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99Silver6.0
April 6th, 2006, 02:13 PM
This topic may have been done to death. I just started messing with my WB again, to try and get it to read the same as EFILive. I did some searching and found some old posts on what the voltages should be. But ive seen so much different stuff I dont know which direction to go now. What are the numbers I need to set this at? I wanna get to work with AutoVE.

mmorgan24
April 6th, 2006, 03:37 PM
The LC-1 afr/voltage table is here: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/SampleAnalogOutTable.pdf Be sure to read their grounding notes.

SSpdDmon
April 7th, 2006, 03:18 AM
I don't think those are the default voltage/AFR's. That's just an example of what it would be if you programmed it that way. I believe the default programming starts at 0V=7.35AFR and 5V=22.39AFR.

What you need to do is reprogram the LC1 to output 2V (since this is where most of your readings will be close to). You do this by changing the LC1 to say 2V=7.35AFR and 2V=22.39AFR. Then, read the voltage in Flashscan. The difference in what you commanded (2V) vs what you read is your voltage offset . This is the number that you will use to create a custom .pid for your LC1 setup in Flashscan. The equation in Flashscan is set at ({EXT.AD1}*3)+7.35 and I believe you need it be (({EXT.AD1}-Voffset)*3)+7.35. So, if your offset is -.2V (.2V bellow commanded), you're effectively adding .2V back in to the EXT.AD1 (minus a negative = add) before it calculates the AFR by mulitplying by 3 and adding 7.35

quicksilverta
April 7th, 2006, 02:20 PM
So i guess this is the wrong way to do it?http://68.178.219.18/tutorials/LC-1%20Installation%20Tutorial.pdf

99Silver6.0
April 7th, 2006, 02:42 PM
Im gonna give this a shot.

SSpdDmon
April 7th, 2006, 03:33 PM
So i guess this is the wrong way to do it?http://68.178.219.18/tutorials/LC-1%20Installation%20Tutorial.pdf

That's one way to set up your LC1. It's not wrong. Just different. However, it doesn't take into consideration (at least not that I could find) voltage offset. It's fairly important to check because a .2v difference means ~.5AFR difference. Basically, you need to dial in your wideband before you dial in your tune. The whole wiring process and everything that's described in that .pdf (or however you decide to do it) should be done prior to this.

quicksilverta
April 8th, 2006, 09:48 AM
That's one way to set up your LC1. It's not wrong. Just different. However, it doesn't take into consideration (at least not that I could find) voltage offset. It's fairly important to check because a .2v difference means ~.5AFR difference. Basically, you need to dial in your wideband before you dial in your tune. The whole wiring process and everything that's described in that .pdf (or however you decide to do it) should be done prior to this.
Hey thanks for you help, i'll give that a try.

jamesbond2509
May 28th, 2006, 09:42 AM
Question

Does the green and white wire need to be grounded before connected into Flashcan. Please advise.

Thanks

joecar
May 28th, 2006, 09:55 AM
Question

Does the green and white wire need to be grounded before connected into Flashcan. Please advise.

ThanksNo, mine go straight to the FlashScan analog input or to the NBO2 connector's signal input.