Help Guide Me Through Tuning a Cammed LS6

[n8dogg]

Hey all :wave:

This is be my first tune job on a cammed Z06/LSX engine. I have learned the Calc.VET procedure and plan to use the same thing for this car. But I am not familiar with what timing numbers I should be starting with.

The car is currently disassembled and will be together with in the next week or so.

Here are some specs:

2001 Z06/LS6. >30k miles. Stock bottom.
LG Motorsports G5X3 cam with 114LSA .6 Intake and .61 Exhaust.
Stock heads/valves, new springs, push rods and lifters.
Long Tube Headers with high flow cats.

I assume I will need a wideband for this, I don't want to use mine. So please point me to a good, affordable wide band that I can easily use for future use on other cars.

I would prefer to have a good idea of what I need to do for a proper tune before I dig into it. So any and all help is appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[n8dogg]

Anybody? Just looking for some pointers as a base line... What should the timing be? Do I need to make any adjustments to keep it idling?

[gmperformancecentre]

have a look at this.
tune has same cam but has AFR 205 Heads and FAST 90 Manifold with LS2 Throttle body.

[n8dogg]

thank you, I will take a look at it for a resource.

[minytrker]

Anybody? Just looking for some pointers as a base line... What should the timing be? Do I need to make any adjustments to keep it idling?

You will need to adjust alot of tables for it to run right. I would start searching and reading now. Tuning a big cam isn't something someone can give you a checklist to follow and your done.

[n8dogg]

You will need to adjust alot of tables for it to run right. I would start searching and reading now. Tuning a big cam isn't something someone can give you a checklist to follow and your done.

I have been searching the past few days for threads of similar nature, but I am having a hard time finding. I realize that this is no simple task, but I figured there must be some standard adjustments to make prior to starting the car that will help it stay running. The cam is not a "big" cam, it's a 114LSA. I am lead to believe it will run with out tuning, just not well with a rough idle. I plan to follow the idle tuning tutorial and the calc.vet procedure as well.

[minytrker]

The LG Motorsports G5X3 cam is a big cam, unless there is more than one version of it that Im not familiar with. I have tuned many cars with LG G5X3 cams and they all made great power and had very choppy idles. They took a good bit of tuning to get like stock drivabilty out of them. I don't know if it will run on the stock tune, it may barley but I bet it will drive like crap.

[BLK02WS6]

You need to read the AutoVE tutorial as well. For a wideband, I like the Innovate LM-2... and get a serial cable to connect it to the EFILive...

Like said above, there are far too many things that need changed for us to give you a laundry list... That is a pretty big cam by the way.

I would start off with a base tune with a bunch of changes done just based on experience (idle air, timing, VE). Then, the first step is put it in OLSD and tune the VE table. Once that is dialed in, keep it in open loop, put the MAF back on line and tune the MAF table. I would do all of that on the street hitting as much as I can in the upper ranges. Then put it back in closed loop and fine tune the idle and see how the LTFTs look... Then head to the dyno for full WOT tuning (this is when I would optimize timing and fueling based on dyno readings). That's it in a nutshell...

If you post up your current tune, I'm sure some on here would help with some recommended changes for a baseline... Once you are ready to start the process, you can post the tune and the log it produces for each step and we can help you through it...

[n8dogg]

You need to read the AutoVE tutorial as well. For a wideband, I like the Innovate LM-2... and get a serial cable to connect it to the EFILive...

Like said above, there are far too many things that need changed for us to give you a laundry list... That is a pretty big cam by the way.

I would start off with a base tune with a bunch of changes done just based on experience (idle air, timing, VE). Then, the first step is put it in OLSD and tune the VE table. Once that is dialed in, keep it in open loop, put the MAF back on line and tune the MAF table. I would do all of that on the street hitting as much as I can in the upper ranges. Then put it back in closed loop and fine tune the idle and see how the LTFTs look... Then head to the dyno for full WOT tuning (this is when I would optimize timing and fueling based on dyno readings). That's it in a nutshell...

If you post up your current tune, I'm sure some on here would help with some recommended changes for a baseline... Once you are ready to start the process, you can post the tune and the log it produces for each step and we can help you through it...

Thank you. I will post the factory tune once I get the car back together and the battery power hooked up. Is Calc.VET OK rather than AutoVE?

[BLK02WS6]

Thank you. I will post the factory tune once I get the car back together and the battery power hooked up. Is Calc.VET OK rather than AutoVE?

Yes, it is. I think I am a bit behind the times on Calc.VET and Calc.MAFT... I was doing some reading on them this morning - I have been out of the loop a bit in the last couple years and there are some real geniuses working on the calculated stuff - my hat is off to them! Post #29 of this post is really helpful in understanding the relationships: http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?14188-Summary-Notes/page3

I have always done things by "correction" to the VE and MAF tables.

That is the thing I love about tuning - you never stop learning! I'm trying to get caught up a little - family took me away from tuning the last couple years...

[joecar]

BLK02WS6, lol, thanks for the kind words... :)

[joecar]

...
Is Calc.VET OK rather than AutoVE?Yes, it is...

Calc.VET uses LTFT's in CL and WB everywhere else.


AutoVE is just a special case of Calc.MAFT with CL/trims disabled (MAF is disabled, VE enabled; corrects the VE).

AutoMAF is just a special case of Calc.VET with CL/trims disabled (VE is disabled, MAF is enabled; corrects the MAF).

[BLK02WS6]

BLK02WS6, lol, thanks for the kind words... :)

No problem Joe - you deserve it! You have been a huge help to me and many others over the years! I have missed tuning the last couple of years - I'm trying to brush up a little even if it is just by helping others and reading. I wish I had the time to do more...

I am an engineer by trade - contracting to the Navy for the last 17 years. I tuned as a second job for 6 years, but then I got married, the shop I worked for closed, my wife and I had a baby, and I had to sell my car - not much room for tuning anymore...

[n8dogg]

No problem Joe - you deserve it! You have been a huge help to me and many others over the years! I have missed tuning the last couple of years - I'm trying to brush up a little even if it is just by helping others and reading. I wish I had the time to do more...

I am an engineer by trade - contracting to the Navy for the last 17 years. I tuned as a second job for 6 years, but then I got married, the shop I worked for closed, my wife and I had a baby, and I had to sell my car - not much room for tuning anymore...

Joe has helped me out quite a bit. WeathermanShawn is greatly missed, there was not one person here that he did not offer a wealth of knowledge to. Just searching through his posts and threads you will learn a tremendous amount. I'm only a year into tuning, I can tune for bolt ons pretty well. But heads and cam is a new world for me. I don't know anything about the idle tables but I guess it is time to learn.

I'll post up the stock tune when I get a chance.

[joecar]

Yes, we do miss Shawn.

[minytrker]

I'll post up the stock tune when I get a chance.

Posting the stock tune isnt going to help you much. I doubt anyone is going to just right you a tune. Follow the advice already given in the thread, then post your current tune with a current log file and then you will get all the help you need. Tuning is one of those things you just have to put the time in to get anything back. If you dont learn the stuff and just copy and paste numbers youll never get anywhere when you have something different pop up. It may take longer to learn the right way but it will be worth it in the end.

[joecar]

If you're concerned about being too lean, guestimate the VE increase % and apply that to your VE table before taking a log;

view your log, you should be able to see if the questimate was good (safely rich), then you can proceed with tuning.

[BLK02WS6]

I told him to post up the stock tune and I would help him out with a base tune so that he could at least get it running and get started. I'll give a little summary of what changes I make and why...

[n8dogg]

Posting the stock tune isnt going to help you much. I doubt anyone is going to just right you a tune. Follow the advice already given in the thread, then post your current tune with a current log file and then you will get all the help you need. Tuning is one of those things you just have to put the time in to get anything back. If you dont learn the stuff and just copy and paste numbers youll never get anywhere when you have something different pop up. It may take longer to learn the right way but it will be worth it in the end.

See the response from BLK02WS6 below.

I'm not trying to have someone else do the work for me. I wouldn't have gotten into tuning to begin with if this was the case. I have never tuned a car for head or cam replacement. If I had all the time in the world I would spend the time to learn it myself, but I don't and time is quite important in this case. SO in response to your comments, I am looking for help on a base-line tune that will allow me to get the engine running and stay running so I can perform a Calc.VET tune as well as fine tune the idle. Through this process I will also get a better understanding of what adjustments are most necessary for heads/cam tuning.


If you're concerned about being too lean, guestimate the VE increase % and apply that to your VE table before taking a log;

view your log, you should be able to see if the questimate was good (safely rich), then you can proceed with tuning.

If I have the right idea, the low end of the VE table will actually decrease slightly, there will be a spot in the middle that will remain the same, and the upper portion will increase slightly... Correct? I guess I can do a global % increase that will run over-rich down low, but it is better than running too lean. Then fine tune with the Calc.VET process.


I told him to post up the stock tune and I would help him out with a base tune so that he could at least get it running and get started. I'll give a little summary of what changes I make and why...

Yup, I plan to do so shortly. Right now the battery is disconnected and the upper half of the engine is apart. Once I start working on it again I will hook the battery up quickly and save the factory tune.


From some of the research I've gathered this may be a good starting point, please correct me if I am wrong and offer up any other pointers/suggestions:

1.) Raise engine idle to 950 in all idle tables... just to start with.
2.) Increase timing across the board 5%-10% in both high and low octane tables.
3.) Perform Calc.VET with WB02 for VE and MAF table tuning.
4.) Fine tune Idle point.
5.) Perform misc. tuning (PE AFR, smooth tables, disable CAT OTP, Fan Temps etc...)

[The Alchemist]

nice job on the VE table :) GM.
on a big cammed, in fact any cammed engine, you need the spark table "back stop" I've posted in a few threads describing this technique to help stabilise idle droop in a cammed car.
Basically at 600rpm in base spark & main octane table throw in about 30deg and at 400rpm throw in about 40deg. This ramps up idle spark when it droops much more quickly than relying on spark learning. Makes a HUGE difference to idle stability!!!
Also you will need to do the rafig process to setup idle airflow correctly. Cammed engines need more air at idle so when aiming for say 40 to 50 IAC steps you will probably need to open up the TB a wee bit. Remember if you do this you may need to do a TPS reset to keep it in idle mode B5916 below 1.19%. The rafig, TB reset stuff, IAC steps and idle airflow are all done sort of together to obtain a stable idle. Its a bit tricky at first but you'll work it out.

[n8dogg]

nice job on the VE table :) GM.
on a big cammed, in fact any cammed engine, you need the spark table "back stop" I've posted in a few threads describing this technique to help stabilise idle droop in a cammed car.
Basically at 600rpm in base spark & main octane table throw in about 30deg and at 400rpm throw in about 40deg. This ramps up idle spark when it droops much more quickly than relying on spark learning. Makes a HUGE difference to idle stability!!!
Also you will need to do the rafig process to setup idle airflow correctly. Cammed engines need more air at idle so when aiming for say 40 to 50 IAC steps you will probably need to open up the TB a wee bit. Remember if you do this you may need to do a TPS reset to keep it in idle mode B5916 below 1.19%. The rafig, TB reset stuff, IAC steps and idle airflow are all done sort of together to obtain a stable idle. Its a bit tricky at first but you'll work it out.

I will read into the Rafig process, there is no tutorial on this correct?

[n8dogg]

Sorry for the delay. I finally started working on the car again. Got the new cam in. Will be working on getting the heads on tomorrow.

Here is the stock tune 13118

[joecar]

No worries, take your time.

[n8dogg]

I think what I will do is try to make a base tune and post it here. I hope you guys don't mind taking a look at it and offer some assistance and pointers.

[joecar]

We'll take a look, no worries. :)

[BLK02WS6]

Sorry, I've been kinda busy lately - post up your base tune, and we will look it over. One question - are you running stock injectors, or changing them?

[n8dogg]

Sorry, I've been kinda busy lately - post up your base tune, and we will look it over. One question - are you running stock injectors, or changing them?

