using EFILive like HPTuners

[5557nut]

I am still learning EFILive. I posted this in V2 but didn't think anyone would see it or it was in the wrong place. Anyway...
I have a friend with HPtuners that had a screen up monitoring cam n crank voltage, injector pulse, coil voltage with ign on not running and when running.
I have been trying to create the same display dashboard in scan v7.5 but am not having success.
Ihave an LS3 e38 ecm in 55 Chevy manual trans, os:12633056
Does anyone know if that can be done and where?
Thanks

[pinstripebob]

There are a few ways to view all the information you're looking for, and there are a ton of options for what you can view. I would definitely read through the V7.5 Scan Tool manual a couple times, which can be found here: https://download.efilive.com/Documentation/EFILiveV75Scan.pdf

In short, start by choosing the information you want to view, called PIDs in EFILive. If you're new to EFILive, plug your laptop and FlashScan V2 into your car, turn it on (at least have the key in the run position), and connect to your car when you have the V7.5 Scan Tool open. Once connected, go to the PIDs tab, and check the box labeled "Supported" near the top of this page. This is where you choose what you want to view or log, such as injector pulse width or coil voltage.

Once you pick all the information you want to view or log, then click on the "Data" tab or the "Dashboard" tab. These two tabs let you view all your data in different formats. If you want something that looks like a car's dashboard, go to the "Dashboard" page and click on the "A." If you want graphs, click "B." If you want something else, click "C" and spend some time putting together what you want.

There's a little bit of a learning curve, but once you start playing with it the possibilities are almost endless.

[5557nut]

Thank you pinstripbob, that was a very helpful explanation. Sometimes some responses feel like they think I'm a seasoned tuner.
When I did as you suggested I got 88 PID's. So I will use the manual to figure out what some PID's mean that I can't figure out. I'm hoping the manual will tell me the most informative PID's to use. Thanks again.

[pinstripebob]

Not a problem, there is a very big learning curve, but the more you play with it the better you'll become.

There may be more PIDs that become "supported" but rely on other PIDs to be selected first. That manual may not have many good recommendations for what you want to see.

Personally, I would be looking at injector duty cycle, airflow from your MAF, manifold pressure (MAP), RPM, spark advance, spark knock retard, maybe vehicle speed (VSS), throttle position, probably throttle area if you have a drive-by-wire setup, short term and long term fuel trims, intake air temp, engine coolant temp, oxygen sensor voltage for sensor one in both banks, and commanded AFR. There will be more that you will want to view or log depending on what you're trying to tune. If you're trying to tune fueling, airflow, or spark, you'll want different PIDs. You have a manual so you won't be worried about transmission stuff which will simplify things.

The V7.5 scan tool will start to slow down its refresh rate if you have too many PIDs being logged at the same time, so try to only log what you need. Go ahead and give it a crack and start playing with it. If you're only scanning, you won't hurt anything, so don't be afraid to try things that move you out of your comfort zone.

[5557nut]

Wow, thanks, but most of the PID's you suggested are NOT supported. Do you know why?
I looked at the DATA tab and all the PID's marked unsupported are in the DATA tab???
I am going to use a density tune and not the MAF because I am using a y-pipe cold air intake. Does that complicate things?

[pinstripebob]

They'll be supported, might have a weird description. Make sure you're connected to your car, where you can press log or record and it will start doing a log.

If you still have issues, take a screenshot of your PIDs tab.

No problem running with or without the MAF.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[5557nut]

OK, Here are some screen shots.
2350723508

[pinstripebob]

Interesting. This might seem like a silly question, but can you click on File>Select Controller and make sure it's set to E38? From your first post, that's the ECM you're using.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[5557nut]

Yes I did check that when key was on. Selected was "E38 Gen IV V8".

[pinstripebob]

I was a bit stumped on this, but I have two more troubleshooting methods we can try. Do the following:

1. Go to your PIDs tab, find the PID with the description "Air/Fuel Ratio Commanded" and the Parameter "E38.AFRATIO_DMA" and double click it to add it to the other PIDs you have selected. Then go ahead and connect to your car and start recording data, press the red button on the bottom middle of the screen. Once it's recording, go to your "Data" tab and see if there is data for any of the PIDs. If there is, take a picture of the whole page and post it here.

