Need help with no start issue

[andysc3]

I have a 2011 Escalade that I just did a dod/vvt delete with a mild cam, new lifters, springs, long tubes and ory and rebuilt the transmission. I removed the battery while I worked on it. took about 3 weeks. Got everything back together and loaded my base tune and it wont start. It wont even turn over. kinda like it has a dead battery. The battery is fully charged. I go to turn the key and all the dash lights turn off. can someone look through my tune and see if I missed something?

[andysc3]

So I missed the pin on the gear selector when I installed the valvebody. I got it to start but it dies after a few seconds. Can anyone help me please?

[andysc3]

Cam is a btr 218/224 .553/.553 110lsa.

[andysc3]

Been working on getting it to idle. I can get it to start and idle for about a min but its hunting and its not going above 700rpm beside an occasional flare to 900-1000rpm. uploaded my current tune file

[andysc3]

Got it to stay running at idle with little hunting. But its running extremely lean. Pegged my aem eugo wideband at 18.5. Is there a rafig or similar precess like on the old ls1 pcms

[andysc3]

Found a few exhaust leaks. At the exhaust collector and there a 90* turn and another lap joint and clamp. The wideband is after the 90* bend. Does anyone know of a fix that doesn't involve a welder?
Also. My efans are not coming on. Was watching the map and clicked on data and coolant temp was at 212*F.

[andysc3]

Can anyone help please? I'm running around in circles trying to get this to idle right. Wo2 was saying it is extremely lean. Added fueling to the idle area now the map has shifted showing around 80kpa at idle.bg/cylinder was around .45-.55 and now it's getting .9 and only runs for a few seconds

[andysc3]

My idle speed also isn't what I'm trying to command. Wanting 850rpm and its around 400-700

[andysc3]

I started over with a copy of the stock tune file. followed the auto vve guide and the idle guide. Still cannot get it to stay idling. Im attaching my current tune and a log of several attempts to start it. the last attempt ended with the exhaust backfiring.

[andysc3]

Found the spark plugs fouled. Had 6 of the old ones still so put them in. It will start, Rev to 2200 then die.

[SOMFormula]

It looks like I've been helping you on the "E38 Idle".

I'd continue it here, as I don't want to get too far into issues on that thread which is dedicated to "Idle" only.

[andysc3]

okay. I'm home and looking through the tune you posted. to disable flex fuel do I just set B0178 to No? and plug the maf sensor wire back in after setting p0101/3 to one trip and log maf g/s. I added to the ve because I did get it to idle at one point but afr was pegged at 18.5. For the ecu torque outbut pid. which one is it? TRQTRANS (Delivered torque) or ENGTORQUE_M (Calc engine torque for CAN bus). To get the efans to come on sooner will I need to do the operating system patch for efans, B9904? What is the coolant modded head gasket? I googled it and could not find anything

[andysc3]

I finally braved the cold, its 30 right now lol, to upload the updated tune and test it out. it started right up. reved to 1500 then settled in around 1000rpm. AFR was good at first but soon after went way lean. would that be too much idle air or not enough in the vve? attaching the updated tune and log of it idleing. timing was a little high. need to adjust the timing tables to bring it back down to 15-20.

[SOMFormula]

I finally braved the cold, its 30 right now lol, to upload the updated tune and test it out. it started right up. reved to 1500 then settled in around 1000rpm. AFR was good at first but soon after went way lean. would that be too much idle air or not enough in the vve? attaching the updated tune and log of it idleing. timing was a little high. need to adjust the timing tables to bring it back down to 15-20.

I'll take a look
Glad it started right up for you. That's a positive.

[andysc3]

It definitely is. Been driving a buddies car while I worked on it and he is about ready to get it back. I did play around with the dvt idle controls some. Took it down to 700rpm. Any lower the idle would get rough and would start to hunt. And timing dropped to 10*

[SOMFormula]

I finally braved the cold, its 30 right now lol, to upload the updated tune and test it out. it started right up. reved to 1500 then settled in around 1000rpm. AFR was good at first but soon after went way lean. would that be too much idle air or not enough in the vve? attaching the updated tune and log of it idleing. timing was a little high. need to adjust the timing tables to bring it back down to 15-20.

