help setup LC1 to V2

[400ss]

i just get my LC1 wide band andi want to set it up to start tuning my truck, i read several threads about it but now im confused some threads say serial and others ones say analog, wich one should i use and whats the difference when using it on AutoVE or CALC VE.. do i first need to calibrate the Sensorr?? it says the outputs are precalibrated from factory

[joecar]

Serial.

See here (the see especially post #3 of the last link):



V2 serial/digital wideband logging:
showthread.php?t=8858 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=8858)
showthread.php?t=8115 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=8115)
showthread.php?t=10251 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=10251) post #2

V2 serial/digital AFR input (LC-1):
showthread.php?t=8115 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=8115)
showthread.php?t=7532 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=7532)
showthread.php?t=8348 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=8348)
showthread.php?t=9340 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=9340) post #3


Use the calc_pids.txt file located in post #1 here: A-New-Twist-on-CALC-VE-Table-Computing-the-Entire-VE-Table (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?15236-A-New-Twist-on-CALC-VE-Table-Computing-the-Entire-VE-Table)

i.e this file: calc_pids.txt (http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=13243&d=1337978026)

for AutoVE and AutoMAF use CALC.WO2BEN

for Calc.VET and Calc.MAFT use CALC.SELBEN

[joecar]

You need to do two calibrations on the LC-1:
- heater calibration (once per LSu4.2 sensor),
- free air calibration (peridically).

With serial comms there is no voltage offsets to worry about.

[400ss]

i read about this, but its not 100% clear yet.

On the serial port cable--> It has 3 wires, i will made the cable using the efilive serial cable and the lc1 serial cable, i will cut and solder the wires using the diagrams..
(the DB9 side goes to the efilive and the 2.5mm male goes to the LC1 2.5mm OUTPUT female) ?????

The LC1 control box has 6 wires:
Red---Ignition 12v suply
White(system ground)---Do i need to tie this one with the blue wire and ground both to the car?
Blue(Sensor ground)---- Do i need to tie this one with the white wire and ground both to the car?
yellow(Analog1)--- this wire is not going to be needed anymore?
Brown(analog2)--- this wire is not going to be needed anymore?
Black---- Calibration wire (what i should do with this one?? should i use it for calibration or i can use the efilive to calibrate the sensor??)) do i have to use the LED and switch???)

Sorry for all the questions, i been reading but not 100% sure

[joecar]

Yes, the serial cable crosses Tx and Rx (this is called "null modem");

yes, the serial cable connects to the LC-1 SERIAL OUT (it is so labelled);

don't forget the blank terminator plug, it goes into the LC-1 SERIAL IN (it is so labelled);


you need only these connections on the LC-1:
- red = switched/fused battery power,
- blue = battery ground,
- black = positive side of switch/LED (anode+)
- white = negative side of switch/LED (cathode-)

[ the switch and LED are in connected in parallel with each other ]

note that black is not a ground;

there is no need to tie white to blue or ground;


yellow and brown are used for analog signal output only, so they are not needed, tape them off so they don't short.

[joecar]

The white/black wire connection to the switch/LED is optional, you can have those connected to see what is going on when you don't have V2 connected to vehicle.

The status of the LC-1 can be displayed by either LED or V2.

Free air calibration can be initiated from either V2 or switch.

[400ss]

All right thanks for all the info. im going to start making the serial cable. will follow the threads posted on top of this one, and i will update the results, thanks for all.. i respect you because i been reading as much as i can and i can see that JOECAR allways is there to help people. thanks

[joecar]

You can bench test the LC-1 before installing it by doing this:
- connect terminator into SERIAL IN;
- connect SERIAL OUT to null modem cable to V2;
- connect battery power/ground (using a fused jumper wire);
- connect V2 to vehicle or to USB port on PC (to power it up);
- on V2 LCD/keypad navigate to wideband screen, and you should see the AFR (place some brake cleaner on rag and cover the sensor, you should see the AFR go rich).

