lc-1 help plz.

[killaz]

Ok so. I have the yellow wire in terminal C. Green and white are in terminal D. and brown wire in E. I am using a cigret liter plug for the power, witch i have the red wire hoked too. I have the Blue wire hooked to the ground of the Cigret lighter. I had to get an addapter hookup for the serial port to the back of the laptop. And i Get please connect the device to a serial port and turn it on. Any ideas?

[eboggs_jkvl]

Not to be a wise ass and I'm not the world's greatest electrician but...
Green & white are to go to chassis ground. Another wire from where the green & white are grounded should then come to "D" of the plug. Yellow and brown can go to either C or E if you are running 2 wideband sensors. I'm only using 1 sensor and my yellow is hooked to "E" EXT AD1

Blue goes to a separate chassis ground different than the green and white location and the red goes to a switched source of voltage.

Is that how you have it wired? Is the cigarette lighter switched or a full time hot lead?

I don't think the green and white go to the "D" of the plug, but I could be wrong.

Elmer

[killaz]

it is a switch.

[eboggs_jkvl]

it is a switch.

Ok, how about the rest of the wires?

Elmer

[joecar]

It may be best to not ground the green or white wires to chassis or to any other grounds;
connect either of them directly to pin D on the FlashScan;

I found my LC-1 works best like this.

showpost.php?p=20320&postcount=67 (http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.php?p=20320&postcount=67)

[ringram]

LC1 USB serial adapters are a little messy. Check with efilive scanner.
I had to enter the lc1 monitoring software first, that allowed me to chose the serial port. I then could use the calibration software to see the LC1. I couldnt just go straight to calibration.

Anyway, you dont need to do anything to it as its setup to work out of the box with efilive, you can just check your wiring and start scanning with it, see if it semi tracks the narrow band, or gives 14.7:1 in closed loop.

[killaz]

how do i enter the lc1 monitoring software in the scan tol? can anyone tell me how they have there lc1 wired in to the black box? I still got nothing? Any ideas?

[Doc]

I found this to be very helpful.

http://68.178.219.18/tutorials/LC-1%20Installation%20Tutorial.pdf

[eboggs_jkvl]

Green white go to D? Ok, then this instruction from the LC-1 Installation Tutorial from the EFILive board (Same PDF that Doc shows in the reply above this) is not correct?

I'm trying to wire my crap up and I followed these instructions exactly. If they are wrong, then they shouldn't be showing. If I need to go back in and rewire this crap again, I will be frustrated and slightly miffed.

Where is the ground being picked up?

The instructions say 2 instances of chassis ground. Green & White and a separate location away from the G&W for the heater ground blue wire.

The instructions explicitly then show a Black wire FROM the G&W ground location to terminal D.

The attachment is page 5 of the instructions. On page 4 of the same instructions that Doc linked to, shows this:

1. LC-1 Analog out:
Connect the LC-1 yellow to either the c or e location of the flashscan external connector. C or E are on the outside locations of the three-wire connector

2.Signal Ground
Connect from ther LC-1 Green and White wire's ground connection to the D location of the EFILive External connector. D is in the middle of the 3-wire connector.

3. System Ground:
The LC-1 Blue Wire should be connected to a shassis ground separate from the signal location.


3. is the top line of text in my attachment.







Elmer:confused:

[joecar]

Where is the ground being picked up?

The instructions say 2 instances of chassis ground. Green & White and a separate location away from the G&W for the heater ground blue wire.

The instructions explicitly then show a Black wire FROM the G&W ground location to terminal D.
At the bottom of picture 7 is says:
Note: The green wire used in Picture 7 is connected to Yellow wire “Analog Out 1” from LC-1 and is connected to the FlashScan Pin E {EXT.AD1}. The black wire is connected to same Signal ground location as the LC-1 (Green, White wire) and is connected to the FlashScan Pin D “Common Analog Ground”. Jason [the writer] used a black wire to connect the LC-1 green/white to FlashScan pin D.

As for ground (battery negative), this is where the LC-1 blue wire goes; it not only is ground for the heater circuit, but it also is ground the the LC-1 power circuit.

[joecar]

I updated my previous link showpost.php?p=20320&postcount=67 (http://forum.efilive.com/showpost.php?p=20320&postcount=67) to show where the FlashScan fits in.

If your LC-1 is functioning correctly, then wiring it this way is very simple and will work
(ignore the connectors and just wire direct without connectors to get it working;
connect LC-1 red and blue directly to battery temporarily just to get it working;
do not leave it connected to the battery like this, it will drain it).

Before I installed mine, I bench wired it as follows:
LC-1 red to battery positive
LC-1 blue to battery negative
LC-1 brown or yellow to FlashScan D or E
LC-1 green or white to FlashScan D

I connected the serial link and terminator, and verified the voltage I programmed in was comming out
(measured using DMM and EFILive software).

