. Of course it runs like crap. not big deal. thats why i bought efi live to teach myself how to tune. Im in no rush to get this thing running right. this is not my daily driver. the cam i bought for a great deal is a huge cam. Donkey dick. I know you can get better street cams but i just bought this one off friend for cheap. as you will see soon by the cam card i post its pretty hefty.

my basic goals are to get my car tuned by myself on going. Im not to worried about super streetable idle. this is a weekend only car. Just wanna get it running good and have some fun with it.

so here is the cam card

Serial # P 6926-09 Spec Card# 15576909
Part # 54-000-11 CAMSHAFT, LS1 CHEVY LS1/GEN III '97-UP
Core C54-11II CAMSHAFT BLANK, LS1 1997 UP 5.7 CORVETTE
Grind # LS1 3729R /3732R HR114.0
DURATION @ .050 INTAKE 238 ROCKER ARM RATIO
VALVE ADJ INTAKE .000 DURATION @ .050 EXHAUST 244 INTAKE 1.70
VALVE ADJ EXHAUST .000 LOBE LIFT INTAKE .3560 EXHAUST 1.70
VALVE LIFT INTAKE .605 LOBE LIFT EXHAUST .3600
VALVE LIFT EXHAUST .612 LOBE SEPARATION 114.0
DURATION .006 INTAKE C/L 110.0
TAPPET LIFT INTAKE 287 CAM ADVANCE 4
TAPPET LIFT EXHAUST 293 HYDRAULIC Y
VALVE TIMING .050 OVERHEAD CAM N
VALVE OPEN INTAKE 9 JOURNAL DIAMETER STD 2.165
VALVE OPEN EXHAUST 60 RECOMMENDED VALVE SPRINGS
VALVE CLOSED INTAKE 49 DEPARTMENT P
VALVE CLOSED EXHAUST 4 SPC INSTR FOR CUSTOMER



also i have flashed weathermanshawn's base tune ls1-m6 and os from the idle tips and tricks forum to start from.

ill now post up a couple logs of me just driving it around the block. I just wanna make sure im doing all the pid's right and if im missing logging something let me know. Please dont be to shocked by the numbers. I have not made changes to weathermans tune. Im just using it as a starting point. I know these huge cams can be tricky do to overlap.


so lemme know what you guys think about the attached files. Ill post another modified tune once i get better at understanding the autove tutorial

[dm79]

update disregard those last logs. I didnt follow the autove. this time i did follow it to a T and i had some problems. car wont run when i put it in gear and give it throttle. it just dies. im using weathermanseans ls1-m6 base tune (for small cams) thats posted in teh idle tips and tricks. FOLLOWED the autove proceedure. maybe its my 5 wire maf. although i read on one thread here if you fail the maf you can still leave it plugged in for the iat. not sure. and guess i need to figure out my map to make sure its working.

getting this sorted out so i can post some real logged data

[dm79]

ok i started off with ls1-m6 base tune
modified everthing per autove tutorial except the 15% across the veboard
ran my first log and followed the tutorials procedures.
applied my first log to tune, reflashed and made a second log. does it look like im heading in right direction?

[joecar]

Hi dm79,

Welcome to the forum :cheers:

so your cam is 238/244 114 @.050...?

I'm starting to look at your files...

[joecar]

Hi dm79,

There's not enough steady throttle.

Can you post pics of your BEN map.

Did you appy the transient filter before paste/multiplying the BEN map...?

What fuel are you using...?

[joecar]

DANGER: check your tunetool fueling units, you have it set to Lambda

(which means your initial setup of B3605 is inverted, i.e. dangerously lean at high load).

fix this like this:
- go Edit->Properties->Display, and under Commanded Fuel Values select EQR;
- close the tunetool and restart it;
- goto B3605 and redo the set up on this table (eyeball the units in the upper right corner of the 3D view).

[joecar]

Also, to get the MAF to fail quicker, in C6001 set P0101, P0102, P0103 to A-1Trip

(and when engine is running check that one of these is present, which makes the PCM read the VE table exclusively).

[joecar]

Set C3905 to a higher value, e.g. 85 kPa.

[dm79]

correct on teh cam size. and thanks for pointing out the lean lambda i will correct all this tonight and post up some pictures. thanks for the help so far!!

[dm79]

also i did apply the filter before copy and pasting. im using 93 octane.

[dm79]

on b3605 should i make my whole map look like the picture in v7.5 tutorial? or just the red rectangle. b/c my does not look like the whole picture. also i guess the reason i skipped this is i was following the v7 tutorial and i dont think this was in there..

I have applied the changes, just wanna know about my b3605 map. then i will reflash this first autove tune and redo my first log. that way i can start over. when logging is it best for me to do driving around the streets with lots of stop and go? or freeway?

first is tutorial map
and 2nd is how my map is now in my vetune

[joecar]

You want your B3605 to look like the left image you posted.

Set B3605 back to stock, and then modify the red rectangle (with EQR fuel units)...

[ cells outside the red rectangle will not be hit (look at the ECT) ]


Do a mix of streets and freeway, but use the throttle progressively and try to keep it steady if you can (applying brakes may help)...

>>> be safe <<<

[dm79]

You want your B3605 to look like the left image you posted.

Set B3605 back to stock, and then modify the red rectangle (with EQR fuel units)...

[ cells outside the red rectangle will not be hit (look at the ECT) ]


Do a mix of streets and freeway, but use the throttle progressively and try to keep it steady if you can (applying brakes may help)...

>>> be safe <<<


sweet i have it all fixed. will posts logs later today thank you. now when you told me to raise the kpa how did you know to do that? was that in the newer tutorial and i missed it? i just wanna know so i can understand the whole thing

[joecar]

Your cam idles at a higher MAP kPa than C3905.

[dm79]

Your cam idles at a higher MAP kPa than C3905.

thanks i just wanted to understand the reasoning. right now cant log till later today. but the car does idle horrible and when i first take off it wants to die and backfire... also exhuast sounds very sputtery. im guessing this stuff will be taken care of after we do the autove and focus more on idle and transition. correct.

[BLK02WS6]

When you post up the log, post the tune that was in the car when you did the log - makes it easier for us to help you.

Where is your IAT sensor located? It is reading extremely high! You need to move it or get some cooler air into that thing...

Another issue - you are doing this on stock injectors? You are wasting your time - they have to be replaced with that cam you have! What fuel pump do you have?

[dm79]

Blk good to see you here, I have no problem gettin bigger injectors.

MY iat is in the maf and they are both close to my headlight by fender. I'll post up pics later.

[dm79]

ok here is a picture of how my intake is and location of my IAT on my maf. (240's seem to have a problem with high IAT readings under the hood) also im using a walboro 255 fuel pump.

here is my first base autove tune thats on the car and my first quick log. also before the AUTOVE tune i just used weatherman's ls1-m6 base tune that is posted in idle tips and tricks.

[dm79]

oh and also if you watch my log dont freak out on the speedo signal... its 20mph to fast. im not really driving around that fast.

and sourcing some green tops now to swap on ;)

[dm79]

picking up some bosche 40lb injectors now :D these are specs

http://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/340042-intresting-find-bosch-injector-0280155868-a.html

[dm79]

36# depending on flow. Installing now. Guessing @ need to fix injector tables before going forward with tune

[joecar]

Measure rail pressure, see spreadsheet here (is your FPR vacuum-referenced or unreferenced): Calculating-Injector-Flow-rate (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?4821-Calculating-Injector-Flow-rate)

( on the spreadsheet use the EFILive tab )

[dm79]

Cool thanks

[BLK02WS6]

In da house :wavetowel2: Let us know how it goes after the injectors are in...

[dm79]

In da house :wavetowel2: Let us know how it goes after the injectors are in...



installing now... just got back from junkyard trying to yank a vlsd off an inifinity that drops right into my car. had it all the way unbolted except for drive shaft yolk nuts... they ended up rounding off after fighting it for 2 hours...

couldnt get a closed in wrench of them... open end and even flare just rounded them . correct size too. gonna go back tomorrow morning with a sawzall and cut the bolts off.

[dm79]

ok im learning the spread sheet, but also found the flow tables for these injectors since they are already available

edit im also following this thread. these are the exact injectors i have

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?12195-BOSCH-Fuel-Injectors-0280155868&highlight=

im using mr.prick "bosch 0280155868" script" for my tables. this should be correct. also he mentions something about a cax file in that thread. but i have no clue yet what that is and i see im not using an efi live custom operating system. . should i?

[dm79]

quick question. if i follow these tables on b4005 in his .txt for small pulse width adjustment he states
0,0.000,0,3.951

on the top of the text. i get later when you scroll down and he has the full txt to copy and paste into your columns and rows. but what is he talking about at the top?

[dm79]

quick question. if i follow these tables on b4005 in his .txt for small pulse width adjustment he states
0,0.000,0,3.951

on the top of the text. i get later when you scroll down and he has the full txt to copy and paste into your columns and rows. but what is he talking about at the top?

nevermind i figured it out, he is talking about setting the rows and columns etc etc. I GOT IT !! ;)

[dm79]

ok i changed my tables per mr.prick's .txt file on these exact injectors and.... car wont start lol. it will maybe sputter for split second. then nothing hahaha

this is my updated tune with the injector info changed. if im doing something wrong my mistake. still learning this stuff

[joecar]

If you copy the cax file matching your OS (12212156) to the folder Program Files\EFILive\V7.5\Calibrations then you will see a new table in the tunetool (B9021)...

retrieve Cax B from the zip file in post #12 here need-B9021-for-01250003 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?17699-need-B9021-for-01250003) and rename it to 12212156.cax and copy to that folder.

[dm79]

ok thanks ill try that

[dm79]

i also found the gm asa data. it does differ a bit from the txt that i listed here. so might try that in a little bit.

[dm79]

never mind i found where i messed up one table .its fixed now per asa and runs !!

[joecar]

which table was it, what was messed up...?

[dm79]

in b4001 if you look at the bosch.txt file i think its in different units. then if you look at my tune file i fixed it per the asa figures. my mistake.

so my b4001 now reads
LABELS Injector Flow Rate (Grams/Second)
Manifold Vacuum kPa {link: GM.MANVAC} Value
0 5.054688
5 5.085938
10 5.117188
15 5.148438
20 5.179688
25 5.210938
30 5.242188
35 5.273438
40 5.296875
45 5.328125
50 5.359375
55 5.390625
60 5.421875
65 5.445313
70 5.476563
75 5.507813
80 5.539063

and i misunderstood the b4001 bosch.txt file that says
[B4001]
;Row Data
;--- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
0= "40.117135"
1= "40.365155"
2= "40.613174"
3= "40.861194"
4= "41.109213"
5= "41.357232"
6= "41.605252"
7= "41.853271"
8= "42.039286"
9= "42.287305"
10= "42.535324"
11= "42.783344"
12= "43.031363"
13= "43.217378"
14= "43.465397"
15= "43.713416"
16= "43.961436"

[joecar]

Yep, 40 g/s vs 40 lb/hr is a big difference, glad you found it. :cheers:

[dm79]

ok guys so i have the injectors set for now.. and here is my autove tune and my first log, just so you can check it out. now from here on out i apply the filter as stated in tutorial and follow the tutorial for now correct. thank you for the help so far. im still learning that spread sheet even though i found the table data b/c in future i may wanna change or help a friend.

also this is my ben map avgerage before any filters applied. also this is from some short neighborhood driving, freeway, and some small 1-4 pulls

[BLK02WS6]

Whoa - B3605 is way jacked up! You are commanding way lean... Let me look over your tune and I'll post up some suggested changes.

[dm79]

CRap I don't know why I did that again. I'll fix it. I messed that up first time

[BLK02WS6]

Here, try this one...

[BLK02WS6]

I did a little initial work on your VE table for you. Also, fixed up B3605. Fixed your PE table. And a few other small things.

Put the above tune in and log it. Your VE should come a lot closer now. It takes some experience to get the hang of logging and then hand-working the VE...

[joecar]

question:

if B1902 is all zeros (i.e. zero torque lost on spark retard), when attempting to limit won't the PCM see zero loss so it retards even more...?

[dm79]

Ok cool guys. Will update tomorrow. I work nights

[BLK02WS6]

question:

if B1902 is all zeros (i.e. zero torque lost on spark retard), when attempting to limit won't the PCM see zero loss so it retards even more...?

I can't look at the tune here at work... I'll have to check it out later this evening...

Edit - did a search to get the name of the table and recall why I did it - I zero'd that one out because it is a transplant... if you don't do that on cars with TCS removed or non-existant, you will see that amount of timing pulled... Way back when, I chased my tail for quite a while trying to find what was pulling timing when a guy removed his TCS and ABS and didn't tell me...

[joecar]

Ok, I see, so you zero it when TCS is removed, thanks. :)


What about on a vehicle that still has TCS, what happens if that table is zeroed...?

[BLK02WS6]

Ok, I see, so you zero it when TCS is removed, thanks. :)


What about on a vehicle that still has TCS, what happens if that table is zeroed...?

Never tried it, but I would think that when the TCS engaged, the spark wouldn't be pulled... but, on these older cable drives, there is more than just the spark to TCS.

[dm79]

Update, I work weekends so have not had a chance to log. But did finish installing my vlsd.

[dm79]

my fist chance i have had to log just some driving around. im going to follow the tutorial on this one and post up new modified log

[BLK02WS6]

Go ahead and do the tutorial... when you post logs, post the tune that got you that log...

[dm79]

this is just my second log and ill apply filters again and do some more autove and follow tutorial throughout ;) lemme know if you guys see anything wrong when i post my next files. (farther into tutorial)

[BLK02WS6]

Lookin pretty good... Just for your info (if you want it) - here are the changes I would have made to the VE based on that log...

[BLK02WS6]

One more thing - can you log injector pulse width at idle - thinking your injector tables may need some work to lean out the idle - the VE is getting cut down pretty bad and it is still rich... might be limited by a minimum table.

Edit: I went ahead and revised the injector tables - put this in and see if it leans out the idle (if it leans it out too much, you will have to add back to the VE in the idle cells)...

[dm79]

Nice, I will compare the changes to original and load them up today

[BLK02WS6]

Nice, I will compare the changes to original and load them up today

You need to actually use the tune I posted above (0006) - there are changes to one of the injector tables that I made that you will not be able to see (and won't transfer over to your original) unless you are using .cax files...

