looking for big help with tuning an extremely large cam in my ls1

[01blkss]

hello guys i have a similar post in the SD section but this seems to be the place to really dind my information.

hello gentleman...

I will be installing a TREX cam in my 2001 ls1 and i currently have a SD tune in the car but with boltons only.

i am looking for great information about how i am going to tune the car for this cam. what are the major things i am going to look at and what are the things i am going to change.

What are these things going to do, and how is changing them going to affect my motor?

PLEASE help me out

Thanks
Louie

[white2001s10]

These are all my opinions here:

The hardest part will be getting a decently smooth idle, so of course all the idle tables apply, including idle speed & spark, etc...

A cam like that generally moves more air through the system, but traps less in the cylinder... meaning lower cylinder pressure and more misfires.
To an extent, the idle speed can be raised to counter-act this, but keep in mind that simply raising the idle speed way up is actually the LAST thing you want to do.
When you use other means to smooth and strengthen the idle, you don't have to raise the idle up as much, and all is better this way.

Running closed loop will make fueling at idle very difficult to get right. Stoich according to your narrow-band O2's is not going to be what the engine wants at idle. A wideband is more helpful, but here still it's not 14.6:1 AFR that is going to give you the best/strongest idle with a cam like this.

Open-loop (OLSD) tunes are best suited for taming camshafts like this, because you're not fighting against a fueling correction system that's trying to get 14.6:1 AFR in the exhaust... without actually knowing the AFR in the chambers.

Generally the idle will want to be leaner than 14.6:1 on your wideband... maybe even as lean as 15.5:1 (every engine is a little different).
Generally the spark at idle will want to be increased by quite a lot.
Where 16* works well for a stock or small cam, this cam may want 26* or more at idle.

Even in open-loop, there is an idle control & learning routine that you'll have to work around. This routine isn't expecting big fluctuations in idle speed to be normally happening, so keep that in mind. The routine tries to compensate for fluctuations in idle speed, and in doing so there is often overcompensation that make the fluctuations even worse.

One way to reduce this is to reduce the amount of change this routine can excercise.
Less IAC movement is better than more.
Less degrees of spark correction (overshoot & undershoot) is better than more.

The fewer changes that the software is able to make, the smoother the idle will be.

The MAP (vacuum) reading will not be steady with this camshaft, and this will aggravate the idle fluctuation due to the changing fuel delivered.
If fueling values are changing from 35 to 45 to 50 back to 35, then your fueling is obviously not very steady and will cause idle problems.
Find out which load (VE/fueling) cells that you're hitting during idle. Scanning/datalogging will show you this.
You'll need to work on this area to smooth the fueling out.
Some people make all the numbers the same and others just reduce the difference in nearby cells.

This should get you started.

[01blkss]

These are all my opinions here:

The hardest part will be getting a decently smooth idle, so of course all the idle tables apply, including idle speed & spark, etc...

A cam like that generally moves more air through the system, but traps less in the cylinder... meaning lower cylinder pressure and more misfires.
To an extent, the idle speed can be raised to counter-act this, but keep in mind that simply raising the idle speed way up is actually the LAST thing you want to do.
When you use other means to smooth and strengthen the idle, you don't have to raise the idle up as much, and all is better this way.

Running closed loop will make fueling at idle very difficult to get right. Stoich according to your narrow-band O2's is not going to be what the engine wants at idle. A wideband is more helpful, but here still it's not 14.6:1 AFR that is going to give you the best/strongest idle with a cam like this.

Open-loop (OLSD) tunes are best suited for taming camshafts like this, because you're not fighting against a fueling correction system that's trying to get 14.6:1 AFR in the exhaust... without actually knowing the AFR in the chambers.

Generally the idle will want to be leaner than 14.6:1 on your wideband... maybe even as lean as 15.5:1 (every engine is a little different).
Generally the spark at idle will want to be increased by quite a lot.
Where 16* works well for a stock or small cam, this cam may want 26* or more at idle.

