2008 LMM DSP5 switch not working.

[drthv8r]

I hope I posted this in the correct place. I could use some help please, I can
not for the life of me get my DSP5 switch to work. I installed the switch and
then did a full flash of my DSP5 tune. I wanted to check the DSP5 switch to make
sure it's working so I hooked up the V2 and ran the scan tool and checked the
PIDs. The DSP switch voltage is at 4.98 volts and the DSP Tunes reads NonDSP.
Neither the voltage changes nor does the NonDSP change when I move the DSP5
switch from one position to another.

I know I have the red wire in the ECM connector in the correct place (I took a picture of where I installed it at and had it verified by somebody that knows a lot more than me about this) and to
remove the black wire out of the equation I ran it to the firewall and grounded
it there. I've pulled the ECM connector out several times making sure the red
wire was seated in all the way, I even used a paperclip to make sure it was
seated down into the connector. I know the LMM switch pins on the switch wires
are "keyed" and go into the connector one way and I've installed them in the
correct way.

The V2 is up to date as far as updates goes. I Ohmed the switch and the Ohms
read:
27K
5.6k
2.2k
1k
270

I did a continuity check of the switch at the black wire to ground and the black
wire is grounded. I've even pulled the ECM connector off the ECM and then stuck
two sewing machine needles inside the ECM connector one on one side one on the
other where the red wire goes into the connector and did a continuity check and
that checked out ok.

When I ran the switch install and every time I've messed
with anything concerning the switch I've always unhooked both batterys.
My DSP5 tune was made by a very well know person in the EFILive business but he's
not been any help helping me figure this mess out. I've spent hours trying to
figure this out on my own, I'm frustrated and not a happy camper and feel I've
wasted good money on something that's not working. Sorry this has been so long
winded and I would appreciate any help. Thanks.

[Brian1]

First have you updated the software and V2 bootblock and firmware to the latest public release versions?
If so post the V7.5 and V8 as well as the boot block and firmware on the Flashscan V2.

Next read the tune off the ECM. One cannot fully read a DSP5 tune out of an ECM but you should be able to determine the OS version from the summary page to verfiy the tune flashed.

Next open the tune in the V7.5 EFILive tune app. Confirm the OS version and post that.

Next you did do a Full Flash which would take about 10 minutes to do on and LMM Bosch ECM. Does that sound correct.

Next post the pic of the plug you did so we can confirm it is correct.

Which pin location are you told to be in?

Also the new pin is sticking as far through as the other pins?

When you remove the connector verify the pin is still sticking through fully.

If the switch is working fine as from an ohm meter then it is either the ground is not making a good connection. The pin is in the wrong location. The pin is not fully inserted. The tune flashed to the ECM is not a DSP tune. Last is if all is correct then the ECM is possibly bad but only related to that pin.

Brian

[drthv8r]

Hello Brain thanks for the reply. Yes everything is up to date on the V2:

Boot Block
2.07.04 Dec 12, 2011

Firmware
2.07.35 Jun 22, 2012

I know the ECM is flashed with the DSP5 tune because it has a loud buzzing sound like a fire alarm going off for a good second when I turn the truck off (which I can't stand), none of my other tunes have this stupid buzz to them. I complained about this to the guy that wrote the tunes for me but it fell on death ears. Plus the tuner wrote the DSP5 file as a .ctz file and that's the only .ctz file I have to flash to the ECM. I also have to use EFILive V8 Scan And Tune with this DSP5 file to flash the ECM with, all my other files can be flashed with 7.5. And yes it takes a good while to flash the DSP5 tune to my truck. As it's dark outside now I can take more pictures and post them up in the morning if you need something else.

I've enclosed a picture of where the red wire is installed. The pin looks to be fully seated to me I inserted the red wire into pin hole #46. My truck only has 7500 miles on it I surely hope that part of the ECM isn't bad but I guess stranger things have happened.

