Autronic WB w/EFI Live compatibility..

[Redline Motorsports]

I just shit canned the WB that came with our dyno and replaced it with a 5 wire UEGO style unit from Autronics.

The dyno uses this and is able to display and record the AFR on the dyno. This is the fastest WB setup we have had and works incredible. It heats up in less then 15 seconds are is extremely accurate.

Here is what I am trying to do; when using EFI/WB I loose the recorded readings and display on the dyno because I only use one bung in the exhaust system. I am trying to utlize this accurate new sensor for both a EFI input as well as remain the sensor for the dyno.

This new WB controller has two analog outputs. One is 0-1 volt and the other is 0-5. They both work simultaneously! I am not sure which one the dyno currently uses but the question has been asked. Coming out of the controller is a DB-9 connector that goes directly into the dyno, in which it is distributed from there.

Tonight I picked up a male and female DB-9 connector. I was going to make a lead that allows the system to continue through but have three pig tails. One a ground, one a 0-1 volt and one the 0-5 volt. If I can get the 0-5 volt to read, which I prefer for better resolution, there should not be any reason why I can't tie this back into the dongle for tuning....right?? What are the thoughts on the 5 volt vs. the 1 volt? Should I care??

I know that EFI has certain premade pids for a few different WB's on the market. Has anyone used the Autronics with EFI??

This will be slicker then shit if I can make it work! Any of you guys doing some SERIOUS tuning, this WB is awesome! Not cheap though..............

Thanks

Howard

[joecar]

Howard,

Can't the outputs be programmed (i.e. program the 0-1V output to give 0-5V instead, similar to an LC-1)...?

0-5V gives you better resolution than 0-1V.

If you know the AFR at 0V and at 5V, then a PID can be made for it.

Cheers
Joe

[Redline Motorsports]

I was just reading the instructions on Autronics web site. It all kinds of functions but nothing that seemed to indicate being able to adjust the output voltage. I guess I could always use the dyno read, which we know is correctly calibrated, and compare it to the FS values.

What would I need to make a pid to work?

Thanks Joe!

[joecar]

You have two points (AFR2,V2) and (AFR1,V1) on the straight line that represents the voltage to AFR conversion;

You calculate the slope: m = (AFR2 - AFR1)/(V2 - V1)

Then the equation is: afr = m.(v - V1) + AFR1

where v is either of the FlashScan analog inputs and afr is the afr value.

For example, say you have 20 AFR at 5V and 10 AFR at 0V,

m = (20-10)/(5-0) = 10/5 = 2
afr = 2.(v - 0) + 10 = 2.v + 10

This is actually the formula for the PLX WBO2.

If you look at the sae_generic.txt file you'll see how the BEN_ calculated pids are formed:



*CLC-00-920
V 0.0 5.0 .1 "{EXT.AD1}"
AFR 10.0 20.0 .1 "{EXT.AD1}*2+10"

*CLC-00-921
factor 0.0 2.0 .1 "{CALC.AFR_PLX1.AFR}/{GM.AFR}

Paul: the quotes seem to be missing on the end of the factors...
...

CALC.AFR_PLX1 F514 CLC-00-920 "AFR,V" O2-Wide "Wide Band AFR 1 - PLX"
CALC.BEN_PLX1 F515 CLC-00-921 factor O2-Wide "Base Efficiency Numerator 1 - PLX"


You can use an existing one or create your own in calc_pids.txt under the user configuration folder.

[Redline Motorsports]

OK. Thats a head full of data! If I can find out from Autronics what the respective AFR/voltages are, it should make quick work of figuring this out.

I hope that if the dyno is using the 5 volt output that I can still tap off that same output for the FS.

Are you saying I could use an existing calc. pid and just change the formula as needed instead of making one from scratch? I'm sure I won't use at least 2 or 3 of the current ones..

[joecar]

If you post the AFR vs voltage pair of values, someone can quickly post a calc_pids.txt for it.

[Redline Motorsports]

Enough said. Thanks Joe for your input. I'll play with it tomorrow and hopefully get the values this week.

HT

[Black02SS]

Howard, I can help you get the correct forumal for one of the outputs and then use the other for the dyno. If you get in a bind, just give me a call and I'll try and walk you through it.

[Redline Motorsports]

We'll I built a harness to tap off of the Autronic WB unit and it seems to work great! I am able to still read the AFR on the dyno screen as well as have the 0-5 volt signal. I did find out also that the volt reference to AFR is as noted;

0 volts = 10.0:1 AFR
5 volts = 30.0:1 AFR

Do we know if one of the current calculated PIDS is formulated with this?? If not I could use a hand making it up and importing it into the sae.generic.txt file.

Thanks

Howard

For whatever its worth..

I just through the unit on a Viper I have in the shop to make sure I have some voltage movement.

14.48:1 AFR equaled 1.135 volts
16.00:1 AFR equaled 1.53 volts
15.15:1 AFR equaled 1.28 volts

I would have to believe these are credible values as the Autronic units was already setup to work with the dyno and the reported values on the dyno are correct. Now I just need to match it up with a pid!

[Redline Motorsports]

Looks like I resolved my own questions! There already is a calc.pid for the Autronic unit. I went and found the formula and the numbers I recorded tonight work against it perfect!

Now I can fianlly do some accurate autotuning!

[Black02SS]

I still dont' understand why you split the output on the wideband. If it has two outputs already, then one could have been used for live as the other on the dyno. Unless I am missing something here. :)

[Redline Motorsports]

Chad,

I split it because the dyno uses the 0-5 volt and I also wanted 0-5 for the FS. I thought it was have better resolution!

Howard

[Black02SS]

Gotcha!!!!

[joecar]

That makes sense since the 0-1V output seems like it can't be reprogrammed.

[Redline Motorsports]

Got it all working like a champ!! Double WB!

No time to do some serious auto tuning!