So, when it comes to fueling, you CAN'T start with a "cold start".
You have to do Spark/drive-ability/fuel tuning FIRST. Then you can work on Cold Starts here and there over time.

So, it may be going lean, but you can't do anything about that till the fueling is fully tuned, warm/hot.

Here, I made a few changes for you:24256

I'm hoping this works for you with regards to the PID's:24258

[SOMFormula]

It definitely is. Been driving a buddies car while I worked on it and he is about ready to get it back. I did play around with the dvt idle controls some. Took it down to 700rpm. Any lower the idle would get rough and would start to hunt. And timing dropped to 10*


Hahhahahah, I can imagine.

Ok, in the DVT, you need to put the idle speed at a certain RPM, and then put it at a locked timing. Raise timing till you get the most vacuum, then back it down till the vacuum goes down (higher KPa). In between those numbers will be a great starting point for your Idle timing in the Base tables.
Set your RPM to where is "feels" good. The engine will tell you when it doesn't like something.

Warm it up. Then go driving and dial in your AFR while it's warm. I would worry about timing AFTER you get the AFR close and it driving nice.
Because off idle, you'll want to LOWER the timing (to help prevent surge and bucking). You'll want to lower the timing in the heavy loaded area to prevent knock.
You'll want to raise timing in the higher RPM area. But this is all based on the datalog.

[andysc3]

okay. so next step would be to make sure its idling, if its good and when it's at temp do an easy test drive and log. then correct spark and fueling as needed? and for the vve map, does it matter which imtv na map i use? open vs closed.

[SOMFormula]

okay. so next step would be to make sure its idling, if its good and when it's at temp do an easy test drive and log. then correct spark and fueling as needed? and for the vve map, does it matter which imtv na map i use? open vs closed.

Pretty much!

You want the "Actual" (which is your wideband) and the "commanded" (your ECM tells you this in the datalog) to match. IF they match, you're good!

You are going to adjust table: B8101. Then you are going to copy the entire table and paste it into table: B8102. Also, under the Virtual VE tab, to make it easy, always add a "checkmark" in the box: "Auto Update Coefficients". That way, when you make a change to that table, it carries over to the "real" table that modifies the actual fueling of the vehicle.

MAKE SURE B8101 AND B8102 MATCH.

[andysc3]

awesome. thank you. Guess its time to take it off the blocks lol.

[SOMFormula]

awesome. thank you. Guess its time to take it off the blocks lol.

If it starts up and revs all good....I would.
Only way you'll get good data for tuning is driving it.

[andysc3]

Okay. So went for a drive. Afr was still pegged lean. Then got a reduced engine power. P0068 map/maf-throttle position correlation

[andysc3]

the dtc was set at frame 33000. my efi live wouldnt let me load the pid list you attached. there were a few spots where timing dropped to -15. other than that it was pretty good. need to fix some of the transmission tables. it didnt like the converter much.

[andysc3]

I do have some slight leaks on the exhaust slip connections on the y-pipe. Ordered some better clamps that will be here on Saturday

[andysc3]

would adjusting C0805/6 cure the P0068? below 30% throttle the expected change seem kinda low?

[andysc3]

Also thinking my wideband sensor may be bad. With leaving the key on for 30+ seconds then trying to start it. Could have damaged the ceramic inside the sensor.

[andysc3]

New exhaust clamps came in. While their not fully sealed its alot better than before. Most of the leaks are after the ypipe though. The new o2 sensor for bank 2 also came in. Was orginally scheduled for Monday so it was a nice surprise. Ordered a new bosch wideband sensor last night. Will hopefully have it by Tuesday or Wednesday. Should I enable the stft until the new wb sensor is here?

[andysc3]

I renabled stft and after about 30 seconds trims went to -25% and the idle started hunting real bad. Guess I'm going to have to wait until the new wb sensor comes in before I can do any more fuel tuning. Got the idle down to 800rpm with a base of 18* would go +/-50 rpms

[andysc3]

New bosch wbo2 came in. Got it swapped in. Went to load a new tune with the vve tables lowered in the idle areas but the battery was dead. Seems I forgot to unplug the v2 from the obd2 port along with below freezing temps the last few days. I have it on a charger. Will try again tonight when I get home.