I also wired the LED and pushbutton together in parallel, and connected all this as follows:
LC-1 black to LED anode
LC-1 white to LED cathode

I then verified that the LED flashed/lit as specified, and that the pushbutton initiated calibration.

In my final installation my LC-1 red and blue are connected to power and ground via the NBO2 connector;
I was able to avoid chassis ground altogether.

If your LC-1 fails the bench programming test, then it could be defective (Innovate had a bad batch back then);

If you ever shorted the brown or yellow wires to any other wires or to ground,
then your LC-1 is broken and will fail the bench programming test;

do not try to flash the LC-1 firmware and this is very likely to break the LC-1.

[eboggs_jkvl]

Well, I probably now have blown up the LC connector and wasted my money. I still read the sentence "The black wire is connected to same Signal ground location as the LC-1 (Green, White wire) and is connected to the FlashScan Pin D “Common Analog Ground”." as green and white to chassis ground and the black wire from the same termination point back to the "D" terminal.

[joecar]

If the LC-1 black wire is shorted to either the LC-1 green/white or to ground, then the LC-1 stays in calibration mode, it should not damage the LC-1; when you disconnect the LC-1 black, the LC-1 should finish calibration and be ready to operate (it's black but it's not a ground).

The black wire referred to in the tutorial seems to be a length of wire used to connect LC-1 green/white to FlashScan.

If you think your LC-1 is defective/damaged, contact Innovate and see if they'll repair it for you (they did this for me after I tried flashing it).

[eboggs_jkvl]

I fully understand that the black wire in the picture is not used to depict a "normal ground" color. I look at this picture from the Innovate handbook and remain confused. To me, it shows the G&W wires tied to a chassis ground. Screw it. I'm going to go watch world cup for a while.

WHen I start the car, my red LED blinks for 20 seconds or so and then goes to a steady "lit" condition.

Elmer

[joecar]

I fully understand that the black wire in the picture is not used to depict a "normal ground" color. I look at this picture from the Innovate handbook and remain confused. To me, it shows the G&W wires tied to a chassis ground. Screw it. I'm going to go watch world cup for a while.

WHen I start the car, my red LED blinks for 20 seconds or so and then goes to a steady "lit" condition.

ElmerElmer,
Don't pay too much attention to Innovate's connection "idea", it's not very good (in my opinion) when using the LC-1 to emulate the 4-wire NBO2 sensor (F-body and Y-body).

Blink 20 seconds and then steady, that means it should be working, you're ready to go.

Enjoy the game. :cheers:

Joe

[killaz]

aight thx slom, ill be home in like 1 hour ill give it a try

[killaz]

all i can get is please plug in your LC-1 and power it on. I have it hooked up like loecar says. I have tried 2 serial usb adapters and still nothing. Terminator plug is in ect ect. What am i missing?

[TAQuickness]

have you tried verifying the USB/Serial device settings? Have you verified it works at all?

I bought the cheapest USB to serial dongle I could find, loaded the included software to my laptop, and everything worked fine.

[killaz]

i installed the CD that it came with. Then pluged it in assunming it would work?? When i plug the USB in the computer CHIMES but it still says "please plug in your LC-1 and power it on" How do activate it?:bash:

[joecar]

i installed the CD that it came with. Then pluged it in assunming it would work?? When i plug the USB in the computer CHIMES but it still says "please plug in your LC-1 and power it on" How do activate it?:bash:
If your LC-1 is getting at least 12V across the red/blue wires, and you have the terminator plugged into the SERIAL IN connector, then your LC-1 might be defective or broken.

[killaz]

so with the red hooked up to the positive of the batery and the blue to the neg, with the terminator plug in should the wideband get warm?

[joecar]

so with the red hooked up to the positive of the batery and the blue to the neg, with the terminator plug in should the wideband get warm?I found it gets mildly warm (ouch, don't hold it between thumb/forefinger, it gets warm but not smoking hot); it gets hotter if you have running alternator (13+V) on it;

with fully charged battery connected (12.4+V), the LED should flash for about 20-30 seconds and then stay on steady; if it doesn't do this, then something's wrong; if it does do this, and the terminator is plugged in, the LM software should connect.

[killaz]

crud, i was messing with it today. Got the tester out and it red only 6 volts, also got low voltage on my HUD. Could this be my issue?

[joecar]

crud, i was messing with it today. Got the tester out and it red only 6 volts, also got low voltage on my HUD. Could this be my issue?Yes, probably is, the LC-1 wants 12V or better, your battery is very very flat or failed.

[killaz]

ok so i hooked it all up and all i get is please plug in your LC-1 and power it on so is this thing blown??????? and yes it tested at 13 volts.