joecar
February 11th, 2006, 09:40 AM
If you don't have a catchcan or the LS6 valley PCV pickup yet, you can do this for about $4.00...
I know this isn't EFILive stuff, but it helps to reduce oil induced knock and keeps the plugs, O2S's, cats from getting oil fouled.
I drilled a 3/4" hole thru my oil cap, installed a rubber grommet, pushed PCV into grommet, reversed flow thru PCV plastic tubes, plugged air nub near front of RHS valve cover.
When accelerating, alot of oil is pumped up pushrods into valve cover and acceleration pushes oil to rear of valve cover; oil cap is highest position on engine, so no liquid oil will be sucked (...most of the time...).
This is for the interim until I get an LS6 valley pickup, which I like better.
The rubber grommet is GM 10198949 and fits nicely into the hole drilled in the oil cap.
Steps:
0. Remove PCV valve rubber connection from nub on intake manifold.
1. Undo nut on heat sink, and remove PCV valve and rubber holder from plastic PCV tube (hold plastic tube, carefully twist holder off).
2. Extract PCV valve from rubber holder.
3. Remove oil cap, carefully center and drill 3/4" hole (holesaw or woodborer); drill from underside of cap.
4. Clean hole and insert rubber grommet, you may need to enlarge the hole a bit, use a round file.
5. Install oil cap.
6. Insert PCV valve into rubber grommet in oil cap.
7. Run some 5/16" ID fuel hose from nub on intake manifold (fits tight, use pliers to stretch ID of hose a little and use oil) to PCV valve in oil cap (go past front of head, form a loop going up, and then come down onto PCV valve).
8. Remove hose end from nub on RH valve cover and insert on plastic PCV tube (use oil to make hose go on easier); leave other end of hose connected to TB.
9. Plug nub on RH valve cover with 5/16" rubber cap (from local part store).
Keep parts taken off (rubber connection, rubber holder) just in case if required to reset back to OEM for smog test inspection.
Cheers
Joe
:cheers:
I know this isn't EFILive stuff, but it helps to reduce oil induced knock and keeps the plugs, O2S's, cats from getting oil fouled.
I drilled a 3/4" hole thru my oil cap, installed a rubber grommet, pushed PCV into grommet, reversed flow thru PCV plastic tubes, plugged air nub near front of RHS valve cover.
When accelerating, alot of oil is pumped up pushrods into valve cover and acceleration pushes oil to rear of valve cover; oil cap is highest position on engine, so no liquid oil will be sucked (...most of the time...).
This is for the interim until I get an LS6 valley pickup, which I like better.
The rubber grommet is GM 10198949 and fits nicely into the hole drilled in the oil cap.
Steps:
0. Remove PCV valve rubber connection from nub on intake manifold.
1. Undo nut on heat sink, and remove PCV valve and rubber holder from plastic PCV tube (hold plastic tube, carefully twist holder off).
2. Extract PCV valve from rubber holder.
3. Remove oil cap, carefully center and drill 3/4" hole (holesaw or woodborer); drill from underside of cap.
4. Clean hole and insert rubber grommet, you may need to enlarge the hole a bit, use a round file.
5. Install oil cap.
6. Insert PCV valve into rubber grommet in oil cap.
7. Run some 5/16" ID fuel hose from nub on intake manifold (fits tight, use pliers to stretch ID of hose a little and use oil) to PCV valve in oil cap (go past front of head, form a loop going up, and then come down onto PCV valve).
8. Remove hose end from nub on RH valve cover and insert on plastic PCV tube (use oil to make hose go on easier); leave other end of hose connected to TB.
9. Plug nub on RH valve cover with 5/16" rubber cap (from local part store).
Keep parts taken off (rubber connection, rubber holder) just in case if required to reset back to OEM for smog test inspection.
Cheers
Joe
:cheers: