Recommended wide bands

[DaddySS]

I see info on the Lm-1 and others, did a search but don't really find much info.

What are the preferred wide bands to use with EFI Live, is there any experience with the unit from Dynopro and others?

What are some of the pros and cons?

Thanks

[Black02SS]

The only widebands that I would recommend are PLX, LM1, LC1, Wideband Commander, FJO. You can get pretty much any to work with live that has a linear output. Non-linear outputs are a PITA to get configured right.

[Bruce Melton]

Seems there are either more trouble with some or just more of them. I have a PLX that I followed forum instuctions with and it works> always.

[ntae]

I have the PLX 250 its has been working with out any problems for the last 2 years

Geoff

[Tordne]

I have the PLX 250 its has been working with out any problems for the last 2 years

Geoff

Snap! I have the PLX M250 also and it just works. I think if I was going to buy again I get an FJO Racing dual channel controller, they just seem the be the best I have seen. Or failing that an LC-1 like everyone else, they are very cost effective for an programmable controller.

[GMPX]

Ditto, PLX is a winner in my book, I got the M-300

Cheers,
Ross

[DaddySS]

Thanks for the input guys, I'll let you know how it goes.

[Jphdg]

Has anyone had any experience with the 2EO unit from Tech Egle?
See below:

http://wbo2.com/2e0/default.htm

This is the hand held unit with a Lamda / AFR LED readout, plus a 0-5V output which appears it will would work with EFILive? It has a few other useful function supplied which can be used as a stand alone unit or as stated connected to other devices. (WB input of the FlashScan FSP V1.2)

Since this unit is for my own private use, whould this be a fairly ecconomical way to obtain a WB setup?

The unit has the option of a Bosch 6066, 7057 & NTK WB02.

I am gathering the LSU Bosch 6066 WB02 is the go for the sensor option and is fully supported by the 2EO.

Any comments appreciated.

:cheers:

[joecar]

The Tech Edge should work just fine, I heard other people using this, it's a real nice piece, well made.

The cheapest way to go is the LC-1 (but it does not have a display).

But are you in Oz...? You also have to consider shipping costs.

[Jphdg]

Yep..I am in Aust and would not mind having a digital readout as well... The reason I was looking at the 2E0 unit even though an IC-1 would probably end up cheaper including to import it, but would cost a fair bit more than the 2E0 if I was to get a digital display for the IC-1.

I also liked the features it offeres along with it's construction.

Good to hear a few think it is a good unit. :)

thanks for that advice.

[limited cv8r]

I purchased a 2C0 from tech edge some time ago and have had no problems with it apart from a failed heater circuit in my oxygen sensor. I purchased the 2C0 due to its small size and the ability to add on a display unit at a later date if desired. The outputs are also programmable as well.

[GMPX]

That 2E0 sits in a similar price range to the PLX M300 which also has a digital readout (though 4 digit).
For me it would be a tough choice, I remember talking with Peter (Tech Edge) years ago on the DIY-EFI site and he has done very well to get he's WB kits off the ground, but I really, really like the PLX units.
One observation on the 2E0, is the I.C's are in sockets.....:badidea:

Cheers,
Ross

[Jphdg]

That 2E0 sits in a similar price range to the PLX M300 which also has a digital readout (though 4 digit).
For me it would be a tough choice, I remember talking with Peter (Tech Edge) years ago on the DIY-EFI site and he has done very well to get he's WB kits off the ground, but I really, really like the PLX units.
One observation on the 2E0, is the I.C's are in sockets.....:badidea:

Cheers,
Ross

Fortunately as my car has had some tuning done already and I don't plan to really alter the AFR's now since they are ok, I have some time to research into it more. The 2E0 did grab my attention and I have not looked at the PLX properly yet so would be worth me doing that.

Why would the IC's in sockets be bad? Has this been known for noise pickup in the 2E0?

I suppose these sockets could easily be omitted and the IC's soldered directly to the PCB but then again, who would go to the trouble unless they are going to solder up one of these from kit form.

[mtnman]

I would NOT recommend the LC-1. I've had problems with it from day one. Once I got it working correctly, all of a sudden the voltage dropped again from a programmed 2.5 volts to 0.9 volts, worse than my last voltage drop problem which was 2.5 volts to 1.32 volts.

[GMPX]

Why would the IC's in sockets be bad? Has this been known for noise pickup in the 2E0?

I suppose these sockets could easily be omitted and the IC's soldered directly to the PCB but then again, who would go to the trouble unless they are going to solder up one of these from kit form.

Not noise issues, but I.C sockets unless they are super quality can cause problems with bad contacts over time, especially in an automotive enviroment. That screen shot may very well be a DIY kit.

Cheers,
Ross

[Bruce Melton]

Everyone wants to justify their own choice but:
The PLX is self calibrating, hooks up in a jiffy, the PIDs exist, and it just works.

[joecar]

I noticed with the LC-1 when you zoom in on a scan tool trace of the LC-1 wideband analog voltage you see lots of little steps up and down; do other widebands do this also...?

[ringram]

lc1 needs frequent recal according to manual. I do mine every week or so. Easy if you wire in the included push button and led. Otherwise happy with mine, its permanently in. Ive not noticed any issues from not recalibrating it as I usually end up with a recal every few weeks anyway. Maybe someone with one who never recal's it can let us know if it runs nice anyway?

I like Tordne's idea of running two controllers, one for each bank.

[mtnman]

I've got the pushbutton and LED properly wired in to mine. That still does not fix my problem. I've done the free air at least 2 times and the sensor calibration at least 2 times this week and I'm still getting invalid results. I'm wondering if the sensor has crapped out from the heat. I've read with the PLX sensors to place them 2 feet from the engine block. I'm not sure if mine is 24 inches away from the block. The no need to calibrate with the PLX is a very nice feature tho.

[TAQuickness]

I'm running an lc-1 on each bank. The left bank frequently delivers questionable results, but I have not ruled out the possibility of a header leak and/or electrical problems. Until then, I'm happy with the LC1