noob questions about tuning

[jeeper]

I have a project pretty close to wrapped up. I transplanted a Vortec 5.3 from 2000 Silverado into a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport.

The engine has no internal modifications. Stock injectors cam etc..

I kept the Jeep computer to run the stock Jeep gauges and speedometer. I am running two oil and temp sensors one each for the Jeep and GM computer. I used a Novak crank/cam emulator for the stock Jeep tachometer. Everything seems to be working fine there. All gauges work fine.

I have created a custom OS by segment swapping a manual transmission into a 12212156 OS. I have disable all torque management that I could find in the tune. VATS is disabled.

I have ordered a wideband O2 sensor but am waiting for it to arrive. Once it's here I still need to build a custom cable to use the AEM 30-0334 with my V2 and LS1b controller.

The Jeep is currently drivable but isn't running great. I have no speed sensor so the GM ECU has no way of knowing the vehicle is in motion. I'm wondering if I actually need one?

It seems to run pretty good and has adequate power in open loop but as soon as it goes into closed loop it doesn't seem to have power unless I go WOT or at least heavy throttle. At cruise speed it seems to run like it's starving for fuel. I'm guessing my VE table needs to be adjusted. What I'm wondering is if I can do any temporary changes to the tune using the narrow bands to improve drivability until I can do a proper tune using the wideband and calc.vet tutorial?

[jeeper]

My AEM 30-0334 came in already. It wasn't supposed to be here until June 3 according to the seller. I'm still waiting for the new sockets and pins so I create a custom cable to use the analog output with the LS1b computer though. It's supposed to be here May 30th according to the tracking provided by DigiLink.

So today I decided I'd try to tune some without the wideband. I figured if I can at least tune the closed loop portion of the VE table it would increase drivability a little maybe.

I followed the notes from CALC VET summary:
III. CALC.VET Tuning Tips

1. B0701: Disable Catalytic Converter Protection
Insures accurate stoich and PE mode/WOT Fueling

2. B0120: Change RPM Threshold for Airflow Calculation from 4000 to 400
Eliminates any Airflow Correction/Contribution from the VE Table
(if your transient filter is sufficiently wide, it will filter out VE contribution)

3. B3308: Disable DFCO: Change B3308 (M6) to 140C Change B3313 to 140C
Accurate fueling computations

4. B4105: O2 Switch-points to 450 Millivolts
Smoother MAF & VE Table

5. B3618: PE Modifier Based on Rpm: EQR 1.16
Safe adequate Fueling regardless of Fuel Type

6. B3616: PE Enable: make sure PE enables as load becomes significant
(e.g. below 60% TP below 3200 rpm, 35% TP above 3200 rpm).

7. B3608 and B3609: PE Delay: set these to zeros.

I also followed these instructions after loading those changes into my computer:
Before logging, use the scantool to clear trims
( goto DVT tab, select PCM, goto Learning subtab, click Activate, click Fuel Reset, wait a few moments, click De-activate )

When I tried driving the Jeep afterwards it was practically undrivable.

So I loaded the "pre tune" settings back in and just set B3608 to zero and loaded that in. (B3609 is a table and the instructions don't make sense to me so I didn't change that to zero.) When I took it for a test drive it was actually not bad. Once the temp got to normal though it was back to feeling underpowered but not as bad as before.

I guess I have a lot more reading to do. I didn't realize how in depth I would need to get to tune this thing. The learning curve is steeper than I was expecting. It's clear to me now that the older I get the better I used to be... This is making me feel pretty dumb...

[joecar]

Post your before and after tune files here, and a log file.

[jeeper]

Thanks for taking the time to help. I didn't actually get a log because the vehicle wasn't really drivable after loading the "tune" settings into the computer. I have attached two tunes. The names should be self evident.

[joecar]

B3609: you have it set to zeros (correct).

B3618: this is incorrect (excessively lean, this is why it ran poorly), you are using Lambda instead of EQR... i.e. you set it to Lambda 1.16 instead of EQR 1.16 (take note: Lambda = 1/EQR).

Set your fueling units to EQR , it will make tuning easier.

[joecar]

You also have a lot of other changes which I believe to be unnecessary (please correct me).

[jeeper]

So how do I change the fueling units to EQR? Edit I think I found this.


What other changes did I make that are unnecessary?

[jeeper]

So I now have everything I think I need to install the wideband and connect it as analog to the V2 for my LS1b. As I look at the Jeep exhaust I really don't want to remove it to install a bung for the wideband. I'm wondering how bad it would be to remove one of my narrow bands and install this 30-0334 in its place?

[jeeper]

I'm starting to think I don't have enough ability to learn this but I made a small step today in spite of my mistakes.

I ended up taking out the left side NBO2 sensor and installing the wideband in its place. I tried to follow the tutorial on how to calc.vet tune. I'm sure I'm missing something (but that wasn't my real problem today). I then needed to learn how to load the V2 for logging. I followed a thread that explains how to set that up. I then tried a quick logging session. I connected the V2 and warmed up the engine. I then started logging data (or so I thought). I only ran for a couple minutes in my driveway anyway because I was just experimenting.

I stopped the datalog and came inside and connected to my computer to view the log. What I couldn't find was how I was supposed to view it. After a few minutes of poking around unsuccessful I decided I would just pop the SD card out of the V2 and into my computer. That's when I realized I didn't have the SD card pressed into place. Doh...

But what I did learn today (so far) was that the engine runs poorly when the parameters from the tutorial are loaded into the PCM. I decided I'd look to see if there were any codes in the PCM that may give me any clues. Turns out there was. The purge system is not functional. After searching for how to disable that I went back out and re-installed the pre tune with a few modifications that totally disabled the purge system. Viola...the engine runs good (well, acceptable) driving down the road. No more feeling like it loses power at cruise speed at least. It sounds a lot better too.

But I have more questions.

With the WB connected and in it's default configuration I am reading around 23 on warm idle and around 18 at cruise speed. I need to verify the default display is actually lambda (but I was assuming it is).

On to the questions.

Before I pulled out a NB (and also while I still had the tune parameters in the PCM) I did a scan with the V2 and watched the voltage on the O2 sensors. What I noticed was the sensor labelled HO2S21 was reading very low after a few moments compared to HO2S11. I'm talking 40-50mv for bank 2 vs 430-440mv on bank 1. Is this normal to have one that far out from the other?

Is bank 2 supposed to be on the drivers side (left side here in the USA) or did I wire them up wrong when I made my harness?


I will be pulling my exhaust eventually and welding in a bung. I don't really want to, but I think I may have blown a collector gasket which may be what's causing the readings to be so far off from each other...?

[jeeper]

Nope...I'm wrong again.

Turns out it wasn't the changes I made to the purge system that allows it to run okay. I did have that disabled by the "disabled" button. It seems that may have been all that was needed for that.

So I was out experimenting after I posted the update/questions and ended up destroying the cord I made for analog logging with the wideband. I still wanted to try some things but I was low on fuel so I decided I would run and get some in the Jeep. I remembered reading somewhere that it wasn't good to run the wideband without power because it could get damaged. I pulled the wideband and re-installed the narrow band and proceeded to the gas station.

About a mile down the road the Jeep got up to temperature and again started running like it was losing power. I pulled over and unplugged the O2 sensor I had just installed and took off again. The Jeep runs fine that way.

Also I figured out I needed to use V8 file explorer to move the log file off the V2. I played the .efi file but don't really know what I'm doing yet obviously. When I look at the Dashboard (F10) tab there is no information displayed on the gauges. I do have some seemingly useless data on Data (F9) though.

[statesman]

I have no speed sensor so the GM ECU has no way of knowing the vehicle is in motion. I'm wondering if I actually need one?

Yes, you do need one.

[jeeper]

Thanks for the reply. I'm looking into options for adding one. For now though it does seem to have adequate power without a speed sensor and no torque management. I will likely still add a speed sensor in the near future though.


I have decided I should focus on why the engine idles so lean and runs lean at cruise according to the wideband. I shouldn't be trying to tune the engine if I have a mechanical problem or vacuum leak etc...
What I tried today was checking for any leak in vacuum. I tried propane around all the places there was something going into the intake. Both ends or anything entering the intake. I never noticed even a slight change in idle. So I decided I better verify the propane method because I had never done a vacuum leak test using propane before but I have used brake cleaner. I then sprayed brake cleaner around the same places and never noticed any change in idle. I don't think I have a vacuum leak.

So I decided I could try changing a tune parameter and add more fuel to see if that helps. I was poking around in the tune last night and made some changes in case I didn't find a vacuum leak. First I put B3609 (PE Delay Counter) to all zeros. I modified B3613 (PE MAP Threshold) from 55 to 6 and I modified B3607 (Open Loop Lean Limit) from 1 to 10.

I did a cal flash this morning and the engine would not idle at all. I reverted B3613 back to 55 and changed B3607 from 10 to 2. The engine idles great now and the AFR now reads around 13 at idle. I'm going to be taking it for a cruise soon and will report back after it has had a few miles on it with this tune.

[jeeper]

The Jeep is definitely running better at idle since the change. It idles around 13-13.5 AFR at warm idle. A tad rich but I'm okay with that for now. But at warm cruise it's still hovering around 17. If I go WOT it gets to around 15 AFR. I can probably live with that for a bit.

What took a bit to sink is though is my passenger side O2 isn't working so I'm stuck in open loop. It is pretty drivable in open loop though. It's better than my old sbc 5.7 first gen powered CJ7 with a carburetor. My next plan is to swap in the O2 that I removed from the drivers side and see what happens when it gets installed in the passenger side.

[jeeper]

Help me please?

I ended up removing one of my exhaust pipes after I tried removing the O2 sensor from the passenger side exhaust pipe. I ended up galling the threads in the bung. I suppose I could have chased the threads but I opted to remove the exhaust pipe and replace the bung and add a second bung on the pipe for the wideband.

I also put in two new stock NB O2 sensors one on each side.

I took it for a test drive. In open loop my AFR is pretty good. At about 2200 RPM it hovers around 14-14.5. That seems pretty good to me.

My problem starts when it transitions to closed loop. Now that I have two working NBs and a working WB I can see what happens when it gets to closed loop. The engine is pretty much not drivable once it transitions into closed loop. It loses most of it's power and I watched the AFR go from around 14 to 10 very quickly. At 10 the vehicle has very little power.

So my question I am hoping someone will answer is how do I reduce fuel in closed loop? Is this coming from the VE table? The vehicle is barely drivable once it gets to closed loop so getting a log seems like a daunting task...

Edit:
Also how do I edit the calc.pids.txt file to represent my AEM WB in analog configuration?

[jeeper]

I have tried to understand creating custom analog PIDs. I don't think I do understand it but I did try. Can someone confirm if this will work?

[jeeper]

I found this one in another thread. Will this one work with my AEM?