2. After trying number 1 above, go ahead and stop logging, close the software, and reopen it so we're working with a clean slate. Go to your PIDs tab, and click on the "Open an existing PID selection file." Choose "E38 ECM Metric.pid" and connect to your car, then start recording data. Once recording, go back to the Data tab, see if any PIDs have information, and take a picture of the whole page and post it here.

[5557nut]

I'm sorry for the delay...yesterday morning I was grinding and the grinder kicked back and my right thumb/forefinger pretty deep. I was in the middle of redoing my fuse box wiring so can't run the engine now. Hopefully I'll have it ready to run by Fri and will get back to you.

[pinstripebob]

Oh shoot! Well hopefully that heals up quickly.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[joecar]

You may have to Validate Pids.

Also, instead of E38.AFRATIO_DMA, try SAE.LAMBDA, and if it works use this.

[5557nut]

Well I know I've been away with health issues and fixing radiator/intake issues.
I just ran the engine and the record failed, this is what I got. I don't know what's going on.

[5557nut]

Maybe this will help.

[5557nut]

I got rid of the error $31 by selecting "supported PID's". Then connected to the e38 (green button) and validated PID's. It worked. Ive got a headache!!
Here is the 1st and 2nd logs of your question.
Sorry about being so flaky...I am new to this and I've never flashed an ecm either. So that's the next hurdle.

[pinstripebob]

Great! For both of those logs, if you open them up and go to the Data tab, you'll see values for pretty much everything you have selected. You have a lot of PIDs selected that probably won't be much use to you, such as all your analog input voltages and intake manifold tuning valve. Although if you have something connected that is providing an analog voltage then definitely keep it.

So you're getting the information, now you need to decide how you want to view it. Generally, viewing the information in charts is helpful, viewing the information in gauges is cool looking. If you click on the Dashboard tab, then click on "B," you can start to setup your charts. Open up that PDF I linked earlier in this thread, go to page 49 and start reading through the dashboards and charts. Each chart can display up to 4 PIDs, I like to have 5 or 6 charts so I can see just about everything on one screen. Play with that a bit, and then play with the PIDs you have selected a bit more and see where that gets you.

[joecar]

Sorry to hear about your grinder accident, I hope you're healing ok.


+1 select just a few pids and see how it goes (SAE.LAMBDA, SAE.MAF, SAE.MAP, SAE.LONGFT1/2, SAE.RPM, SAE.IAT, SAE.ECT, SAE.SPARKADV).

First do Info->Validate Pids.

[5557nut]

Thanks you, I really do appreciate this help.
I am going for a density since I am using a Y-Pipe cold air intake.
The docs I am finding are from 2007/2008 and are hard to follow because of the software updates not matching what they say.
This what I get to go mafless: swap values for C0301/C0302 to turn off MAF; C0303 & C0305 Set to “10”; P0101, P0102 and P0103 Set all to “No MIL”

[pinstripebob]

Yep that should be right. Make sure you have an IAT plugged in though. I assume you got that from the tutorial shown here: https://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?8961-E38-VVE-Setup-Guide

Keep in mind the E38 is from that 2007/2008 time period, so everything you read from back then will still be relevant. Different operating systems (OS) for different cars/years will always have some variation. Tables might be named differently, you may have additional tables, or may not have tables that other people have.

Definitely keep playing with the software. Click on things and see what they do, hover over things for a description of what happens. If you're looking at your tune in the tune tool, when you double click a table, on the far right near the top there will be a tab labeled "User Notes." Use those, make notes in tables as you make changes so you have something to reference in your own way of thinking down the road.

[5557nut]

I do have the IAT sensor in the bottom of the y-pipe 2" from the TB.
The 2007/2008 info I was referring to is the docs from EFILive tech docs. I have read so many docs I can't remember which ones had descriptions I could not find in 7.5Tune.
But I will plug along. I know I can make adjustments but I am having trouble understanding when to know know its right. So is it I get it close so it runs decent then put it on a dyno to know its performing correctly.
I do appreciate your help.

