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View Full Version : Newbie Question: LQ4 Silverado Tune from AT --> MT <?>



redXman
October 20th, 2014, 02:15 PM
Hi Guys

New to EFI LIVE, reading and learning alot, but I've come to an impasse and need some help.

I'm finishing up a swap into a '00 S10

Donor Engine:
2005 Silverado 2500 LQ4 6.0L
DBW , Pedal, TAC Module, all from 05 Silverado as well
Transmission = T56 from '00 Camaro

Problem:
I'm operating on the OS and tune I read out of the truck ECU. But it's for AT, so while I disabled all of those things, as best I could, it still has some rev - hang and DFCO and driveability just isn't right.

I'd like to switch to something that is an Manual Trans, preferably a 6.0L of the same generation like GTO or CTS-V

1) Does the OS need to match from my current to target calibration? Because I can't find anything that has the same OS, is 6.0L and Manual Trans.

2) Should I do a segment swap from an MT vehicle? I have some some .tun files that have the same OS, like Corvette I believe, and are Manual Trans.

3) In what cases would I need to do a Cal-Flash vs Full-Flash? Can I change OS w/ a Full-Flash?

Thanks for the help!

joecar
October 20th, 2014, 03:02 PM
Do you have the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) switch...?

redXman
October 20th, 2014, 09:47 PM
Do you have the CPP (Clutch Pedal Position) switch...?

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, I have CPP switch, my S10 was originally a 4cyl / 5spd. But I don't have CPP wired into the PCM currently. Should I?

joecar
October 20th, 2014, 10:51 PM
...

But I don't have CPP wired into the PCM currently. Should I?
If you have it, your calibration will be able to use the P/N and In-Gear idle tables.


...
1) Does the OS need to match from my current to target calibration? Because I can't find anything that has the same OS, is 6.0L and Manual Trans.

2) Should I do a segment swap from an MT vehicle? I have some some .tun files that have the same OS, like Corvette I believe, and are Manual Trans.

3) In what cases would I need to do a Cal-Flash vs Full-Flash? Can I change OS w/ a Full-Flash?

1) OS needs to match the DBW hardware.

2) Yes, do segment swap from same-OS manual trans calibration (this is where the CPP comes into play).

3) You do full-flash to change OS; otherwise a cal flash is sufficient.

redXman
October 21st, 2014, 02:50 AM
If you have it, your calibration will be able to use the P/N and In-Gear idle tables.


1) OS needs to match the DBW hardware.

2) Yes, do segment swap from same-OS manual trans calibration (this is where the CPP comes into play).

3) You do full-flash to change OS; otherwise a cal flash is sufficient.

OK Great! -- BUT, I can't find a .tun file w/OS 12592618 that is MT. Seems to be only trucks w/AT.

Does anyone have a stock MT .tun with OS 12592618 they can share???

Taz
October 21st, 2014, 07:19 AM
OK Great! -- BUT, I can't find a .tun file w/OS 12592618 that is MT. Seems to be only trucks w/AT.

Does anyone have a stock MT .tun with OS 12592618 they can share???


There is one on the Tune File Depot website. The 2005 CTS-V used that OS with the 5.7L LS6 and the T56 (manual) transmission.

Also, some 2005 4.8L LR4 trucks came with 5 speed manual transmissions, and used that OS.

redXman
October 23rd, 2014, 01:55 AM
Thanks guys, I grabbed the file from Tune File Depot, I had trouble navigating and didn't find the By Make sections for a while.

I did the segment swap and also copied many of the Engine Side tables related to Fuel / Spark DFCO.

Now the truck runs much better and DFCO is proper instead of rev hanging and such.

Still need to wire in the CPP as joecar mentioned, as right now when coming to stop, it will stall most of the time. Not 100% sure if that's the CPP issue, or desired airflow / throttle cracker / throttle follower data not set perfectly.

Thanks for the help, this thing is super fun to drive, wish I had done the swap sooner!

redXman
October 24th, 2014, 12:57 AM
Last night I hooked the CPP wire into my ECU, but I had a question:

What should the CPP output be? +12V when On or Off or Ground vs Open etc. ?

I couldn't get anything out of the switch, confirmed it was connected to the brake switch in series, so not sure what is going on. By reading wiring diagrams it seems it should have +12V when the brake it pressed and the clutch switch is closed (not sure whether that means pedal in or out).