[dm79]

ok here we go guys. lemme know what you think about the injectors. i think im still running little rich at idle 13.7 avg.. but im sure that will be adressed when i work on the idle. during driving im usually hanging around 14.7

[dm79]

oh i logged the injector pulse cycles too

[BLK02WS6]

Lookin pretty good... I made some more VE changes and some spark table adjustments. Next log, get some WOT in 3rd or 4th gear to see how it is....

Are you going back to the MAF, or staying speed density? Do you know how to tune the MAF table?

[dm79]

Lookin pretty good... I made some more VE changes and some spark table adjustments. Next log, get some WOT in 3rd or 4th gear to see how it is....

Are you going back to the MAF, or staying speed density? Do you know how to tune the MAF table?



I have not decided. I don't mind doing either. I don't know how to do maf tables but I don't mind learning. My main goal is to get the hang of tuning

[joecar]

To do AutoMAF, enable the MAF (C2901,2,3) and disable the VE (B0120), and with CL/trims disabled (B3801, B4205,6) do the same thing as AutoVE, but this time using a map having the same dimensions as the MAF table.

[joecar]

If you're installing a completely different MAF, then to obtain a starting MAF table, during AutoVE log GM.DYNAIR [g/s] vs MAFFREQ [Hz], filter out transients, and construct an initial MAF table... then later perform AutoMAF to fine tune it.

[BLK02WS6]

I do it slightly different than Joe describes above, but I'm sure the results are the same... I create a map like he says to log BEN for the MAF table and bring the MAF back on line. However, I keep the VE enabled - because of the concept of how the VE and MAF interact, the VE has more influence on fueling at lower RPM/airflow - so, when you start it up with the MAF back online, watch the MAF map that you create and see how far off the BEN is. I make short pulls from idle up watching this map - it takes a little practice on the throttle to make a nice steady pull up the map. As you go up the RPM/airflow, the MAF starts to have more influence on the fueling and the VE has less (percentage wise) - in other words, at high RPM/airflow, if you change the MAF table by 3%, it will have a lot more effect on fueling than if you change the VE table at that same RPM point by 3%...

I street tune a car first - much like you have done so far - tuning the VE, then tuning the MAF like I describe above. Then, when I get on the dyno, the tune is good for areas you can hit on the street (depends on how brave you are) and you have a pretty close tune for the first pulls on the dyno. When I go on the dyno, I would be in Open Loop with the MAF enabled. When I make pulls, I actually map BEN for both VE and MAF and change both at the same time - and it works due to the influence each has (as I said above)...

Not trying to overload you on info, just trying to give you some things to think about... There are several different ways to get the same result - when you do it a lot, you learn how to get results quickly. I don't tune as much as I used to, but back when I did it every day (I started when EFILive first came out - but quit tuning full time a few years ago for family reasons), there were no tutorials and not a lot of help available - those of us doing it had to understand the data we were obtaining and figure out what to do with it - makes for a better tuner than the person just copying and pasting without understanding what/why he is doing it...

[dm79]

Nice, I have no problem tryin to learn the maf as well. I haven't gotten to load the new tune. Blk mid you change spark advance during idle? Just curious and That helpsh when in lower rpm from stalling correct?

[BLK02WS6]

Yes, it should help to clean up the idle a little - will probably lean it out some too because it will burn a little cleaner... Also, making the base spark tables the same as the high octane will make for smoother transitions between tables. When you go back to the MAF, subtract 4 degrees from the entire low octane table, don't go back to stock...

If you do decide to stay speed density, you will need to go to a Custom Operating System to do it right... cross that bridge if you decide to do that.

[dm79]

ok here we go. blk are you still doing the tables by eye? should i keep doing autove or is there a point to where it gets to be to much? just curious.

[BLK02WS6]

Here you go. I am using your log chart/maps to make changes to the VE. Some of it is smoothing the table by eye (where there is not good data from the log). I would say you can move on to the MAF now. You can always continue to refine the VE, but there is a point of diminishing returns... If you get bored later, you can always go back to OLSD and tweak it here and there...

Not sure how you want to go about the MAF... I'm kinda behind the times as far as Calc.VET and Calc.MAFT - haven't worked with them yet...

[dm79]

ok, imma log some after this last change. things started to get a litter richer then last tune. especially when cruising in 6 on the freeway and idle. i was at around 13.7 last time now im at 12.7 on the afr's.. as for the maf if i cant get it to work right with my cam setup i can always go straight sd. then ill figure out the new os system

[BLK02WS6]

Going to a custom OS is easy since you have a 2002 OS - just follow the tutorial... You should be able to get the MAF working fine though...

[dm79]

so im going to log some more today. im still showing 12.7-12 during crusing speeds and 1st and 2nd gear around 2k rpms. is this more to do with injetor pulse width. or do i need to do some steady throttle holds around this area and do another autove. or will this be something more cleared up during the maf tuning idle etc

[BLK02WS6]

You can try to run another autoVe on it and see if you can get it leaned out a little in that area - the problem is that your cam idles and cruises (no and light load) at such a high KPA because of all the overlap it has. That means when you put load on it, it is already very close to the cells it goes to - when it was leaned out at idle and cruise, there is too big of a step from those cells to the load cells and it was lean under load. It is kind of a trade off because of the way the PCM extrapolates data from neighboring cells - make sense? Hope I'm explaining that okay... Just be careful that you don't lean it out too much and cause it to be lean under load in the nearby cells.

Also, after you get the MAF back on line and tuned, and you go back to closed loop, you can continue to work the VE based on LTFTs for cruise fueling.

On some cars with big cams, I have had the best results using a custom operating system and going to semi-open loop tuning - uses STFTs vice LTFTs...

[dm79]

That makes sense cause that's exactly what its doing. At light to no throttle it runs rich at 12-12.7. Not tryin to get ahead of myself but do you think I should go ahead and switch to custom os or start on maf. I don't mind doing either just whatever is best in long run

[BLK02WS6]

I would go ahead and switch to the custom OS - Follow the tutorial to install the custom OS (I would use version 3)... If you have any questions, post up!

[joecar]

+1 on the COS.

[dm79]

ok should i do os3 or 5??

[BLK02WS6]

Unless you have plans for nitrous, I would go with COS3...

[dm79]

ok i see i need to upgrade to 02020003 for cos3. now do i need to perform all the boost stuff and everything thats in the tutorial since im not running a boosted engine? or should i just follow my custom os setup tutorial to a T?

[BLK02WS6]

If you are going to keep the MAF, don't do the SD stuff. On a NA car, I copy the 100kpa column from the main VE table and paste that into the whole boost VE table just so something sane is in there. The other boost stuff you don't need. Once you do all of the flashes and reads the tutorial tells you to, post up the tune and we can look it over to be sure you got it right...

[dm79]

ok ill try that. i really dont care either way about the maf except for two things. i read that it helps with temperature changes, i live in tx and one day it could be 70 degrees and the next day 100... and it might be slightly better on mpg. now i know thats a far reach with my cam and build but *shrugs*

now this is just what i have read. if you think im better off with a straight up sd semi loop tune im down.

[BLK02WS6]

I would try the MAF and see if you can get it right with it in play... I have tuned big cam cars both ways with success... SD does take into account temperature changes by the way - just takes a little work to make sure the IAT table (under the COS folder) is dialed in. With this OS, It is easy to go SD if the MAF turns out to be an issue...