[5557nut]

I'm back...I went for a road test, went to accelerate quicker than normal, the engine popped went into limp mode only 1/4mi form the shop. Thought I could limp back, but Nooooooo, it died. Friend happen by n pulled me to the shop. Found 3 fuses blown. Main relay, fan relay #2, and fuse block 12v feed, battery voltage was fine. Pulled plugs cause it was running like there were 3 dead cylinders. The plugs were black so I replaced them but no change. Hooked up the V2 and no codes. Now won't connect to the ecm. Beginning to wonder if this EFI tuning is for me!

[joecar]

Did you find out why the fuses blew...?

Are you saying the spark plugs in the 3 dead cylinders were black...? This means the burn is way too rich. Were the plugs wet or just black with carbon or black with oily black goo...?

With engine running check for spark at each cylinder (initially, I use an inductive pencil spark tester, see pic).

Check fuses and grounds.

23534

[5557nut]

Nope...all plugs were black. Yes its running rich. The is running in limp mode and very rough.

[joecar]

OK, Here are some screen shots.
2350723508


For E38, use GM.INJPWB1 and GM.INJPWB2 (noting that GM.IBPW1 and GM.IBPW2 are for LS1A and LS1B)...

you will then need to modify your calc_pids.txt by inserting the following (at the right places):



*CLC-00-011
% 0.0 100.0 .1 "{GM.INJPWB1}*{SAE.RPM}/1200"

*CLC-00-012
% 0.0 100.0 .1 "{GM.INJPWB2}*{SAE.RPM}/1200"



and


CALC.INJDCB1 F011 CLC-00-011 % Tuning "Injector Duty Cycle Bank 1"
CALC.INJDCB2 F012 CLC-00-012 % Tuning "Injector Duty Cycle Bank 2"

[joecar]

Also, instead of GM.AFR use SAE.LAMBDA... this means your BEN calc pid will now be like this (if you're using serial comm from wideband):




*CLC-00-110
factor 0.5 1.5 .4 "{EXT.WO2LAM1}/{SAE.LAMBDA}"




CALC.WO2BEN F110 CLC-00-110 factor Tuning "BEN from WB"

[joecar]

But first, let's make sure you can connect your FSV2 to your E38 and properly log.

[5557nut]

Sorry, working in the shop. I did not figure out why the fuses blew, still a mystery...new build n just put body harness but not finding in hanging wires.
I did get the V2 to connect. Seems like theres a trick to connecting...turn all off...unplug v2 from obd...turn key to run....plug in V2...wow
The calc_pids.txt file is empty. Ive attached it.

[5557nut]

Should I start a new thread?
I've got issues since my LS3 e38 went into limp mode and looking at the log002 file the readings are all over the place.

joecar...the configurations you gave is over my head...I am a newbie and trying to get comfortable with the scan/tune software.

[5557nut]

Thanks for your help...I found the connector came off the TB...connected it and engine fired.
Still pretty rich. I logged another file with engine around 2000rpm. If you can still help?
I'm a little concerned updating the config. The sections are not clear.
Could you tell me what comments a line and what the * % mean in the file.
I've attached the log file.

[pinstripebob]

You're making headway, keep it up. If it's your first time working with EFI it's a steep learning curve, keep working at it!

Your log has very few PIDs, all of them except your long term fuel trim have data which is a step in the right direction. Can you post your most recent tune file? Your tune acts like an input, and a log acts like an output. Looking at your input and output helps determine what needs to change or stay the same with your input.

Your log is extremely short, it looks like you turned your car on, gave it some gas, and got a 46 second log. Good start, generally when you log you want to try getting a lot of data, 20+ minutes if possible. Since you're still getting the hang of things, these short logs to verify your PIDs are correct are good. Try adding some more PIDs and getting another log, where you see data for each PID after stopping and saving your log. PIDs that reference short term and long term fuel trims will help, also knock retard and E38.APCYL_DMA are helpful. Because you have an E38 ECM, you can choose "E38 ECM" from the drop down menu on the PIDs tab and filter PIDs that SHOULD work with your car. Note SHOULD because each computer's operating system is different.