Thanks once again for the reply.

[GMC-2002-Dmax]

I assume because there is a small and large connector you inserted the pins in in the large connector and not the smaller of the two.

Have you tried, as a test, during your troubleshooting swapping the ecm into another LBZ or LMM with a working DSP5 switch in it to check the functionality of the ecm in a known/working DSP5 tuned truck.

I have to assume that if you were to try the ecm switch funtionality in another vehicle by scanning/logging the DSP5 "V" or "Tune" Pid and it works and then it doesn't in this particular truck then you have either an incorrectly installed switch and or faulty power/ground connection.

When I troubleshoot I try to rule out the immediate simple stuff, log it first, if it doesn't work then swap it into a known working DSP5 tuned/switch installed LBZ or LMM vehicle and see if it then does work, if it still doesn't switch you ruled out the switch, if it does you know for a fact it's the switch, either way you will have a quick answer.

Good Luck

[drthv8r]

Hello thanks for the reply. Yes I installed the pins in the larger of the 2 connectors. I don't know anybody locally to test my ECM with in their truck. I would think if EFILive 7.5 sees 4.98 volts at the switch that at least the red wire has to be inserted and working properly. I'm including a picture where I ran the ground wire from the switch to the firewall. I'm an electrician by trade so I know a little about wiring although automobile wiring can be a very different animal. I'm sure whatever is wrong with this whole DSP5 switch ordeal is something simple it usually always is but I'm really close to throwing in the towel on this. Posting my troubles here in the forum is pretty much my last resort. Thanks once again.

[TDFDiesel]

Your pin isn't seated completely, use a safety pin and push in further.

Only other option is your pin is in the wrong slot.

I'm voting push it in more. LBZ and LMM don't like to seat fully.

[drthv8r]

Thanks for the reply but I did use a small straightened out paper clip to push the pin deeper into the ECM connector to make sure it was seated when I first started this DSP5 adventure, because I've read that LMM ECMs can be a bit of a bear to work with. I can't see how it can be in the wrong slot when the EFILive tutorial instructions say Pin 46 next to the tan wire.

LBZ & LMM
Signal = Connector 1 (the larger plug), pin 46, (next to Grey wire-LBZ,Tan wire-LMM).

The pin is in nice and tight I can't pull it back out when gently tugging on it. I found a tutorial on how the build a DSP5 switch for under $9.00, I may just order some parts up and build my own as I'm out of options. The hardest part will be getting the connector pins Tray #19 1928498135. I hope my local dealer has some in stock. Thanks all once again.

[TDFDiesel]

Thanks for the reply but I did use a small straightened out paper clip to push the pin deeper into the ECM connector to make sure it was seated when I first started this DSP5 adventure, because I've read that LMM ECMs can be a bit of a bear to work with. I can't see how it can be in the wrong slot when the EFILive tutorial instructions say Pin 46 next to the tan wire.

LBZ & LMM
Signal = Connector 1 (the larger plug), pin 46, (next to Grey wire-LBZ,Tan wire-LMM).

The pin is in nice and tight I can't pull it back out when gently tugging on it. I found a tutorial on how the build a DSP5 switch for under $9.00, I may just order some parts up and build my own as I'm out of options. The hardest part will be getting the connector pins Tray #19 1928498135. I hope my local dealer has some in stock. Thanks all once again.

Push in with safety pin further. Paperclip didn't work for me.

[drthv8r]

Push in with safety pin further. Paperclip didn't work for me.

OK I'll try that in the morning thanks.

[Brian1]

Correct location. I agree not fully seated for starts. As for the pin that number I believe has been changed since most likely a new maker of the pin for GM. Lowest bidder as usually. Most have a hard time finding tray #19 because it actually never was in their rack. Just a cardboard box to the side usually. If it was connected you should be able to read 5 volts off pin 46. Now for the buzzing sound I suspect that maybe you have turbo braking in the tune and is in the base tune as well. I feel they may have it sit to 100% in the vane set point in a low RPM range below idle or actually near zero. Just a guess on that without hearing it. Possible the vane sensor is out of adjustment or bad but this idea I am not sure if it could be the cause.