[dm79]

ok will do. thanks man. ill post up the tune file later this evening

[dm79]

ok guys i dont know whats going on.

my .tun file has operating system of 12212156 that means i need to load 02020003

i followed the instructions. flashed the full os flash of 02020003. then it said at the end it was succesful and needed to have a calibration flashed onto it.

i then opend my davin_autotuneve0005 that i had on the car. when i load it it saying ecm not detected then gives me a warning that theres no calibration on engine but it can attempt to read it or reflash over. i relfash over. then when i try to just read the .tun after like the tutorial says i still get the ecm not detected and same warning.. basically i cant read the ecm .tun and its telling me the calibration did not flash..

not sure what im doing wrong i did everything exactly as tutorial. i have tried a couple times now.

[dm79]

nevermind think i just figured it out. stupid efi live

[dm79]

when i went to flash onto it or read it, the controller for some reason changed from my usual ls1b to the e38 so it was not reading it. dont know why that thing changes sometimes and other times it stays on my type of ecm

[BLK02WS6]

It does that from time to time, and it is annoying...

Post up your new COS tune when you get it read out!

[dm79]

ok so i skipped the boost stuff and now im on the page 12 tutorial for custom 2/3 bar setup do i need to match my graph on left to theres on the right per tutorial? correct?

13115

[BLK02WS6]

Yes, only don't put 1.00 in or it will be in semi-open loop and use STFTs (see later in tutorial) - we don't want that till you are done with the VE and MAF... use .99...

EDIT - make that 1.01!!! damn equivalent ratio (thinking lambda)

[dm79]

ok i put the graph at .99

not sure if i need to do this since your saying i need to do ve and maf first lemme know , if so i can changet those below quick

"To control the fuelling exclusively via this calibration, you must also configure:
Engine->Fuel->Trim.
• {B4205} Closed Loop Temp Enable: Set to max setting
Engine->Fuel->O2->Parameters.
• {B4108} STFT Idle Enable: Disable"

[BLK02WS6]

Put 3647 at 1.01 - see my edit above - sorry, thinking lambda...

Yes, you want to set B4205 to max setting and B4108 to disable

[dm79]

ok got it. now do i need to run a couple autove? then move back to the tutorial with the maf correct?

wait i see there is more. so i need to do the 2bar map? i can skip mafless for now. what else

[BLK02WS6]

No, not the 2 bar map - you don't have that.

How about you give me a minute to go through your tune check it over - you have some out of range stuff... you can compare when I post it back up.

[dm79]

ok cool, i was doing same and comparing the cos3 to my old tune.

[BLK02WS6]

Here you go - fixed some out of range stuff, changed B3647 a bit (makes for a smoother transition)...

Did you leave those VE cells really low for the idle? Not sure how happy it will be with those couple cells so low...

Did you want to run Calc.maft - corrects the VE and calculates the MAF? you can do that, or go to autoMAF

[dm79]

SWEET thanks bro. as for the mainve cells i havent lowered them any. thats how its been since we been runnign the autove

[BLK02WS6]

No problem! Let me know how it goes - I might not be on here much the next couple days, I have a lot going on...

[dm79]

no problem thanks for the help tonight. just ran into nathan out at one of the meets here in dallas. nothing crazier than seein a fully built ls1 with rear mount 76mm turbo in a miata pushing 660 whp hahaha

[dm79]

quick question to black or joe. in the tutorial ti tells me to compare my current file with the very first stock one. then to update ve table and save it. and then log ltft etc. im guessing it does this so you can transfer your ve table back to stock settings.

however i have made many changes to my tun file that include injectors and couple other things blk has smoothed over. so should i go through the tutorial and look at my stock tune and just change back everything it told me to change to what was stock settings? then just save my current tun with the stock settings put back in. i.e. put the maff back to whatever it was before, dtc stuff engine fail temps stuff? am i correct on this? that way i dont have to go back and change all the tables for injector flows etc

[joecar]

Yes, so you can transfer you new VE table back to the file you want to run with (which includes injector changes etc...)...

you put the CL/Trims and MAF fail settings back to stock so you can run with CL/Trims and MAF on your new VE table...


i.e. your "stock" tune includes injector tables and CL/Trims enabled and MAF enabled and any idle tuning.

[dm79]

Yes, so you can transfer you new VE table back to the file you want to run with (which includes injector changes etc...)...

you put the CL/Trims and MAF fail settings back to stock so you can run with CL/Trims and MAF on your new VE table...


i.e. your "stock" tune includes injector tables and CL/Trims enabled and MAF enabled and any idle tuning.

I get that. Problem is my stock tune did not include my new injector tables and some other changes blk made to spark tables. So wouldn't it be better to stick with this final tune. Turn back on all stuff the tutorial changed and save that as new stock tune and go from there. Other wise some of the changes we made besides ve table will not be saved since they where not part of stock tune

[joecar]

Ok, but your final tune is set to disable CL/Trims and disable MAF... you could simply enable these.

[dm79]

yes thats what i was double checking that i could do. just go back and re-enable those and save it all as my new tune while i work on maf. thanks bro

[dm79]

ok guys heres my first base tune with modified ve and everything and bringing cl/trim/maf back online.

and my first log. its only a short log so fuel trims are still working there way down. they where at -12 now down to -8 when i stopped. everything seems to be running fine so far.

[dm79]

i also need to work on the transition from rolling idle to stop. 50% of the time when car is rolling and i push clutch in and go to nuetral the rollng idle whill hang high at 1700rpm. come to a stop and 4 secs later it will drop to 1500, then second later down to my 800 rpm. its kinda weird. even when rolling through a parking lot the rpm will jump up to 1700 when in nuetral.

thanks for hte help so far guys. its been a good learning exp.

my final plans for this car are just a street driven monster. i dont care to much about streetability. i have already been driving it in traffic. just want all out performance

[dm79]

I also don't know if its me but throttle response does now seem not as quick as sd LOL. Maybe its Just me

[BLK02WS6]

Hey, sorry I haven't been able to look at anything. One thing I see right away - weren't you going to use the semi-open loop fueling? I would do that - go to page 17 of the COS tutorial and read that... Also, how did you go about dialing in the MAF? As for the idle - use the throttle cracker and throttle follower tables to work on your rolling idle... lowering the airflow will lower the idle...

[dm79]

Hey, sorry I haven't been able to look at anything. One thing I see right away - weren't you going to use the semi-open loop fueling? I would do that - go to page 17 of the COS tutorial and read that... Also, how did you go about dialing in the MAF? As for the idle - use the throttle cracker and throttle follower tables to work on your rolling idle... lowering the airflow will lower the idle...



yes i am. i just got confused after the tutorial said to revert back to base tune and update ve. i didnt wanna lose all my injector tables and changes you made to spark and stuff by going back to the very base tune. so i just re-enabled the cl/trim/maf. i still need to dial in maf. and i will check page 17. just posted up this log to make sure i re-enabled everything right thats all.

just taking it one step at time. and take your time on responses im in no hurry lol.

i had the car out at a car meet the other day just for cruise. it got a lot of compliments and people freaked out that i did the swap myself. i met 1sickz off ls1tech. he drives a flat black miata with a fully forged ls1/ 76mm rear mount turbo. crazy car putting down 660 to the wheels in a miata lol

[dm79]

ok quick question im just little confused. you said i need to dial in the maf but then i need to look at page 17. 17 is about going mafless. so am i supposed to dial in the maf then turn it off again? just confused here

nevermind going to follow this

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?16413-Calculating-MAF-Airflow-From-VE-Table-CALC-VET-In-Reverse

[dm79]

Ok I'm little lost....if I follow that link some of the pid I do not have. LIke Ben wo2 serial and such. I'm little lost. What tutorial off this site should I be following to set up the semi open loop

[BLK02WS6]

I wanted you to read about setting up semi-open loop for after the map is dialed in - that is on page 17 of the custom OS tutorial. It is an alternative to closed loop.
To dial in the MAF sensor, you can use AutoMAF - basically use the wideband to dial in the MAF table like you did the VE... here is the summary:
AutoMAF:
- disable CL/LTFT,
- enable MAF (make sure DTC goes away),
- set B0120 to zero to disable VE,
- set PE safely rich to protect motor,
- capture log,
- create a WO2BEN map that matches B5001 (hint: copy the MAF table, then in the map row/col properties click Paste Label),
- apply transient filter to map,
- paste-multiply map to B5001.