For the calc_pids.txt file, I'll attach mine for reference. It has A LOT more PIDs than you need, but hopefully you can look at it as a reference and see how the nomenclature works and what it looks like to make your own PIDs. Only use it for reference, you don't want extra PIDs clogging things up and adding complexity where it isn't needed.

23543

[5557nut]

Need some understanding config layout/def...I'm use to something different.
I'm guessing # is a comment
* = ?
% = ?
Which language is the aimed for?
What about a paper on writing a config file for this environment?

[5557nut]

Hey, I got my support answers:
1. needed to change properties>connection> cable to V2.5
2. I had originally had the Dakota Digital Bim connected to OBD at the pin but changed it later because I forgot a dyno tuner said DD Bim could not share can connection. I had changed the connection to be at the can connection (split connector). Thats why all the #31 errors.

I am attaching my latest tune and short log from Scan7.5 and one from V8. Still not driving it because the fans aren't working (relays wired wrong by a dip...I've had to rewire this harness so many times) and the engine doesn't sound right(like timing and fuel are off. I used Swingtan's guide for OLSD tune and hope I did not miss something. Hope you can see something.

[pinstripebob]

I got busy getting my supercharger buttoned up. My wife and I are leaving with the car tomorrow for a long weekend trip. I had a chance to review your tune really quick.

Most of my time spent tuning is with the LS1B controller, but I'm starting to get into the E38. Do you have a wideband oxygen sensor? If so, is that something that you are able to plug into your Flashscan and include in your log? I flipped through some of your idle airflow tables and they look okay, timing seems okay as well for the portion of the log where it is idling with no pedal input. I referenced this thread with regards to idle airflow: https://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?9740-E38-idle-tuning

Also, can you log SAE.FUELSYS? This will tell us if it's running in open loop or closed loop, just a double check.

Engines run properly when air, fuel, and spark are set properly. If you have a wideband, log that so we can see how your fueling looks. Commanded AFR is good, but it only tells us the input and not the output.

[joecar]

Have a read thru this to gain some insight: https://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?15236-Calc-VET-correcting-MAF-and-calculating-VE-(in-single-log)

Concentrate on the concepts.

The calc_pids.txt file is it's own language... note the CLC-00-xxx lables match the pid name to the definition of it...

the 0.5 and 1.5 are the default display range on the scantool, the .4 is the precision of the displayed value on the scantool, factor is its units.



*CLC-00-110
factor 0.5 1.5 .4 "{GM.EQIVRATIO}*{EXT.WO2LAM1}"





CALC.WO2BEN F110 CLC-00-110 factor Tuning "BEN from WB"



Remind us which wideband and how is it connected...?

[5557nut]

I got busy getting my supercharger buttoned up. My wife and I are leaving with the car tomorrow for a long weekend trip. I had a chance to review your tune really quick.

Most of my time spent tuning is with the LS1B controller, but I'm starting to get into the E38. Do you have a wideband oxygen sensor? If so, is that something that you are able to plug into your Flashscan and include in your log? I flipped through some of your idle airflow tables and they look okay, timing seems okay as well for the portion of the log where it is idling with no pedal input. I referenced this thread with regards to idle airflow: https://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?9740-E38-idle-tuning

Also, can you log SAE.FUELSYS? This will tell us if it's running in open loop or closed loop, just a double check.

Engines run properly when air, fuel, and spark are set properly. If you have a wideband, log that so we can see how your fueling looks. Commanded AFR is good, but it only tells us the input and not the output.

Thanks, I'll give that a try

[5557nut]

Remind us which wideband and how is it connected...?

I have the Innovate DLG-1/LC-2 wideband setup and working. Just don't have it connected to Flashscan. I have been trying to find a thread about connecting to Flashscan without a lot of success.
Thanks for the calc_pid explanation. I will have to wait ot mess that up when I am more comfortable with scan/tune.

[pinstripebob]

You need a null modem adapter, then plug it into the serial input of your Flaahscan. Log the LC1 external wideband PIDs.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[5557nut]

You need a null modem adapter, then plug it into the serial input of your Flaahscan. Log the LC1 external wideband PIDs.