Even in open-loop, there is an idle control & learning routine that you'll have to work around. This routine isn't expecting big fluctuations in idle speed to be normally happening, so keep that in mind. The routine tries to compensate for fluctuations in idle speed, and in doing so there is often overcompensation that make the fluctuations even worse.

One way to reduce this is to reduce the amount of change this routine can excercise.
Less IAC movement is better than more.
Less degrees of spark correction (overshoot & undershoot) is better than more.

The fewer changes that the software is able to make, the smoother the idle will be.

The MAP (vacuum) reading will not be steady with this camshaft, and this will aggravate the idle fluctuation due to the changing fuel delivered.
If fueling values are changing from 35 to 45 to 50 back to 35, then your fueling is obviously not very steady and will cause idle problems.
Find out which load (VE/fueling) cells that you're hitting during idle. Scanning/datalogging will show you this.
You'll need to work on this area to smooth the fueling out.
Some people make all the numbers the same and others just reduce the difference in nearby cells.

This should get you started.

Awesome man i appreciate you taking the time to write that detailed response. the cam will probably going in in like 6 days so i will definately take a look at all the things that you mentioned and when i start getting closer but not perfect i will be able to post exact symptoms and results.

Thanks
Louie Panayi

[minytrker]

That was a pretty good reply. I just went through all that a few weeks ago after installing the MS3 (237/242 .603/.609) cam in my z06. I lucked out and had a very tuner here for the weekend that walked me through the whole process. With my cam and a really great custom os tune I still have stock idle and my car drives like stock still unless you get on it.

[01blkss]

That was a pretty good reply. I just went through all that a few weeks ago after installing the MS3 (237/242 .603/.609) cam in my z06. I lucked out and had a very tuner here for the weekend that walked me through the whole process. With my cam and a really great custom os tune I still have stock idle and my car drives like stock still unless you get on it.


awesome i am hoping for the same...and then if i ever want a real choppy idle i will just lower the idle a little:devil:

[minytrker]

you wont have to worry about lowering your idle it will be pretty choppy on its own

[oztracktuning]

add lots of idle timing, add running air flow and if possible tune a little rich - is my bet

[01blkss]

you wont have to worry about lowering your idle it will be pretty choppy on its own

lol i bet!


add lots of idle timing, add running air flow and if possible tune a little rich - is my bet

how to add running airflow? which parameter?

thanks guys

Louie

[oztracktuning]

G0108

Give it more than enough and then work downward. More than enough should be something like 11.000g/s - others may have a set of values for you.

Too much and it will pull itself along when not idling.

Too little and it will stall when coming to a stop.

Choose an idle of 1000rpm or so initially and work downward to as low as you can - aim to get to 800?

I have a much smaller cam - but it likes 30 deg advance at idle and likes to idle at 14.0:1 much better than at 14.629

[01blkss]

G0108

Give it more than enough and then work downward. More than enough should be something like 11.000g/s - others may have a set of values for you.

Too much and it will pull itself along when not idling.

Too little and it will stall when coming to a stop.

Choose an idle of 1000rpm or so initially and work downward to as low as you can - aim to get to 800?

I have a much smaller cam - but it likes 30 deg advance at idle and likes to idle at 14.0:1 much better than at 14.629


G0108 is A/C torque loss...

B0108 is max throttle for idle mode...


Did you possibly mean...B4307 Desired Air flow?

But thanks for the info...


And setting my idle would be...B4603 correct?
And then i want to set it for In gear AC off for an M6 correct?

thanks
Louie

[oztracktuning]

Desired air flow is right B4307
B4603 is idle speed

You may also need to bump up your VE table cells to higher values. at 400 and 800 Kpa and 1200 Kpa

Timing at around 0.20g/cylinder - above and below at the same rev ranges will need to be increased up toward 30 deg

[01blkss]

Desired air flow is right B4307
B4603 is idle speed

You may also need to bump up your VE table cells to higher values. at 400 and 800 Kpa and 1200 Kpa

Timing at around 0.20g/cylinder - above and below at the same rev ranges will need to be increased up toward 30 deg


ok cool...should i just allow the Auto VE tuning to take care of the VE tables...i have been doing that with great results thus far...

i have an LC-1 linked to my EFIlive.