Be careful when you start up the MAF table - watch the correction factor and make sure it isn't too lean. You can work your way up slowly, correcting a little at a time.

After you get the MAF table dialed in, you will put it in semi-open loop. Let me know if you can't find that section - it is on page 17 of the copy off of the help section of my tuning tool...

[joecar]

Semi Open Loop: in B3647 change the EQR 1.01 cells to EQR 1.00 (i.e. columns ranging from 20 kPa to 90 kPa in your tune file posted in post #100 above), like BLK02WS6 said (page 17).

[BLK02WS6]

Semi Open Loop: in B3647 change the EQR 1.01 cells to EQR 1.00 (i.e. columns ranging from 20 kPa to 90 kPa in your tune file posted in post #100 above), like BLK02WS6 said (page 17).

Hey Joe - He is getting jumbled up a little bit I think... Sometimes its hard for me to remember that not everyone has the "big picture" while doing this...

When you converted to the COS, you had pretty much finished the VE table using the wideband to get the correction factor in open loop (basically AutoVE). At that point, you don't want to go back to closed loop (or even semi-open loop) because we need to use the wideband to correct the MAF table in open loop (i.e. AutoMAF). Does that make sense?

Also, personally, I keep using the working tune vice reverting back to the base tune - I will run a compare with the base tune to make sure I get all of the values back to what I need to put it in closed loop, etc...

Here is your COS base tune set up as outlined above for AutoMAF - look at this and let us know if you understand what we are doing...

[dm79]

MAkes a lot more sense now. that's what I was thinking, the tutorial telling me to revert back and the other way was gettin me confused but I get it now.

i did just misunderstand and thought you wanted me to jump to page 17 and do it. but ok ill try to dial in maf now. ill use the tune you just posted up but to make sure i undrestand right. you left ltft off, cl/ off and just re enabled the maf using maf freq and dtc back on right? im comparing now.

and i copy my labels from my lc1 ben map and use those to make the new maf table map? right the one that i log.

[dm79]

quick question. in order to automaf do i need to change any of my pid's from the saved autove pid list?

i know i need maffreq to be logged. but should i add the other ones from the tutorial?

[joecar]

...

When you converted to the COS, you had pretty much finished the VE table using the wideband to get the correction factor in open loop (basically AutoVE). At that point, you don't want to go back to closed loop (or even semi-open loop) because we need to use the wideband to correct the MAF table in open loop (i.e. AutoMAF). Does that make sense? Oh (I didn't realize he hasn't corrected his MAF yet), yes, he needs to now correct the MAF in OL (with MAF enabled and VE disabled).


Also, personally, I keep using the working tune vice reverting back to the base tune - I will run a compare with the base tune to make sure I get all of the values back to what I need to put it in closed loop, etc... Yes, I think this is a good idea for the reason that the working tune has various tables set to better values... doing a diff for CL enable and MAF enable is a good idea, it allows you to change just those without making a mistake.

[joecar]

As long as you have MAFFREQ you should be ok, you can add other pids but remember to not exceed 24 pid channels.

[joecar]

...

you left ltft off, cl/ off and just re enabled the maf using maf freq and dtc back on right? im comparing now. Yes (LTFT off, CL off, MAF on), and disabled VE via B0120.




and i copy my labels from my lc1 ben map and use those to make the new maf table map? right the one that i log.Yes, a new map to look like the MAF table...

hints:

- goto tunetool MAf table, do copy-with-labels on whole MAF table; goto scantool map, goto map properties, goto Row tab, click Paste Labels; goto Col tab, click Paste Labels;

- checkmark all Show Units boxes in all tabs;

- remember to save map.

[dm79]

got it, i have it figured out now thanks guys. it was the reverting back tune, and stuff that got me confused. ill post some logs tomorrow. my filters will be the same as well?

[joecar]

Yes, transient filter.

[BLK02WS6]

Joe - thanks for taking over on the "nightshift"! I have to get up at 4:30am eastern time, so I can't really help while you guys are on here!

[joecar]

Likewise ("dayshift"), no worries :cheers:

[dm79]

Something strange happened today. I loaded up blk cos_0000 not the automaf one so I could drive it to friends house. Car didn't want to start. Like it Had no fuel

Loaded automaf tune back up and car finally had trouble starting with tIat tune. Weird. I'll mess with it today

[BLK02WS6]

Let me look at it and see what is up... all I did was take the one you were running and make a couple changes...

[BLK02WS6]

You didn't happen to forget to plug the MAF back in did you?

[BLK02WS6]

Got me scratchin... don't see any reason why either one of them won't run unless you had the MAF unplugged with the AutoMAF tune - that definitly wouldn't run LOL...

[dm79]

You didn't happen to forget to plug the MAF back in did you?


its been always plugged in. i have the 5wire zo6 maf. but just wired it happend. im about to reload up the cos_0000 tune again just to see what happens.

but here is my first log from automaf. i have not applied filters yet.

[BLK02WS6]

not log attached....

[dm79]

here is logs, did i do my map right?

[BLK02WS6]

can't see your map - those are created locally (I have to make my own), but you have the correct data logged... do a screenshot of your map and load it up so I can be sure you did it right... I'll correct the MAF and reload it so you can see what I would do...

[dm79]

heres the maps

[BLK02WS6]

Here you go... on the next run, push it up further in the MAF frequency - watch the correction and make sure it doesn't go too lean... should be pretty smooth at this point. Lookin good!

[dm79]

now after this i hit average, apply filter, and copy and paste with labels into my tune file just like autove right

[BLK02WS6]

No, the map isn't right - you need to put the BEN factor in the data tab... see Joe's explanations above if you need to... should look like this... with filter applied...

[BLK02WS6]

See my post 128 above for tune with changes applied...

after you get the map like mine - yes, average, copy with labels, paste and multiply with labels. Also, I ran the multiplier all the way out to the end of the MAF table and all the way down - manually... then, just to be sure we are a touch rich on the next pass, I added 3% to the whole table... make sense? Gotta go soon, but I'll check back on you tomorrow!

[dm79]

See my post 128 above for tune with changes applied...

after you get the map like mine - yes, average, copy with labels, paste and multiply with labels. Also, I ran the multiplier all the way out to the end of the MAF table and all the way down - manually... then, just to be sure we are a touch rich on the next pass, I added 3% to the whole table... make sense? Gotta go soon, but I'll check back on you tomorrow!

ok im going to try that on my tune and get to where you are. even the multiply all way down table. quick question to make sure im doing this right. the attached pic is my map setup. i understand pasting lables in rows and columns but in data tab that wideband one you see at the top of the list is the only thing i have to choose from.

when i pick it it says ben wbo1 min.. and when i started data logging im just getting all 0.00 green in the map. did i do something wrong? thanks for help guys.

