Low speed, full lock on steering, stalls!

[ringram]

Bloody aftermarket cams, who needs em!

Ok well after 5 days tuning Ive dialed my little cam in fairly well. Power is starting to come on now, when I first got it, there wasnt that much over stock.

Anyway, Ive set idle to 750rpm, which I know is kinda low. But I like it there, my question is when turning into the driveway, or doing 3-point turns etc, when the steering is on full lock, the mother stalls.

Now as far as I can see I can either up the idle speed so that the steering doesnt pull the rpm down as much or 2, ask you nice people what other options there are to prevent stalling on full lock at idle.

Ive set my cracker settings so that 750 idle works well the rest of the time, is my only option a higher idle? 850 or something? Or should I do my 3 point turns on 3/4 throttle and steer with the rear tyres instead?

[ringram]

Ok, so I found a table Tordne mentioned (but I couldnt find at the time) which was also noted on ls1tech and evil hpt.
B4338 and B4339 Ill be messing with these chaps tomorrow on the way to Germany to the Ring!

[SSpdDmon]

800rpm is nice... ;)

[carneb]

I had the same problem after installing my cam. Took it back to the tuner and they adjusted B4332 Rolling desired idle speed to 1200rpm. I don't know if this is the best way to fix it but it works! No more stalling.

[dfe1]

Check your throttle position and IAC counts. If the IAC is open too far, it doesn't have enough travel left to prevent a stall when you apply the load from the power steering- especially at full lock. When you crank the steering hard, the hydraulic pump puts a lot more load on the engine than you might think. It can even be a problem with a stock or mild cam. There are obviously other options, but if it's related to throttle opening and IAC at idle, that's the best place to correct it.

[Tordne]

I had the same problem after installing my cam. Took it back to the tuner and they adjusted B4332 Rolling desired idle speed to 1200rpm. I don't know if this is the best way to fix it but it works! No more stalling.

Is your car an auto? I playd with this on M6 and it seemed to do nothing.

[oztracktuning]

Rolling idle and desired airflow. Make sure desired airflow at that temp is slightly more than enough. Dont let it learn too far. Up the idle timing - this will give more vacuum to a point. Mine was helped with a combination of these things.

[carneb]

Is your car an auto? I playd with this on M6 and it seemed to do nothing.

No it's an M6.

The problem I had was pulling into my driveway. My place has a rolled curb instead of normal curb with layback so it's a big rise. Everytime I would pull into the driveway the kickback from the front wheels hitting the curb caused the engine to die. I always roll (clutch in) the front wheels up over the curb and the extra revs while rolling solved the problem.

[bK]

Ok, so I found a table Tordne mentioned (but I couldnt find at the time) which was also noted on ls1tech and evil hpt.
B4338 and B4339 Ill be messing with these chaps tomorrow on the way to Germany to the Ring!

Did you find time to try these settings out? What settings did you find that helped you?

Cheers,
bK

[Kris]

I had this problem really bad on my car (I didn't even have to be at full lock, just a slight turn of the wheel was enough to bog it down and stall it out)

After doing some logging I found that when putting the little bit of extra load on the motor with the steering, it would drop the VE table into an area that was way out of wack (in my case 80+ kpa in the 400 & 800 rpm cells). I got them kicked up to stoich and everything has been good since.

[Highlander]

Revisit... updates to this? how did this get solved?

[The Alchemist]

Rolling idle and desired airflow. Make sure desired airflow at that temp is slightly more than enough. Dont let it learn too far. Up the idle timing - this will give more vacuum to a point. Mine was helped with a combination of these things.

I use the "slightly more than required" IAC counts
(RAFPIG process ) AND look at your timing ...usually your throttle is closed so you are in "BASE timing in gear" at say 0.24 > 0.28 when using the power steering. Make sure your timing here is around 23 to 25 degs at 400 to 1200 rpm .
Therfore your base plus your timing over/under at idle will maintain the engine under the temporary load of the Power steering.
Also make sure that your timing at your true idle cell, ie stationary, say 0.18 IS at what the engine wants for a good idle (usually between 18 to 22 for a mild cam).
Cheers,
Mike

[Highlander]

Well... I have the timing set right and there is no way the car will not stall. I am starting to believe this is totally related to excessive porting on the intake manifold.

I am in the search to solve this. A/F is perfect... pretty much everything is where it should be.

Any help is appreciated.

TC has no effect. Even worse. if I enable throttle cracker, often times when I get to 0MPH that the TC decays 100% it will stall.... So i've decided to pretty much eliminate TC as much as possible.