Brian

[LReiff]

Hello thanks for the reply. Yes I installed the pins in the larger of the 2 connectors. I don't know anybody locally to test my ECM with in their truck. I would think if EFILive 7.5 sees 4.98 volts at the switch that at least the red wire has to be inserted and working properly. I'm including a picture where I ran the ground wire from the switch to the firewall. I'm an electrician by trade so I know a little about wiring although automobile wiring can be a very different animal. I'm sure whatever is wrong with this whole DSP5 switch ordeal is something simple it usually always is but I'm really close to throwing in the towel on this. Posting my troubles here in the forum is pretty much my last resort. Thanks once again.

I'm not sure what this picture is showing us. Could you explain further?

[drthv8r]

I took the connector off the ECM again and I used a small needle to try to push the pin with the red wire in farther down into the connector. I even smacked it lightly with a hammer, I don't think it can possibly go down in anymore. Still nothing as far as the DSP5 switch goes, when I drive the truck it runs the same no matter what position the switch is in. If the V2 reads the DSP switch voltage at 4.98 volts in the PIDs wouldn't that mean the red wire is in the correct spot and seated correctly? Still nothing changes when I read the DSP5 Tune PIDs it stays at NonDSP no matter what position I turn the switch to. As I said my DSP5 tune was written buy what most say is one of the top tuners in the country, so I would hope the tune was written correctly. This sure has had me stumped. Thanks once again for all the replies.


Correct location. I agree not fully seated for starts.
Brian

[drthv8r]

Hello, if you're referring to the picture where I'm pointing to. That's where I ran the black wire from the DSP5 switch to the firewall. I've heard some are having issues with that pin seating in the ECM connector and suggested running the black wire to a good ground on the truck and not to use that pin in the ECM connector. I figure it's one less pin having to be seated correctly in the ECM connector to worry about.


I'm not sure what this picture is showing us. Could you explain further?

[LReiff]

I see. Maybe that's part of your problem, if the ecm isn't grounded well to the body...

I always put both pins in the ecm connector, it ain't rocket science.

[TDFDiesel]

I took the connector off the ECM again and I used a small needle to try to push the pin with the red wire in farther down into the connector. I even smacked it lightly with a hammer, I don't think it can possibly go down in anymore. Still nothing as far as the DSP5 switch goes, when I drive the truck it runs the same no matter what position the switch is in. If the V2 reads the DSP switch voltage at 4.98 volts in the PIDs wouldn't that mean the red wire is in the correct spot and seated correctly? Still nothing changes when I read the DSP5 Tune PIDs it stays at NonDSP no matter what position I turn the switch to. As I said my DSP5 tune was written buy what most say is one of the top tuners in the country, so I would hope the tune was written correctly. This sure has had me stumped. Thanks once again for all the replies.

Non dsp or 4.98 volts means your wires aren't connected. Ground at the battery and recheck the hole its installed in. Sounds like its fully seated, so its likely the wrong hole.

Is it in the top or bottom connector?

[JoshH]

Can you probe the red wire and verify it has 5 volts going through it? If not, you are not making good contact to the pin in the ECM or there is a problem with the ECM. When you installed the pin in the connector, did you slide the little purple pin retainer thing out before pushing the pin in, and have you been pulling it back out when trying to make sure it is fully seated? Assuming you put the pin in the top/larger connector, it looks like you have it in the right spot.

[drthv8r]

Well as you can see it's a bit of rocket science with me...lol. Do you by chance have an LMM? From what I've been reading (and a lot of reading that is) the LMMs can be a bit fickle.


I always put both pins in the ecm connector, it ain't rocket science.