[400ss]

Thank you. I have finished my serial cable now.. To be able to see the wideband screen on the EFILIVE first i need to complete the serial wideband tutorial right?? let me do it and i will report the results.. this is very important for me. i really want to learn and i want to be a tuner on the future..

[joecar]

Ok... the tutorial shows you how to enable the serial wideband in V2... the tutorial is lagging behind the software...


[ start V8 S&T, goto Devices, goto Serial I/O, set Com Port to Wideband, set Wideband to Innovate, click Save (saves to file), click Program (programs to V2). ]

[ if you want to automatically log the wideband pids, go Logging, and checkmark Automatically Log External (Serial) Pids. ]

[joecar]

REMEMBER to plug in the terminator plug (2.5mm blank stereo plug) into the LC-1 SERIAL IN... (sometimes it's hard to plug in, put a small dab of vaseline on on it).

[400ss]

thank you very much.. i did what you told me, and its working now, both calibrations, did one with the switch and led and the free air calibration with the EFILIVE.. its working now.. thank you

Now i want to start tuning my truck, its pretty much a stock 5.3L but i want to do the autoVE and calcVE tutoriols that are on flash scan tool software.. what i need to changue on the pids?? thanks alot

[400ss]

If you have the file for the pids selections that are needed for the AUTOVE and AUTOMAF, and the maps file for AUTOVE and AUTOMAF that will be great, that way i can open those maps on the scantool and understand better

[joecar]

See attached Calc.VET pid/map files...

these can be modified for AutoVE/AutoMAF...


try doing Calc.VET first, it is very easy to do... see here: A-New-Twist-on-CALC-VE-Table-Computing-the-Entire-VE-Table (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?15236-A-New-Twist-on-CALC-VE-Table-Computing-the-Entire-VE-Table)

[400ss]

Ok thank you for everything, you push me to the right direction, and thanks for your patient.. i will read,read,read and try it, will uptade results, for the moment i want to thank you. sorry for my english.. Im not from United States, but i love cars.. I have a shop and is almost dedicated for engine swaps with LS, srt8, Ford, but mostly LS engines, one day i read about this hardware software EFILIVE and i just feel that i wanted to learn how to tune,, and this forum has been helping me alot.. thanks, i apreciate it, thanks to everyone, especialy youu a taz.

[400ss]

I read and study the CALCVE PDF and i think i understand.!! ....Now,,, how do you make a good log?? i just need to try to hit as many cells as posible in all the table?? normal driving, WOT, idle ...?? And what about if i put new heads or cam??,, i think i need to select the entire VE and multiply it for some % to be richer and be safe?

DO I NEED TO CHANGUE SOMETHING ON THE TUNE BEFORE CALCVET? sorry for all the questions

[joecar]

Hey 400ss, no worries, your English is fine, we all love cars here too :cheers:


Good log requires you to operate the throttle in a smooth/progressive manner (i.e. not jerky), possibly going up hills or using the brakes to load the engine...

you want to hit each cell in the VE table as many times as possible (but as you know the LS1 spins up very quickly)... the non-hit cells are not important since they're not in the operating range (these can be hand-adjusted to match the rest of the VE surface).


If you put new heads/cam, yes to be safe, increase the VE table in the area where the torque peak is expected and above (multiply by say +6% or +8% or +10% depending on cam)...
and if the cam has large overlap, decrease the VE table in the idle range...
keeping in mind that the cam's overlap/duration changes the idle range (increase the idle rpm).

[joecar]

Before doing Calc.VET, you could set B0120 to 400 rpm (disables the VE table), but this is not necessary for the following reason:

since the VE table is used during transient airflow, when you apply the transient filter, any data where the airflow is transient is ignored... i.e. the VE table contribution is ignored.

You could do a little experiment, take logs with B0120 set to 4000 and 400, in each log apply the transient filter, and compare the maps, they will show pretty much the same data.

[400ss]

All right that sounds perfect.. i think im ready to start working on the tune.. i will let you know the results. thank you and thanks to everyone on this great forum

[joecar]

Keep an eye on units in the scantool and tunetool, make sure they agree with each other (e.g. MAP kPa in both, VE g*K/kPa in both, etc...)