[joecar]

I thought your BEN pid was CALC.BEN_LC11...

also you want to click the button that has X with bar over it (i.e. Average).

[dm79]

thats where im confused. i dont have a calc.ben_lc1 in my pid list. if i need to go back and make one i can. sorry for the confusing guys.

[joecar]

CALC.BEN_LC11 should show up because it is built-in.

Post your calc_pids.txt file here.

[BLK02WS6]

You logged that pid - it is in the log you posted - that is how I got the map I posted...

[dm79]

ok, i thought he meant under PID selection for hte groups. but did i pick the right map settings to log it with?

[BLK02WS6]

You logged the right pids. Creating the map is independent of logging - as long as you logged the right pids... Here is how you create the map you need:


1. Start the EFILive Scan Tool Software (if it is not already started).
2. Press F11 or click the [Maps (F11)] tab page.
3. Select map [B] or the first available map (from A to J).
4. Press Ctrl+Enter to open the Map property editor window.
5. Select the [Data] tab page and check the “Selected” and “Names” check boxes.
6. Select "CALC.BEN_LC11" from the Parameter drop down list box.
7. Select the [Column] tab page and check the “Selected” and “Names” checkboxes.
8. Select "Engine RPM (RPM)" from the Parameter drop down list box.
9.Type the following label into the Col labels text field:
,Value

Note the leading comma – it must be included.
10.Select the [Row] tab page and check the “Selected” and “Names” check boxescheck box.
11.Select "Mass Air Flow Raw Frequency (Hz)" from the Parameter drop down listbox.
12. Start the EFILive Tuning Tool Software (If it is not already started)
13.Open calibration {B5001} “MAF Sensor Calibration”.
Select all cells by clicking in the extreme top-left, grey cell.Right click on any cell and select Copy with labels (Shift+Ctrl+C)

14.Press the

“Paste Labels” button. The row labels from {B5001} should nowappear in the Row labels text field.Note the leading comma – it must be included.
15.Click the Save as button and save the map as:
My Documents\EFILive\V7\Maps\Calc.MAFBEN.mapor something like that...

Make sense?

[dm79]

PERFECT! i actually had it right looking at my old map. its just i didnt have an x on names. so it didnt show the calc.ben part. just lc1 base efficiency numerator. But thank you for explaining how to manually set it up. that makes a lot of sense now.

[dm79]

ok guys second log. i got some good 3 and 4th pulls. dont worry i live out in teh country with some LONG open service roads with no one on them all day.

the updated tune is just me playing with the throttle crack and follower trying to tame this rolling idle. sometimes it work fine. then sometimes it gets hung up at 1700rpm with the clutch in. Ill get it figured out im doing research now.

so check my tune and log. i have not applied filters yet but i will. Just wanted to post up raw data

[BLK02WS6]

It's coming along pretty good! Here are my changes (a couple injector pulswidth changes also to see if it brings idle AFR down as well)... on the next run, pull it to what you want your redline to be on each shift - glad to hear you have favorable road conditions :thumb_yello:

[dm79]

Cool, now I know your way more experience than me. What exactly are you looking at when doing pulse widths. Is there a range your tryin to get it in.

ANd ya its nice working at my dads shop out in country. Lots long empty freeway service roads. Don't worry I say dad but I'm not a young buck (30). I live in town and friend has a dyno At his shop if I ever need it at discount hourly rate.

[dm79]

Only thing is tx weather is kicking in. I'm getting engine temps little over 200 when I make these pulls. Sometimes close to 210. But normally hot day it sits at 190. I have my probe in the thermo housing. I know these engines run hot. I need to get a vented hood

[BLK02WS6]

On the IBPW, I was looking to see if it was close to the minimums in the tune while it is idling - if it is at the minimums, it will not go any leaner no matter what you do to the VE or MAF tables until you lower the minimums...

Your fine on the temps - stock is in the 220's...

[dm79]

Makes sense. NIce. After I get this thing tuned and better wheels and tires I have a feeling 4 months down road I will need to upgrade to cos5. I just been looking at nitrous outlets work on ls1tech LOL

[BLK02WS6]

Stay away from that stuff - its like crack... :drool:

[BLK02WS6]

Any more results?

[dm79]

just an update guys. i have been really busy with work and not driving the car. Its hot and i havent put ac back on it yet so i been driving the daily. Although today i think i found a pretty bad problem. my car has developed a tick. im guessing a lifter. i started hunting with the stethoscope and found it to be in cylinder 1 or 2... Now the bad part. i noticed when trying to listen that cylinder one spark plug boot was moving a tiny bit while engine was on. Sure enough i put the steth rod right onto the spark plug boot and could hear a rhythmic contact. you can actually see the boot move a little bit every tick. Making me think the piston is tapping the spark plug.

now im worried and trying to figure out what to do. im looking up if maybe i the plugs i bought are to long for my piston to plug clearance. ill update you soon.


also i have a strange kinda clunky sound that seems to sometimes come from the bell housing by the flywheel. almost like something is kinda rattling around. guess it may be time to pull this engine back out.

[dm79]

maybe ill try a spark plug indexer.....

[joecar]

Pics of any damage are mandatory... (please)


Which spark plugs are you using...?

[dm79]

quick update, the spark plug in cylinder 1 was loose to the touch. i did torque all spark plugs to spec but guess this one started to back out. took pictures. everything looks fine. Guess i just have a nasty lifter tick. now i gotta find out what that clunky sounding noise is coming form the bell housing. Im trying to pinpoint it. Hope its not piston slap

[joecar]

Torque converter or clutch pressure plate bolts...?

[dm79]

maybe pressure plate bolt. i have a m6. going to remove my flywheel plate cover and see if i can see anything. in order to pull the tranny means pulling the engine . everythings so cramped in the 240

[dm79]

well sorry i have been gone for a while guys. my daily driver integra crapped out on me and i had to change the head, do valve lash job and redo the ac. now that i have it driving again its time to get back onto the ls1. what more do you suggest i do blk? you want pulls to redline all way through 5th? i need to pull part my guage cluster out. the wideband seems to be messing up. think its the wiring.

other then that she runs like a beast. i almost feel like it felt better in sd mode. but thats ok. now im working on getting my 5lug swap so i can put some 12" wide tires in back and really hook up.

the heat that comes off this thing is killer. i stripped my full interior and laid down that radiant barrier all over the floor, tunnel and up just passed the pedals on the firewall. On hot days i can still fill the heat radiating through the tranny tunnel. My headers are ceramic coated but im really debating on wrapping them too. I dont want them to degrade though. Im also thinkin about wrapping the exhuast from the headers back to keep heat out of the cabin.

with windows down i can literally feel the heat from exhuast rolling up the sides of the car doors outside. lol

[dm79]

BLK do you know what the top end 5th gear mph is supposed to be with a t56. im wondering what it is with my j30 rear end its 3.96 gear ratio. im not sure individual. i need to figure out the math. Reason i asked is i was in 5th last night and car hit limiter and i didnt feel like i was going that fast. i need to jump back in my tune and see what the cut off speed is also in tune

(deserted access road)

[dm79]

just found this.. awesome

http://precisionsite.com/auto-x/tools/

[BLK02WS6]

Sorry, haven't been on here since yesterday...