[drthv8r]

Hello all. I followed this link in youtube along with a lot of reading. If the link isn't allowed here please remove it, I figured it'll help you guys understand just exactly what I've done. Except for adding the ground wire of course.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2MbwQPEDTF8

I installed the red wire in the large connector. I'll probe the red wire in the morning and make sure the switch has 5 volts, but I thought that reading the PIDs with the V2 did that for me. Thanks for all the replys.

[IdahoRob]

Biggest thing is to rotate the pin properly as Monte mentioned in the video. The locking clip of the square pin needs to go towards the center of the harness connector. You should not have to force the pin in, just slide it in and feel it click. If you did not feel it click, then it didn't go in all the way.

Even after doing a bunch, I make the mistake at times of putting it in the wrong opening.

[drthv8r]

Hello all. I back probed the red wire and there's no voltage there, so much for believing in the V2 and the PIDs for reading the voltage correctly for me. I guess that's pay back for being lazy and not double checking using a meter. I made sure the red wire went into the correct pin hole and also made sure the locking tab on the red wire was pointed towards the center line of the connector. I didn't force it when it went in originally and it went in pretty far I've just been using things to try to push it down into the connector more since I couldn't get anything to work thinking maybe it just wasn't seated down far enough and making a loose contact. I'll try to get the pin back out without pulling the pin off the wire and see what's going on with it.

I guess I'm down to the locking pin not being inserted the correct way, the ECM has a dead spot where the pin connects to (that would be my luck) or the pin on the end of the wire isn't making contact with the red wire. Monte made an excellent detailed video and I thank him for that. I guess the one good thing with all this is I can now remove the ECM connectors blindfolded...lol. Thanks once again for all the feedback.

[TDFDiesel]

Hello all. I back probed the red wire and there's no voltage there, so much for believing in the V2 and the PIDs for reading the voltage correctly for me. I guess that's pay back for being lazy and not double checking using a meter. I made sure the red wire went into the correct pin hole and also made sure the locking tab on the red wire was pointed towards the center line of the connector. I didn't force it when it went in originally and it went in pretty far I've just been using things to try to push it down into the connector more since I couldn't get anything to work thinking maybe it just wasn't seated down far enough and making a loose contact. I'll try to get the pin back out without pulling the pin off the wire and see what's going on with it.

I guess I'm down to the locking pin not being inserted the correct way, the ECM has a dead spot where the pin connects to (that would be my luck) or the pin on the end of the wire isn't making contact with the red wire. Monte made an excellent detailed video and I thank him for that. I guess the one good thing with all this is I can now remove the ECM connectors blindfolded...lol. Thanks once again for all the feedback.

You use a small sewing needle to release the pin from below, pull it out. It should slide in like the slot is lubed with basically no force applied. You should hear a click and then push it in a little bit further with a safety pin or REALLY small punch.

I'd make 100% sure it's in the right connector (Top one which is larger) and double check the wire number the wire next to it.

5v Non DSP means that you do NOT have a connection as I stated above.


Non dsp or 4.98 volts means your wires aren't connected. Ground at the battery and recheck the hole its installed in. Sounds like its fully seated, so its likely the wrong hole.

If you break a pin or it doesn't come out be very careful how you proceed. I have a tutorial on another forum on how to remove broken pins, so let me know if you need that and I'll post it up. DO NOT try to extra the terminal without reading it, there is a LOT of bad information on the internet and you don't want to ruin the connector.

Ground at the battery so you know you have a good ground. You can actually cut that end off (make sure you leave plenty of wire as a tail) and ground there so you have your other terminal pin available. Then if you absolutely need you can use that terminal if the other is messed up OR you can solder the wires back together and eventually ground at the ECM. Personally mine is grounded to the body directly without any issues.

It's well worth it once you get everything installed, can just be a PITA till you get there.

[GMC-2002-Dmax]

Did you pull the purple horseshoe out of the connector ???

If not then the pin will never make contact