[400ss]

One question...

Do you have any idea why my TPS SHOWS 50% AT WOT ?? I removed the air filter tube and check the TB blade, at full, it only opens like a litle more than 1/4...

This is the current tune on the truck:

it is drive by wire

[joecar]

You may need to adjust the throttle cable.

[400ss]

sorry i didnt explain myself. it is electronic throttle body, it is a 06 5.3L/4L60E. 06 blue/ green conector ECM, custom engine harness that i build (i have done several engine harness) this combo is on a 1993 Ford Lightning

[joecar]

Oh, I see, DBW... trying looking at the pids ETCTP and APP (and there may be others).

[ARC]

If you have two lc-1 oxygen sensors is their away to wire them both into the v-2 for mapping ve charts? Thanks. I was thinking I would wire them in anolog through the yellow wire. I have the cables to wire them in through the 2mm plug but not sure how to run two at a time for bank 1 and bank 2. Also is bank 1 on the right or left when sitting in the drivers seat?

[joecar]

With V2 you can daisy chain 2 LC-1 wideband's as follows:


First LC-1:
SERIAL IN <- terminator plu (2.5mm blank stereo looking plug)
SERIAL OUT -> second LC-1's SERIAL IN (using short cable that comes with LC-1)

Second LC-1:
SERIAL IN <- first LC-1'1 SERIAL OUT
SERIAL OUT -> FSV2 (using null modem serial comms cable)

i.e.

TERMINATOR -> first LC-1 -> second LC-1 -> FSV2


where on each LC-1, left side is SERIAL IN, right side is SERIAL OUT, and FSV2 requires null modem serial comms cable

see this for null modem cable: showthread.php?t=9340 (http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=9340) post #3



Then on V2's BBx config, you have to specify 2 LC-1 widebands.

[joecar]

B1 = lhs, B2 = rhs.

[ARC]

The only problem I have now is waiting for the cable the serial link the two lc-1 together. I could not find a 2.5mm cable with two male ends at the locale retailers. Order the cable, I did check and this cable was not includewith the lc-1. (ordered 1x lc-1 sensor and a seperate senor with gauge. Every thing is wired in and waiting for the missing piece to the puzzle. Soon the fun begins!:banana:

[joecar]

It is supposed to come with the LC-1 (look at the LC-1 user manual pdf, at the end it shows a pic of what is in the box)...

tell Innovate that it was not in the box.

[Sturdy]

you need only these connections on the LC-1:
- red = switched/fused battery power,
- blue = battery ground,
- black = positive side of switch/LED (anode+)
- white = negative side of switch/LED (cathode-)

there is no need to tie white to blue or ground;



Hopefully just a quick question, I've been reading the various tutorials but of course they're lagging behind the software quite a bit. Plenty of confusion regarding grounding the LC-1 and so on, but using the serial seems to make that a lot simpler.

Anyway, I intend to use the serial connection to the LC-1 (with a NULL modem adapter ;) ) but I also have a gauge that will be using one of the analog outputs. As such, do I need to tie the LC-1 white cable to ground, or white to blue?

For reference, the V2 will not always be connected, but I will still be using the gauge when the V2 is not connected, so if any additional grounding is required, advice would be appreciated. The gauge is just an innovate gauge purchased with the LC-1. I'll just use analog output 2 as that's already programmed to work fine with the gauge by default.

Thanks in advance :)

[mr.prick]

http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=7202&d=1266532272

[Sturdy]

Thanks for that. Just because I like to be sure, this is what I'm after right?

16522

[joecar]

Yes, that's correct.

[Sturdy]

I have an Innovate DB gauge, in the installation instructions, it says to tie the ground to the same ground source shared with the wideband controller.

Presumably this doesn't need to be on the same bung, so long as it's the same ground?

Also, I guess the 12V switched (for illumination) doesn't need to be the same 12V switched source as the controller (presumably better if it's separate?)

For reference the Innovate install instructions are here (http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/DB_manual.pdf).

My apologies for the simple questions, here's another diagram just in case it helps someone in the future understand :)

16524