Tuning assistance on my 08 5.3 silverado

[icemanjc1]

While I do enjoy and have had great results tuning Cummins and Duramax, I can't get a good handle on my gas motor. So I could use some help.

I purchased a 2008 Chevy Silverado 1500 crew cab 4x4 5.3 (E38) flex fuel back in April of this year. Since then I have installed tri-y headers (fabbed in high flow cats) with all 4 stock O2s, free flowing exhaust, performance oriented rebuilt transmission with 2000 rpm stall converter. Only engine work I've done was replace the camshaft (mild Comp truck cam) due premature failure of the stocker and to also mechanically be rid of the AFM crap.

Any help would be appreciated.

[joecar]

Have a read of the E38/E67 VVE Tutorial and Guide...

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?8961-E38-VVE-Setup-Guide

post #68 contains a link to both documents.

[icemanjc1]

Thanks for that, lots of info there. My question is, are wide band O2s a must to use the VVE setup guide?

[Wheelz]

It is highly recommended. It cost around $200 to get a serial WB. I recommend the innovative LC-1

[icemanjc1]

$200 for for the kit and sensor, but wouldn't I need 2 of them? Or do you just put it after the Y pipe and you're good?

[Wheelz]

$200 for the sensor and sender. All you need to make it work with your V2 is a null modem db9 adapter, or build your own 3/16 stereo to RJ-12 serial cable (that's what I did) there are instructions around here that explain that part better. Ill look them up.

And you only need the one sensor. You only have one VE table and one MAF calibration, along with the geometry being identical between banks, so one sensor works just fine. Some people use 2 but they are a minority.

You have a couple options for installation. A) add an exhaust bung for the WB sensor before the cat but after the collector on the header. This will let you run all your sensors like stock. Or B) which is what I did for now (I have tri-y headers in the garage. I just wanted a baseline to quantify any gains/losses) you can remove the driver front NBo2 sensor and disable trimming from the factory o2 sensors in the calibration. Then install the WB in that exhaust bung, tune the MAF and VE to your satisfaction, then remove the WB and reinstall the factory sensor and re-enable trimming. It involves a slightly modified calc_pids.text file than the original Calc.VET, but I have a thread with all the files you will need, along with how to disable trimming. Ill post it up in a sec.

[Wheelz]

Here is my thread

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?p=194271#post194271

[Wheelz]

And here is all the info to connect the LC1 to the V2

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?p=81200#post81200

[joecar]

You could connect the LC-1 analog output 1 to drive the NBO2 signal to the PCM (so the PCM can run in CL)...

NBO2 plug:
- pin A (signal lo) = LC-1 white or green;
- pin B (signal high) = LC-1 yellow;


e.g. F-car plug shown yours may look different (cut off a plug from an old NBO2 or buy one):
http://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=478&d=1140807723

I also provide power/ground to my LC-1 from pins D and C... this only works if your PCM does not switch NBO2 power on/off (i.e. pin C goes directly to ground and not to the ECM).

[icemanjc1]

LC-1 is on the way, but I have another question. Air per cyl oz/ cylinder vs. grams/cylinder. Why does the axis measured to cyl oz and not to grams per cylinder if we log in grams/cylinder? How are we supposed to track things like spark timing in the tune?

Also, the fuel that is sold around here is up to 10% ethanol. So being that my truck is calculating at anywhere from 19%-35% ethanol and adjusting accordingly, wouldn't it be wise to set B3671 higher to achieve a better AFR for the time being?

[Wheelz]

LC-1 is on the way, but I have another question. Air per cyl oz/ cylinder vs. grams/cylinder. Why does the axis measured to cyl oz and not to grams per cylinder if we log in grams/cylinder? How are we supposed to track thinks like spark timing in the tune?

Also, the fuel that is sold around here is up to 10% ethanol. So being that my truck is calculating at anywhere from 19%-35% ethanol and adjusting accordingly, wouldn't it be wise to set B3671 higher to achieve a better AFR for the time being?

You should change the displayed units in your tune to match the units your logging (metric) or vice versa. To change the tube units, click edit->configure display units, then select the table number in the list and click your desired unit type.

You can also get a fuel tester kit to calculate the ethanol composition and then compare it to what your truck is measuring and then adjust b3671 (I'm assuming your referencing the AFR from ethanol percentage table) accordingly based on the desired AFR for your fuel

[icemanjc1]

Well that's an easy fix, thank you.