You need to at least do 4th gear pulls for loading - 5th would be good if you do that kind of thing often... We need to tune it the way that you will be driving it...

[dm79]

hey no problem theres no rush to answer questions.

also a quick question. i had it pulling hard in 5th and the car surprisingly cut off before hitting redline. Im guessing it was speed cutoff and not a rpm limit. but when i look at my most recent tune the engine abuse the speed setting is set to 0. so not sure why fuel would cut off and pop right back on. Like its governed.

[BLK02WS6]

Were you logging it when it cut off? Need to see the log and tune that produced it in order to find what did it...


Edit - looked at your last tune I have and your speed limiter (H0109) is at 160 MPH - were you going that fast? also, it if isn't accurate, maybe it says you were, but weren't...

[dm79]

no i was not going that fast. i do remember a while back when i first got efilive messing with the speedo outputs. trying to get it to work with my factory nissan. but it wouldnt. thats prob what happened. ill update as soon as i get the lc1 straightened out

[dm79]

well no update guys. its hit 108 degrees here, im in the process of hooking up my ac system. So i have stopped driving the car. also my innovate lc-1 just took a crap on me out of no where. i rechecked wiring everything is good. soldered. ran my grounds directly to battery.. and it still does not work.

changed led and nothing. led does not even light up, if i try to run a recalibrate like when you first install still nothing. just the guage is stuck blingkin 7.4. led does not even light up...

i have been reading many problems with this unit. so im thinkin i should go either ngk afx... or plk unit. the ngk gets great reviews.. but comes in funny little box. not quite sure where im going to mount that. and it has a afr ratio of 9-16.. kinda strange too. but i know people swear by it

the plk unit also come in a box but with mounting hardware to mount it somewhere. Looks a little to hardcare race car ish for me but well see. im more worried about the data logggin end. although i do like to have a visual reff if something is getting way to lean

[joecar]

Some people have good luck with the LC-1, other people have bad luck... contact Innovate and explain what it is doing, and either let them send you a new one or get a refund.

[dm79]

Just update. I have not replaced the wideband yet. HAve not had time. But I have come across new problem. I have my Ac working. It works great. Setup through computer. My only problem is when Ac is on and say I'm coming up to a stop, when I put car into neutral the rpm dip way down and sometimes it kills the car.

I have adjusted the rpm while Ac on column and messed with the stall saver..it still does it. It seems to be the transition from in gear to neutral while bc on. Maybe I need to adjust airflow chart?? My most recent tune is the one couple posts up. Any ideas

[BLK02WS6]

If it is only when the A/C is on, work table B4356 for that.

[dm79]

If it is only when the A/C is on, work table B4356 for that.

Ok I don't know what happened. Increasing or decreasing that table in small increments made things worse. NOw car dies when turn on Ac parked. I reverted back to my original tune (few posts back) and its still running badly when I turn on Ac. I don't get why. It should be back to how it was before...

[dm79]

Ok I don't know what happened. Increasing or decreasing that table in small increments made things worse. NOw car dies when turn on Ac parked. I reverted back to my original tune (few posts back) and its still running badly when I turn on Ac. I don't get why. It should be back to how it was before...

Problem found...intake arm popped undone. Causing irratic idle

[dm79]

Blk do you think you could use your last tune you posted up for me and work a lean tune for free way driving aby eye. Might drive car to Calif and wanna load a better mpg tune if it's possible.

[dm79]

well bad news guys. was getting ready to sell the car... and one day oil pressure looked little low.. and what sounded like a lifter tick turned into a full on metal on metal knock. shavings in the oil.


so i yanked th engine. ditched the short block and grabbed another short block i had on hand with internals already in it. i was told this block was good and stock. i put my heads on. left everything else stock. im still using the 80mm tb. long tube headers. no cats. no rear 02. and the maf with the integrated iat. put everything back in. flashed a ls1 m6 base tune. and it wont start. Not sure whats wrong. i have good fuel pressure at the rails. it will turn over fire then sputter out all with in a second.

Does anyone have a ls1/m6 swap base tune with everything off that i need turned off? Not sure where to go from here. i was already ready to sell it and move and now this it putting a kink in my plans. and i really didnt wanna mess with the car anymore

[dm79]

when i crank it it sounds like its sucking air too.

[dm79]

here is my scan too log of trying to start it

[joecar]

IAT sensor is open circuited (will cause PCM to over-richen starting AFR, leading to non-start).

[dm79]

ok you could tell that from my log? what do i need to do to troube shoot this? thanks for the help

[joecar]

Yes, IAT is -38°F, this is what the PCM defaults IAT to when the circuit is open.

wiggle the IAT wiring while observing IAT on the scantool, if you see a change locate/repair the wire breakage;

remove the IAT connector and inspect pins in the connector, do they look damaged or is foreign object present...?

jumper/short the pins in the connector, the scantool should show IAT go to max.

[dm79]

ok so if i pull the maf/iat unit and i test ohms across the iat terminals i just get ol.

according to gm tuners if i test ohms across its two terminals it should read

°F °C OHMS
210 100 185
160 70 450
100 38 1,800
70 20 3,400
40 4 7,500
20 -7 13,500
0 -18 25,000
-40 -40 100,700

[joecar]

Ok, that means the IAT sensor is fubar.

[dm79]

wel i wanna make sure im doing this right. im using a greenlee electricians tester. set to ohms. ok i tested the wire connector.

on the tan wire im getting 5v..

on the black wire when i try to ohm it to ground in the engine bay i get nothing. IF i test with ohms the tan wire i can hear it moving the throttle cracker inside my bbk tb up at the top. so thoughts? would the bad iat really mess up whole car from starting?

[dm79]

ok last thing i see i need to check is hook up scan tool, run it in real time mode. turn car on and short the two wires in the connector that goes up to the iat. if my reading changes from -38 to 155 it means my sensor is deff bad. correct?

[dm79]

hmm... so i jumped the two wires in the iat connector. during real time data logging my iat is still at -38. it has not budged.. does this mean my circuit is still messed up too? im getting good 5v on tan.

ok confirmed. i probed the harness wire. dc red goes to the tan. black to the black. i get 0 volts. if i take the black probe to ground in engine bay i get 5 volts. meaning my ecu is not sending a ground to that pin. whats the next step?

[dm79]

fixed grounding issue. guess i still need to change iat b/c car will sputter for couple seconds then die. i can rev it once or twice then it really cuts off when you give it gas

[dm79]

here is my new data log no start and here is tune im using.

double valve springs should not bother this car with a stock cam right? im thinking maybe its 80mm tb and maf. and also change iat.

[slows10]

It costs about 20 bucks to answer your question about the iat sensor. Why not just replace it if you are unsure how it works. Then log the data from the new sensor to see the difference.

[darcy]

There are a heap of Out Of Range items in that tune, including the IAT VE Multiplier and Commanded Fuel Multiplier.
Probably why it won't start.

Fix all of the OOR items and give it another shot.
You have sensible IAT numbers in your lognow, did you replace the sensor?

[joecar]

A0008 will cause it to flood (not only is it OOR, but anything not close to 1.00 is wrong).