I attached the stock tune above ^^. Stock injectors. The heads had some pitting in the exhaust valve seats so they are currently being worked on. I will post a base line tune that I made as well to see how far off I am from you :).

[n8dogg]

Here is a quick attempt of mine for a base tune.13161

Main VE table I reduced the first 1/3 by 5%, left the middle alone and increased the last 1/3 by 5%.

Main spark tables I increased part load advance and smoothed the tables.

Idle spark tables I increased timing 4 deg.

Set Idle speed to 950.

Did misc. adjustments like air injection on time, cags disabled, COTP disable, PE AFR at 12.5, fan temps, etc...

[BLK02WS6]

Finally got around to putting something together for you... What you did was not bad and would have gone a long ways towards having the car start and run good enough to get tuning... A lot of what I did is based on experience - its a lot easier to come up with a baseline when you have hundreds of LS1 tunes on hand to use as a starting point. If you have any specific questions, let me know - some of the differences will be obvious to you and some may not... This is by no means a finished tune for your particular car and will still require a good bit of work to get it right...

[n8dogg]

Finally got around to putting something together for you... What you did was not bad and would have gone a long ways towards having the car start and run good enough to get tuning... A lot of what I did is based on experience - its a lot easier to come up with a baseline when you have hundreds of LS1 tunes on hand to use as a starting point. If you have any specific questions, let me know - some of the differences will be obvious to you and some may not... This is by no means a finished tune for your particular car and will still require a good bit of work to get it right...

Thanks so much, I am only 2 years into tuning and on only a few cars... this is my first head and cam tune and I am sure this will be a great step in my learning process. I will take some time to look it through and develop some questions. Thanks again!

[BLK02WS6]

No problem - I don't mind helping anyone who wants to learn!

[n8dogg]

OK... I am almost ready to load the tune into the car and fire it up. All I have left is bleeding the brakes, fill the power steering and tighten up the exhaust. I was going to put a bung into one of the collectors but didn't realize how hard stainless steel is :(. So I decided to leave the cats out and use one of the rear 02 bungs for my LC-1 wideband. Cats will be installed when I am done tuning. I am looking the tune over and comparing it to stock, and will post questions as they arise.

Main VE Table: B0101
Looks like a fairly global increase with the exception of real low RPM areas. Is this based on previous tunes? Definitely looks polished :).

VE While Cranking: B0102
Globally decreased... because air flow is now reduced at crank and low RPM right?

PE Modifier Based On RPM: B3618
I see the AFR is around 12.5-12.7, fuel is supposed to be E10 around here, should I drop that down .5 across the board? Also this car is going to be used mainly for road coursing, would it make sense to make it slightly more rich for engine protection?

Commanded Fuel While in Open Loop: b3605
You got me on this one. Do you mind explaining to me what you did here?

LTFT Boundries: B3809
Again, I am not familiar with this... if you don't mind explaining it would help a lot.

Air Pump Coolant Temp Disable: B0203
I see the temp is increased to disable the AIR pump. Do we want to disable it just to help nail down the cold start and idle and then turn it back on?

Desired Air Flow: B4307
Is this similar to adjusting the throttle blade open a little bit to help it idle?

Learned Airflow Correction: B4514
Is this to help the engine RPM drop when in neutral and coasting or shifting gears?

Burst Knock Retard: B6212
Why is this disabled? I think I have seen this in some logs, is this when you are cruising along and then whomp on the gas, it retards the timing a bit?

Predicted MAP: C3003
Decreased in some areas because with a larger cam vacuum is decreased?

Misfire Idle Per Cyl. Mode: C5621
Is this value increased dramatically to keep things kosher with a rough idle?

I am sorry for all of the questions. This is all new stuff for me, so you are a tremendous help. Other than fine tuning the VE and MAF tables/maps what are some other areas that I should be looking at? After I dial in the fueling and everything checks out OK are there any changes we have made to the tune that we should revert back?

Thanks so much!
Nate

[BLK02WS6]

OK... I am almost ready to load the tune into the car and fire it up. All I have left is bleeding the brakes, fill the power steering and tighten up the exhaust. I was going to put a bung into one of the collectors but didn't realize how hard stainless steel is :(. So I decided to leave the cats out and use one of the rear 02 bungs for my LC-1 wideband. Cats will be installed when I am done tuning. I am looking the tune over and comparing it to stock, and will post questions as they arise.

Main VE Table: B0101
Looks like a fairly global increase with the exception of real low RPM areas. Is this based on previous tunes? Definitely looks polished :).

Yes, based on a previously tuned Z06 Thanks :mrgreen:

VE While Cranking: B0102
Globally decreased... because air flow is now reduced at crank and low RPM right? Right

PE Modifier Based On RPM: B3618
I see the AFR is around 12.5-12.7, fuel is supposed to be E10 around here, should I drop that down .5 across the board? Also this car is going to be used mainly for road coursing, would it make sense to make it slightly more rich for engine protection?

Yes, you can drop it a point or two if you are road racing it. As far as E10 - if you tune it on the dyno for max power and torque with E10 in it, you are covered. The only problem comes in when you tune it with one fuel and switch to another without retuning it (i.e. if you tuned it on clear 93 (no ethanol) and then switched to E10, it would be lean...). Also, if you use lambda from your wideband and equivalent ratio in your tuning, it is independent of fuel...

Commanded Fuel While in Open Loop: b3605
You got me on this one. Do you mind explaining to me what you did here?

This table determines commanded fueling when cold - the stock settings are too rich for a cam - especially a big cam - so, I lean them out...

LTFT Boundries: B3809
Again, I am not familiar with this... if you don't mind explaining it would help a lot.

This one lays out the grid for the LTFT table - the way they have it divided up in the stock table can be improved on - basically you are evening up the quadrants for the RPM range that is used for closed loop... hope that makes sense - its kinda hard to explain this one...

Air Pump Coolant Temp Disable: B0203
I see the temp is increased to disable the AIR pump. Do we want to disable it just to help nail down the cold start and idle and then turn it back on? Yes, we want it off so it doesn't interfere with AFR readings... you can turn it back on after tuning if you want to - many remove the pump... up to you.

Desired Air Flow: B4307
Is this similar to adjusting the throttle blade open a little bit to help it idle? Yes - this is a rough estimate to help it idle - you need to read up on RAFIG here on the board - plenty of info on logging and correcting it...

Learned Airflow Correction: B4514
Is this to help the engine RPM drop when in neutral and coasting or shifting gears? No, that would be done in the throttle cracker and throttle follower tables. This one is adjusted to help stop surging idle caused by over correction of the idle trims... kinda dumbing the correction down to stop over shoots...

Burst Knock Retard: B6212
Why is this disabled? I think I have seen this in some logs, is this when you are cruising along and then whomp on the gas, it retards the timing a bit? Yes, this one is disabled to stop timing from being pulled on quick changes in airflow (throttle)...

Predicted MAP: C3003
Decreased in some areas because with a larger cam vacuum is decreased? yes

Misfire Idle Per Cyl. Mode: C5621
Is this value increased dramatically to keep things kosher with a rough idle? yes - some people disable them all together, but this way, you can still log misfires if you ever need to see counts on a cylinder - but you won't get the 0300 all of the time from the idle...

I am sorry for all of the questions. This is all new stuff for me, so you are a tremendous help. Other than fine tuning the VE and MAF tables/maps what are some other areas that I should be looking at? After I dial in the fueling and everything checks out OK are there any changes we have made to the tune that we should revert back?

No need to be sorry - that is the only way to learn! You will want to put it in open loop and tune the VE and MAF tables first - which method you use is up to you (I prefer AutoVE and AutoMAF). Then put it back in closed loop and you can work out any idle issues. Then log LTFTs and timing to optimize those for part throttle (closed loop) driving. Then, go to the dyno and optimize fueling an timing at WOT to get the most torque and power out of it...

Thanks so much! No problem - take your time and have fun! Hopefully my base tune is a good start for you...
Nate

[BLK02WS6]

Do you have a serial cable for the LC-1? That is important - analog sucks...