[joecar]

In scantool: on PIDs tab, click the column headings to get pids with same units grouped together, highlight the group, then go rightclick->Metric.

In tunetool: go Edit->Configure Display Units, then for each of Data, Col, Row click the heading to group by same units, highlight the group, then go rightclick->Metric (as Wheelz said).

[icemanjc1]

Here's my new setup: 6.0 ls2 block with ported Scroggin Dickie heads, Vinci ultra torque cam (080), flat top pistons (10.5 to 1), stock intake manifold, S&B intake, tri Y headers....

Runs pretty well considering it's my stone age tuning. BUT, I need this pick up tuned better and I obviously am incapable of doing this. For one, the LC-1 needs to calibrated yet doesn't come with a push button switch or LED, screw it I hooked it up anyway. The fact that you need a Null modem adaptor, ok, got that. Turn it all on in the V2 or in V8, done. Rewrite the file according to SwingTan's tutorial, did it. Setup PID file to log data, no. No. No. Can't find BEN FACTOR for WB anywhere. MAP and RPM won't even log (N/A). WB 02 AFR reads up in the 50:1's..... Not to mention the fact the frickin' thing barely idles and runs runs rich as hell, won't hardly rev up. NOW FOR MY Question.


Who's willing to exercise extreme patience and walk me through how to setup a ACTUAL, test file that I can actually log in or order to change the VVE? A PID file actually for a GEN 4 E38? Hell, I would pay one of you to write a tune file for me. I can't describe to all of you how sick it makes feel to not understand how to make this work. Everywhere I search, people say it works and mildly describe how to do it, but leave out tid bits of info that are required to get to the spoken purpose. Assumption is that "been there, you should know how".

As you can tell, just finished fighting with this and I'm furious!

16762

[joecar]

Hi Joel,

Let's start with the pids you can't log... post a screenshot of the scantool's PID's tab showing the pids you selected,,,

"MAP and RPM won't even log"

are SAE.MAP and SAE.RPM the pids selected (rather than GM.MAP and GM.RPM)...?

[joecar]

Also, apparently you got the serial comms connection to the wideband working...

can you see the LC-1's AFR on the V2 LCD...?

sanity check:
your serial comms should be wired like this:
LC-1 <-- terminator plug (blank stereo jack looking plug),
LC-1 --> Innovate serial cable --> null modem adapter --> EFILive serial cable --> FlashScan V2.

if you don't have the pushbutton that came with the LC-1, then you can still initiate free air calibration from the V2 LCD/menu.

You have to do both O2 heater calibration (once only) and free air calibration (periodically), do you understand how to do each...?

[joecar]

Also, which V7 and V8 software build versions are you using...?

V8: should tell you when you start V8 Scan&Tune (S&T).
V7: in scantool or tunetool do Help->About.

[icemanjc1]

MAP and RPM probably were SAE, I'll use GM. Terminator plug is in the out port, serial plug connected to the COM in. I have not done either calibration and am not sure how, nor did I now it was possible through the V2. I'll get back to you on the software build versions, laptop is at home and I'm at work. Tonight I also need to post the VVE tuning base file I made....

[joecar]

"Terminator plug is in the out port, serial plug connected to the COM in."

This ^ is wrong...

it should be like this:
LC-1 SERIAL IN <-- terminator plug (blank stereo jack looking plug),
LC-1 SERIAL OUT --> Innovate serial cable --> null modem adapter --> EFILive serial cable --> FlashScan V2.

[joecar]

"MAP and RPM probably were SAE, I'll use GM."

You will find the reverse.

[icemanjc1]

No my fault, terminator plug was in the "in" port. I suppose I was using GM....

Here's the file :frown:

16767

So, how do I calibrate the WB with the V2?

[joecar]

"I have not done either calibration and am not sure how"

heater calibration: unplug the O2 sensor from the LC-1, power up the LC-1, power it down, reconnect the O2 senor, power up the LC-1, wait for it to finish.

free air calibration: power on LC-1, wait 30 seconds or so, initiate free air cal from V2, wait for it to finish.

[icemanjc1]

Both calibrations complete, tested with some brake cleaner on a rag like you mentioned in a previous thread.