Thanks for the help guys~
Louie

[oztracktuning]

Dont follow auto Ve with the idle cells. It can lead you astray with a big cam. Use it to get you roughly close and then look at pulse width and try to identify variations in pulse width that cause variations in afr. You want to trim the VE cells to get afrs to be more constant by cause and effect ie. pulse width causing afr variation.
Minimum variation in afr will make for a good idle

[white2001s10]

I also would not use auto-VE tuning for idle or anything around idle either.
It's not going to work correctly first of all.
Second, you're likely not going to get best idle at 14.6:1 AFR anyway.
The AFR you end up at will depend a lot on where your spark advance is set for idle.

[01blkss]

I also would not use auto-VE tuning for idle or anything around idle either.
It's not going to work correctly first of all.
Second, you're likely not going to get best idle at 14.6:1 AFR anyway.
The AFR you end up at will depend a lot on where your spark advance is set for idle.


interesting...

What is suggested for idle VE tuning? how should i go about setting it up? and what is a good idle AFR to use?

thanks
Louie

[white2001s10]

You use a wideband and datalogging.
It depends on what the engine responds best to.

You have to keep some things in mind and in perspective.
Your AFR on the NB or WBO2 isn't neccessarily the AFR of what is burning in the chamber. It also isn't always reflective of the amount of fuel the injectors (PW pulse width) are putting in.

For example you may see your AFR go up from 15.0 to 15.5 simply by increasing the spark advance from 20* to 25*. You're not putting in any more or less fuel than before, but the AFR in the exhaust has changed.
You may see the exact opposite as well.

The engine may end up liking to idle at 15.5 or 16.0 or 13.0:1 AFR on the wideband.
This is why a lot of folks run OLSD tunes with the monster camshafts. That way you can ignore the factory O2's.

[01blkss]

For example you may see your AFR go up from 15.0 to 15.5 simply by increasing the spark advance from 20* to 25*. You're not putting in any more or less fuel than before, but the AFR in the exhaust has changed.
You may see the exact opposite as well.



i have seen that and i was honestly very concerned with it...i was sure that i never changed any but spark...and i noticed that my WB02 was reading much differently...

I asked at ls1tech.com but apparently i should have asked here...

Thanks for the help i really do appreciate it. i cant wait for wednesday when the install is done and i can get to the tuning!

Louie

[white2001s10]

There's a post on LS1tech
http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=503274

where KVU talks a little about changing AFR.

The fuel, spark, AFR, and engine loading are all very inter-related functions.

In general, starting the spark earlier will burn up more fuel in the chamber.
There is simply more burn-time to combine the fuel & oxygen.

Loading the engine down will slow the piston speed. This also allows more burn-time and can show up on the wideband as a richer or leaner AFR. Sometimes you may notice during a street or track run that you are richer in first gear and leaner in high gear, or the other way around.

The reason why it's not always the same is probably due to misfires brought about by the lean or rich condition in the chambers.

As a common example, you can have misfires in the chamber and still see an average AFR of 14.6:1 at the wideband. If you unplug an injector or have a bad sparkplug the closed loop routine will compensate to bring the average AFR back.
Here you can see clearly that the AFR in the chamber where it counts doesn't neccessarily match the AFR in the exhaust.

Excessive camshaft duration and overlap will also throw the AFR off in the exhaust during lower RPM operation. The pressure differences during the overlap period can move either extra oxygen, and/or extra fuel into the exhaust instead of being trapped in the chamber to burn there.
The amounts of each can change as engine speed changes. Exhaust pressure pulses arriving back at the exhaust valve during overlap will change their timing with engine speed.

The result can be that to keep the AFR happy in the chamber where it counts, the AFR on your wideband may produce a very odd AFR vs RPM curve down low.

[superls1]

You use a wideband and datalogging.
It depends on what the engine responds best to.

You have to keep some things in mind and in perspective.
Your AFR on the NB or WBO2 isn't neccessarily the AFR of what is burning in the chamber. It also isn't always reflective of the amount of fuel the injectors (PW pulse width) are putting in.

For example you may see your AFR go up from 15.0 to 15.5 simply by increasing the spark advance from 20* to 25*. You're not putting in any more or less fuel than before, but the AFR in the exhaust has changed.
You may see the exact opposite as well.

The engine may end up liking to idle at 15.5 or 16.0 or 13.0:1 AFR on the wideband.
This is why a lot of folks run OLSD tunes with the monster camshafts. That way you can ignore the factory O2's.

Are you only talking about idle with a big cam? What are your thoughts on this:





First, realize that for combustion to occur, there needs to be fuel (such as hydrocarbon) and a source of oxygenates (i.e. oxygen and/or molecules or partial molecules which contain oxygen). In addition, there are diluents which are present in the mixture but do not contribute to the actual combustion (for example, nitrogen [N2]). This holds true for any combustion event, whether inside of an internal combustion engine or a small campfire.

Second, every atom is conserved in the combustion process, so it is possible to use exhaust gas constituents to reconstruct the amount of fuel and oxygenates before combustion. If this was not the case, then wideband oxygen sensors would not be capable of determining pre-combustion air/fuel ratio.

It is possible to express the combustion event as a balance of input reactants: fuel, oxygenates, and diluents (for example gasoline mixed with air) to the resultant combustion products (i.e. the composition of exhaust gas). Note that this is a chemical balance, meaning that every element needs to be accounted for in its molecular balance, before and after the combustion event. In other words, if we know the proportions of fuel, oxygenates, and diluents entering the engine, one can determine the species composition in the exhaust gas. And we can work backwards. If we know the species in the exhaust we can determine the ratios of air and fuel (both in molar quantity and molecular mass).


See this (http://www.megasquirt.info/PWC/LSU4.htm) for more detail.

Idle issues can be tough with big cams, I just wouldn't want people to think that WB's don't work. :)

[white2001s10]

Second, every atom is conserved in the combustion process, so it is possible to use exhaust gas constituents to reconstruct the amount of fuel and oxygenates before combustion. If this was not the case, then wideband oxygen sensors would not be capable of determining pre-combustion air/fuel ratio.

It is possible to express the combustion event as a balance of input reactants: fuel, oxygenates, and diluents (for example gasoline mixed with air) to the resultant combustion products (i.e. the composition of exhaust gas). Note that this is a chemical balance, meaning that every element needs to be accounted for in its molecular balance, before and after the combustion event. In other words, if we know the proportions of fuel, oxygenates, and diluents entering the engine, one can determine the species composition in the exhaust gas. And we can work backwards. If we know the species in the exhaust we can determine the ratios of air and fuel (both in molar quantity and molecular mass).


I don't agree at all. I think someone has innocently confused a wideband O2 sensor with a much more complex (and expensive) 5-gas analyzer.
A wideband doesn't do all of that... not at all.
A wideband O2 sensor is still measuring oxygen. It's still measuring the difference in oxygen inside the pipe as compared to outside the pipe.
The difference in a narrow-band and a wide-band is that narrowbands only have decent resolution very near stoich by design. The wideband has much greater resolution.

[superls1]

A wideband O2 sensor is still measuring oxygen. It's still measuring the difference in oxygen inside the pipe as compared to outside the pipe.


I agree. I probably 'read' too much into your posts, but it seemed like you were indicating WB's can't really be trusted or that the value displayed is somewhat irrelevant or arbitrary. I don't think that is the case. I think we have to be able to backwards compute the AFR (by comparing exhaust O2 vs atmospheric O2) otherwise we would have no need for O2's. Obviously NB's work otherwise manufacturers would not be using them to minimize emissions. You can capture injector pulsewidth and backwards compute AFR and compare that to your MAF readings as well. :)

[01blkss]

well i cant even get the cam to idle any advice to get it to idle?

Thanks
Louie...

or can anyon email me a program to get started ? i have a custom SD tune.

Thanks
Louie

[01blkss]

well i got it to idle...
40 degreesof timing and i am working on getting the idle AFR up to around 15.5 or so to try it out... was at 14.7 right now.

[01blkss]

ok guys i getting an idle that wants to die out...
i have noticed that while my idle drops and it wants todie out my MAP KPA goes from around 60s at idle near 90s while the idle starts to try to die out.

Any info on trying to fix this problem?

Thanks
Louie

[superls1]

If you have the commercial version, you can use the bi-directional controls and alter the timing while at idle. Thus, you can get a better 'feel' for what the engine wants. 40* might be too high. In my experience, if the engine continues to 'hunt' for idle then you have too much timing. I would also try an AFR richer than 14.7:1. The reason being is that with the overlap you might need some extra fuel just to ensure enough stays in the chamber for proper combustion. Have you modified the desired/running air flow? You need to post your mods, tune, and a scan.

[01blkss]

ok here goes...

01SSOLSD tune

Stepped longtube headers
ORY
Borlamouth
LID

TREX cam
242/248 610 615 lift 110 LSA
patriot gold duals
hardened pushrods
factory pump factory injectors
ngk tr55s
stock plug wires

my file is to big.. who can i send it to?
Ok i think that i linked them below... i donot have the commercial version.
Thanks
Louie

[01blkss]

i hope this works...

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/cam.tun

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/idledrive2.efi

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/idledrive4.efi

more changes... maybe good...maybe bad?
http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/183605-cam.tun

[white2001s10]

Are you working on the idle at full operating temp? or while it's still cold and warming up?

I'd triple check for vacuum leaks and check the plugs for fouling.

[01blkss]

it is at full operating temp..

Should my map sensor not read that high?

Thanks
Louie

[white2001s10]

it is at full operating temp..
Should my map sensor not read that high?
Thanks
Louie

That's normal when the engine is dying because of the misfires adding pressure to the intake manifold.

I think maybe your plugs got a little fouled from the beginning of the process, or the cold start.
40* is probably too high. Every combo is a little different but I'd guess the probable range to shoot for is 25* - 35* at idle.

Too much advance can make the idle less stable as well.
It'll just take some more time watching your scans and wideband to get a feel for what is happening with your idle.
Stay relaxed, take notes, spend some more time, and keep an eye on the plugs.

Once plugs are fouled I sandblast them and heat the tips with a propane torch to clean them back up for re-use. It's probably handy to have a couple of sets ready for the tuning process though. Cheapie plugs of stock heat range will do.

[01blkss]

That's normal when the engine is dying because of the misfires adding pressure to the intake manifold.

I think maybe your plugs got a little fouled from the beginning of the process, or the cold start.
40* is probably too high. Every combo is a little different but I'd guess the probable range to shoot for is 25* - 35* at idle.

Too much advance can make the idle less stable as well.
It'll just take some more time watching your scans and wideband to get a feel for what is happening with your idle.
Stay relaxed, take notes, spend some more time, and keep an eye on the plugs.

Once plugs are fouled I sandblast them and heat the tips with a propane torch to clean them back up for re-use. It's probably handy to have a couple of sets ready for the tuning process though. Cheapie plugs of stock heat range will do.


ok well i am sitting in the car right now datalogging with a lot more PIDs any suggestions onones to have?

The car runs good... except for taking off is horrible wants to die out and bucks, and while runnning it bucks some time.

As for the idle... it idles steady... My Gm.INJflow seems to stay pretty steady as well... onlyproblem is that every couple of seconds it wants to die out...then rpm drops to aroun 400 and then it comes back to life...

Any help with this? maybe you can take a look at the log and tell me what you think.
thanks
Louie

[01blkss]

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/Log_0008.efi

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/Log_0007.efi

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/cam_0000.efi

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/cam_0002sparkchanges_0000.tun

I cant seem to find any special incidence or change that causes the dip in idle...

Please take a look

Thanks
louie

[white2001s10]

I can't look at any of the files until tonight.

A fouled plug probably wouldn't show on your log.
Sometimes if the insulator gets wet from fuel the spark shorts down the insulator instead of arcing.

Another possibility with the high timing is that temp in the chamber and plug can increase to the point pre-ignition which is sort of what I'd expect. This wouldn't happen in the cold engine though, only at normal operating temp.

I'd try a few different things just to get in the ballpark where it will continue to idle. I'd probably start with 25* spark and a leaner than stoich AFR on the wideband & go from there.
Make sure the spark overshoot/undershoot has been reduced to a minimum.
I'd turn the stall-saver off, and start looking to see where in the range the IAC position is at idle. If it's too far open you might want to consider increasing the minimum air-rate of the throttle blade a little, but that's only if adjusting the other tables fails to get the IAC to respond properly.

[01blkss]

ok cool... i now have idle at 30 degrees... and it idles at around 14.7 AFR.

I also got the idle to 800 rpm consistantly. i am now at work so i cant play with it too much but iw ill consider everything that you have been telling me. Thanks!

Another this is i drove the car to work today and the two things that are really killing me is:
A. when coming to a stop the car idles at like 400 rpm. That SUX!

B. when taking off it bucks. as well as giving it throttle below like 1500 rpm.

What are teh best ways to fix these?

when i get home i will display the Log from the drive here and maybe you guys can take a little peek at it.

Also i will be stopping and picking up some NGK TR55s on the way home to try out.

Thank you guys very much.
Louie Panayi

[white2001s10]

Bucking and surging usually means lean.
You'll have to look around in the VE and main spark tables in the area this is happening.
Your main spark table may not mesh well with your new idle spark setting.

I'll try to look in there tonight, but it will be very late.

Your lower idle when coming to a stop may be a combination of things. There a tables which should make this pretty easy to remedy. Most people have the opposite problem of the idle going too high.

Take a look in this thread to get an idea.
http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=2489

[01blkss]

ok cool thanks for all the info... and i see a lot of things dealing with RAFIG. can i use that in OLSD? if so what is it?

Thanks
Louie

[white2001s10]

It's one of the many idle tables, and yes they all work in OLSD mode.

[01blkss]

ok cool i am now playing with RAFIG. seems to have helped a bit but i am continuing to do more with it.

I have also changed my commanded fule to be alil richer...and now i will autoVE tune the driving and see if that helps the bucking problem.

Also with the dieing when coming to a stop i believe i have to increase the Decay for the follower and the Cracker... but i have reduced them DRASTICALLY, i have also raised the airflow for these DRASTICALLY.

is there any way to map and fix.

Louie

[01blkss]

ok well Rafig has greatly increased my idle quality as well as the car now doesnt try to die out when driving in a parking lot and depressing the clutch which is great.

Another question that i have now is what is a good baseline for my timing to be at while cruising around part throttle?

Thanks
Louie

[01blkss]

well guys i tuned and tuned and tuned....

And the result thus far is...

Idles strong at 1000 rpm(i like it here better than 800) but 800 works. rarely to never surges at idle.

All the bucking is gone for the most part. Part throttle can definately use some work but for the most part it is leaps and bounds over 5hours ago.

I do still get bad bucking at right around 1500 rpm in 5th gear while cruising that i will need to look at.

The dropping idle while coming to a stop is gone. i am actually getting a little bit of a hanging idle now that i will of course need to look at.

Things that i would like to really fix is:

Dial everything in.

Find out what are good parameters for cruising Timing.

What is a good AFR for cruising Part throttle.

My idle is steady and strong... but it is a lot rougher than before. much more shaking and i would like to "smooth" that out a little.

Thanks for all of the help guys.

Louie

Here is the most recent tune...

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/richerdriving.tun

And the datalogging that took place right before the new tune.

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/drivehome.efi

[Doc]

You've got mail. :cheers:

[01blkss]

hey man thanks. i got it. i will definately try it out.

