01 TA rebuilt engine with different mods + T56 swap.

[Nastybuzzard]

So I have only tinkered with efi live in the past changing things here and there with my old auto tune and a few things for my stuff I have ls swapped. I've never had to tune for a cam change. However, that is where I now am.

My engine blew up last October, somehow cylinder 6 filled with water and it detonated and completely trashed the engine on start up, hole in cylinder and piece of rod stuck into my Asa cam.

I decided not to put it back together until I had everything for t56 swap bc it is a driver and never could really appreciate the 3800 stall.

Anyways, another engine was built for it.

I modified a few tables to get it to start up cold and idle decent. When I try to start at normal temp or warm it never fires off. If I start it somewhat warm it will fire up around 400rpm and then work its way to 950 which is where I have it set. I'd like to lower the idle rpm some too.

I had to copy in a 01 Camaro ls1/t56 tune initially bc of Trans swap, I modified the desired airflow to +2 in all cells, change idle to 950, gears to 3.73, removed cat mil, set 0-400 rpm timing to 26deg and 400-800 to 22deg.

I can add the file here if anyone is interested. Any help would be appreciated been dying to drive her again after she's been down so long, but I'm no professional tuner either. I don't think it will take much to make it nice and drive able. I'll be going to dyno for a full tune later when my money tree starts sprouting again. Again I just love to drive the car and with the family just never even get to go to the track anymore. Just want my 2 hour round trip to work fun again!

01 ls1
3.902 forged Pistons
Cam 226/230 .560/.545 112+2
243 heads with yellow springs
Ls2 timing chain
Long tubes
Off road y
Hooker catback
No cats or rear 02s
3.73
Melling 10295 pump
41-110 ac delco with MSD wires
Ls7 lifters
180 degrees thermostat
Ls7 clutch
Pro 5.0 shifter

[joecar]

Please post .ctz tune file here.

With that cam your engine should be able to start right up on the stock F-car tune.

[Nastybuzzard]

Please post .ctz tune file here.

With that cam your engine should be able to start right up on the stock F-car tune.

I added the file to my original post. I thought it would start up and run somewhat on the stock tune as well but wasn't having much luck. I definitely appreciate you taking a look at it!

[joecar]

2001 Chevrolet Camaro Coupe Manual LS1 5.7 Litre (12202088)_0000 MY01TA.ctz (https://forum.efilive.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=19610&d=1462880066)

That tune has a lot of changes compared to stock... flash in a stock 2001 Camaro M6 tune.

[Nastybuzzard]

A lot? I only changed a few things to it that I listed above. Gear ratio, timing for 0-400rpm, timing for 400-800, base idle rpm, modified desired airflow to +2 in each cell and removed the MILs for cat converter. Do you see anything else?

I can send you the stock Camaro tune that was given to me initially.

[joecar]

Ah, sorry, my mistake, I was comparing to stock A4 file...

[Nastybuzzard]

Well that makes sense, at first I was worried that my "stock" file was not so stock after all.

[joecar]

Ok, so it's something outside the tune...

what injectors do you have...?
is you FPR MAP-referenced or un-referenced...?
what is measured rail pressure (if you have MAP-referenced FPR, remove reference hose during measurement)...?

[joecar]

Well that makes sense, at first I was worried that my "stock" file was not so stock after all.I have a bunch of files here, and not enough coffee...

I have gotten many cam/heads engines to start on the stock file provided the injector tables are correct.

I would try the NGK TR55, TR5 or TR6 spark plugs (they are cheap and always work for me)(I don't like the tiny electrode you see on platinums/irridiums).

[Nastybuzzard]

You really think that is the case?

Injectors are stock LS1/LS6 injectors (2001 Trans Am.) 28.8s?

So far I have only started the engine after installation 3x successfully. 2x it wouldn't fire off when it was warm, just kept on spinning.

I haven't messed with injector tables but pretty sure they are around 14.7:1 "ish." I haven't messed with injector tables.

I would prefer not to change plugs, these ac delcos are brand new and not cheap and not easily changed out, especially #8.

Unfortunately, the car is at my friends shop, where he has a lift, so I can't check on the FPR.