Out of Range calibration summary: 07:33:48 pm, Wednesday Oct 10, 2012

EFILive Custom Calibrations
{A0000} Forced Octane Scaler, was out of range when loaded.
{A0001} Forced Octane Scaler Percentage, was out of range when loaded.
{A0002} Octane Scaler Limiter, was out of range when loaded.
{A0008} Open Loop ECT Commanded Fuel Multiplier, contained one or more out of range values when loaded.
{A0009} Boost VE Table, contained one or more out of range values when loaded.
{A0010} Boost Timing Table, contained one or more out of range values when loaded.
{A0011} PCM Input #1 Function, was out of range when loaded.
{A0014} IAT VE Multiplier, contained one or more out of range values when loaded.

Fix A0012, A0013 also.

See here (there's a trick to fixing OOR cells):


When you upgrade from 12212156 to COS3 or COS5 are you doing this:
- full flash of COS3/5,
- cal only flash from 12212156,
- read back from PCM and save to file,
- edit file and fix any out-of-range cells (including A0012, A0013),
- look thru all tables for sane values and fix the insane ones,
- cal only flash.

Those are important, make sure that all the Axxxx tables and B3647 contain sane values.

OOR: make sure you get rid of the blue dogear corners.



COS5:
showthread.php?t=2599 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=2599)
showthread.php?t=2270 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=2270)

Fixing Out Of Range (OOR) Cells:
showpost.php?p=87052 (http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.php?p=87052&postcount=14) post #14
showthread.php?14119-3000-RPM-max-and-setting-codes-03-Z06-with-Magnuson-at-150kPa (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?14119-3000-RPM-max-and-setting-codes-03-Z06-with-Magnuson-at-150kPa) posts #14, #17
showthread.php?14654-I-need-help-getting-the-most-out-of-my-car (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?14654-I-need-help-getting-the-most-out-of-my-car) post#2

[joecar]

B3647 is wrong...

set the tunetool fueling units to EQR, restart the tunetool, and redo B3647...

once you've done that, ten set B3618 PE to the same value as the 100kPa column of B3647.

[joecar]

C6001: set P0101,2,3 to 1-Trip or Non-Emissions (you want the MAF to fail immediately).

[joecar]

The COS's retain adaptive spark when the MAF is disabled (sliding between HO and LO tables based on detected knock)...

so you don't really need to copy the HO table to the LO table (since this takes away any knock protection from the engine).

Also: 27° at high airmass might be too much advance, it's not safe unless dynamic compression drops a lot.

[joecar]

Might set B1901 to some higher value.

[dm79]

ok guys lemme try to do all that. and yes im picking up a new sensor today. I dont know how everything got out of order. i just loaded up a base tune from holden crazy since this is now a stock engine i put in. stock cam. etc.

thanks for all help so far.

[dm79]

There are a heap of Out Of Range items in that tune, including the IAT VE Multiplier and Commanded Fuel Multiplier.
Probably why it won't start.

Fix all of the OOR items and give it another shot.
You have sensible IAT numbers in your lognow, did you replace the sensor?


no i didnt replace sensor. but ecu was not giving ground to the iat circuit. i fixed that. but when i tested sensor its not giving me an ohm reading

[dm79]

im going to try and follow those instructions above. if you guys dont mind helping me out a bit more i would appreciate it. im not trying to get spoon fed. but my daily integra was hit by a guy last week and im still waiting on insurance. so this was my only car until it spun bearing. now im just trying to get it up and running so i dont have to borrow friends car.

what are "sane numbers" im still very new to this. like i said i dont wanna get it performance. i dont even have a wideband. i just want it running stock.

I dont have the old tune before the cos3 flash. my other laptop died couple months back. i only have most recent tune black posted up couple pages back.

[dm79]

ok i think i have a000 fixed. i see how blk did it on mine. now working on others.

only thing im not sure on is the b3647 you said to copy the 100kpa column. and paste it into the other and rework table. still not sure how exactly. i dont have a 100 column. sorry guys im still new to this .

new tune file

[joecar]

Here is some info, some of it is COS5 specific, but the rest applies to all COS's: COS5.txt (http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=10875&d=1305643237)

[joecar]

The COS's retain adaptive spark when the MAF is disabled (sliding between HO and LO tables based on detected knock)...

so you don't really need to copy the HO table to the LO table (since this takes away any knock protection from the engine).

Also: 27° at high airmass might be too much advance, it's not safe unless dynamic compression drops a lot.

You also have A0000 enabled (this keeps the octane scaler to the A0001 value always regardless of knock)... you want to set A0000 to Disable.

[dm79]

i have it disabled. now it tells me only out of rage items are still a0001 and 2

[dm79]

and she started up and is running... although my oil pressure is not building up yet.

[joecar]

Fix all OOR items, including A0012 and A0013 (set those to say 500).

[ so you have figured out the OOR "trick"...? ]

Good job on getting it to start/run :cheers: let us know what is going on with oil pressure.

[dm79]

im confused on th 10012 and 13. the valet ones. i have them set to 512. not sure what they should be at... i changed my a0001/2 to 50 and it didnt report it as out of range now

[joecar]

Set A0012, A0013 to 511.

Set A0001, A0002 to 99, save file, exit tunetool, re-start tunetool, set A0001, A0002 to 100, save file;


( the trick is shown here as explained in one of the links )

[joecar]

Look carefully at the sequence:


In the tables listed as OOR, see the cells marked with blue dog-ear corners, take note of the values, enter some value that is in range (like min+1 or max-1), do this on all tables, then save file, exit tunetool...

then open tunetool, go to those same tables and insert the old values back in those cells, save file, exit tunetool, reopen and verify no out-of-range messages.

Explanation: when the tunetool sees an OOR value, it displays the closest of min or max... when you then enter min or max, the tunetool thinks you did not edit the cells (since it compares what you entered to what it was displaying)... so you have to enter something different and save/exit, reopen and enter your proper min or max... little bit tricky.



the tunetool displays the closer of min or max value when a cell is OOR;
the tunetool saves a file only if there are changes, and it bases this on the displayed values;
so if the cell is OOR and you enter min or max, then the tunetool sees no change, so it does not save the change;
so you have to follow that specific sequence to correct OOR cells
( i.e. set value other than min or max, save, exit, restart, set value to min or max, save ).

[dm79]

here it is running. only thing is it sounds like its sucking in a lot of air. but its getting quitr now as it runs. anothr weird thing is neithr my external engine temp or oil pressur gauges are working.. same sender...

[dm79]

Set A0012, A0013 to 511.

Set A0001, A0002 to 99, save file, exit tunetool, re-start tunetool, set A0001, A0002 to 100, save file;


( the trick is shown here as explained in one of the links )
ah ok i see

[dm79]

i have no out of range detected. so far. Just wondering why my autometer senders are not working now. hate to drive around not knowing my oil pressure

[dm79]

ok guys car starts but when put in gear it stumbles and back fires. is there any way anyone can take a look at my tune and eyeball the maps for me to fix stuff. i dont have a wideband and really need this car to be working by this weekend till insurance pays me for my other car that was hit.

Thanks for help so far

[dm79]

blkws6 helped me out guys and got my car running good now! thanks so much for the help. now time for work!

[joecar]

ls1tech: update-swap-running (http://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagnostics-tuning/1592132-update-swap-running.html)

Glad you got it going :cheers: