Mikz86ta
June 8th, 2012, 12:14 PM
Ok bare with me for a minute and I will try to explain what is going on.
Truck is a 2003 S10, 4.3L 5speed, fair amount of bolt-on mods (intake, ign, headers,exh) and one internal mod the 1.52 Comp ProMag roller rockers.
85k miles right now and very well maintained.
A month ago I was heading out to a frineds home and its out a highway. Doing 55/60 and the truck was running great. I have not done anything recently tune (none I recall) or mods. I stop for a drink and when I return and crank the truck, it sputters and chugs and wont completely fire up. Tries it seems but wont. Almost felt like 'run-on' when you try to turn a vehicle off. I had to turn key off. Refired and tho it smelled rich, it ran fine the rest of the way and later on. In fact it had happened once before but many months back. I associated a glitch somehow and since it had not occured with ANY relative frequency, I didnt put much thought into it.
Last week Thur, I replaced my plastic Vortec distributor which is known for failure with an aftermarket stock replacement aluminum one. I messed up a bit on the swap and just marked 2 places on removal and matched the reinstall with those marks. If ur familiar with them you know these are NON adjustable dizzys that have the dist clamp semi-permanent on the dist neck and only bolts down one way. No freeplay to even do a small adjustment either. So if you get the pointer in the right stert position, it should go in no problem. Well after trying to do it straight by the book with balancer mark (2) vs. TDC match the rotor to #1 (which dist has under cap arrow to aid as well) and the rotor ends up at arrow under cap 2. It didnt want to run and my CMPRET was way out. I ended up with it one tooth on the gear clockwise which the rotor ended up between 1 and 6 on the cap. Cranked and ran great. I have heard some guys with replacement cams had to enlarge the dist hold down hole and forcefully adjust the starting point. I have not modded my hole yet. After the one tooth past and run fine, my idle spark adv (which was around 0 when it was installed by the book) was now at around 20* which from past logs and commanded spark tables to be correct. My CMPRET was close to 0 as directed from what I read but still off. I didnt get a chance to ask if I should hog out the dist clamp hole and make it adjustable a bit.
I read 5.7 Vortecs have some adjustment but the 4.3 Vortec does not.
Mines the 4.3 and I can tell u there is no play at the clamp.
So since then this past week the truck has run fine every day.
Until yesterday. And today was super bad.
I am driving every time except once when I was at a stopsign and it did the following.
Driving in 3rd 4th 5th, easy cruising, light on the throttle to maintain speed, RPM usualy near 2grand and it feels like the truck shuts off and chugs and sputters. The one time I was at idle in gear/clutch pressed in and it did it. Sometimes I can get it going but today I had to shut it off and refire it. Fires up fine and runs fine after that. For a while. Smells very rich when its restarted form obvious loading of fuel. Its really not safe as I have to immediately take action to pull off the road and shur the ign off. Otherwise it sits there and tries to 'run-on'.
Very odd.
I cleaned my battery terminals and made sure they were tight. - No fix
Swapped the electronic part of my old descreened MAF (which was working fine but I wanted to install a stock screened MAF back in for tuning) to the aluminum screened ends to see if maybe my old screened MAF was going bad. But both MAFs do it. Cleaned the middle electroinc part with real MAF cleaner and let dry B4 I reinstalled it. - No fix
For the record today was oil change day but obviously B4 and Aft I have issues, so no worries there..lol
My FPress gauge has been acting weird these past few days but I associated it with my sender going south. Have not tried the mech test gauge yet but not like I can have it in there while driving.. My elect FPGauge needle does the reset jump like its loosing power. But if the FPump was going bad and the gauge was correctly reading, I woulf think at 100psi the injectors would lock up. And my ssue doesnt really happen when the gauge is wiggin out.
Coil is MSD and was put on at 40k-ish miles. I have 85k miles rt now.
Wires are newat 83k miles
Plugs are NGK TR5 gapped .050 and are 15k miles old.
cap and rotor are new with dizzy install a week old now.
I have a Mallory Hyfire6 which is been there since 50k miles
Bought the trk new for the record.
Fuel filter was at 82k miles replaced as was PCV
Any particular direction I should look?
Logfile on way home is attached.
Just before frame 400 was when it started acting up at idle at the stop sign.
I think around 1140 is where I had cruising failure and had to coast to a stop and shut her down again. RPMs dropped way down, speed started to coast down, tps off, and finally shut her down at 1170 ish.
Fired back up but was rich and made it home
Any direction, PIDs I should log to help you help me, things that are typical to check, etc. Will be greatly appreciated. I dont have much means without my truck to drive to work to make a living
Truck is a 2003 S10, 4.3L 5speed, fair amount of bolt-on mods (intake, ign, headers,exh) and one internal mod the 1.52 Comp ProMag roller rockers.
85k miles right now and very well maintained.
A month ago I was heading out to a frineds home and its out a highway. Doing 55/60 and the truck was running great. I have not done anything recently tune (none I recall) or mods. I stop for a drink and when I return and crank the truck, it sputters and chugs and wont completely fire up. Tries it seems but wont. Almost felt like 'run-on' when you try to turn a vehicle off. I had to turn key off. Refired and tho it smelled rich, it ran fine the rest of the way and later on. In fact it had happened once before but many months back. I associated a glitch somehow and since it had not occured with ANY relative frequency, I didnt put much thought into it.
Last week Thur, I replaced my plastic Vortec distributor which is known for failure with an aftermarket stock replacement aluminum one. I messed up a bit on the swap and just marked 2 places on removal and matched the reinstall with those marks. If ur familiar with them you know these are NON adjustable dizzys that have the dist clamp semi-permanent on the dist neck and only bolts down one way. No freeplay to even do a small adjustment either. So if you get the pointer in the right stert position, it should go in no problem. Well after trying to do it straight by the book with balancer mark (2) vs. TDC match the rotor to #1 (which dist has under cap arrow to aid as well) and the rotor ends up at arrow under cap 2. It didnt want to run and my CMPRET was way out. I ended up with it one tooth on the gear clockwise which the rotor ended up between 1 and 6 on the cap. Cranked and ran great. I have heard some guys with replacement cams had to enlarge the dist hold down hole and forcefully adjust the starting point. I have not modded my hole yet. After the one tooth past and run fine, my idle spark adv (which was around 0 when it was installed by the book) was now at around 20* which from past logs and commanded spark tables to be correct. My CMPRET was close to 0 as directed from what I read but still off. I didnt get a chance to ask if I should hog out the dist clamp hole and make it adjustable a bit.
I read 5.7 Vortecs have some adjustment but the 4.3 Vortec does not.
Mines the 4.3 and I can tell u there is no play at the clamp.
So since then this past week the truck has run fine every day.
Until yesterday. And today was super bad.
I am driving every time except once when I was at a stopsign and it did the following.
Driving in 3rd 4th 5th, easy cruising, light on the throttle to maintain speed, RPM usualy near 2grand and it feels like the truck shuts off and chugs and sputters. The one time I was at idle in gear/clutch pressed in and it did it. Sometimes I can get it going but today I had to shut it off and refire it. Fires up fine and runs fine after that. For a while. Smells very rich when its restarted form obvious loading of fuel. Its really not safe as I have to immediately take action to pull off the road and shur the ign off. Otherwise it sits there and tries to 'run-on'.
Very odd.
I cleaned my battery terminals and made sure they were tight. - No fix
Swapped the electronic part of my old descreened MAF (which was working fine but I wanted to install a stock screened MAF back in for tuning) to the aluminum screened ends to see if maybe my old screened MAF was going bad. But both MAFs do it. Cleaned the middle electroinc part with real MAF cleaner and let dry B4 I reinstalled it. - No fix
For the record today was oil change day but obviously B4 and Aft I have issues, so no worries there..lol
My FPress gauge has been acting weird these past few days but I associated it with my sender going south. Have not tried the mech test gauge yet but not like I can have it in there while driving.. My elect FPGauge needle does the reset jump like its loosing power. But if the FPump was going bad and the gauge was correctly reading, I woulf think at 100psi the injectors would lock up. And my ssue doesnt really happen when the gauge is wiggin out.
Coil is MSD and was put on at 40k-ish miles. I have 85k miles rt now.
Wires are newat 83k miles
Plugs are NGK TR5 gapped .050 and are 15k miles old.
cap and rotor are new with dizzy install a week old now.
I have a Mallory Hyfire6 which is been there since 50k miles
Bought the trk new for the record.
Fuel filter was at 82k miles replaced as was PCV
Any particular direction I should look?
Logfile on way home is attached.
Just before frame 400 was when it started acting up at idle at the stop sign.
I think around 1140 is where I had cruising failure and had to coast to a stop and shut her down again. RPMs dropped way down, speed started to coast down, tps off, and finally shut her down at 1170 ish.
Fired back up but was rich and made it home
Any direction, PIDs I should log to help you help me, things that are typical to check, etc. Will be greatly appreciated. I dont have much means without my truck to drive to work to make a living