I had contacted a few "professionals" as in they sell base tunes and do dyno and they had suggestions but all use HPtuners so the stuff they were asking me to change I could not easily find, such as changing spark retard and advance as well as changing AFR at certain temperatures. They have all offered to sell me based tunes for $300ish though! Which I do not have the $ for currently.

It seems to idle decent and will stumble itself to idle if just barely warm. I have a couple videos if you would like to see them of it firing up.

[joecar]

Yes, please post links to vids.

[Nastybuzzard]

Here they are, nothing fancy. Just videos in photobucket.


http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd506/the_voice_within_2005/97%20z28/th_5FE169B0-AD04-47B3-8E71-08CCFB7E08CF_zpsvjatcy8z.jpg (http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd506/the_voice_within_2005/97%20z28/5FE169B0-AD04-47B3-8E71-08CCFB7E08CF_zpsvjatcy8z.mp4)

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd506/the_voice_within_2005/97%20z28/th_E2F9B6EF-64FD-478B-8608-64DF7580C1EB_zpshwjga4t5.jpg (http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd506/the_voice_within_2005/97%20z28/E2F9B6EF-64FD-478B-8608-64DF7580C1EB_zpshwjga4t5.mp4)

[Nastybuzzard]

I tried but I think they have to be approved some how.

[joecar]

ok, I approved them.

( now I have to find a laptop with audio that works :doh2: )

[Nastybuzzard]

Thank you, haha very nice. Ugh I suck with the double postings. Yeah seem to idle ok maybe felt a slight misfire. Idle is set to 950 rpms though, I really want that to be worked down as low as safely possible.

[joecar]

No worries, I deleted the duplicate.

[Nastybuzzard]

Any advice on the tune?

[joecar]

Do this:
- measure rail pressure.
- correct the VE table.


Do you have a wideband...?

[Nastybuzzard]

Will do.

Unfortunately, no. Never needed one before. I plan to buy one later down the road when I have the extra $ for it.

[Nastybuzzard]

My buddy ordered us a wideband, should be here tomorrow. LC-2 is the version he got. He is going to try and setup all the PIDs necessary Friday night or Saturday morning. Then tune it well enough for a 45 min or so drive to record everything. Fingers crossed.

[joecar]

FSV2 has ability to read serial comms from LC-2.

[Nastybuzzard]

That's what I was thinking. Good to know. Hoping we can get it all squared away. Killing me not being able to drive it with such beautiful weather we have been having.

[joecar]

You can cheat a little... with CL/trims enabled, you can observe the LTFT's during closed loop, and then apply their correction to MAF and/or VE tables (with the other table disabled), and extrapolate up... but be careful, this is not safe for your engine outside of CL.

[Nastybuzzard]

Thank you for that! Yeah we will just have to be super careful. I'd hate to hurt this expensive (to me) ass setup.

[Nastybuzzard]

Put it in closed loop and drove around for about an hour logging. Came back and smoothed out VE tables and then put it back to normal as well as changed idle down to 850. Running pretty well, definitely driveable. I am having a few issues of it not liking me to drive around in town, like If I am barely trying to accelerate around 40 in 4th or so it will buck unless I have certain amount of throttle pressed.

[Nastybuzzard]

19625

Here is my updated tune. May be still rough around the edges but it does drive, just have a small issue trying to put around town. If I don't give it enough throttle it tries to buck a tad.

[joecar]

Post some logs from that tune (post #26) of the bucking, include the pid for IAC counts.

[Nastybuzzard]

Ok, won't have access to wideband again until Saturday so that will probably be the next time I log and drive.

[Nastybuzzard]

So get this, been trying to get my AC to work properly. I found a vacuum line that wasn't plugged into rear of intake. Plugged it up and now the dang car won't idle! Also, plugging in the vacuum line didn't fix my ac problem but still it should be plugged in. So I guess we tuned with a vacuum leak.. Poop.

[joecar]

So get this, been trying to get my AC to work properly. I found a vacuum line that wasn't plugged into rear of intake. Plugged it up and now the dang car won't idle! Also, plugging in the vacuum line didn't fix my ac problem but still it should be plugged in. So I guess we tuned with a vacuum leak.. Poop.Too bad... you'll get more free practice :)

[Nastybuzzard]

Fixed rear main, plugged all vacuum lines with caps just so we don't tune again with a vacuum leak, went for a drive while recording. Came back did VE's and updated tune. I went to drive it home and got about 5 miles away and started running like crap, misfiring and throwing codes and stuff. Mostly misfiring codes and o2 sensor codes. It just got progressively worse. I had to load back in our calc.vet tune that we record with for tuning just to make it driveable again and that even took some time, at first it was stumbling then back fired and ran fine. Still throwing P1135 code though and sometimes P1133. Weird, but stumped, something must be up with my 02 sensors, one I just put on 2 weeks again and one I replaced last time I had the car running.

