Help with service engine light

[12sec.5.3]

I'm having trouble tracking down this problem. Service engine light comes on and flashes ONLY when driving, when I slow down to an idle it goes off. I use the EFI Live scanner to try and pull the code but nothing comes up....I've even tried to pull it while driving and still nothing. Along with the annoying light flashing on my dash, this prevents my converter from locking up into OD. While driving I clear the code-the converter locks in and the light goes off...A few seconds later the converter unlocks and the light comes back on. If anyone can help figure this out I'd greatly appreciate it.

[joecar]

When the MIL flashes it is indicating misfires detected...

log the pid GM.MFTOTAL.



While driving I clear the code-the converter locks in and the light goes off...

Which code are you clearing...?

[12sec.5.3]

None in particular. Just clicking to clear all codes while driving and it clears for a few seconds and allows the converter to lock up. I'll try to log the misfires and see what happens from there.

[joecar]

Also log GM.TSTATE09 and GM.TSTATE10, these will show the reason for TCC unlocking.

[12sec.5.3]

I went for a drive and I'm getting misfires from a few cylinders but one in particular sticks out worse than the rest. I guess it's time for new coils or an injector clean. Already have brand new plugs and wires.

[12sec.5.3]

Thanks Joe! Looks like TSTATE10 shows I'm not locking up due to misfire. I should be good to go once I get this taken care of.

[12sec.5.3]

I just ruled out the coil by swapping it with the coil from the #1 cylinder and the misfire is still on #6

[12sec.5.3]

So I ordered a "new" set of 42 lb marine injectors off of a store on ebay for $80 compared to the $509 I found on amazon. The misfires are down to a minimum and the service engine light is on no more....Also the torque converter is locking up now so mission accomplished there. BUT of course, another problem. I replaced the injectors with the same exact 42 lb marine injectors I took out. My truck ran fine at idle and WOT but now I have an extremely lean condition. Truck hardly wants to sit and idle at all. I can play with the pedal and get it to clean up but still goes completely lean and detonates when giving it decent throttle. I've added up to 15% more to my VE table (not sure if I should've or not) and it still didn't fix the issue. Only thing I can think of is when I pulled the injectors from the rail the fuel poured out onto the top of the intake and most likely into some of the cylinders as well. Maybe fouled out some of the plugs??? Any input...thoughts? ideas?

[joecar]

If you leave out the spark plugs overnight, the fuel in the cylinders will evaporate;
some fuel will filter past the piston rings into the oil;
some fuel might be pooled inside the intake manifold, this would evaporate on its own over time, but while it's still pooled it will most likely affect idle.

[12sec.5.3]

To give you an update I got this figured out. Result was one bad injector so after wasting money and time (and almost damaging my engine with cheap injectors) I ordered a Delphi replacement. Some misfires are still detected but they are minimal. The light is off and the converter is locking in a little better though it still needs tuning.

I'm trying to get my speedometer dialed in to get my shift points right, first. As of now I can't even get it to make a wot 1-2 shift and I have the rpm set point at low as 5700. I need to go make a few logs to see what's going on. For some reason I can't select some pid's that I need to. How do I get the "x" off of it so I can select it?

[joecar]

Is VSS show correct values...?

Set WOT 1->2 RPM to 4800 rpm, and inch it up from there.

Post tune file so I can look at shift tables.


On those pids, go rightclick->More Info and see what other pids they mention... select those also (post screenshots).

[12sec.5.3]

You'll have to show me about this screen shot stuff first lol. VSS values seem to be correct but I haven't confirmed that with GPS or anything. I can def change to 4800 and go from there though. I was trying to see if it was commanding the shift but possibly wasn't sending enough pressure to engage the shift at that high of rpm.

[12sec.5.3]

I'll have to get my hands on a hand held GPS but I was following another vehicle that the cruise was set at 60mph and my speedometer was showing 64 to keep up. My gear ratio is set correctly to 3.90 and my tire size and OD is set correctly as well. Also I adjusted my shift points to 5000 1-2 which it was still hitting the rev limiter at 6700 and also 2-3 is hitting the limiter but I didn't bring that one down yet. I'll prob set it to 5500ish and try that when I get more time. I'd really like to rule out anything possibly wrong with the tranny also. I can't manually hold 1st gear anymore which I thought you helped me fix but obviously it's still not. Also if I hold first until 4k or so rpm and hit wot and shift manually to 2nd immediately to let the pcm shift, it will sit on the rev limiter until I let off then act like it's in Neutral and just free rev until I coast for a few seconds then it grabs second and goes. But 2nd gear doesn't slip. It's the weirdest thing. Log files and current tune posted for you to take a look.

[joecar]

Hitting the limiter so easily is a symptom of slippage...

what does the ATF look/smell like, this will tell you more.

[joecar]

Try setting D0913 and D0914 to 255 mph.

[12sec.5.3]

ATF looks cherry. The whole trans is fresh and doesn't even have but maybe 100 miles on it. I just finished the 4l80 swap so I sure hope it isn't slipping that easily, I'm only putting about 420hp to the wheels last time I dyno'd. Might be a tiny bit more now with new headers.

[joecar]

Install a pressure gauge on the line tap on the side of the trans, observe the gauge as you drive.

In the meantime, let me further look at your shift tables.

[12sec.5.3]

That sounds like it'll be my next step. Thanks Joe

[joecar]

Drop these pids:
GM.GEARCURR
GM.GEARCOM
GM.SHIFT12
GM.SHIFT23

Add these pids:
GM.SHIFTLAST
GM.TCCMODE
GM.TCCSLIP

Keep GM.GEAR and GM.TFMPRS and the others...

you can drop SAE.FUELSYS

[joecar]

0. D1206 should be set to 95%, and D1207 to 85%.

1. Set tables D0960,1,2 "Throttle Kickdown" to 100% everywhere.

2. Un-cross the Part Throttle Upshift/Downshift tables (they are not allowed to cross), see attached pic...

22003

simply: move 3->2 above 1->2, and move 4->3above 2->3.

3. Copy the WOT MPH shift points from the 100% cells in the PT Upshift/Downshift tables
->( make sure that none of the upshift MPH's cause redline/limiter RPM to be exceeded )

4. Set WOT RPM shift points to 4500 rpm.


Also:
a. some of the standing pressure tables can be edited.
b. the pressure shift tables can be extended up to 96 psi.

[joecar]

I'm working on un-crossing your PT shift tables... I'll have something ready later today.

[12sec.5.3]

Great, Thanks for your input! I've included the updated tune file with changes I've made based on some of your suggestions.

[12sec.5.3]

Here's the log file with new tune and requested PID slection. I did change the wot mph and pt throttle in the 100% cells to 34 mph to match the 4500 rpm shift point.