Looking for a bit of assistance with H/C/I LS7

[SilverbulletC6Z]

Hey I just installed a bunch of mods on my 2008 C6 Z06 that I purchased about two months ago with 35k miles. Prior to modding the car it came with an Airaid Synthamax air intake and it had the muffler mod done to it.

I have installed the following over the last week;

MSD airforce intake manifold
BTR Stage 3 Camshaft
ARH (1 7/8th) long tube headers and X pipe with cats
AHP heads milled .030" with hardened PM guides
C5R timing chain

For tuning I have EFI Live V2 with an innovate LC2 wideband, I have adjusted the idle for the car to 900rpm to start and was advised to edit "min airflow tables" but I believe that is for HPtuners so I am a bit unsure of where to start with EFI live to get the car running in the right direction. I took it out last night for 30 minutes to do a bit of data logging and after the 30 minutes the only codes thrown were P0171 and P0174 which correspond to system too lean for both banks. I have since filled up the tank with 94 octane.

I am planning on following the EFI live AutoVE tutorial and saw another forum post regarding a similar LS7 setup and will follow the advice given there as well. I have included the tune I pulled off the car prior to modding it, I am unsure if this is a stock tune as it could have been altered in the past by a previous owner.

If anyone has any advice it is really appreciated, thank you

[joecar]

Post your tune file.

[SilverbulletC6Z]

My apologies, included are the stock tune file that I pulled from the car which may not be the stock tune at all. Also included is a log of the car from today with the wideband analog voltage from the LC2.

I have modified a tune to idle at 900 rpm, not show misfires and increase open loop commanded fuel by %5 in the higher intake valve temperature area where the car should normally be operating. It seems to be running spark advance valves of between 12-15 degrees when going WOT or atleast revving up into the 4-5 range. This is also during the fuel status "OL-Drive"

I have also been getting some crank sensor codes P0336 when starting hot, if I don't pedal the gas to get it started while pressing the start button it will throw that P0336 code and the cars tachometer drops to dead zero and the car spudders like crazy. If I just stop the car, restart and properly pedal the gas pedal while hitting the start button I can get it to turn over quickly and not throw codes, after which the car drives fine for the untuned condition it is in minus the 5% fuel and higher idle.

[rabrooks]

subscribed, in it to see where it goes.

[SilverbulletC6Z]

So far I have followed swingtans VVE tutorial that Joecar references in an earlier post to someone with a similar setup. This tutorial was great, after setting everything up and working across all of the softwares I had no issue pasting and multiplying my ben over the existing open virtual VE table.

Once I had my table with all of the spikes I manually smoothed and adjusted the table until it resembles what is in this current tune that I will attach. I have only done four data logging runs so far, the tune keeps getting closer and closer to accurate AFR levels where commanded. I have adjusted the high and low octane spark tables to raise spark advance levels to reach a level where I begin to get knock reduction. I have it mostly adjusted to 27 degrees and haven't had more than a 0.3 degree KR but that was very inconsistent, it seems to always run fine with the 27 degrees and I haven't seen any KR for the majority of WOT pulls.

I don't know if this is the appropriate way to go about adjusting spark levels but from what I read what to advance until KR and back off, not sure if this is the best way to go about it for EFIlive but so far the car has been running amazingly and has been driving like a beast.

I am going to re-enable DFCO after a few more good data logging runs and then just run a speed density tune. If anyone has any advice based off the posted tune please feel free to let me know what I am doing right/wrong.

[Highlander]

There is a big thread covering idle basics here. It is very well laid out.

If you go to Idle-Correction-Minimum Idle Airflow those are your main idle airflow tables.
See what your mass air is measuring at idle

if you mass air is 10g/s and your fuel trims are +10% that means your engine is getting roughly 11g/s through the throttle body and this should be your minimum idle airflow.
leave your idle timing stock and see how it is correcting. If your timing is higher than the table you need more air. if its lower you need less air.

This is a very common basic way of correctly adjusting your throttle body airflow.

[joecar]

I would subtract 1 or 2 degrees from the 27 degrees

you would be giving up very little torque (if any) and your engine would be safe.

[joecar]

Post some logs.