[joecar]

Log files of it running bad...?

See how it runs with NBO2's disconnected.

[Nastybuzzard]

NB02? Narrow band o2 sensors?

May sound odd but I am afraid to drive it that way to log plus, I have issues getting the dang flash scan v2 to record log so would have to haul laptop. I mean I am afraid to drive it over 5 minutes like that, feels like it is only running on 2 cylinders unless I go WOT.

[joecar]

Yes, front narrowbands... if you don't want to disconnect them from the harness, then disable CL/trimming in the tune... the idea is to show that they are the problem and without them the engine runs ok.

Might have to work thru the troubleshooting chart for those DTC's, look at gearchatter.com (http://www.gearchatter.com).




We'll have to get your V2 setup for BBL... see here: Setting-up-a-FSV2-from-scratch (https://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?20699-Setting-up-a-FSV2-from-scratch)

[Nastybuzzard]

Yeah it runs fun in my "test" tune, but I don't then we cut them off in that tune just turn the thing from 400 to 4000 and change their values all to 450. Still throws p1135 code there but drives fine.

I have 2 spare 02 sensors I may swap in to try as well. I thought about ordering the corvette rears to eliminate the extensions I have for long tubes plus I heard their refresh rate is faster.


I'll look into those links. I just hate looking at that beautiful and expensive brick of a Trans am while I drive away in my truck. I want to drive it so bad!

[joecar]

I know what you mean... my TA has been held up by a bunch of needed suspension and heads/cam work on which I am progressing too slowly for reasons outside my control.

[Nastybuzzard]

So I repleced the passenger side o2 sensor and its running a lot better. Seems like that was my problem. Put the latest tune on there and drove for about 15 min with no issues and only codes were P1133 and P1135 but i have longtubes so those are fine.

I did a little data logging, I haven't reset what logs since we did our ve tables but so far only thing we really have changed is VE tables and a few other tidbits.

check it out to see if we can get it driving better?

[joecar]

You bank1 O2 (driver) voltage cycles in the correct range, while your bank 2 (passenger) voltage cycles in a reduced range...

which O2 sensor did you replace (passenger)...?

[Nastybuzzard]

I replaced the bank2 (passenger 02) with a used one I had spare. It threw a P0155 code which is why I replaced it. The sensor was barely a year old but less than 10k miles on it. The bank 1 (drivers side) is brand new delco sensor.

I am not getting any O2 codes though yet and it is running pretty good. I considered getting the vette rear ones that supposedly switch faster. Bosch 13111s? I think. I don't want to just throw money though I am saving up for dyno tune.

[Nastybuzzard]

Any tips on the tune? Only real issue it has now is sometimes it will try to die when I press in the clutch. Mostly if I am putting around a lot or something it will try and die. It can catch itself sometimes to keep from dying completely or I catch it and hit the throttle. Also, I have pressed the clutch in to come to a stop sign and it almost die. Like it is dumping fuel or something. I was logging all this but when I got home to stop the recording and save it, it didn't give me the option to save. When I hit the button again to save it only saved like 10 sec of it running.

[Nastybuzzard]

What do I do to the tune to make the AC work correctly? Like when I let off throttle or press clutch in with AC on the car just dies. It idles down and shuts off. Its been 100+ temps here and even though it only blows on my feet and defrost (still cant figure out whats messed up, checked everything.) it definitely helps to stay cool.

[S Phinney]

Have you checked the freon levels? With the blower not blowing out the ac vent it sounds like a blend door motor no working properly.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

[Nastybuzzard]

The ac blows perfectly ice cold just like it did before engine died. I just find it weird that the control unit or blend door died while sitting between engine changes but possible I suppose. I have checked all the vacuum lines and all seem fine. I guess first step is getting it to work and not make the car die when I press the clutch in.