LC-1 wiring ? for Joecar

[ViolatorTA]

Joe,

When you wired your LC-1 did you split the casing with the 7 wires in it and run them where needed or did you solder extra wire for the ones to run into the car for FS hookups?

Such as the white, black and brown wires.

Thank you in advance
Shawn

[ViolatorTA]

Got her Joe. I believe it'll all work ok. PIA but done nicely I believe. Everything is hooked. NB, WB, EFILive. Calibrated and have solid LED. Now the fun of programming for EFILive.

I'll have to take some pics in the daylight.

[joecar]

Joe,

When you wired your LC-1 did you split the casing with the 7 wires in it and run them where needed or did you solder extra wire for the ones to run into the car for FS hookups?

Such as the white, black and brown wires.

Thank you in advance
ShawnShawn,

I first cut the LC-1 cable to 18" (I should have cut it to 30");
then I split the cable's casing using a razor knife, and carefully unravelled the 7 wires;
then I crimped on a connector and made a matching extension cable to run into the car thru firewall;
so my extension cable can stay in the car, and I can move my LC-1 to another car.

Joe:)

[joecar]

Got her Joe. I believe it'll all work ok. PIA but done nicely I believe. Everything is hooked. NB, WB, EFILive. Calibrated and have solid LED. Now the fun of programming for EFILive.

I'll have to take some pics in the daylight.Yes PIA, but worth the trouble (do it right and the connections will be reliable).

Pics, yes please... :cheers:

[ViolatorTA]

I took pics but will have to put them up later when I get up to my Home PC to load then onto.

I wire tied the LC-1 to DS of the trans and then ran the 7 wire cable up the back of the trans to the firewall. Ran across the firewall to the PCM location. From there I brought the PS O2 harness up the inner fender I guess you'd call it. Cut the 4 wire connector off an old sensor and soldered them to the 4 wires in the LC-1 cable. Put conduit from the end of the plug to the 7 wire cable leaving out the 3 remaining wires then taped off the ends of conduit. I then soldered 3 long wires to the 3 remaining wires and passed them through the firewall just below the PCM again putting those into coduit also.
I then ran the 2 data wires from the LC-1 controller through the shifter boot like I've seen pictured elsewhere and put those in conduit also.

The weirdest thing I get now is, all the numbers are looking ok except the DS O2 voltage. It dropped to .1xx since the install. Before it changed normally and hung in the .4xx area at idle. The WB is on the PS and it sits around .4xx at idle and transitions well.

[Garry]

I've seen similar behaviour on mine ... guess the ramp and the voltages from the LC1 howto differ from the stock NBO2 ... I guess I will just ignore them and run w/o the NBO2 values ...

[ViolatorTA]

I've seen similar behaviour on mine ... guess the ramp and the voltages from the LC1 howto differ from the stock NBO2 ... I guess I will just ignore them and run w/o the NBO2 values ...


but my wb is in sensor 2's location(ps) and sensor 1(stock nb) is low voltage.

[joecar]

but my wb is in sensor 2's location(ps) and sensor 1(stock nb) is low voltage.Try putting the NBO2S you took from bank 2 and swap it into bank 1. Did I understand that right...?

Or, it could be that you're running too lean.

[Xtnct00WS6]

pics please!!! :)

[ViolatorTA]

I moved it to the I pipe right under the passenger rear seat. The floorpan humps up there where you have alot of room to put the sensor in well above the 3-9 o'clock position. Mine is around 11 o'clock. This also allowed me to run the sensor wire into the passenger compartment right below the rear seat which allowed me to put the controller in the car under that seat. I then ran the wires under the carpet going under the console and ran the 4 wire connector out the shifter boot and plugged it int the PS rear O2 sensor plug, then ran my pushbutton power,ground and efi wires. Now there are no wires to burn anywhere and the only ones outside the car are the sensor itself and the 4 wire plug used to power it up going to the rear O2 plug.

I'll go take pics of what you can see now.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/Violatorno1/WB001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/Violatorno1/WB002.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/Violatorno1/WB003.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/Violatorno1/WB004.jpg

[ViolatorTA]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v696/Violatorno1/WB005.jpg

[Lextech]

Nice write-up, I will be installing my LC1 soon. You said you have the sensor mounted in the #2 position--Do you mean behind the Cat/Conv. The sensor should be before the Cat.

[ViolatorTA]

I have no cats on the car. Rear O2 sensors have been eliminated leaving a power source for the WB. The WB is installed into a welded bung in the I pipe where the PS rear seat is.

[Lextech]

Thanks, Got it!

[joecar]

Cool, nicely hidden LED/pushbutton in glovebox. :cheers:

[Garry]

yeah, still looking for a good place to my stuff I plan to do ... LC1 button/LED, valet switch, DRL switch, ...

[Xtnct00WS6]

That's not designed to be portable is it?

[Garry]

"Portable" as in ... ? Please remember that a major amount of cable of the LC-1 controller are hardwired to the controller itself - so unless you start pulling the car on the lift or something and put some 1-2h of work into it, it's most likely not going anywhere after installation ...

For a dyno tune and "portable" system, I recon you just want to put in the WBO2 sensor, probably with extended cable, and run it from under the car to your dyno workplace, which has the notebook/PC or whatever you need to tune the car, then later just pull the WBO2 and put the NB back in ...