[n8dogg]

Do you have a serial cable for the LC-1? That is important - analog sucks...

Yup, I have the serial jumper from my LC-1 that I'm going to borrow for this application. I will load the tune in tomorrow and log some data and be back tomorrow night to share. Thanks again.

[n8dogg]

Part 1So I got her running. It started right up, no problem. Stalled once it got up to some temperature. It will idle... sometimes. It also stalls... most of the time. I figure the PCM needs to learn some fuel cells. Like an idiot I forgot my serial cable adapter at home. So I took the car on a road test and logged the ride home. Here are a couple of logs:

13207
13208
13209

I will be logging the ride back with my wideband and do the Calc.VET tune. Will be back with more...

Thanks

Part 2
I logged my ride back to work with the Calc.VET PIDs. The calculated VE map is drastically lower... I tried using those numbers in the VE Table and the car wouldn't start at all. So I reverted it back using the baseline VE table.

Here is the log on the way to work: 13211

[n8dogg]

Part 2 continued
I also did another road test and log using the Calc.VET PIDs. This time the car would not idle at all. It will hunt for idle and die. Then the car will NOT restart, I have to play with the throttle for it to restart. You will see in my log that TPS fluctuates at low RPM that is me trying to save the stall. I am guessing the car needs more spark advance at idle? Not sure what the no start is about, it almost acts like it is flooded.

13213

Once I got it back to the shop, it actually idled and stayed idling. I'm not confident with the idle. Here is a log of warm idle when it stayed idling:
13214

I will look through some of the tutorials, I must be missing something. I don't understand why my Calc.VET MAF and VE maps are displaying weird. The MAF ALWAYS displays 1.0 across the board, or 0.9. The VE table clearly reads low.

Any help is appreciated, here is the current tune:
13215

I wonder if the high IAT temp readings are messing with the spark advance at idle. I have the fans blowing around 175* for the 160* stat I installed. hmm.

[n8dogg]

Update:

I bumped B4307 up 5% and increased B5936 +3* and the car now idles more confident. Only initially will it dip down a few hundred RPMs to about 500, and then come up to 950 or so and then stay. When I turn the A/C on the car has a nasty (muscle car good!) idle lol.

My only problems now are the idle dip (like I said just initially, but then idles nice) and a hard start.

The hard start is confusing to me. It almost acts like the engine is flooded. I have to press the throttle to start. Could it be not enough air flow? What can I do to help this?

Here is the latest log, things are looking good ;)
13216

[BLK02WS6]

Sorry - just got on here - I'll try to catch up...

[BLK02WS6]

Well, looks like my base tune wasn't bad! Your WOT AFR is really close and the trims aren't bad... but it still needs work.

Couple problems with your logging:

1. You aren't logging BEN for the serial wideband - that's why you aren't getting a correction factor - not sure how you are going to go about things, I use AutoVe and AutoMAF (so I tune in open loop with LTFTs disabled)...

2. You also need Mass Airflow Raw Frequency (Hertz) logged when you are going to correct the MAF...

As far as the startup - there are 3 good tables to work with for that: B4343, B4344 and B4345... in B4343 you add more air (like you said above), in B4344 you lessen the decay (so the amount of air goes down by a smaller amount over time after starting) and in B4345 you add time to delay (so it takes longer after starting for the decay to happen). In the attached tune, I made changes to all three so you can see what I am talking about - I made pretty big changes, so if it is too much, revert to the previous values and do less - it is trial and error with idle tuning till you find where it is happy...

Also, one more thing - I went ahead and made the changes that you described above in post #38 so we would be "on the same page" - but ALWAYS post the latest tune on here with the corresponding logs - that way myself or anyone else helping is working with the same version with any changes you have made already in there...

[n8dogg]

Sorry - just got on here - I'll try to catch up...

Thanks, I will be standing by.

[BLK02WS6]

Thanks, I will be standing by.

See post #40

[BLK02WS6]

I went back through the earlier logs - you are missing some pids, that is why your VE and MAF maps are not right... are you using the pids from the tutorial?

Also, is your wideband reading out in Lambda or AFR?

[n8dogg]

I went back through the earlier logs - you are missing some pids, that is why your VE and MAF maps are not right... are you using the pids from the tutorial?

Also, is your wideband reading out in Lambda or AFR?

I am using all the PIDs in the Calc.VET tutorial. The WB displays AFR on the scantool but Lambda in the data log. I'm looking through right now to see what I can find.

Edit... something isn't adding up.

I did not have a WB installed during the first start, break in, and first road test... yet it shows data for one... Must be getting data from somewhere!

[BLK02WS6]

Put the attached file in your "My Documents\EFILive\V7.5\PIDs" folder... you can rename it if you want to...

When you go to log, use it... it uses lambda from the wideband - if you want to see AFR, use the pid in there called "AFR from LAMBDA" - it is for display purposes...

[BLK02WS6]

I gotta sign out for the night - 4:30am comes early! I'll check back on you tomorrow...

[n8dogg]

I think I found it... Here is a log from when I did Calc.Vet on my Z06 last year: 13220

When compared to the current logs on this car you can see that Dynamic Air Temp is N/A! This is part of the calc equations. I will look into this. Thanks for your help tonight.

[joecar]

I am using all the PIDs in the Calc.VET tutorial. The WB displays AFR on the scantool but Lambda in the data log. I'm looking through right now to see what I can find.

Edit... something isn't adding up.

I did not have a WB installed during the first start, break in, and first road test... yet it shows data for one... Must be getting data from somewhere!n8,

select the pids EQIVRATIO, DYNAIRTMP;

remove the pid AFR and some others to bring the pid channel count to 24 or less.

[n8dogg]

n8,

select the pids EQIVRATIO, DYNAIRTMP;

remove the pid AFR and some others to bring the pid channel count to 24 or less.

Joe, I do not have AFR selected as a PID.

Just for fun I connected to my Z06 and the DYNAIRTMP PID is valid. I wonder if the 2001 OS is not compatible with DYNAIRTMP.

Through searching the forum I came across some info indicating the Calc.VET PID txt file has been updated and utilizes DAT. I updated my txt file with this and now have the DAT PID available. Is it OK to use DAT if DYNAIRTMP is invalid?

[joecar]

DYNAIRTMP_DMA should be valid for the 2001 OS.

DAT is defined from DYNAIRTMP.

Remind me again: what year/model/vehicle (I thought it was the 2004 Z06 in your sig)...?

[n8dogg]

DYNAIRTMP_DMA should be valid for the 2001 OS.

DAT is defined from DYNAIRTMP.

Remind me again: what year/model/vehicle (I thought it was the 2004 Z06 in your sig)...?


I would think it is a valid PID as well, weird that it works fine on my 04 Z06. The car is a 2001 Z06, OS is 12593358.

[joecar]

Oh, I just checked the Appendix of post #1 of this thread: A-New-Twist-on-CALC-VE-Table-Computing-the-Entire-VE-Table (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?15236-A-New-Twist-on-CALC-VE-Table-Computing-the-Entire-VE-Table)

Your OS id 12593358 does not support DYNAIRTMP... you need the older DAT pid that is defined as a lookup table (not the new one that is defined as DYNAIRTMP_DMA).

Please post your calc_pids.txt file here (I remember now, you have the older DAT pid, this is what you need to select).

[n8dogg]

13221 So what do I use in replacement of Dyn Air Temp?

[joecar]

Do you have your old calc_pids.txt...?


If not, post your current tune file, I can put together a DAT pid that uses your B4901 ECT/IAT blend table (since your OS 12593358 does not support DYNAIRTMP_DMA).


I'll have to get some dinner now, I can continue tomorrow :)

[joecar]

n8,

Do you have FlashScan V1 or V2...?

I thought you were using serial wideband...? If so then that is the wrong calc_pids.txt file...


Can you search all your threads to find where I posted a calc_pids.txt file for your 2001 Z06...

[n8dogg]

Do you have your old calc_pids.txt...?


If not, post your current tune file, I can put together a DAT pid that uses your B4901 ECT/IAT blend table (since your OS 12593358 does not support DYNAIRTMP_DMA).


I'll have to get some dinner now, I can continue tomorrow :)
This should be the old file, the same as what is in the calc.vet tutorial: 13222

Here is the current tune: 13223

n8,

Do you have FlashScan V1 or V2...?

I thought you were using serial wideband...? If so then that is the wrong calc_pids.txt file...


Can you search all your threads to find where I posted a calc_pids.txt file for your 2004 Z06...

I do have a serial wideband, LC-1. The original calc_pids.txt file should work just fine right?

[joecar]

Yes, your OS 12593358 is not listed in the ones that support GM.DYNAIRTMP_DMA:



The pid GM.DYNAIRTMP_DMA is defined for these LS1 OS's:
12202088 92111922 12208322 12225074 12212156 12221588 12216125 12577216 12579405 12580055 12585318 12593058 12509967 12587604
12588804 12592433 12585950 12587603 12592425 12606960 12592618 12593555 12606961 12612115 12587811 12606807 12608669 12597120


Tomorrow I'll make you a new calc_pids.txt file containing a DAT pid based on your B4901.

[n8dogg]

Yes, your OS 12593358 is not listed in the ones that support GM.DYNAIRTMP_DMA:



Tomorrow I'll make you a new calc_pids.txt file containing a DAT pid based on your B4901.






10-4, thank you much! I will wait patiently (try to :))

[BLK02WS6]

Wow - sure glad Joe was here for that part! I wouldn't have known that... I'll check in tonight to see if you have any logs. How is the idle doing now?

[n8dogg]

Wow - sure glad Joe was here for that part! I wouldn't have known that... I'll check in tonight to see if you have any logs. How is the idle doing now?

I'm getting ready to load the tune into the car and check the idle. Cold start, open loop was very rough and low this morning.

[n8dogg]

I loaded the tune in, started it and let it warm up. Big improvement in idle, much smoother. Road tested it and idle seemed perfect, never dipped always stayed around 950 rpm. Still has a hard start when warmed up. I've searched through the tune to find some table for OL and CL starting and can't seem to find what I am looking for. Any ideas? Like I said, I need to put my foot down for it to start sometimes. Maybe there isn't enough air coming in...

[BLK02WS6]

Can't look at tunes here at work... I'll have to look into it tonight at home... some of the cranking and restart enrichment tables may need some work...

[n8dogg]

I think I got it. I changed the VE table while cranking closer to stock specs and slightly leaned the commanded fuel while cranking. It has been starting right up, no problem.

[n8dogg]

Current Tune File: 13224

[joecar]

Here is the calc_pids.txt file containing the CALC.DAT pid based on B4901 from the tune file posted in post #56 above...

use this calc_pids.txt file for any Z06 LS6 that does not support GM.DYNAIRTMP_DMA and that has the same B4901 values listed in this calc_pid.txt file.

[joecar]

Ok, the B4901 in the tune file in post #64 is the same as the one I put in post #65.

[wesam]

I learned a lot of things from this thread
thank you all

[n8dogg]

Can't look at tunes here at work... I'll have to look into it tonight at home... some of the cranking and restart enrichment tables may need some work...
Take a look at the new VE table VS baseline... pretty darn close, we knew that with the ultra low LTFTs. 1323813239


Here is the calc_pids.txt file containing the CALC.DAT pid based on B4901 from the tune file posted in post #56 above...

use this calc_pids.txt file for any Z06 LS6 that does not support GM.DYNAIRTMP_DMA and that has the same B4901 values listed in this calc_pid.txt file.

Joe this worked great. I can't thank you enough for your quick and informative help. With out you I would have never been able to figure that one out and would have had to learn how to auto VE tune from the tutorials. Thank you so much.


I learned a lot of things from this thread
thank you all

:thumb_yello: as have I! I owe a lot to Brett and Joe.

[minytrker]

I think I got it. I changed the VE table while cranking closer to stock specs and slightly leaned the commanded fuel while cranking. It has been starting right up, no problem.

I find that most setups will start pretty good with stock cranking ve. I always try stock first and then adjust if need be.