Where do I get null modem adapter? Does it plug into the 5v or 12v...guess I need to get one then its obvious. :)

[pinstripebob]

Amazon or any local electronics store should have them. You can see the one I use in the link below:

https://www.amazon.com/female-slimline-transfer-serial-adapter/dp/B075XHWVSJ/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=null+modem+adapter&qid=1603390566&s=electronics&sr=1-3

I misspoke earlier, when you do plug in your serial output of your LC2 to your Flashscan, connect them with the null modem adapter. Then choose the following PIDs:

- EXT.WO2AFR1
- EXT.WO2EQR1
- EXT.WO2LAM1

This will get you measured AFR, EQ ratio, and lambda from your wideband in your log.

[5557nut]

This will get you measured AFR, EQ ratio, and lambda from your wideband in your log.

I guess I'm a little slow...What I have...just to make sure I get this right:
There is a serial cable(db9) that connects to the out connector on DLG-1
There is a serial cable (db9) with Flashscan that connects to RJ45 Flashscan port
Both cables are female...the adapter is male/female...now what?
The null modem adapter connects between the two
Then flash will see both LC-2 wideband sensors?
I pick the PID's in ScanV8 along with the other suggested PID's from you and Paul?
While I am connected to e38 with V8?

[5557nut]

Amazon or any local electronics store should have them.

Ok, I found the male to male null modem adapter. Won't be here till next week. As soon as I get it set up I'll post. Thanks

[pinstripebob]

Good deal, our cables are a little different but you should be good to go once that adapter arrives. Plug it in, select those external serial wideband PIDs, and get a log. Should be as easy as that. If any issues come up that can be sorted out.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[5557nut]

Good deal, our cables are a little different but you should be good to go once that adapter arrives. Plug it in, select those external serial wideband PIDs, and get a log. Should be as easy as that. If any issues come up that can be sorted out.

Well it ain't gonna be this week. We are dealing with a hurricane wedn thru sat. I prefer not to test in the rain.

[5557nut]

Hey Garrett...It's been a while. I got a headache trying to understand the VVE an managing airflow n spark. I have been playing with the Scan tool and can use it decent now. You tried to help me but I guess I wasn't getting it. I've been doing a lot of reading and playing with logging. My issues are still cold start n having to peddle it till it starts. I have logged a cold start and would hope you had the time to look, its short. I'll include my last tune also. Thanks, hope you are doing well.

[pinstripebob]

Got it! It looks like you have been following the E38 idle tuning thread a little bit, found here: https://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?9740-E38-idle-tuning

If you can, have another look at post numbers 7, 25, and 30. 30 is a good one to help guide through setting idle correctly, which will play a role in good startup.

Something else you might do is look at some of your open loop and idle tables compared to a stock LS3 tune. I've attached a stock Corvette LS3/manual transmission tune. In particular, have a look at tables in the Fuel > Open Loop area. You might copy B0141 and B0143 exactly as they are to give yourself more fuel at startup (like a choke), and you might switch B1219 to enabled if you're still having trouble with startup.

Although, it is interesting that your commanded fuel at startup is really low, 4.2:1. I don't have one of my logs with me, I'll have to get a log at startup to see what my LS3 commands for comparison. I'm also curious to see how my g/cyl looks at cranking and startup. As I'm typing this I'm wondering if you have something else weird going on with your tune that's causing airflow to be quite a bit off from reality. I'm running without a MAF as well, so it should be a decent comparison.

23828

[5557nut]

I'm out of town but should be able to look at your suggestions by Thursday...thanks

[5557nut]

Got it! It looks like you have been following the E38 idle tuning thread a little bit

Yep A lot of my settings came fro Swingtan n Hymey.
As I said in our pm, I'm attaching a pic of my engine intake and the newest tune not flashed because something happened and the engine will not fire. I have .3v at a ecm grnd point so I have to chase it down.

[pinstripebob]

I saw your PM. Definitely get your electrical gremlin sorted out before making any changes to your tune. You might find that some of your issues go away if your electrical problems get fixed.

Please note, the tune I posted is a stock Corvette tune, not mine. I like to use stock tunes for reference if I get way off track. Do a comparison of open loop and cranking tables, these might point to your hard starting issue.

[Highlander]

Hit Shift F2 to make sure PIDs are validated.