[andysc3]

And I have a working wideband now. log showed I need to take an additional 20% out of the idle area on the vve table. got timing alittle better, might need to take an additional 1 or 2* out of the base idle timing. it's also wanting to hunt for the idle but not as bad as before.

[andysc3]

Update. Tuning has been kinda slow. Only get 1-2 logs a day. Usually on my way to/from work. The ve table under 3k rpm is looking good. But was having issues with the transmission. Was looking at the t43 shift tables whike on my lunch brake when I finally noticed I was using the default kph. Converted it over to mph. We'll see how it does on the drive home

[andysc3]

is there a way to better control cold fueling? when its 15 or below outside its very hard to start. takes a few tries. then once the engine starts and rpms settle the afrs will start climb to around 15-16 until the coolant get to around 190 where it goes down to 14.7. ive been loging maf g/s and hz. At idle im seeing 11-12g/s. should I increase my min idle airflow to match what the maf is reporting?
also tried a wot run on my way home from work. was doing good until about 6000rpm when it fell flat on its face and the afrs climbed to about 13. Looking through my rev limiters and seems that I overlooked B5212 rev limiter based on oil temp. fixed that and will try again later.

[andysc3]

Drivability tuning is going well. Got the courage up to do a short wot run. 1st gear was a bit strange with it fluctuating. And it reved higher than what I was trying to command the shift at. Wanting it to shift at 6500 and it hit the rev limiter of 6600. After it did shift it pulled real strong in 2nd, but was going very lean on the top end. And for some reason my wideband randomly shows 655 which throws off a portion of my ben map. Ive attached the updated tunes and the log

[andysc3]

Appears that I'm getting some wheel spin in 1st. it's strange because its AWD but 22s on cold pavement probably isn't helping. I lowered the commanded shift rpm and mph and it helped some. would lowering the shift timing help speed up the shifts? it's still going lean on the top end. It's hard to find a stretch of road for testing that isn't covered by ice or other vehicles. I remember reading something back when I was tuning my procharged lq4 about logging some parameters that will simulate the torque and hp curves, but I can't remember what the parameters were. looks like the airflow gm/cyl looks very close to the TRQENG. What about the hp?

[joecar]

andysc3, I have been reading along, thanks for posting.

[joecar]

going lean at the top:
adjust maf table here to see if it changes.

[andysc3]

i have the maf disabled. It's been well below zero here the past week. won't be able to do any more WOT tuning until around late March or April. I am having an issue where it wants to die after its warmed up and I come to a stop. Rpms will drop and it will surge to about 1k rpm then drop and dies.

[andysc3]

Was looking at the min idle airflow and it looked like it was too high. Avg 10g at idle rpm. Lowered it to 8g and it's idling much better when warmed up.

[andysc3]

I've got the VVE dialed in pretty good. Finally started working on the MAF tuning. hasn't needed much adjustment. Question on where to have the WOT shift points set to. right now, I have it commanding the shift at 6400rpm and 68mph on the 2-3 shift but it's not shifting until 6600 and 70mph. and is this too high? cam is a btr 218/224 .55/.55 110lsa. g/cyl start around .98-1 and at 6000rpm its drops to .84 and at 6600 it's at .7. My truck is AWD and won't fit on any local dynos. Map stays right at 91-92 kpa. have afr dialed in starting at 12.5 and leaning to 12.8 at the shift and 24* timing. No knock besides a random burst knock I sometimes get while at a steady cruise on the highway.

[andysc3]

Ran I to an issue with the maf tuning. I've reversed what I did to disable the maf. But its sluggish and I'm getting a p0101 when I try to accelerate.

[andysc3]

Also, once the p0101 sets it goes back to the vve and drives like normal

[andysc3]

Seems like the maf was waaay off. Going very lean at light throttle and the difference between the maf and vve caused the p0101 and the maf to fail. Ended up having to add 20-50% more to the maf table but it's running much better now

[andysc3]

What would cause the transmission to shift early on the 1-2 wot shift? I have it set to 6000rpm and 40mph. But its shifting at 5700rpm and 37mph. Have the 2-3 shift set at 6100 and 68i belive but its shifting at 6300-6400rpm. It's commanding the shift where i want but it doesnt shift right away. Also no matter how I start a wot run, off idle or reving to 200-2500 the rpms go to 3000 slowly climb to 3300ish then takes off. I can post my tune and some logs in the morning.