Thanks
Louie

What are the major changes that you made?

[Doc]

Use the compare feature to look at the differences. That is the folde button and then the red arrow. Once you have the two tunes, that is your current and some ideas I have thrown your way. Search, post more questions about the differences. I am not saying the file I sent you would and should be the be all end all for your car. Just some ideas, where you might not have thought about going. Do more searching about Maps, they are your friend. The more you learn about using the scan tool the more you will learn about the whole process. What kind of wideband do you have? Did you say earlier that you are just using the personal version? I would seriously consider the commercial version if I were you.

[01blkss]

Use the compare feature to look at the differences. That is the folde button and then the red arrow. Once you have the two tunes, that is your current and some ideas I have thrown your way. Search, post more questions about the differences. I am not saying the file I sent you would and should be the be all end all for your car. Just some ideas, where you might not have thought about going. Do more searching about Maps, they are your friend. The more you learn about using the scan tool the more you will learn about the whole process. What kind of wideband do you have? Did you say earlier that you are just using the personal version? I would seriously consider the commercial version if I were you.

yes i have the personal version.. how can i update?

I will definately take all your changes into consideration and possible use it as a bas where i will tweak... i know that the desired airflow that i have is a little higher than the one that you provided...

I will us Rafig to tune that, the only problem that i see with REFIG is that i can perform the RAFIG tuning and it will tell me to increase by .98... i will do so and repeat and then it will ask me to raise i again...

But i must admit by doing that my idle improved greatly.

Your spark tables have also changed quite a bit... are the figures that you provided for part throttle driving going to be a good figure to stick with, because i am unsure of what my values should be around there.

I like the commanded AFR tables that you provided. i will definately follow those unless i see a problem with it.

I have an LC-1 wideband.

Thanks
Louie

[01blkss]

Hey doc i am using your tune as a reference for the things that i am not too sure about, like PE mode, etc.

But as far as drivability and everythign my tune is so close to perfect(although it may not look it) that i really dont want to get off of it.

It idles perfect. just the way i want it.

It drives perfect just the way i want it... i am honestly so impressed with it it is rediculous... I only have one bad spot and that is at 1500-1700 rpm if i am just cruising with only enough throttle to keep current speed...it bucks right then. i need to fix that, and i will, thanks to everyones help on this board. i really appreciate all the help that i have been recieving from everyone it has been really great. I am now probobly going to let this thread die...i will go ahead and start new threads for the very specific points that i now want to cover.
a special thanks to
White2001S10
Flyer
Superls1
Doc

Thanks guys!
Louie

[superls1]

Glad to hear you got it worked out. It can take time. I am on the road, and have not had time to look at your files. I will do some looking, but probably not until tomorrow.

[01blkss]

Glad to hear you got it worked out. It can take time. I am on the road, and have not had time to look at your files. I will do some looking, but probably not until tomorrow.

Ok cool it is not a problem...

i appreciate what everyone has done for me its been great. I took it out tonight(i went to go see the Davinci code) The car acted very well...a couple of little things that i need to address, but for the most part i am thoroughly impressed.

Here is the newest tune/log.

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/Log_0010.efi

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/richerdriving_TC_TF.tun


thanks again,
Louie

[bK]

Ok cool it is not a problem...

i appreciate what everyone has done for me its been great. I took it out tonight(i went to go see the Davinci code) The car acted very well...a couple of little things that i need to address, but for the most part i am thoroughly impressed.

Here is the newest tune/log.

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/Log_0010.efi

http://h1.ripway.com/01blkss/richerdriving_TC_TF.tun


thanks again,
Louie
Hi Louie,

Would really like to see what you've done with your tune, but when I click on your files I get a web page stating:
The user folder you've requested could not be found. Please check the URL and try again.
Cheers,
bK

[joecar]

Hi Louie,

Would really like to see what you've done with your tune, but when I click on your files I get a web page stating:
Cheers,
bK
Ditto.

[Chris81]

I'd like to see it as well.